Can you please help me choose a flash for macro use?

Yannis1976

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Hi all,

so I finally got the Laowa 65mm macro (used) and now I am looking for a flash because shooting at f8-f11 and at 1/100 - 1/250 won't make it easily without one :-) I am already getting some very high ISO in less than ideal light conditions with my XT5...

I am still struggling with the lens, but at least I got some results...

e83e25317b6e4573a9b3b86b09a6b7ba.jpg



9e1be0edc4b04b078429d7ac9a93569e.jpg



I checked the used market sites and the one I find in a good price is the Godox TT350F. I understand is with AA batteries (vs the V350F) but I could still get some rechargeable ones, no? I also like the new retro ones (i30 and m30) but I assume these are not suitable for macro especially if I combine them with the XF 80mm.

Then there are some dedicated Fuji ones but are much more expensive. Also, what about the Godox ML150 ring flash? Seems to cost less than 100€, but don't see it much used for macro, people seem to prefer a normal flash with a diffuser.

Any advise, suggestion, alternative?

--
Yannis
 
Hi Yannis,

If I had to recommend something, fist of all you could start with a regular flashgun and homemade diffuser (there's a lot of such stuff on YT, BTW I recommend this one: https://www.youtube.com/@MicaelWidell as good start for macro in general).
I use Quadralite/Godox flash system, have Quadralite Stroboss 60 and 36 + Navigator X-plus transmitter - very useful when I want to use two flashes not mounted on the camera - I did it outdoor few times.

For macro, I bought Godox MF-12 dual ring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Godox-MF12-Macro-Flash-2-Light/dp/B09MJGFX9Y
It very nice solution as You may set two independent MF-12 flashes at any angle or take them away from the ring and use small tripod or flexible arm etc. You can also buy another MF-12 flash(es) separately if you need more. The kit contains also colour filters, diffusers, bag - very convenient for taking it outdoor. I had wireless transmitter before so i wasn't a problem to me, but it's always additional cost. I can say this kit is good enough to take passport photo with no additional diffusers (I used it to photograph faces with glasses) so it's versatile solution.
Regarding Flashrings, some photographers don't like reflected rings in the eyes of the subjects (bigger softbox or diffuser look more natural).

Sometimes I uses also continuous light (as a support or main light only):
https://www.amazon.com/ULANZI-Temperature-Continuous-Spotlight-2500K-6500K/dp/B0CWV7B4LP
It very convenient as it works long enough on built-in battery, so can be used outdoor as well (at home/studio you can use standard laptop 19V DC power supply).

As I wrote, macro flash is nice but not required, photos below were taken with Stroboss 60 + Rogue diffuser
(lamp with diffuser mounted on camera hot shoe)[:

74a2516035ac4e1cb40baaf8ee01be0f.jpg

1f3ab3a261e142de85ae2f74fc84b800.jpg

47245db488814c2fb330f6cb507dbcf6.jpg

49cea137433645dcb9c0bb4d5a4ed78e.jpg

68f6590343d04b4f8ffd4cb618aa6733.jpg

And one remark regarding your photos: I noticed you have used 1/250s. In my opinion you could use 1/125s and ISO6400 instead 1/250 and ISO12800 - if there's no windblows, your subject is still and your hand is stable enough 1/80 or 1/100s should be OK at 65mm (with IBIS I could try even longer SS to get acceptable exposure at the lowest sensitivity).

Cheers,

Artur
 
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This was taken by firing a powerful flash (an old Metx CT45) into a very big white umbrella resting on my shoulder.

It needs a flash that can point backwards and upwards.



d46cf048c1de42d7a335f34c340c59cc.jpg

Nowadays for moderate close ups I just use a higher ISO unless it is really dark.

--
Andrew Skinner
 
You may want to look at the V350 as it has a quicker recharge time than the TT350, especially when continuous shooting/focus bracketing. More expensive, but includes a rechargeable battery. The V860 would be good, but more expensive and bigger/heavier.

I mostly shoot static subjects, e.g. fauna, so I am normally on a tripod and use a $30 Ulanzi VL200 LED light as required which contains a rechargeable battery.
 
Can you please also suggest me a cheap diffuser that you have used successfully? There are so many in Amazon...



 
Last edited:
Hi all,

so I finally got the Laowa 65mm macro (used) and now I am looking for a flash because shooting at f8-f11 and at 1/100 - 1/250 won't make it easily without one :-) I am already getting some very high ISO in less than ideal light conditions with my XT5...

I am still struggling with the lens, but at least I got some results...

e83e25317b6e4573a9b3b86b09a6b7ba.jpg

9e1be0edc4b04b078429d7ac9a93569e.jpg

I checked the used market sites and the one I find in a good price is the Godox TT350F. I understand is with AA batteries (vs the V350F) but I could still get some rechargeable ones, no? I also like the new retro ones (i30 and m30) but I assume these are not suitable for macro especially if I combine them with the XF 80mm.

Then there are some dedicated Fuji ones but are much more expensive. Also, what about the Godox ML150 ring flash? Seems to cost less than 100€, but don't see it much used for macro, people seem to prefer a normal flash with a diffuser.

Any advise, suggestion, alternative?
There are lots and lots of cheap work arounds.



d61ff8b0e0764c468f54096d6fe5c8dc.jpg



--
Hoka Hey
 
Since you're new to macro, let me make some suggestions (By the way, that Laowa 65mm 2X macro is a gem.)

You might consider initially using available light and theaccessory sthat o many love to hate: a tripod. Focusing will be more precise, no need for high ISO and fast shutter speeds because you are not handholding. An alternative is a monopood; you can easily shoot at 1/15 sec.

One of the nicest sources of light is from a large window on a cloudy day (or one that faces north). Bring some flowers inside; use a tripod; no need to deal with wind; and food is nearby.

Of course tripods are inappropriate for chasing insects. And on a breezy day, a tripod can't stop a swaying flower (but with patience there is usually a lull if you wait around long enough).

Flash: a common tool for the closeup/macro photographer. ANY shoe-mount-type flash -with a good diffuser - will work. Since you mentioned the Godox TT350, I can confirm that will be fine since that's what I use. Panasonic Eneloop rechargable natteries are well regarded; again, my choice.

The trick is to have a light source very large in comparison to the subject, though not just large, but it has to be placed so it surrounds the subject as much as possible. If the light is "large" but too far from the subject, it effectively appears "small" to the subject. Raw light from a typical flash head is way to contrasty and harsh.

For getting started, you can't beat the teardrop-shaped diffusers ($6) which work well if used properly. The diffuser should be placed as far from the flash as possible (so the light fills the area of the diffuser), and it should be tilted as far forward as possible to "embrace" the subject. (see photo below).

From the links you provided, I believe you are in Germany (couldn't open them), so I don't know the offerings on Amazon there. On Amazon U.S, the tear-drop-shaped diffusers all look pretty much the same, but some have very poor elastic in the ring that holds onto the lens barrel. Take a look at the Angler PFSD-100 on the U.S. B&H Photo website, and get one that has a similar robust elestic ring.

If you decdide you really like close-up/macro, there is no limit to flash types and flash diffusers you can get, depending on yor budget and what you're willing to carry.

A next step up from the tear-drop-shaped diffuser would be a small collapsible light box (photo below). To use for best results, it should be placed close to the subject (not just sitting in the hot shoe). You can do this by holding the flash in your left hand, the camera in the right hand; short duration of flash freezes any unstediness in the camera. Or mounting it on a bracket, as shown below. In both cases yo will need the relatively-inexpensive Godox wireless trigger.

Yes, there are twin flash units, ring flashes, and the currently-popular large hood-shaped diffusers (but the latter are somewhat physically specific to specific camera/lens/flash combinations). I think you should start basic; there's a lot to know about macro flash (largest chapters in both volumes of my macro books are on lighting!).

My diffuser-weapon of choice is a home-made (styrofoam) box held on the flash with rubber bands. The flash is held in an adjustable bracket that can position the diffuser close-to the subject, and at any angle I think appropriate (often side or top light is more intertesting than straight-on illumination). Sometimes I just hold the (wireless) flash+diffuser in my left hand positioned where I want it, the camera in my right hand.

DEFINITELY practice/experiment with whatever flash rig you decide on. We generally use manual flash, adjusting the power of the flash for the aperture and magnification in use.

All photos from Volume I of my macro books.

Lester Lefkowitz, author of The Manual of Close-Up and Macro Photography, Volumes I and II

www.MacroPhotographer.net

This is how many macro photographers got started. Shown is the correct positioning of a tear-drop-shaped diffuser.  The flash head is as far from the diffuser as possible so as to fill the diffuser all over.  The diffuser tilted toward the small subject.  Set the flash head for the widest position and use the pladstic Fresnel wide-angle attachment if it has one.
This is how many macro photographers got started. Shown is the correct positioning of a tear-drop-shaped diffuser. The flash head is as far from the diffuser as possible so as to fill the diffuser all over. The diffuser tilted toward the small subject. Set the flash head for the widest position and use the pladstic Fresnel wide-angle attachment if it has one.

These commercial collapsible diffuser will also work, but if the flash is placed in the camera hot shoe, the light is a little boring being straight in.  I like to pladce it on a bracket (in comfiguration shown beloiw) or even handhold it in my left hand as I place it close to the subject and a bit off to the side.
These commercial collapsible diffuser will also work, but if the flash is placed in the camera hot shoe, the light is a little boring being straight in. I like to pladce it on a bracket (in comfiguration shown beloiw) or even handhold it in my left hand as I place it close to the subject and a bit off to the side.



[ATTACH alt="My weapon of choice for a flash rig. Diffuser is homemade from Styrofoam and hot glue; diffusing matrerial is kitchen paper towel held on with rubber bands. The "magic arm" allows placement of the flash wherever I desire. Godox wireless flash trigger is in hot shoe. This is a Fuji X-T4 with their 80mm macro lens, but I have also used this with the Laowa 65mm."]3688727[/ATTACH]
My weapon of choice for a flash rig. Diffuser is homemade from Styrofoam and hot glue; diffusing matrerial is kitchen paper towel held on with rubber bands. The "magic arm" allows placement of the flash wherever I desire. Godox wireless flash trigger is in hot shoe. This is a Fuji X-T4 with their 80mm macro lens, but I have also used this with the Laowa 65mm.



Photo made with flash rig shown above.
Photo made with flash rig shown above.
 

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Since you're new to macro, let me make some suggestions (By the way, that Laowa 65mm 2X macro is a gem.)
not completely new, but never stayed long enough to learn and standardize my methods. I started with the Olympus 60mm macro and have tested many combinations of cameras/lenses to see what I like.



Thank you for the great advice below! I think you understood my point that I want to go as cheap as possible in the accessories in order to finally settle to a system and some methods.
You might consider initially using available light and theaccessory sthat o many love to hate: a tripod. Focusing will be more precise, no need for high ISO and fast shutter speeds because you are not handholding. An alternative is a monopood; you can easily shoot at 1/15 sec.

One of the nicest sources of light is from a large window on a cloudy day (or one that faces north). Bring some flowers inside; use a tripod; no need to deal with wind; and food is nearby.

Of course tripods are inappropriate for chasing insects. And on a breezy day, a tripod can't stop a swaying flower (but with patience there is usually a lull if you wait around long enough).

Flash: a common tool for the closeup/macro photographer. ANY shoe-mount-type flash -with a good diffuser - will work. Since you mentioned the Godox TT350, I can confirm that will be fine since that's what I use. Panasonic Eneloop rechargable natteries are well regarded; again, my choice.
The trick is to have a light source very large in comparison to the subject, though not just large, but it has to be placed so it surrounds the subject as much as possible. If the light is "large" but too far from the subject, it effectively appears "small" to the subject. Raw light from a typical flash head is way to contrasty and harsh.

For getting started, you can't beat the teardrop-shaped diffusers ($6) which work well if used properly. The diffuser should be placed as far from the flash as possible (so the light fills the area of the diffuser), and it should be tilted as far forward as possible to "embrace" the subject. (see photo below).

From the links you provided, I believe you are in Germany (couldn't open them), so I don't know the offerings on Amazon there. On Amazon U.S, the tear-drop-shaped diffusers all look pretty much the same, but some have very poor elastic in the ring that holds onto the lens barrel. Take a look at the Angler PFSD-100 on the U.S. B&H Photo website, and get one that has a similar robust elestic ring.

If you decdide you really like close-up/macro, there is no limit to flash types and flash diffusers you can get, depending on yor budget and what you're willing to carry.

A next step up from the tear-drop-shaped diffuser would be a small collapsible light box (photo below). To use for best results, it should be placed close to the subject (not just sitting in the hot shoe). You can do this by holding the flash in your left hand, the camera in the right hand; short duration of flash freezes any unstediness in the camera. Or mounting it on a bracket, as shown below. In both cases yo will need the relatively-inexpensive Godox wireless trigger.

Yes, there are twin flash units, ring flashes, and the currently-popular large hood-shaped diffusers (but the latter are somewhat physically specific to specific camera/lens/flash combinations). I think you should start basic; there's a lot to know about macro flash (largest chapters in both volumes of my macro books are on lighting!).

My diffuser-weapon of choice is a home-made (styrofoam) box held on the flash with rubber bands. The flash is held in an adjustable bracket that can position the diffuser close-to the subject, and at any angle I think appropriate (often side or top light is more intertesting than straight-on illumination). Sometimes I just hold the (wireless) flash+diffuser in my left hand positioned where I want it, the camera in my right hand.

DEFINITELY practice/experiment with whatever flash rig you decide on. We generally use manual flash, adjusting the power of the flash for the aperture and magnification in use.

All photos from Volume I of my macro books.

Lester Lefkowitz, author of The Manual of Close-Up and Macro Photography, Volumes I and II

www.MacroPhotographer.net

This is how many macro photographers got started. Shown is the correct positioning of a tear-drop-shaped diffuser. The flash head is as far from the diffuser as possible so as to fill the diffuser all over. The diffuser tilted toward the small subject. Set the flash head for the widest position and use the pladstic Fresnel wide-angle attachment if it has one.
This is how many macro photographers got started. Shown is the correct positioning of a tear-drop-shaped diffuser. The flash head is as far from the diffuser as possible so as to fill the diffuser all over. The diffuser tilted toward the small subject. Set the flash head for the widest position and use the pladstic Fresnel wide-angle attachment if it has one.

These commercial collapsible diffuser will also work, but if the flash is placed in the camera hot shoe, the light is a little boring being straight in. I like to pladce it on a bracket (in comfiguration shown beloiw) or even handhold it in my left hand as I place it close to the subject and a bit off to the side.
These commercial collapsible diffuser will also work, but if the flash is placed in the camera hot shoe, the light is a little boring being straight in. I like to pladce it on a bracket (in comfiguration shown beloiw) or even handhold it in my left hand as I place it close to the subject and a bit off to the side.

[ATTACH alt="My weapon of choice for a flash rig. Diffuser is homemade from Styrofoam and hot glue; diffusing matrerial is kitchen paper towel held on with rubber bands. The "magic arm" allows placement of the flash wherever I desire. Godox wireless flash trigger is in hot shoe. This is a Fuji X-T4 with their 80mm macro lens, but I have also used this with the Laowa 65mm."]3688727[/ATTACH]
My weapon of choice for a flash rig. Diffuser is homemade from Styrofoam and hot glue; diffusing matrerial is kitchen paper towel held on with rubber bands. The "magic arm" allows placement of the flash wherever I desire. Godox wireless flash trigger is in hot shoe. This is a Fuji X-T4 with their 80mm macro lens, but I have also used this with the Laowa 65mm.

Photo made with flash rig shown above.
Photo made with flash rig shown above.


--
Yannis
 
IMO it can be a problem if the light comes from a flash attached to the camera - even if you get a nice diffuser

OC-E 3 cord should work with Fujifilm cameras hot shoe + cheaper Fuji flashes. You will not need enormous power if you can place the flash closer (with some diffuser or something reflecting light) - and you can also do some more creative lighting adjustments from various directions.

I have the cord and it has worked with X-H1 and small flash unit EF X20- very usable but too expensive as new....

Dedicated macro flashes are nice , but not much other use...
 
Then there are some dedicated Fuji ones but are much more expensive. Also, what about the Godox ML150 ring flash? Seems to cost less than 100€, but don't see it much used for macro, people seem to prefer a normal flash with a diffuser.
Personally, if I was looking at shooting 1:1 macros I would be looking at a ring flash. It depends on the focal length you have. I have a 200mm macro lens so I get 1:1 reproduction a good distance from the subject. Far enough that a conventional flash can work. On full frame, a 60mm 1:1 macro lens puts the front of the lens a couple of inches from the subject. I don't have experience shooting an effective 90mm macro. But I would still think a ring flash may be preferable.

But a ring flash is a rather specialty flash. If you want a multipurpose flash you may want to go the standard route.

--
Mike Dawson
 
Last edited:
For getting started, you can't beat the teardrop-shaped diffusers ($6) which work well if used properly. The diffuser should be placed as far from the flash as possible (so the light fills the area of the diffuser), and it should be tilted as far forward as possible to "embrace" the subject. (see photo below).

From the links you provided, I believe you are in Germany (couldn't open them), so I don't know the offerings on Amazon there. On Amazon U.S, the tear-drop-shaped diffusers all look pretty much the same, but some have very poor elastic in the ring that holds onto the lens barrel. Take a look at the Angler PFSD-100 on the U.S. B&H Photo website, and get one that has a similar robust elestic ring.

If you decdide you really like close-up/macro, there is no limit to flash types and flash diffusers you can get, depending on yor budget and what you're willing to carry.

A next step up from the tear-drop-shaped diffuser would be a small collapsible light box (photo below). To use for best results, it should be placed close to the subject (not just sitting in the hot shoe). You can do this by holding the flash in your left hand, the camera in the right hand; short duration of flash freezes any unstediness in the camera. Or mounting it on a bracket, as shown below. In both cases yo will need the relatively-inexpensive Godox wireless trigger.



All photos from Volume I of my macro books.

Lester Lefkowitz, author of The Manual of Close-Up and Macro Photography, Volumes I and II

www.MacroPhotographer.net

This is how many macro photographers got started. Shown is the correct positioning of a tear-drop-shaped diffuser. The flash head is as far from the diffuser as possible so as to fill the diffuser all over. The diffuser tilted toward the small subject. Set the flash head for the widest position and use the pladstic Fresnel wide-angle attachment if it has one.
This is how many macro photographers got started. Shown is the correct positioning of a tear-drop-shaped diffuser. The flash head is as far from the diffuser as possible so as to fill the diffuser all over. The diffuser tilted toward the small subject. Set the flash head for the widest position and use the pladstic Fresnel wide-angle attachment if it has one.
Dear Lester,

thank you again for the detailed description. Can you please suggest a tear-drop diffuser from Amazon? I found some in the Amazon.de but I don't see them keeping their position on the lens, they seem to miss that grey rubber you have in your photos.

thanks

--
Yannis
 

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