Better Overhead Light Support

[Jay B]

Hello, all:

I'm looking for a better (and portable, not built-in) solution to holding overhead lighting, such as 1 or 2 monolights - one with reflector, one with a medium softbox. Pretty heavy (12-24 pounds)

Currently, I need two heavy duty booms/stands with counterweights to do this (Bogen 3119/3071's) weighing about 70 lbs. total. Alot to tote.

What I was considering, is finding or building a tubular steel, telescoping crossbar that can be hung between two heavy-duty backdrop supports or lightstands or existing boomstands.

My thought was to create a fairly rigid (compared to aluminum) 3-section tubular steel crossbar out of 1-1/4 inch, 5 foot telescoping antenna mast sections, pinned together with two 1/4 inch bolts for positive locking. I'd then attach two Bogen 123 pivoting boom clamps to mount lights on and hang the contraption from two stands. Overall, the crossbar would be 8 or 12 feet long (I'd cut down the mast sections and use only as many sections as needed on each shoot) and would need to support 12-24 pounds of lighting while remaining safe & stable.

The resulting boom with clamps would not weight more than about 10 pounds, and I'd get to reuse my existing stands. If I use backdrop stands, total setup weight would be about 25 lbs, a savings (to my back) of 45 pounds - no counterweights needed, either.

So... any suggestions or comments? Is there a commercial solution to this problem? I'm handy with tools & fabrication, but would prefer a prepackaged solution.

Thanks for your input!

Brian C.

 

[Bern Caughey]

Brian,

What your describing is called a "goal post", due it's resemblance to a football goal post. I often use these for heavy set-ups, but they should still be weighted down with sand/shot bags. Goal posts are a pain to reposition & I'd only go this route if you absolutely have to.

A better solution would to get rid of the heavy monoblocs & subsituite a pack & head system. Since I doubt you'll go this route, you can get heavier gauge alluminium tubes, as steel is very heavy & will require substantial base weighting. Companies such as Matthews, American Studio Equipement, Norm's, & Modern Studio Equipment make better connectors then the boom model your considering.

Regards,
Bern Caughey

--
APA/LA
http://www.apanational.org/

 

[jlongo]

A partial solution, using your current gear, is to use water bags as your counterbalances. They weight almost nothing to carry and require only that you have a source of water to set up.
--
Growing older is mandatory; growing up is optional!
Joe

 

[Michael Long]

A partial solution, using your current gear, is to use water bags
as your counterbalances. They weight almost nothing to carry and
require only that you have a source of water to set up.

Of course, then there's the issue of having water sources around electrical gear. Water bags, if used, should be weights for things like reflectors, or flying scrims.

On one hand, I'd look at getting gear bags, airline golf bag cases, or the like that have wheels that would make dragging the stuff around easier.

On the other, I'd see if there were alternative ways to do what you're doing. Put a grid on a reflector to narrow the beam, and maybe you can put one of the lights on a stand off to one side, and not have to boom it.

 

[Jay B]

Bern:

Thanks for your advice. You are right, the monoblocs are here to stay (and they are not light ones, either - Travelite 750's). I'll investigate the vendors you've listed. Hopefully, I'll be able to reduce carry weight & bulk. Then again, maybe not!

J:

The counterweight is just a part of the problem - and I'd really hesitiate to place water near electrical equipment. Creative thought, though, thanks!

Michael:

I already use a heavy-duty expandable trolley to tote stuff, that way the equipment stays in its fitted bags. Regarding rethinking lighting to reduce equipment - yes, that is a valid approach, and I'll have to do some experimenting. Thanks for your suggestions.

Brian C.

Brian,

What your describing is called a "goal post", due it's resemblance
to a football goal post. I often use these for heavy set-ups, but
they should still be weighted down with sand/shot bags. Goal posts
are a pain to reposition & I'd only go this route if you absolutely
have to.

A better solution would to get rid of the heavy monoblocs &
subsituite a pack & head system. Since I doubt you'll go this
route, you can get heavier gauge alluminium tubes, as steel is very
heavy & will require substantial base weighting. Companies such as
Matthews, American Studio Equipement, Norm's, & Modern Studio
Equipment make better connectors then the boom model your
considering.

Regards,
Bern Caughey

--
APA/LA
http://www.apanational.org/

 

[jlongo]

Of course, then there's the issue of having water sources around
electrical gear. Water bags, if used, should be weights for things
like reflectors, or flying scrims.

Onn the contrary, water is not a good conductor of electricity! Impurities in it can make it so, however.

I don't think I would worry too much since it would be hung at least 5 ft from the strobe and accompanying electronics.
--
Growing older is mandatory; growing up is optional!
Joe

 

[Michael Long]

I don't think I would worry too much since it would be hung at
least 5 ft from the strobe and accompanying electronics.

It's not where it's hanging that bothers me. It's where the water ends up when (not if) it's knocked over...

 

[Jay B]

Gentlemen:

Low-conductivity ultrapure water is used to clean high voltage DC transmission lines, which accumulate crud by attracting dust, just as a static-charged balloon will. But... this water is ultra-pure. And the men using are wearing special suits and handling equipment to avoid contaminating it.

Tap water (reservoir or from wells) is conductive due to free chlorine and metal ions (salts) that are dissolved in it. If this were not enough, your skin is usually coated with a layer of salts, as a by product of even the most mild sweat. Dipping your hand in distilled water will boost conductivity many fold. It does not take much to make water highly conductive.

How many people have found this out the hard way, by dropping a razor or hair dryer into a bathtub they were in, and being electrocuted. Minimum electrocution current is only a few tens of milliamperes throught the heart.

Please, please, please NEVER place wet or potentially leaky objects near high-voltage sources, which lighting packs and monoblocs fundamentally are. Since V/R=I, the higher the voltage, the easier it is to get just the right amount of current into your body... to kill you.

Brian C.

I don't think I would worry too much since it would be hung at
least 5 ft from the strobe and accompanying electronics.

It's not where it's hanging that bothers me. It's where the water
ends up when (not if) it's knocked over...