* Customizing an F828 Set-up *

[NRich]

I find the F828 lends itself to be customized for individual needs, to respond to the instructions given it, in a variety of conditions in the field. Refinements in set up according to my needs allows more of my attention to go to artistic intent and visual choices, that directly effect the outcome of photos.

The F828 I find relatively light, compact, fluid and flexible in its handling. These features are carried through in my choice of tripod, and ball head. The tripod: Manfrotto Carbon fibre 443 (carbon One) -center post removed. The Kirk BH-3 ball head, I find to be a gem, with its large single knob for fast aim and frame,with two smaller pan and ball friction knobs.

The quick release plate remains mounted on the base of the F828, allowing for rapid transition from tripod to hand held shots. I prefer to shoot from the tripod, including shots where movement is involved, such as wildlife. (AF mode may be preset to continuous in wildlife circumstances, and monitor otherwise). I set the ball friction knob to where the ball head allows me to both frame quickly, and holds position with further lock down, (if need be.)

I am drawn to use the “real” setting exclusively, and ISO 64 as a default setting, with contrast set at minus one, to hold and retain subtle tonal gradation. I use the fine setting and a 1 Gig card, which allows for 262 approx.shots at 8 M pixels,(128 back-up in the camera). Circumstances permitting I prefer to shot in full manual mode. My ongoing approach is to explore a theme or subject(s) in series, while moving and varying camera positions, and focal lengths.

I have attached to the camera strap loop a 1” diam. key ring for my index finger, as a means of further securing the camera off the tripod,in place of a strap. - a personal choice. Finding the combination of variables, that make balance in set -up is IMO highly individual. The accompanying lens hood remains on, unless an add on lens such as the MCON-35 is used.

The live histogram is refered to often, edging highlights up to, and not beyond the right side. In critical or high contrast situations I bracket exposure, and/or make two shots in the same position off the tripod. For example, one exposing for the brighter sky or highlights, and the other for ground areas, or shadows, which may then later be selectively recombined, and merged in post processing.

I am of the view that there is no one best camera, and no one camera fits all. As orientations vary, there is no need to think of one set up that is necessarily better than another. It is IMO less about whats "best" and much more about what is suitable. I tend to think of a digital camera in a larger context, or a link in a chain in a creative image package.

The RV-DR1 remote release is used to trigger the shutter , minmizing the possibility of camera movement. This remote release remains connected, as if part of the camera, with the remote cord wound with electrical tap and shortened to approx. six inches. A level is often used outdoors for landscapes (horizontal/vertical) placed in the flash shoe, eliminating a need for cropping due to tilted horizons.

Other related and customizable facets of a camera may be thought of as extending to include editing software, and post processing (which I enjoy), where viewed on a graphics quality monitor. With the arrival of the F828, and my overall satisfaction with it, I have pre-ordered an Epson 4000 printer, for the marketing of archival fine art prints.

A Lowepro "side line shooter "camera bag works for me for all round purposes in the bush, and urban areas, while the waterproof Pelican 1400 hard case protects the camera around coastal environments.

It would be interesting to share experiences, and photos of varying camera setups for follow up discussion, that we may benefit from a variety of usage.

Norman

--
NRich
http://www.pbase.com/norman

 

[CTzen]

--
Slava

 

[Joel]

I find the F828 lends itself to be customized for individual
needs, to respond to the instructions given it, in a variety of
conditions in the field. Refinements in set up according to my
needs allows more of my attention to go to artistic intent and
visual choices, that directly effect the outcome of photos.

What a fascinating post.

It is this aim to bring the tool to the idea while also learning the unique strengths and weaknesses of the tool. A virtuous feedback loop.

I like to move around my subjects freely, refining my view and my understanding. I keep the 828 nearly always in my hand, secured by a short strap around my wrist only. The design and weight of the 828 lets me shoot at 1/15 sec hand-held yet return pin-sharp results - because you hold the lens and not the body.

I prefer to work with natural daylight and carry two, small Lastolite reflectors to help to balance the light and its colour.

I mainly shoot macro so I have a 250D close-up lens in my bag at all times. I love textures and the subtle colours that are under the surfaces - the 828 lets me capture those subtleties and bring them forward when I am at my PowerBook. There is so much latitude in the images I can do so much more than before.

So many shots I have captured only because the F-series articulate the way they do. No SLR could have taken some of the best the pictures I have made - shooting at arm's length at something directly above the camera, crouching low at ground level with the lens slowly pushed through the leaves to spy my insect.

The backgrounds are just as important as the subjects. They are often unexpectedly beautiful and with the low noise I get shooting at ISO64, it makes the best use of them. Like you, Saturation and contrast at minus, Real colour.

The 828's spatial resolution is going to be fantastic when I apply it to my favourite subject - details I cannot even see with my naked eye will be there in the images. I shoot at 8M but the smartzoom with 5M gives me that extra bit of magnification and still with great quality.

I don't bracket exposure so much as bracket focus, one millimetre to far forwards or back and the image is lost. Sometimes only manual focus will do. For me, depth of field is everything so aperture priority is the way to go. Now I understand to expose for the highlights, most of the problems are history. The histogram's story is subtle but useful when you see the correspondence with the results.

The 828 is a lovely camera to hold and walk around with, much more than just a box with tube protruding from it, you can do so much and be comfortable and in control.

I am learning new things at the same rate now than I did 30 years ago with my first SLR, It's such fun.

Joel.

 

[NRich]

http://www.pbase.com/image/26045948/medium

--
Slava

--
NRich

http://www.pbase.com/norman

 

[NRich]

I find the F828 lends itself to be customized for individual
needs, to respond to the instructions given it, in a variety of
conditions in the field. Refinements in set up according to my
needs allows more of my attention to go to artistic intent and
visual choices, that directly effect the outcome of photos.

What a fascinating post.

Hi Joel, I'm pleased you find set-up and orientation a common area of interest. I certainly feel your enthusiam in your post back. Would also enjoy seeing a link to your photos, and areas of visual interest.

It is this aim to bring the tool to the idea while also learning
the unique strengths and weaknesses of the tool. A virtuous
feedback loop.

I'm wondering if apart from a typo you were refering to a "virtual feedback loop"?

I like to move around my subjects freely, refining my view and my
understanding. I keep the 828 nearly always in my hand, secured by
a short strap around my wrist only. The design and weight of the
828 lets me shoot at 1/15 sec hand-held yet return pin-sharp
results - because you hold the lens and not the body.

Excellant to get 1/15 hand held and as you say , steadying the lens, in addition to the body. I also used the short strap, then tried the key ring which so far has stuck, as I recall Peter iNova made mention of it in his excellant Sony eBook.

I prefer to work with natural daylight and carry two, small
Lastolite reflectors to help to balance the light and its colour.

I also carry a 12" Lite Doisc that coils down to 5" approx. and fits nicely in the outside pocket of the Lowepro bag. One side white the other silver. I use it for close up and outdoor macro work redirecting light. I did a thread around this some while back.

I mainly shoot macro so I have a 250D close-up lens in my bag at
all times. I love textures and the subtle colours that are under
the surfaces - the 828 lets me capture those subtleties and bring
them forward when I am at my PowerBook. There is so much latitude
in the images I can do so much more than before.

I went with the Oly add ons TCON, MCON, the Wide angle WCON no longer needed to carry with the exteded wide range of the F828. When I'm traveling, this summer exploring the coast: see "Sailing North:Inspirations" Pbase gallery linked below I downloaded daily to a portable ibook.

So many shots I have captured only because the F-series articulate
the way they do. No SLR could have taken some of the best the
pictures I have made - shooting at arm's length at something
directly above the camera, crouching low at ground level with the
lens slowly pushed through the leaves to spy my insect.

I concur with you on that the swivel body is one of those innovative features, that I would be hard pressed to do without. Holding a DSLR a while back I found myself wanting to twist the body to no avail ...I also shot more often in the style of the old Rollies, with the camera lower, looking down on the LCD, and forward to the subject.

The backgrounds are just as important as the subjects. They are
often unexpectedly beautiful and with the low noise I get shooting
at ISO64, it makes the best use of them. Like you, Saturation and
contrast at minus, Real colour.

This options we now have with "real" and minus parameter settings, IMO make for beautiful feathered tonalities. It takes an enjoyment of fine tuning in post processing to see the gains made in this area with the F828.

The 828's spatial resolution is going to be fantastic when I apply
it to my favourite subject - details I cannot even see with my
naked eye will be there in the images. I shoot at 8M but the
smartzoom with 5M gives me that extra bit of magnification and
still with great quality.

I've yet to explore with the smart zoom-will in time I'm sure.

I would be interested to know how you might find the BH-3 ball head, in combination with a cable release for your macro work. Are you able to try either of these pieces of equipment?

I don't bracket exposure so much as bracket focus, one millimetre
to far forwards or back and the image is lost. Sometimes only
manual focus will do.

With your macro interest, this I find is an interesting differentiation, braketing for the DOF in contrast to exposure. Macro DOF Can be cob wed thin, and stunning when its spot on, according to ones intent.

For me, depth of field is everything so
aperture priority is the way to go. Now I understand to expose for
the highlights, most of the problems are history. The histogram's
story is subtle but useful when you see the correspondence with the
results.

Yes, I think both the histogram, coupled with new features such as focusing choices, in my case the new option of selecting "continious" for moving wildlife assist in high/ higher capture ratios.

The 828 is a lovely camera to hold and walk around with, much more
than just a box with tube protruding from it, you can do so much
and be comfortable and in control.

I also find many enjoyments of the F828, are in the field and the way it handles.

I am learning new things at the same rate now than I did 30 years
ago with my first SLR, It's such fun.

The fun factor, can indeed be high with an F828 I feel and share your enthusiasm overall.
Thanks for making the time to write.

Regards,
Norman
--
NRich

http://www.pbase.com/norman

Joel.

 

[Andy Williams]

good post. i'll add to it

tripod - i use the manfrotto, steel beast:



and the specs on the tripod (i get 5 emails a week asking about this so i'm posting the link here
bogen 3001B Pro Legs:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=222612&is=REG
and
bogen 329 RC4 low-profile pan & tilt head:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=253613&is=REG

i also use the tcon from oly (14b). great quality glass and gives some nice extra reach.

i've also modified my 828, to allow for easy removal of the neckstrap when tripod mounted. here's the details on that mod
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=7233795

i use your o-ring trick, as well thank you for that.

regarding settings. i like to shoot in manual. i find that with this camera, i can modify the settings in an instant, and 6000 shots later, i've not missed a shot due to setting things manually. i find that i will change the metering, and the focus, and shoot multiple frames of the same scene.

i love the dual storage. i too, keep an extra 256 cf card on-board, in case i run out and don't feel like swithing memory stick. i'm using multiple 256 memory stick pros, but i'll likely be investing in a couple of 512s shortly.

i get asked about bags all the time. i use a standard "high school' backpack, and i love it

-- andy
http://www.moonriverphotography.com -- galleries

enjoy the moonlight. but if you miss it, it'll be back in a few weeks.

 

[CTzen]

bogen 3001B Pro Legs:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=222612&is=REG
and
bogen 329 RC4 low-profile pan & tilt head:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=253613&is=REG

hi Andy,

same combination here what can I say - great minds think alike

--
Slava

 

[f8in2]

is an adapter ring required for that tcon?

bogen 3001B Pro Legs:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=222612&is=REG
and
bogen 329 RC4 low-profile pan & tilt head:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=253613&is=REG

hi Andy,

same combination here what can I say - great minds think alike

--
Slava

 

[Joel]

Norman,

Hi Joel, I'm pleased you find set-up and orientation a common area
of interest. I certainly feel your enthusiam in your post back.
Would also enjoy seeing a link to your photos, and areas of visual
interest.

I have posted two series of images on the forum:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=7389754

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=7455811

I am thinking about creating a gallery online soon and I am looking at the various options - Smugmug looks good.

It is this aim to bring the tool to the idea while also learning
the unique strengths and weaknesses of the tool. A virtuous
feedback loop.

I'm wondering if apart from a typo you were refering to a
"virtual feedback loop"?

I really meant virtuous. When you explore a new piece of equipment, the strengths are the things you concentrate on first, especially those that improve on what you had before. As you uncover the weaknesses, you have to get creative in working around or with them. This takes you deeper into the camera where you may find something nice that was not previously so obvious and so on. All the time you are learning, stretching yourself.

Excellant to get 1/15 hand held and as you say , steadying the
lens, in addition to the body. I also used the short strap, then
tried the key ring which so far has stuck, as I recall Peter iNova
made mention of it in his excellant Sony eBook.

The problem with using your own body as support is that your heartbeat deflects the camera enough to be a problem. I sometimes use a monopod but not in the usual way. I hold the end of the lens and the monopod at the same time instead of screwing it into the tripod mount. Usually this is not possible becuase it would scare off the subject.

I concur with you on that the swivel body is one of those
innovative features, that I would be hard pressed to do without.
Holding a DSLR a while back I found myself wanting to twist the
body to no avail ...I also shot more often in the style of the
old Rollies, with the camera lower, looking down on the LCD, and
forward to the subject.

I love shooting like this. It changes the viewpoint in an interesting way and is hard to do with a non-swivelling body. Those cameras that have a flip-out LCD can do it but then the camera controls are in a very awkward position. With an SLR the camera is usually against your eye and this necessarily limits your viewpoint. The 828 encourages experimentation with new viewpoints.

This options we now have with "real" and minus parameter settings,
IMO make for beautiful feathered tonalities. It takes an enjoyment
of fine tuning in post processing to see the gains made in this
area with the F828.

Absolutely. There is a particular feel to the colour from the 828 which I like very much. I'm not too worried about the colour being exactly like reality but I am very keen to have harmonious colours that look natural.

I've yet to explore with the smart zoom-will in time I'm sure.
I would be interested to know how you might find the BH-3 ball
head, in combination with a cable release for your macro work. Are
you able to try either of these pieces of equipment?

The ball heads look very interesting and I will go and see some soon. I have the RM-DR1 and it's so nice to have a remote release again. My Contax system had an electrical release which was very versatile but until the F828 none of my digital cameras had this possibility. I do the occasional formal portraits and this is where I use the tripod or for macro of small engineering components, electronic equipment etc. A tripod for field macro is virtually impossible - by the time you have setup the tripod the subject is long gone. Usually, I have to contort myself just to get a view of the subject so no tripod would get in there. Usually the insect is sitting on a flower that waving about anyway.

With your macro interest, this I find is an interesting
differentiation, braketing for the DOF in contrast to exposure.
Macro DOF Can be cob wed thin, and stunning when its spot on,
according to ones intent.

As with people, you need to get the eye of the insect sharp. I reckon my usable DOF is about 3mm at F8 and with this you have to get a balance of sharpness across the entire creature. I spent 2 weeks chasing a wasp that has a long, thin body so that it would present precisely side-on to the camera - I was going crazy! I finally did get it though.

The fun factor, can indeed be high with an F828 I feel and share
your enthusiasm overall.

Indeed it can!

Regards,

Joel.

 

[JTA]

Norman, Joel

Thanks for your very instructive and shared experiences exchange.

About hand held shooting: Any advice for shooting with digital zoom at 3 and 5 Mp (200 to 350 mm)? What about a system to lock the swivel, making the camera stadier due to "two hands" support, instead of just "one hand" on the lens?

Regards

JTA
http://web.jet.es/terol

 

[Andy Williams]

yes. 58mm to 62mm step up ring

 

[f8in2]

yes. 58mm to 62mm step up ring

are you worried about the added weight that some reviews compalin about and where could I purchase this lense/adapter ring combo?

 

[Andy Williams]

i find that the f828 is a joy to hold. not heavy at all. i think it weighs a few ounces more than my old 717 but honestly i don't notice the difference

good luck!

andy

 

[f8in2]

i find that the f828 is a joy to hold. not heavy at all. i think
it weighs a few ounces more than my old 717 but honestly i don't
notice the difference

good luck!

andy

I was refering to the added weight from accessory lenses and the stress that they create

 

[Andy Williams]

no problem

i find that if you cradle it in your left hand, there's no issue. i've shot plenty handheld with it. and on a tripod, too.

just use good care and caution

good luck

aw

 

[Shay Stephens]

I love the remote control, can't imagine not having it with me! I also like the no center post idea. It would save some weight and bulk. I have been using the center post in windy conditions to mount a 10 pound weight, but in non-windy conditions, I could just leave it in the car.

I am using a pan-tilt head right now, but I want to look into the geared type for fine control. Some of the compositions I do get pretty tight and the pan-tilt head can be fiddley sometimes.

I don't have a picture right now of my tripod setup, but may be able to add one soon.

Great post.

--
As long as the Lomo exists, it doesn't matter what camera you use.

 

[Tigadee]

Norm!

Great info about your own individual shooting style and preferences. Very interesting and educational too...

28mm to 200mm, 8mp, swivel lens, delicious speed/responsiveness, these all lend to the F828 the element of flexibility that you described. I am hooked on this camera!

NRich wrote:
I find the F828 lends itself to be customized for individual
needs, to respond to the instructions given it, in a variety of
conditions in the field. Refinements in set up according to my
needs allows more of my attention to go to artistic intent and
visual choices, that directly effect the outcome of photos.

--



Keep On Snappin'!
http://www.tigadee.fotopic.net
http://www.pbase.com/tigadee2
http://www.pbase.com/tigadee

 

[Joel]

About hand held shooting: Any advice for shooting with digital zoom
at 3 and 5 Mp (200 to 350 mm)? What about a system to lock the
swivel, making the camera stadier due to "two hands" support,
instead of just "one hand" on the lens?

This is very tricky at the focal lengths you mention but a tighter grip is often less effective than a light one.

I suggest supporting the weight of the camera by the lens and just providing some stability with the other hand. A monopod won't be much of an improvement as it does not prevent yaw but if it has some supplementary feet or bracing it can be effective.

Really a tripod is the only practical solution for long focal lenghts when there is not too much light around. The old rule was that you should shoot at same speed as the focal length e.g. 250mm = 1/250 sec.

Joel.

 

[NRich]

I have posted two series of images on the forum:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=7389754

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=7455811

Hi Joel, ....Very pleased to see these fine close-ups and macros. Your subjects are approached with care and sensitivity to light, tonalities, textures in ways I especially respond to. I hope you will contribute to visually orientated threads and exercises that I intiate from time to time. A recent thread linked below:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=6932354

I really meant virtuous. When you explore a new piece of equipment,
the strengths are the things you concentrate on first, especially
those that improve on what you had before. As you uncover the
weaknesses, you have to get creative in working around or with
them. This takes you deeper into the camera where you may find
something nice that was not previously so obvious and so on. All
the time you are learning, stretching yourself.

Very interesting. My approach runs somewhat parallel. I too value both a camera strengths and and the discovery process of real and perceived limitations than provide me creative opportunities for stretching. I imagine myself in creative partnership with the camera and related equipment choosen. I take steps to nurture new and surprising possibilites in this relationship.

The problem with using your own body as support is that your
heartbeat deflects the camera enough to be a problem. I sometimes
use a monopod but not in the usual way. I hold the end of the lens
and the monopod at the same time instead of screwing it into the
tripod mount. Usually this is not possible becuase it would scare
off the subject.

Very insightful, re the hearbeat, when the body is used as a floating platform.

I will use one hand as a clamp against a buidling, a tree, a post, when If the tripod id not at hand. I will share a techinques that I have developed that allow me to use a tripod fluidly in the field, for example with coast wild life offering more stability than hand held.

Routinely I carry the carbon fibre tripod,camera attached, in the crook of my arm, with the middle section closed, shortening the length, to the size weight, and manner a rifle might be carried. I have developed a "quick draw" technique whereby the tripod is opened forward in one motion. The camera swivel body/LCD height is then approx.13" below my eye, and the camera is at height where the hands are natrally with elbows bent at 45 degrees.

This is a practiced motion for rapid set-up, that alows me to assess scene, changes, and 2D framing in the LCD. If the set up, say a pheasant, eagle or deer, requires even more set up speed, one step is removed, and the tripod legs are not spread , rather used as a flexible impromtu mono pod.

I love shooting like this. It changes the viewpoint in an
interesting way and is hard to do with a non-swivelling body. Those
cameras that have a flip-out LCD can do it but then the camera
controls are in a very awkward position. With an SLR the camera is
usually against your eye and this necessarily limits your
viewpoint. The 828 encourages experimentation with new viewpoints.

Yes, The LCD, when combined with a swivel body, has asisted in opening vast new realms of photgraphic enjoyment for me. I'm aware that my aversion to bring a camera up to my face, tunneling vision through one eye and a viewfinder, is highly personal. However It is such a large factor for me in my enjoyment of digital imaging, that I have nearly a dozen lens, (mostly fixed focal lenght), and SLR body, sitting on a shelf collectly dust for years now, while the LCD and swiveled bodied F828 inspires daily use.

Absolutely. There is a particular feel to the colour from the 828
which I like very much. I'm not too worried about the colour being
exactly like reality but I am very keen to have harmonious colours
that look natural.

I have an expression, that I expect of the camera to get me close to my intent, the remainder I expect of myself to follow through with creative visual decisions the remainder of the way. Having the extended latitude of F828 tunable choices now available to me from the "real" mode, and minus parameters in artistic terms is IMO of real and valued significance.

I've yet to explore with the smart zoom-will in time I'm sure.
I would be interested to know how you might find the BH-3 ball
head, in combination with a cable release for your macro work. Are
you able to try either of these pieces of equipment?

The ball heads look very interesting and I will go and see some
soon.

The Kirk BH-3 Ball head, may now be my most valued, and prized piece of photographic equipment, out side the camera itself. It is IMO in a class by itself, in providing opportunites for image capture that would not other wise be possible. A superb mating with a carbon Fibre tripod, with ball tension ajustment and micro precision smooth operating. Its not inexpensive however, and to my understanding is sold only direct from the Mfg. handcrafted in the U.S. on order: $239, and IMO well worth....

http://www.kirkphoto.com/ballheadbh3

Regards,
Norman
--
NRich

http://www.pbase.com/norman

 

[NRich]

Hi Shay,

I recall we shared an early enthusism of the remote control with the F717. Over time It has also become indespensible for me. One day along a rocky beach, the RV-DR1 remote went missing. Pure panic, and for the next half hour retraced my steps to find that treasured needle of a remote in a hay stack of stones.

I've made a transition to carbon fibre tripod. Had lingering reservations due to cost. Pleased I did, wish I had done so sooner. Have experimented with, and without center post. My thinking is that removing it encourages me not to over elevate a center column, keeping the camera lower and stable, closer to the apex of the triangle. I can imagine a geared control system you mentioned would be especially useful in portraiture...( Fine work you doing, much feeling, and very accomplished ).

A feature that I am coming to highly value in my current orientation with the Kirk BH-3 is the friction knob. I set this knob a little on the tight side, which allows me to both move the camera in any direction with one hand, and it then remains stable with enough lock, that the large knob need not to locked further, especially where time is of the essense.

I'm also pleased to see you sharing the journey, working with an F828. Your ongoing contributions help maximize the potential from the gear available to us. I am benefiting from your current PF action. Your reportage of the F717 in review form remains a classic. I will follow with interest your new F828 site link review under construction . I'm currently setting sharpening at O. Are you at this time, through tests of your own, gravitating to 0 or -1in parameter sharpening?

Regards,
Norman
--
NRich

http://www.pbase.com/norman

I love the remote control, can't imagine not having it with me! I
also like the no center post idea. It would save some weight and
bulk. I have been using the center post in windy conditions to
mount a 10 pound weight, but in non-windy conditions, I could just
leave it in the car.

I am using a pan-tilt head right now, but I want to look into the
geared type for fine control. Some of the compositions I do get
pretty tight and the pan-tilt head can be fiddley sometimes.

I don't have a picture right now of my tripod setup, but may be
able to add one soon.

Great post.

--
As long as the Lomo exists, it doesn't matter what camera you use.