Building Studio

[Tom Meeks]

Not only do we WANT the shadows; but, we NEED the shadows to give life to the end results. The shadows will still be there even when we judiciously add more light, since we simply go with faster shutter speeds and the CCD will have less time time to gather light.

But, what is intriguing, is that CCD's might behave VERY differently when they capture quickly than when they are forced to capture less quickly.

We know that individual CCD cells gather light independently which results in at least some difference from pixel to pixel which could result in 'noise'. Are those differences minimized when we add more light and expose the CCD for a shorter period or are they magnified? We can only experiment to try to find out since manufacturers of cameras. like Olympus, INSIST that their cameras (E-10) have VERY little noise when anyone with a grain of sense and just one good eye knows that's a bald face lie. (LOL)

I find I can easily live with the image I get in the lighted
portion of the frame; but as the picture transitions to shadow -
take a headshot of someone looking out the window, notice the
gradual transition to shadow along the face and how weird the skin
becomes - that's where the CCD noise bothers me. Take the same
shot, but use fill flash to get more light on that cheek and it
looks much better.

Software can probably be made to greatly help this problem - once
it has been clearly defined. For the lighting forum, if this is
something more people agree is a problem, we might consider ways to
light a scene to avoid these transitional shadow areas.

-Walt

Tom,

can u give us a little more detail.
Do u avoid that by using more light and faster shutter speed ?

Thanks
gmd

the question is if you want the shadows as part of the image
or not.. If not .. well use more light..
If yes ... thats a different story ...
gmd

 

[Jim DeLuco]

Ok guys,

what I have learned from the responses:

I will make two halfs, one white, one light grey
also the ceiling, white on the white side and grey
on the grey side, all with round corners also on the floor.

I will put curtain tracks along the whole room
and also accross for drops on either side of the
modelling areas (grey, white)

I will use double tracks, will have black curtains
along the window wall from wall to wall
and will have black and grey curtain on the white side
for both back and side and black and white curtains
for the grey side.

The curtains are the cheapest solution and then ill
combine this with separate reflectors.
I will use two main power outlets with cable channels
in the floor coverd with a lid and leave cable channels
accessible to run any cable accross the room (length and width).

How does that sound ?

regards
gmd

I think you should paint the whole room Kelly Green and turn it into a day care center.

 

[Bern Caughey]

Mount a fire extinguisher where it can be clearly seen by anyone in the studio.

 

[Bern Caughey]

One of Roscoe's is called "Soft Silver Reflector #273". Spray mount
this onto one side of each of the bead boards. Them use gaffer or
duct tape along the edges.

I forgot to mention that these boards should be reinforced with foamcore cut in a similar manner. Then use spray mount #77 to put the Roscoe "Super Soft Silver Reflector" onto the foamcore side of the reflector. The Roscoe will stick better & will be flatter.

I prefer Roscoe' s SS (Super Soft) Silver Reflector to the "Soft Silver" that I mentioned in the prevous post.

 

[PatiO]

One of Roscoe's is called "Soft Silver Reflector #273".

Hello, CLTHRS:

I tried to find a Roscoe's outlet for the "Soft Silver Reflector" on the web. Couldn't. Do you know of one? Thanks. PatiO.

 

[Bern Caughey]

Off the top of my head I know Mole Richardson's Studio Depot will be able to help you. I will try to find other options when I get a chance.

http://www.studiodepot.com/store/index.cgi

 

[Vwman]

Due to it's height I would go with a medium dark grey to black
ceiling. The room is fairly good sized so the walls could be white
to medium gray. If you want to shoot available light you'll likely
want white walls. You could paint the ceiling near the "Northlight"
window white. It could help the light from feeling too heavy.

Put in as much electricity as you can afford. You may grow into
using constant light sources or larger strobes & will need a good
amount of juice. You could draw all the power from one spot in the
studio & just run extension cables to the lights.

I would also have a large loading door or large windows facing the
setting sun. It would be great if the ceiling was white in this
area. Perhaps you should paint the center 20'x20' dark & the outer
10' border white.

It would be very nice to have soft frost or sheer material on
runners over the windows & doors. Another runner with black cloth
panels would be very flexible.

You can do alot without spending alot. Although they are a bit
confusing to use at first, you should get a few C stands & small to
medium flags. You may be able to buy the stands used. You'll need
some sand, or better yet shot, bags.

Additionally you should get several black & white sided 4'x8'
foamcore boards. Tape two of them together along the longside to
make "V"s. These are extremely handy. Don't store them where direct
sunlight is hitting them or they will develop a curl.

If you can get a piece of white foam or bead board. Cut these down
to 4'x4'. Cut one of these pieces into two 2'x4' sections. Cut one
of these down to two 2'x2' pieces. Once again cut this in half so
you have two 1'x2' pieces. Cut one of these down to two 1'x1'
pieces. Roscoe & Lee make 4' long rolls of pebbled silver material.
One of Roscoe's is called "Soft Silver Reflector #273". Spray mount
this onto one side of each of the bead boards. Them use gaffer or
duct tape along the edges.

You now have a 4'x4', a 2'x4', a 2'x2', a 1'x2' & two 1'x1'
reflectors. This is the standard way to make reflectors in the
movie industry. Although they do not fold up they are the best
reflectors available. The bead board is softer & more even than
foamcore & the stiff surface is superior to the fold up style.

It would be great to have a few "Bead Board Holders" as well. The
knickname for these is Platapus. These fit into the C stangs grip
head and allow you to position the reflectors almost anywhere.

These items as well as gaffer & paper tape should be available at
the movie industry supply houses in Australia. In the long run
you'll save money over other options.

--
Vwman----C-700 UZ
http://www.pbase.com/vwman