Best dynamic range techniques and tips for the D810

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

That's exactly what HDR is--it's sometimes abused in how people configure the compression, but it's also exactly what you're asking for. A single shot out of the the D810 (or many of the Nikons with 14+ stops) can easily make that "HDR" look.

But at some point, you have to compress the dynamic range in order to be able to display the image--unless you have an extremely bright monitor with pure blacks.

The built in picture controls can be a good starting point for this--I personally use 'Flat' more than anything. HDR tools can also help--if you use them responsibly and pay close attention to the settings.

 

[beatboxa]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

In order to reduce the shadow noise, they can bracket...which once again is using a high dynamic range.

 

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

Its about maximising what the camera can capture and shooting at base iso will not guaranty the most amount of data that you can capture.

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

In order to reduce the shadow noise, they can bracket...which once again is using a high dynamic range.

One side I maximised the amount of data that the camera captured while not clipping the DR of the setup and the other I let the camera decide based on what the camera was programed to do.



100 %

No shadows are lifted in this setup

--
The Camera is only a tool, photography is deciding how to use it.
The hardest part about capturing wildlife is not the photographing portion; it’s getting them to sign a model release

 

[beatboxa]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

Its about maximising what the camera can capture and shooting at base iso will not guaranty the most amount of data that you can capture.

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

In order to reduce the shadow noise, they can bracket...which once again is using a high dynamic range.

One side I maximised the amount of data that the camera captured while not clipping the DR of the setup and the other I let the camera decide based on what the camera was programed to do.

Explain your exact methods here. EXIF Data? What did the camera decide on vs what you did?

100 %

No shadows are lifted in this setup

--
The Camera is only a tool, photography is deciding how to use it.
The hardest part about capturing wildlife is not the photographing portion; it’s getting them to sign a model release

More importantly, what does any of that have to do with what I was talking about? You do realize that the jpeg you posted (like every JPEG) is processed, right? Shadows were lifted there--by the renderer. But everyone has a choice in how to process the scene, is the point. I'm talking about single shots, not HDR-stacked images.

Take a look at my example here and here . Those are all rendered from the same (not bracketed) image. Single shot. Maximizing dynamic range. Processing differently. Exactly what I was recommending to the OP, though it sounds like you're arguing that I was talking about brackeing images or something...?

 

[Will B Milner]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

I'm a landscape guy too and in my opinion/taste most automated HDR software produces garish unsightly results.

When it comes to landscape shots, sometimes the dynamic range of the scene can often be greater than the range the camera can capture. So whats the best answer? Well that depends on your dedication to producing a result from that particular image. Sure HDR software is quick and easy. I personally will always bracket 5-7 shots 1EV and exposure blend my landscapes in post processing. RAW correcting in Lightroom and full processing in Photoshop, that way you have full control over the local exposure of parts of the scene.

I will note that Lightroom, can also be an enemy. All I really do in LR is correct distortion, aberrations, white balance and adjust exposure +/- 0.5EV (if more is required use one of the other bracketed shots). Turn off that terrible noise reduction and sharpening, and leave that damn clarity slider alone.... It's a halo inducing scourge

 

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

In order to reduce the shadow noise, they can bracket...which once again is using a high dynamic range.

One side I maximised the amount of data that the camera captured while not clipping the DR of the setup and the other I let the camera decide based on what the camera was programed to do.

Explain your exact methods here. EXIF Data? What did the camera decide on vs what you did?

what the camera metered


Me maximising the DR of the capture using a Raw histogram

No shadows are lifted in this se

More importantly, what does any of that have to do with what I was talking about?

I increased the captured DR in the image and that reduced the noise in the shadows.

Something you said could not be done in a single exposure

You do realize that the jpeg you posted (like every JPEG) is processed, right?

Yup

Shadows were lifted there--by the renderer. But everyone has a choice in how to process the scene, is the point. I'm talking about single shots, not HDR-stacked images.

the shadows are lifted the same amount in my setup

Take a look at my example here and here . Those are all rendered from the same (not bracketed) image. Single shot. Maximizing dynamic range.

You first have to understand that to get the maximum DR from a camera does not come from shooting at base iso alone it needs light and the image with more light has more DR.

Processing differently. Exactly what I was recommending to the OP, though it sounds like you're arguing that I was talking about brackeing images or something...?

Nope single exposure only maximised the DR that raw file captured

Reread the green above that is underlined and in bold

"Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. "

--
The Camera is only a tool, photography is deciding how to use it.
The hardest part about capturing wildlife is not the photographing portion; it’s getting them to sign a model release

 

[beatboxa]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

In order to reduce the shadow noise, they can bracket...which once again is using a high dynamic range.

One side I maximised the amount of data that the camera captured while not clipping the DR of the setup and the other I let the camera decide based on what the camera was programed to do.

Explain your exact methods here. EXIF Data? What did the camera decide on vs what you did?

what the camera metered


Me maximising the DR of the capture using a Raw histogram

No shadows are lifted in this se

More importantly, what does any of that have to do with what I was talking about?

I increased the captured DR in the image and that reduced the noise in the shadows.

Again, what does this have to do with what I was talking about? You keep saying "what the camera metered", but you could have just used highlight metering instead. That's why cameras have different metering modes. And even then, you take a shot that has relatively low dynamic range anyway. What does a low dynamic range image have to do with high dynamic range shooting? Also, how can you prove that these two post-processed jpeg images have different dynamic ranges?

Have you ever seen or conducted a dynamic range test ? Before you answer, you should know that I have. This is my Panasonic GM1 that Bill & I conducted--which are the GM1 results are on that site. And they weren't low dynamic range processed jpegs.

Either way, it's completely irrelevant to what my post was about. Reread my post and explain what any of this has to do with it.

Something you said could not be done in a single exposure

Where did I say that? Take a picture on a sunny day with the sun & sky and dark shadows in the scene, like this link I gave you that you didn't respond to. Then tell me how you would do that in a single exposure. But even then, my point was about how to process an image with a (truly) high dynamic range like my link.

The dynamic range of the scene I provided exceeds the camera's dynamic range. The image you provided above doesn't come anywhere close to the camera's dynamic range. You might as well have taken a shot of a uniformly lit wall. This is why it's irrelevant to my post.

Want to know what dynamic range tests look like? Here is just one example of many images I took when we were testing the dynamic range of the Panasonic GM1:

You do realize that the jpeg you posted (like every JPEG) is processed, right?

Yup

Doesn't seem like you do because you keep posting them as if they have anything to do with my original post or as if they are a measure for dynamic range. Somehow.

Shadows were lifted there--by the renderer. But everyone has a choice in how to process the scene, is the point. I'm talking about single shots, not HDR-stacked images.

the shadows are lifted the same amount in my setup

I thought you said they weren't lifted? Changing that now? Your exact words were: "No shadows are lifted in this setup".

Take a look at my example here and here . Those are all rendered from the same (not bracketed) image. Single shot. Maximizing dynamic range.

You first have to understand that to get the maximum DR from a camera does not come from shooting at base iso alone it needs light and the image with more light has more DR.

I never said it does come from base iSO alone. You're making stuff up in your head. You have to understand that sometimes a scene will exceed the dynamic range that the camera is capable of capturing. This is called: "High Dynamic Range ". Do you know what HDR means? The definition?:

• High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI) is a high dynamic range (HDR) technique used in imaging and photography to reproduce a greater dynamic range of luminosity than is possible with standard digital imaging or photographic techniques. The aim is to present a similar range of luminance to that experienced through the human visual system.

Now, can you explain how your scene is an example of high dynamic range imaging? Because this is the exact same reason that your little setup doesn't apply. It is in no ways relevant to high dynamic range shooting.

Processing differently. Exactly what I was recommending to the OP, though it sounds like you're arguing that I was talking about brackeing images or something...?

Nope single exposure only maximised the DR that raw file captured

Reread the green above that is underlined and in bold

"Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. "

Reread my post, and tell me what anything you're saying has to do with my post. It's completely irrelevant. You seem to be making things up in your head. I never said the OP shouldn't maximize DR with a single shot. I said that the dynamic range captured by the camera can be very large (14+ stops), and that it needs to be processed & compressed when its displayed. And this can either be heavily compressed locally (like in the 'HDR look') or it can be done in a natural way. Explain what any of what you're saying has to do with that.

 

[primeshooter]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

That's exactly what HDR is--it's sometimes abused in how people configure the compression, but it's also exactly what you're asking for. A single shot out of the the D810 (or many of the Nikons with 14+ stops) can easily make that "HDR" look.

But at some point, you have to compress the dynamic range in order to be able to display the image--unless you have an extremely bright monitor with pure blacks.

The built in picture controls can be a good starting point for this--I personally use 'Flat' more than anything. HDR tools can also help--if you use them responsibly and pay close attention to the settings.

You know that shooting flat, standard or vivid, or any picture control it all makes no real difference, just influences the jpg on the LCD. If you are shooting RAW, I can shoot in a contrasty picture mode like standard and have the same detail in the RAW to play with in post. Worth mentioning.

HDR is a paradox. Too many people go overboard as you say and the files lack no blacks or shadows. I nearly always have my files with the left of the histogram touching the "wall" for some contrast.

 

[Matsu]

Just because you can lift shadows, doesn't mean that you should. What the D8x0 cameras can do here is pretty amazing, but your results will still be better if you're using all that range as far right as possible and using it to shape rather than lift exposures.

Generally, you want to shoot RAW and get as close as possible to clipping the highlights without clipping them. How practical it is to achieve that depends on your shooting conditions and lighting - it is not always the right solution.

Also not a fan of HDR, but a nicely tone mapped image can work beautifully, and the further to the right your histogram is exposed (without clipping) the easier it is to achieve that.

 

[beatboxa]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

That's exactly what HDR is--it's sometimes abused in how people configure the compression, but it's also exactly what you're asking for. A single shot out of the the D810 (or many of the Nikons with 14+ stops) can easily make that "HDR" look.

But at some point, you have to compress the dynamic range in order to be able to display the image--unless you have an extremely bright monitor with pure blacks.

The built in picture controls can be a good starting point for this--I personally use 'Flat' more than anything. HDR tools can also help--if you use them responsibly and pay close attention to the settings.

You know that shooting flat, standard or vivid, or any picture control it all makes no real difference, just influences the jpg on the LCD. If you are shooting RAW, I can shoot in a contrasty picture mode like standard and have the same detail in the RAW to play with in post. Worth mentioning.

Correct, which is why I mentioned it.

HDR is a paradox. Too many people go overboard as you say and the files lack no blacks or shadows. I nearly always have my files with the left of the histogram touching the "wall" for some contrast.

Agreed, which is why I mentioned it. This is what my original post (and subsequent links) were about.

 

[Will B Milner]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

That's exactly what HDR is--it's sometimes abused in how people configure the compression, but it's also exactly what you're asking for. A single shot out of the the D810 (or many of the Nikons with 14+ stops) can easily make that "HDR" look.

But at some point, you have to compress the dynamic range in order to be able to display the image--unless you have an extremely bright monitor with pure blacks.

The built in picture controls can be a good starting point for this--I personally use 'Flat' more than anything. HDR tools can also help--if you use them responsibly and pay close attention to the settings.

You know that shooting flat, standard or vivid, or any picture control it all makes no real difference, just influences the jpg on the LCD. If you are shooting RAW, I can shoot in a contrasty picture mode like standard and have the same detail in the RAW to play with in post. Worth mentioning.

Correct, which is why I mentioned it.

It's worth noting that you should select the correct picture control in Lightroom though.... Adobe Standard is ugly. Camera Flat/Neutral are the best for taking into Photoshop.

HDR is a paradox. Too many people go overboard as you say and the files lack no blacks or shadows. I nearly always have my files with the left of the histogram touching the "wall" for some contrast.

Agreed, which is why I mentioned it. This is what my original post (and subsequent links) were about.

 

[primeshooter]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

That's exactly what HDR is--it's sometimes abused in how people configure the compression, but it's also exactly what you're asking for. A single shot out of the the D810 (or many of the Nikons with 14+ stops) can easily make that "HDR" look.

But at some point, you have to compress the dynamic range in order to be able to display the image--unless you have an extremely bright monitor with pure blacks.

The built in picture controls can be a good starting point for this--I personally use 'Flat' more than anything. HDR tools can also help--if you use them responsibly and pay close attention to the settings.

You know that shooting flat, standard or vivid, or any picture control it all makes no real difference, just influences the jpg on the LCD. If you are shooting RAW, I can shoot in a contrasty picture mode like standard and have the same detail in the RAW to play with in post. Worth mentioning.

Correct, which is why I mentioned it.

It's worth noting that you should select the correct picture control in Lightroom though.... Adobe Standard is ugly. Camera Flat/Neutral are the best for taking into Photoshop.

HDR is a paradox. Too many people go overboard as you say and the files lack no blacks or shadows. I nearly always have my files with the left of the histogram touching the "wall" for some contrast.

Agreed, which is why I mentioned it. This is what my original post (and subsequent links) were about.

 

[beatboxa]

It's worth noting that you should select the correct picture control in Lightroom though.... Adobe Standard is ugly. Camera Flat/Neutral are the best for taking into Photoshop.

I personally avoid using Lightroom to render my initial RAW--I really don't like its interpretations or lens corrections. It may not be as accurate as Nikon's native tools (though very slightly). There's a whole thread here on that

I like to use Nikon's native Capture NX-D to do my initial conversion from NEF--almost always using Nikon's "Flat" picture control with no additional adjustments, outputting a TIFF; and then using other software (LR or similar) for color corrections, noise reductions, sharpness, etc. I don't enjoy having an extra step, but for me, this provides the highest quality conversion, takes advantage of my camera features, and really maximizes the IQ.

 

[Will B Milner]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

That's exactly what HDR is--it's sometimes abused in how people configure the compression, but it's also exactly what you're asking for. A single shot out of the the D810 (or many of the Nikons with 14+ stops) can easily make that "HDR" look.

But at some point, you have to compress the dynamic range in order to be able to display the image--unless you have an extremely bright monitor with pure blacks.

The built in picture controls can be a good starting point for this--I personally use 'Flat' more than anything. HDR tools can also help--if you use them responsibly and pay close attention to the settings.

You know that shooting flat, standard or vivid, or any picture control it all makes no real difference, just influences the jpg on the LCD. If you are shooting RAW, I can shoot in a contrasty picture mode like standard and have the same detail in the RAW to play with in post. Worth mentioning.

Correct, which is why I mentioned it.

It's worth noting that you should select the correct picture control in Lightroom though.... Adobe Standard is ugly. Camera Flat/Neutral are the best for taking into Photoshop.

HDR is a paradox. Too many people go overboard as you say and the files lack no blacks or shadows. I nearly always have my files with the left of the histogram touching the "wall" for some contrast.

Agreed, which is why I mentioned it. This is what my original post (and subsequent links) were about.

--
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I find adobe standard a good starting point. Neutral and flat are so lifeless, can be there for a while fixing that. Adobe standard has a nicely lifted whites and highlight area in the files. YMMV.

I guess it's persona preference as always. But If you're processing things in PS, the most accurate is the most neutral camera profile possible (flat or neutral), it allows YOU to control and adjust the contrast and colours. Adobe Standard is fairly destructive before you even edit, I prefer to have the latitude.

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Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/WBMilner/

 

[bclaff]

Want to know what dynamic range tests look like? Here is just one example of many images I took when we were testing the dynamic range of the Panasonic GM1:

Look familiar

Regards,

--
Bill ( Your trusted source for independent sensor data at http://www.photonstophotos.net )

 

[beatboxa]

Want to know what dynamic range tests look like? Here is just one example of many images I took when we were testing the dynamic range of the Panasonic GM1:

Look familiar

Regards,

--
Bill ( Your trusted source for independent sensor data at http://www.photonstophotos.net )

That's right, Bill! Your controlled test patterns for DR! A bit easier to use this to test RAW DR than an uncontrolled, unlit color pattern...

Speaking of which, for anyone following this thread, if you like seeing DR results at various ISO's, let's all help Bill out and contribute & test DR for various cameras, including phones. It doesn't take long to do.

Many of us have used his site to recommend things like "use the lowest native ISO for max DR", etc.--but tests like this can prove our general patterns wrong. For example, my Panny GM1 above turns out to have better DR at lower-than-native ISO--which was a great surprise to me!

Anyways, let's all help out and donate a tiny bit of downtime. Please see the thread here .

 

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

"...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me."

Ian wrote:

"A person may want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not doing HDR"

beatboxa wrote:

"Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'..."

Ian wrote:

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

___________________________________________________________________

You keep saying "what the camera metered", but you could have just used highlight metering instead. That's why cameras have different metering modes. And even then, you take a shot that has relatively low dynamic range anyway.

The whole thread by the OP was to maximise what the D810 can give him, you then go and question him why he would want to increase the DR of capture if he does not want to have the HDR look.

I explain why one might want to maximise what the camera captures and in doing so you can decrease the noise in the shadows. As shown in the set of images. Both jepg images show the same amount of jepg DR while one of the images show less noise in shadows that is hardly pushed if any other than what the software used for a standard processing.

The reason why this image was selected, it was a low DR range image, by maximising the what DR data the sensor could collect I reduced the level of noise in the shadows which where not lifted to the look like a HDR image. If I want to really push the shadow to 1-5 stops then the noise would become even more evident but was something the OP was not interested in.

What does a low dynamic range image have to do with high dynamic range shooting? Also, how can you prove that these two post-processed jpeg images have different dynamic ranges?

DR is all based on the noise floor you would find acceptable, If one image has less noise in the same shadows that would mean that raw file captured more DR (this is what the OP wants to know). I could say that the extra noise found in the one image is an unacceptable noise level, with both raw files being processed to the same jpg brightness clearly the raw file that captured more noise in the same shadows has less DR.

The OP was all about increase what they can getting from the D810, that would be to collect as much DR that sensor has the ability to capture. This requires you to place as much of that DR of the scene and placing as much of it into that raw file. When this is done this will not only give you greater DR for deeper shadow pushing but it will also decrease the level of noise found in shadows even when they are not pushed. As shown in my images.

Have you ever seen or conducted a dynamic range test ? Before you answer, you should know that I have. This is my Panasonic GM1 that Bill & I conducted--which are the GM1 results are on that site. And they weren't low dynamic range processed jpegs.

The OP was not interested in HDR processed jpegs, they wanted to know about how to put as much DR into the raw file as they can. Shooting base iso will not guarantee this. They must first insure they place as much of the scenes DR into the raw and in doing this it will reduce the noise found in all of the tones and improve color. ( what the OP really wants to know but you keep side tracking it to HDR)

It really has nothing to do with how much DR the sensor can capture that is set, they want to know how to maximise what the D810 can do!

Either way, it's completely irrelevant to what my post was about. Reread my post and explain what any of this has to do with it.

Something you said could not be done in a single exposure

Where did I say that? Take a picture on a sunny day with the sun & sky and dark shadows in the scene, like this link I gave you that you didn't respond to. Then tell me how you would do that in a single exposure. But even then, my point was about how to process an image with a (truly) high dynamic range like my link.

The dynamic range of the scene I provided exceeds the camera's dynamic range. The image you provided above doesn't come anywhere close to the camera's dynamic range. You might as well have taken a shot of a uniformly lit wall. This is why it's irrelevant to my post.

The OP was not interested in HDR

Want to know what dynamic range tests look like? Here is just one example of many images I took when we were testing the dynamic range of the Panasonic GM1:

You do realize that the jpeg you posted (like every JPEG) is processed, right?

Yup

Doesn't seem like you do because you keep posting them as if they have anything to do with my original post or as if they are a measure for dynamic range. Somehow.

They are not about the DR of the jpeg, they are about maximising the DR captured in the raw file. I increased the DR captured in the raw file while not blowing out the image. and doing so there is less noise in the shadows. ( I better place the scenes DR inline with what the sensor can capture) what the OP really wants to know.

Shadows were lifted there--by the renderer. But everyone has a choice in how to process the scene, is the point. I'm talking about single shots, not HDR-stacked images.

the shadows are lifted the same amount in my setup

I thought you said they weren't lifted? Changing that now? Your exact words were: "No shadows are lifted in this setup".

They are only lifted by the standard profile used to render the jepg.

Take a look at my example here and here . Those are all rendered from the same (not bracketed) image. Single shot. Maximizing dynamic range.

You first have to understand that to get the maximum DR from a camera does not come from shooting at base iso alone it needs light and the image with more light has more DR.

I never said it does come from base iSO alone. You're making stuff up in your head. You have to understand that sometimes a scene will exceed the dynamic range that the camera is capable of capturing. This is called: "High Dynamic Range ". Do you know what HDR means? The definition?:

Yup nothing I don't already know but the OP wants to know how to get the best DR out of their camera and to do this they maximise the DR the camera captures so that they can increase the IQ of their images, even the ones that don't have the HDR look

• High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI) is a high dynamic range (HDR) technique used in imaging and photography to reproduce a greater dynamic range of luminosity than is possible with standard digital imaging or photographic techniques. The aim is to present a similar range of luminance to that experienced through the human visual system.

Now, can you explain how your scene is an example of high dynamic range imaging? Because this is the exact same reason that your little setup doesn't apply. It is in no ways relevant to high dynamic range shooting.

Never said it was a HDR image, it was to show that by maximising the DR that the raw file was able to capture you can lower noise even in the shadows that are not lifted.

Processing differently. Exactly what I was recommending to the OP, though it sounds like you're arguing that I was talking about brackeing images or something...?

Nope single exposure only maximised the DR that raw file captured

Reread the green above that is underlined and in bold

"Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. "

Reread my post, and tell me what anything you're saying has to do with my post.

Sure it does maximising how much DR the camera puts into the raw file will reduce the noise found throughout the entire image and HDR processing is not need to see the difference. This is what the OP wanted to know

It's completely irrelevant. You seem to be making things up in your head. I never said the OP shouldn't maximize DR with a single shot.

they want to know how!

You ask why do they want more DR if they are not going to do HDR my answer less noise everywhere and not limited to HDR pushing, this is by maximise the captured DR of the D810 file *** what they want to Know****

I said that the dynamic range captured by the camera can be very large (14+ stops), and that it needs to be processed & compressed when its displayed.

And this can either be heavily compressed locally (like in the 'HDR look') or it can be done in a natural way. Explain what any of what you're saying has to do with that.

As the OP wanted to know ( how to get the best out of the camera) and was not interested in the HDR look but better overall IQ it is only you that keeps bringing HDR to the discussion?

OP " I want to increase the captured DR of the D810"

you" why would you want to do that is you are not doing HDR"

Me" some people do this to decrease the noise in the image"

you "Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows "

Me " yes if you increase the DR captured by the sensor" <--- this is what the OP asked not the DR of the sensor but how to get the best DR into the raw file.

--
The Camera is only a tool, photography is deciding how to use it.
The hardest part about capturing wildlife is not the photographing portion; it’s getting them to sign a model release

 

[beatboxa]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

"...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me."

Ian wrote:

"A person may want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not doing HDR"

beatboxa wrote:

"Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'..."

Ian wrote:

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

I'm not here to argue with you. I don't dispute any of the above. I think the OP should try to maximize the dynamic range the camera will capture. You're skipping a lot of the other posts about exposure metering methods--but that's on you. However the OP does it (manual or using the camera), he/she should maximize the dynamic range captured by the camera. I never said he/she shouldn't--but I think you thought I said that.

___________________________________________________________________

You keep saying "what the camera metered", but you could have just used highlight metering instead. That's why cameras have different metering modes. And even then, you take a shot that has relatively low dynamic range anyway.

The whole thread by the OP was to maximise what the D810 can give him, you then go and question him why he would want to increase the DR of capture if he does not want to have the HDR look.

I explain why one might want to maximise what the camera captures and in doing so you can decrease the noise in the shadows. As shown in the set of images. Both jepg images show the same amount of jepg DR while one of the images show less noise in shadows that is hardly pushed if any other than what the software used for a standard processing.

The reason why this image was selected, it was a low DR range image, by maximising the what DR data the sensor could collect I reduced the level of noise in the shadows which where not lifted to the look like a HDR image. If I want to really push the shadow to 1-5 stops then the noise would become even more evident but was something the OP was not interested in.

The OP explicitly said he/she is interested in capturing more dynamic range. Maybe we interpreted this differently...but for me, the JPEG's you posted have effectively the same dynamic range. My interpretation was that the OP wanted more dynamic range.

What does a low dynamic range image have to do with high dynamic range shooting? Also, how can you prove that these two post-processed jpeg images have different dynamic ranges?

DR is all based on the noise floor you would find acceptable, If one image has less noise in the same shadows that would mean that raw file captured more DR (this is what the OP wants to know). I could say that the extra noise found in the one image is an unacceptable noise level, with both raw files being processed to the same jpg brightness clearly the raw file that captured more noise in the same shadows has less DR.

The OP was all about increase what they can getting from the D810, that would be to collect as much DR that sensor has the ability to capture. This requires you to place as much of that DR of the scene and placing as much of it into that raw file. When this is done this will not only give you greater DR for deeper shadow pushing but it will also decrease the level of noise found in shadows even when they are not pushed. As shown in my images.

See above. You still haven't responded to when the dynamic range of the scene exceeds the capabilities of the sensors (as I posted), but let's just agree to let the OP decide on whether he/she is looking for landscape DR or DR of a scene that naturally doesn't require much dynamic range.

Have you ever seen or conducted a dynamic range test ? Before you answer, you should know that I have. This is my Panasonic GM1 that Bill & I conducted--which are the GM1 results are on that site. And they weren't low dynamic range processed jpegs.

The OP was not interested in HDR processed jpegs, they wanted to know about how to put as much DR into the raw file as they can. Shooting base iso will not guarantee this. They must first insure they place as much of the scenes DR into the raw and in doing this it will reduce the noise found in all of the tones and improve color. ( what the OP really wants to know but you keep side tracking it to HDR)

It really has nothing to do with how much DR the sensor can capture that is set, they want to know how to maximise what the D810 can do!

See above. We may have interpreted the OP's requirements differently. I think the OP is fine when the scene doesn't naturally have a lot of dynamic range but was looking for how to maximize dynamic range (which requires a scene with a lot of dynamic range). I think you'll agree that the scene you provided has a limited dynamic range.

Either way, it's completely irrelevant to what my post was about. Reread my post and explain what any of this has to do with it.

Something you said could not be done in a single exposure

Where did I say that? Take a picture on a sunny day with the sun & sky and dark shadows in the scene, like this link I gave you that you didn't respond to. Then tell me how you would do that in a single exposure. But even then, my point was about how to process an image with a (truly) high dynamic range like my link.

The dynamic range of the scene I provided exceeds the camera's dynamic range. The image you provided above doesn't come anywhere close to the camera's dynamic range. You might as well have taken a shot of a uniformly lit wall. This is why it's irrelevant to my post.

The OP was not interested in HDR

Again, see above. The OP was interested in increasing dynamic range. Processing the scene you required would result in the "HDR effect" because the scene itself has a low dynamic range.

Want to know what dynamic range tests look like? Here is just one example of many images I took when we were testing the dynamic range of the Panasonic GM1:

You do realize that the jpeg you posted (like every JPEG) is processed, right?

Yup

Doesn't seem like you do because you keep posting them as if they have anything to do with my original post or as if they are a measure for dynamic range. Somehow.

They are not about the DR of the jpeg, they are about maximising the DR captured in the raw file. I increased the DR captured in the raw file while not blowing out the image. and doing so there is less noise in the shadows. ( I better place the scenes DR inline with what the sensor can capture) what the OP really wants to know.

The JPEG has a far smaller DR than the RAW. If the OP is interesting in maximizing DR, I hope you'd agree that RAW's have far more dynamic range than JPEG's. Let's just agree to let the OP decide.

Shadows were lifted there--by the renderer. But everyone has a choice in how to process the scene, is the point. I'm talking about single shots, not HDR-stacked images.

the shadows are lifted the same amount in my setup

I thought you said they weren't lifted? Changing that now? Your exact words were: "No shadows are lifted in this setup".

They are only lifted by the standard profile used to render the jepg.

Correct. Which is exactly what I said. However, you said they are not lifted at all, which I hope you'd agree is not correct now.

Take a look at my example here and here . Those are all rendered from the same (not bracketed) image. Single shot. Maximizing dynamic range.

You first have to understand that to get the maximum DR from a camera does not come from shooting at base iso alone it needs light and the image with more light has more DR.

I never said it does come from base iSO alone. You're making stuff up in your head. You have to understand that sometimes a scene will exceed the dynamic range that the camera is capable of capturing. This is called: "High Dynamic Range ". Do you know what HDR means? The definition?:

Yup nothing I don't already know but the OP wants to know how to get the best DR out of their camera and to do this they maximise the DR the camera captures so that they can increase the IQ of their images, even the ones that don't have the HDR look

This is an assumption. See above.

• High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI) is a high dynamic range (HDR) technique used in imaging and photography to reproduce a greater dynamic range of luminosity than is possible with standard digital imaging or photographic techniques. The aim is to present a similar range of luminance to that experienced through the human visual system.

Now, can you explain how your scene is an example of high dynamic range imaging? Because this is the exact same reason that your little setup doesn't apply. It is in no ways relevant to high dynamic range shooting.

Never said it was a HDR image, it was to show that by maximising the DR that the raw file was able to capture you can lower noise even in the shadows that are not lifted.

Again, an assumption that the scenes the OP is taking don't have a naturally wide dynamic range.

Processing differently. Exactly what I was recommending to the OP, though it sounds like you're arguing that I was talking about brackeing images or something...?

Nope single exposure only maximised the DR that raw file captured

Reread the green above that is underlined and in bold

"Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. "

Reread my post, and tell me what anything you're saying has to do with my post.

Sure it does maximising how much DR the camera puts into the raw file will reduce the noise found throughout the entire image and HDR processing is not need to see the difference. This is what the OP wanted to know

No. You're making assumptions about what I said again. Show me the specifics I wrote that you disagree with.

It's completely irrelevant. You seem to be making things up in your head. I never said the OP shouldn't maximize DR with a single shot.

they want to know how!

You ask why do they want more DR if they are not going to do HDR my answer less noise everywhere and not limited to HDR pushing, this is by maximise the captured DR of the D810 file *** what they want to Know****

Again, you're making assumptions about metering.

I said that the dynamic range captured by the camera can be very large (14+ stops), and that it needs to be processed & compressed when its displayed.

And this can either be heavily compressed locally (like in the 'HDR look') or it can be done in a natural way. Explain what any of what you're saying has to do with that.

As the OP wanted to know ( how to get the best out of the camera) and was not interested in the HDR look but better overall IQ it is only you that keeps bringing HDR to the discussion?

OP " I want to increase the captured DR of the D810"

you" why would you want to do that is you are not doing HDR"

Me" some people do this to decrease the noise in the image"

you "Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows "

Me " yes if you increase the DR captured by the sensor" <--- this is what the OP asked not the DR of the sensor but how to get the best DR into the raw file.

No. You're putting words into my mouth. I never said any of this. You misinterpreted what I said and made some incorrect assumptions.

What I said was that the OP should be careful about processing a scene with naturally high DR, since the D810 has a very vast DR that it is already capable of. Do you disagree with this?

I don't want to waste time or argue...at this point, let's just agree to let the OP take in the relevant facts and what's relevant to his/her use case.

 

[BirgerH]

Myself; I have my D800e set to -1 to how it meters, that way I don't need to worry about exposure compensation settings while in Aperture Priority for example.

Since the sensor easily pulls out more information from the shadows than the highlights I always tend to shoot around 1½ to 2 stops under what the camera would meter at factory reset.

I think the key difference between the D800 and the D810 is that the D810 can pull a lot from the highlights...maybe a stop more.

 

[mikeodial]

I shoot a lot of landscape on my D810. I am always looking for more dynamic range, color fidelity, smooth gradual transitions. Basically the sort of output I might expect from medium format.

I don't like the output of "HDR" except for special subject treatment, so am looking for ways to get the very best out of the D810.

I currently have a good range of Zeiss lenses and the 24-35 Sigma Art and am wondering if there are any tips that might help in this process.

...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me.

A person my want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not ding HDR

Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'...

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

"...you want 'more dynamic range', but you don't like 'High Dynamic Range..?' That doesn't make sense to me."

Ian wrote:

"A person may want to maximise the camera to reduce the noise in the shadows even when they are not doing HDR"

beatboxa wrote:

"Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows than elsewhere unless they boost the shadows...thus compressing the scene's 'high dynamic range'..."

Ian wrote:

Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. When you know where the camera clips you can then maximise what data is collected (more light) more data less noise. When you maximise what the camera captures ( by 1 stop) those shadows will contain ( 1stop) more data or 1 stop less noise.

___________________________________________________________________

You keep saying "what the camera metered", but you could have just used highlight metering instead. That's why cameras have different metering modes. And even then, you take a shot that has relatively low dynamic range anyway.

The whole thread by the OP was to maximise what the D810 can give him, you then go and question him why he would want to increase the DR of capture if he does not want to have the HDR look.

I explain why one might want to maximise what the camera captures and in doing so you can decrease the noise in the shadows. As shown in the set of images. Both jepg images show the same amount of jepg DR while one of the images show less noise in shadows that is hardly pushed if any other than what the software used for a standard processing.

The reason why this image was selected, it was a low DR range image, by maximising the what DR data the sensor could collect I reduced the level of noise in the shadows which where not lifted to the look like a HDR image. If I want to really push the shadow to 1-5 stops then the noise would become even more evident but was something the OP was not interested in.

What does a low dynamic range image have to do with high dynamic range shooting? Also, how can you prove that these two post-processed jpeg images have different dynamic ranges?

DR is all based on the noise floor you would find acceptable, If one image has less noise in the same shadows that would mean that raw file captured more DR (this is what the OP wants to know). I could say that the extra noise found in the one image is an unacceptable noise level, with both raw files being processed to the same jpg brightness clearly the raw file that captured more noise in the same shadows has less DR.

The OP was all about increase what they can getting from the D810, that would be to collect as much DR that sensor has the ability to capture. This requires you to place as much of that DR of the scene and placing as much of it into that raw file. When this is done this will not only give you greater DR for deeper shadow pushing but it will also decrease the level of noise found in shadows even when they are not pushed. As shown in my images.

Have you ever seen or conducted a dynamic range test ? Before you answer, you should know that I have. This is my Panasonic GM1 that Bill & I conducted--which are the GM1 results are on that site. And they weren't low dynamic range processed jpegs.

The OP was not interested in HDR processed jpegs, they wanted to know about how to put as much DR into the raw file as they can. Shooting base iso will not guarantee this. They must first insure they place as much of the scenes DR into the raw and in doing this it will reduce the noise found in all of the tones and improve color. ( what the OP really wants to know but you keep side tracking it to HDR)

It really has nothing to do with how much DR the sensor can capture that is set, they want to know how to maximise what the D810 can do!

Either way, it's completely irrelevant to what my post was about. Reread my post and explain what any of this has to do with it.

Something you said could not be done in a single exposure

Where did I say that? Take a picture on a sunny day with the sun & sky and dark shadows in the scene, like this link I gave you that you didn't respond to. Then tell me how you would do that in a single exposure. But even then, my point was about how to process an image with a (truly) high dynamic range like my link.

The dynamic range of the scene I provided exceeds the camera's dynamic range. The image you provided above doesn't come anywhere close to the camera's dynamic range. You might as well have taken a shot of a uniformly lit wall. This is why it's irrelevant to my post.

The OP was not interested in HDR

Want to know what dynamic range tests look like? Here is just one example of many images I took when we were testing the dynamic range of the Panasonic GM1:

You do realize that the jpeg you posted (like every JPEG) is processed, right?

Yup

Doesn't seem like you do because you keep posting them as if they have anything to do with my original post or as if they are a measure for dynamic range. Somehow.

They are not about the DR of the jpeg, they are about maximising the DR captured in the raw file. I increased the DR captured in the raw file while not blowing out the image. and doing so there is less noise in the shadows. ( I better place the scenes DR inline with what the sensor can capture) what the OP really wants to know.

Shadows were lifted there--by the renderer. But everyone has a choice in how to process the scene, is the point. I'm talking about single shots, not HDR-stacked images.

the shadows are lifted the same amount in my setup

I thought you said they weren't lifted? Changing that now? Your exact words were: "No shadows are lifted in this setup".

They are only lifted by the standard profile used to render the jepg.

Take a look at my example here and here . Those are all rendered from the same (not bracketed) image. Single shot. Maximizing dynamic range.

You first have to understand that to get the maximum DR from a camera does not come from shooting at base iso alone it needs light and the image with more light has more DR.

I never said it does come from base iSO alone. You're making stuff up in your head. You have to understand that sometimes a scene will exceed the dynamic range that the camera is capable of capturing. This is called: "High Dynamic Range ". Do you know what HDR means? The definition?:

Yup nothing I don't already know but the OP wants to know how to get the best DR out of their camera and to do this they maximise the DR the camera captures so that they can increase the IQ of their images, even the ones that don't have the HDR look

• High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI) is a high dynamic range (HDR) technique used in imaging and photography to reproduce a greater dynamic range of luminosity than is possible with standard digital imaging or photographic techniques. The aim is to present a similar range of luminance to that experienced through the human visual system.

Now, can you explain how your scene is an example of high dynamic range imaging? Because this is the exact same reason that your little setup doesn't apply. It is in no ways relevant to high dynamic range shooting.

Never said it was a HDR image, it was to show that by maximising the DR that the raw file was able to capture you can lower noise even in the shadows that are not lifted.

Processing differently. Exactly what I was recommending to the OP, though it sounds like you're arguing that I was talking about brackeing images or something...?

Nope single exposure only maximised the DR that raw file captured

Reread the green above that is underlined and in bold

"Most cameras will allow you to capture around 1stop more light than what the cameras histogram will show you as clipped or the meter of the camera records. "

Reread my post, and tell me what anything you're saying has to do with my post.

Sure it does maximising how much DR the camera puts into the raw file will reduce the noise found throughout the entire image and HDR processing is not need to see the difference. This is what the OP wanted to know

It's completely irrelevant. You seem to be making things up in your head. I never said the OP shouldn't maximize DR with a single shot.

they want to know how!

You ask why do they want more DR if they are not going to do HDR my answer less noise everywhere and not limited to HDR pushing, this is by maximise the captured DR of the D810 file *** what they want to Know****

I said that the dynamic range captured by the camera can be very large (14+ stops), and that it needs to be processed & compressed when its displayed.

And this can either be heavily compressed locally (like in the 'HDR look') or it can be done in a natural way. Explain what any of what you're saying has to do with that.

As the OP wanted to know ( how to get the best out of the camera) and was not interested in the HDR look but better overall IQ it is only you that keeps bringing HDR to the discussion?

OP " I want to increase the captured DR of the D810"

you" why would you want to do that is you are not doing HDR"

Me" some people do this to decrease the noise in the image"

you "Noise won't be any more visible in the shadows "

Me " yes if you increase the DR captured by the sensor" <--- this is what the OP asked not the DR of the sensor but how to get the best DR into the raw file.

--
The Camera is only a tool, photography is deciding how to use it.
The hardest part about capturing wildlife is not the photographing portion; it’s getting them to sign a model release

Just to clarify, I think you have my OP thoughts well understood. I obviously want as high as possible DR from the images I capture from the D810, but I don't want that artificial HDR look which I only use for some "special effect".

I hope to get as much color depth, tonal range and fidelity as possible from the camera. In many cases, for landscape and still life, I don't think I can improve much on the color rendition from the Zeiss zf.2 lenses which makes up most of my glass for the Nikon. So I am really trying to get as much "range" as possible.

If I am honest I am very interested in the DR and color depth look/3d pop which comes from some of the medium format systems out there, while realizing that is not easily achieved with FF. Much of this look is achieved by the large DR of these cameras (Pentax 645z, Leica S et al)

Hopes that helps to clarify my question and intention on the post.