Better than a gimbal ?

Hi Tony,

I agree with your comments above, although I may come to different conclusions. By adding that RRS two point suspension, I agree that you are simply moving the main single pivot point from the lens to the ball stem. (Or maybe removing one of many pivot points, depending on how you want to look at it). Now, which is more stable, the lens foot or the ball stem? Although purely speculative, I suspect that a good ball stem is more stable than the lens foot and collar. The modern collars and lens feet tend to be very wimpy, presumably to reduce weight (and cost).

While there is no perfect solution short of two tripods, which is not practical except shooting maybe landscapes, the problem I see with long lenses is not so much that there is some vibration, but that there is so much vibration.

Here I did a test of the 300 F/4 AFS stock foot verses the Kirk two point suspension collar.

http://www.pbase.com/nrothschild/kirk_300_f4_collar

The "Self Timer" tests are the acid test of stability because that test relies solely on the rigidity of the support system. I view that as the reference image.

Now look at my two images using LLT with each foot. Note that at higher shutter speeds (1/15s and 1/50s) I was able to get reasonably sharp images with LLT with either foot. But, at 1/5s I was unable to get a sharp image using LLT with the stock foot, but I was able to get a good image with the Kirk foot.

From that I conclude that, for any given support configuration, LLT results in less consistency as shutter speed declines. If you then make the support more rigid, you can go to progressively slower shutter speeds with reasonable consistency.

Applying that test and general conclusion to the matter at hand, the RRS two point suspension setup, I would think that the RRS setup would provide more consistent results with LLT and at lower shutter speeds.

The question is: is the improvement worth $500?

The 300 F/4 is not a particularly difficult lens to shoot, even with the stock foot, because it is rather puny compared to the bigger guns. My extensive experience with a 500 F/4P and my brief usage of a 400 2.8 told me that that lens is HIGHLY unstable and that is why I would think that the RRS device should at least help, although to what degree would need to be tested.

This is speculation, of course, and I don't believe anyone could come to any more firm conclusions without actually testing that device. The good news is that you have a return privilege and therefore the opportunity to test the actual utility of that device.

Interestingly, I have seen some test images shot with a 200-400VR on a 1325 and 1548. Those tests actually showed the 1325 to be more stable in that particular configuration. I think the guy knew what he was doing and he certainly recognized that his results were counter-intuitive. He believed that the resonant frequency of the 1325 may have just been different enough to make his configuration happier than on a 1548. That just goes to show that it is difficult to make generalizations and I am not saying the same would be true with a 400 2.8, which is a very different lens class.

Although I had to pay about $27 for the report that contained those test images, I thought it was money well spent considering the huge sums we throw into our support systems and the scarcity of good test data. It gave me some good ideas for my own testing.

http://www.diglloyd.com/diglloyd/infos/TheSharpestImage/TheSharpestImage-info.html

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Regards,
Neil
 
Tony, You have a BH-40? What do you like about that head that prompted you to swap it for the M10?

--
Regards,
Neil
 
Tony, You have a BH-40? What do you like about that head that
prompted you to swap it for the M10?
It's lower profile. It's actually quite strong although not quite as strong as the BH-55. I also wanted to be able to switch clamps on it when I wanted to and the M-10 I had I couldn't get the clamp off and replace it. I go between four different clamps on the RRS heads depending on what I need.

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Tony

http://www.pbase.com/a5m/ http://AnthonyMedici.naturescapes.net/
 
You still have a single point of contact between the lens and the
mount. And you have plenty of length for creating torque around
that point so you will get vibration.
The extra support for the camera body, either with the clamp or that Y support should reduce some vibration. Do you really think that it won't ? I would guess that resting the camera body on another point of support would be superior to pressing the camera up against your face.
tripod. But yes, you can usually see movement in the lens as you
line it up. That's why VR/IS becomes important and the shutter
speed drops.
Ok. Then, perhaps I am obsessing about the stability. We're out in the cold with VR with Nikon's supertele lineup.
(I have both) But there is also movement in the lens collar around
the lens if it isn't tighten down all the way and a small amount of
flex in the foot. (An RRS replacement foot)
Aha ! I don't always lock the tripod collar down very tightly. Thanks for the suggestion. I do have the RRS replacement feet for all of my longer lenses.
 
Neil, thanks for those tests on the Kirk lens collars. Wow. I'd like to see these for Nikons longer, heavier lenses. I'm also wondering why the second part of the collar doesn't wrap around the lens barrel. Perhaps the stability improvements are too small for that added expense on these lenses.
 
BTW, as I said, a ball head is the most stable and no head is even
more stable.
I find that mounting a lens directly to the ball head is scarier than mounting to a Sidekick. I have seen the lens drift downward too often and know that someday, during adjustment, the ballhead will rorate downward and cause the lens to hit the tripod with a crash.
 
BTW, as I said, a ball head is the most stable and no head is even
more stable.
I find that mounting a lens directly to the ball head is scarier
than mounting to a Sidekick. I have seen the lens drift downward
too often and know that someday, during adjustment, the ballhead
will rorate downward and cause the lens to hit the tripod with a
crash.
See, that's where a properly tensioned ball head works great. Markin showed a video of their head holding an 800mm Sigma. And they showed how it should move while on the head. To date, I've only been able to do that with the Markin heads and the RRS heads although I was using a 600 F4.0 and a 400 F2.8 rather than the Sigam 800. That's why all the other heads ended up getting sold and why I'm so down on the Kirk heads.

Properly tensioned for the weight, I'm able to adjust the direction of the lens with minor amounts of pressure and when there isn't any pressure, there is no movement of the lens/camera. I do this with the locking knob lossened. And when I like the position, I lock the locking knob and I can't move the system, even with considerable pressure placed on it.

The tension can also be adjusted quickly for when I just have a camera and small lens on it since I still want smooth motion and with too much tension, the motion will not be smooth.

--
Tony

http://www.pbase.com/a5m/ http://AnthonyMedici.naturescapes.net/
 
Thanks for your description, Tony. I think that the Arca Swiss Monoball B1 may be too small for 300mm f/2.8 and 400mm f/2.8, just as everyone keeps telling me. I'll switch it for the ballheads you're using.
 
Neil said: "... having an actual clamp to the body via the body plate is probably more vibration resistant than sitting on that cradle."

Yes, probably more stable. However, I like to take a vertical composition once in a while!! I don't know how we can get 2 point stability AND flexibility of horizontal/vertical.

Keep looking, everyone.
John
 
Good point. Even with an L bracket, there would most likely not be enough height, similar to the problem discussed here with Pro bodies with grips.

--
Regards,
Neil
 
Interesting exchange, sting and Tony.

I always thought the A-S B1 was fully capable of holding a "sweet spot", and for that matter the Kirks too, in their respective weight class.

For that matter, the B1 is supposed to have the best sweet spot because of the elliptical ball design, at the expense of the lock up issue, of course. I have played with a B1 in the field and I thought it did that very well.

With my Markins heads, I've learned where to back off the tension such that I can "down load" it to a smaller payload yet never have the head so loose that it would flop hard if I let go. IOW, I always have tension on my head, even when readjusting tension for a different payload. I set it to a point where it might drift down slowly, but not slam down.

--
Regards,
Neil
 
I have been following this thread with great interest and appreciate the knowledge gained from those of you with long lenses.

Neil, I like you have the 500 F/4P, and I am quickly realizing the inportance of stability in all parts of the set-up. I am using: 1325 + Kirk BH-3 w/Sidekick + 500 F/4P. I had purchased the BH-3 (used) before the 500 and I mistakenly thought I could get away using it with the long lens.

From everything I have read here and in other forums, the Markins M10/20 or the RRS BH-55, are regarded as the best for supporting this lens.

I want to move up in this direction, and I'm not sure if this is the best way to go. The full Wimberley it seems would be better, but I'm not sure I'm willing to give up the versatility of the Sidekick/ballhead combination.

I know a lot of this is practice in long lens technique, and I'm more than willing to put in the time. For $2K used, the 500 f/4P seems to be a great first lens when it comes to the big guns. I just want to provide the most stable set-up I can while I continue to improve my technique.

Any suggestions or insight would be much appreciated.

Pat
 
I have never used a BH-3. I use an M10 with my 500P and 300 2.8 on a Sidekick. I recently acquired an M20, but not for any particular reason other than I needed a 2nd head and it better fits the enormous plate on my M20 and bigger is better :-)

One thing to keep in mind is that when ballheads are suggested for long lenses, there is an implied assumption that there is no gimbal mount in between. Based on what I know about the BH-3, I would not use that directly under my 500P, or even my 300 2.8. The reason, though, is that when dreictly mounted to the lens, you want the smoothest "sweetspot" you can get. No "stick-slip", which is what it is sometimes called. The slightest stick-slip will drive you crazy at 500MM+ focal length. You might never notice that at 200mm. If you don't get a good sweet spot, that forces you to run the head at a lower minimum tension than otherwise requried, and that can lead to gear accidents and, in general is a more difficult way to work.

As I see it, there are two important requrements for a ballhead supporting a Sidekick:

1) Sheer gripping power when it is locked down. The sweet spot performance and "smoothness" is irrelevent.

2) A good size ball stem to minimize any vibrations from that component. This is probably the less important of these two issues but I don't have enough heads to test that theory. While I suspect there is some vibration from the ball stem, I doubt that it is a major weak link in the context of the entire support system and 500P.

With all that said, a ball head that is robust enough to provide a good sweet spot may be needed just for holding power and, to a lesser extent, to minimize ball stem vibration (and any other incidental vibration from a locked down ballhead- it may nto all come from the ball stem).

Do you have issues with the BH-3's holding power? Does it ever slip?

As far as a sidekick vs full Wimberly, Wimberly has a very good web page describing the differences:

http://www.tripodhead.com/faqs-wimberley-vs-sidekick.cfm

Having used a Sidekick for years and recently playing with a full Wimberly in the field, I think it can be best summarized as follows:

1) A full Wimberly can be considered a "safer" device less likely to have an accident due to misbalancing the lens (you know what I mean here) and it is infinitely easier to mount the lens. There are relative advantages and disadvanatages IMHO, to either system, strictly in terms of performance, which I can elaborate if you are interested. The main difference, though, is ergonomics, not performance.

2) Wimberly claims, contrary to "conventional wisdom" as often repeated on these net sites, that the Sidekick is actually a more stable mechanical device than the full Wimberly. They also state that the differences are swamped by the stability issues inherent in the legs.

From the above, it would seem that upgrading to a full Wimberly will not solve your stability problem. It may make the lens easier to manage, and from that point of view there is much to be said for a full Wimberly. I am thinking about that myself, mainly because I would like to be able to use my 300 2.8 AFS and 500P side by side, getting the best of all worlds.

Aside from the expensive and somewhat bizarre multi-point devices discussed elsewhere in this thread, that leaves the ballhead and the legs.

If you do upgrade the ballhead, go for an M20 if you go with a Markins. Although I have mounted my 500P directly on the M10 and M20 (and with sidekick) and see very little difference in performance, I have not yet done any vibration tests with actual images and that is the only thing that counts. In the Markins line, the M20 is so close to the M10 in size, weight and cost that it just makes sense to go all the way, especially with your lens. The BH-40/BH-55 and Bh-1/BH-3 are much further apart than the Markins.

(Continued next post)
 
As far as legs... if you want to stay with CF, you would have to go to the 5 series, which is not only more expensive but much heavier and bulky. Out in the field, I ran across a guy with a Canon Pro body, 1325, full wimberly, and 400 2.8 + some TC, probably 1.4x (I forget). I had the 1410, M10, Sidekick and 300 2.8 + TC17. At my suggestion, we swapped lenses back and forth because he was complaining about stability and unsharp images. Neither of us saw a difference.

Read my post here, in a current long lens/vr debate, for my thoughts on bigger glass, in general.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1030&message=22009513

The 1410 is certainly more massive than the 1325. It has a 37mm diameter leg, verses 32mm for a 3 series. I have no opinion as to the relative vibration characteristics of CF vs AL. I've never been able to test otherwise comparable legs of the two materials.

With all that said, I doubt that you would see a significant improvement with that lens with any upgrade, UNLESS the BH-3 is the weak link. Not owning one, I can't have an opinion on that, other than to say that that head is, in general, drastically under-sized for a 500P. That lens is inherently unstable. I actually thought about the idea of drilling a hole in a cinder block and glueing in a 3/8" stud such that I could then lay down a sheet of ,metal (to protect the bottom of the ballhead) and mount my 500P. I want to see the performance after removing the legs from the equation. My guess is that a 500P is a tuning fork, and it will always be a tuning fork :-)

There is one ray of hope, short of Nikon introducing a 500 F/4 AFS VR, and both of us winning the lottery:

https://www.isarfoto.com/cms.php

Do a search on that page for "burzynski nikkor 500"

You will see a couple of Burzynski supports. Here is the one for the 500P:

https://www.isarfoto.com/cms.php/_pid:23653,l:500,pp:0,ps:az,st:burzynski%20nikkor%20500/de/0/Produkt.html

No image. If you narrow the search to just "Burzynski" you can see his designs on other lenses but note that most of them have front mounted lens feet. I have thought about ordering one of these but...

1) I have to order a product I have never seen and never seen reviewed from Europe. The shipping costs are such that it is an expensive trial regardless of their return privileges.

2) I believe he puts the 2nd suspension point just in front of the aperture ring. It seems to me that the design of the 500P is such that the two suspension points are very close together and therefore may not be as effective as they would be if placed further apart. Basic physics. The focusing ring is huge; doesn't leave much surface area to place a suspension point.

3) That item is on "Back order, please ask" status, and has always been on B/O status. Does it even exist?

This item, if it can be had, should cost less than $200 landed. I have never pursued it, but one of us needs to step up to the plate and try to source one of these gadgets.

Regards,
Neil

--
Regards,
Neil
 
With my Markins heads, I've learned where to back off the tension
such that I can "down load" it to a smaller payload yet never have
the head so loose that it would flop hard if I let go. IOW, I
always have tension on my head, even when readjusting tension for a
different payload. I set it to a point where it might drift down
slowly, but not slam down.
That's the point but to do that with a 400 F2.8 or a 600 F4.0, you need a lot more tension. In fact, with those, you don't want it to move at all no matter what angle you left it at.

--
Tony

http://www.pbase.com/a5m/ http://AnthonyMedici.naturescapes.net/
 
With my Markins heads, I've learned where to back off the tension
such that I can "down load" it to a smaller payload yet never have
the head so loose that it would flop hard if I let go. IOW, I
always have tension on my head, even when readjusting tension for a
different payload. I set it to a point where it might drift down
slowly, but not slam down.
That's the point but to do that with a 400 F2.8 or a 600 F4.0, you
need a lot more tension. In fact, with those, you don't want it to
move at all no matter what angle you left it at.
I can imagine that with that size head, your tension strategy might be a little different. They are beasts that must be tamed differently than smaller critters like normal size lenses. And certainly mounting them is a tricky operation. My 500P is pretty easy but the larger lenses may be different.

I think, though, that you and sting are talking about different things. Sting was talking about the proceudre to mount and retension the lens. Or maybe I totally misunderstood too....

The way I retension a large lens (in particular) is to lock the main knob, mount the lens, then, with left hand holding the lens, I'll back off the main knob a bit at a time until it's moveable but not floppy. Then I tilt it up at a 30-45 degree angle, and carefully let go. If I get the initial tension the way I wanted, it will drift slowly up. I'll nudge the main knob until it stops drifting, and then do a quick check, moving it back to about 35 degrees if it hit the housing collar. If it's holding right, I tighten the thumb screw and I'm good to go.

If I go from a large to a small(er) lens, I'll lock it down, swap lenses, and then back off the thumb screw about one or two twists. I have a good feel how far I need to go. Then, holding the lens, I'll back off the main knob, carefully now because I may have backed off the screw too much, to find a slightly too loose setting. I'll aim the lens up 30-45 degrees and watch the drift, tichten until it stops drifting, and lock the thumb screw.

It takes 5 seconds to do that, but 2 minutes to type it all out :-)

--
Regards,
Neil
 

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