Auto iso question

[mysteryman44]

I have the Nikon z 5 ii camera and shoot in auto iso. I’ve done this with previous Nikon cameras. So I wanted to try something different. I took auto iso off and set it manually. My photos seemed to turn out very nice. The setting I was using was manual. Do a lot of shooters just shoot with auto iso. Does the camera always get the correct exposure or is it touch and go. I will probably go back to auto iso since that’s what I normally use.

 

[Bob A L]

I don't use auto iso as I always feel the camera frequently makes some decisions I don't agree with. Personally when letting the camera decide exposure settings, I set iso myself aiming for the lowest ISO I can get by with and use aperture preferred most of the time. There are a million reasons to choose which exposure method to use. Manual, aperture preferred, shutter preferred, program, full auto, and auto iso. They all have their place in the big picture. Learning how to use which is part of the learning curve.

 

[Schrodingers cat]

Do a lot of shooters just shoot with auto iso.

I'm sure many do.

I rather like Aperture Priority with Auto ISO, although I frequently use other methods depending on the nature of the occasion.

For instance, if I'm shooting a sequence of similar images under consistent lighting i rather like full manual. That makes the various parameters of the images the same and makes it easier to match the images to each other.

Does the camera always get the correct exposure

I don't think we're likely to reach that point anytime soon, as "correct exposure" varies significantly with artistic intent, personal preference, and the nature of the scene.

I will probably go back to auto iso since that’s what I normally use.

While I applaud your willingness to experiment outside your comfort zone, at some point it's appropriate to just go with what works. If you're getting the results you like with your current method you've possibly discovered your sweet spot and perhaps should just press on

--
Personal travel snapshots at https://www.castle-explorers.com
1. Making good decisions is generally the result of experience.
2. Experience is generally the result of making bad decisions.
3. Never underestimate your capability for doing incredibly stupid s**t.

 

[areallygrumpyoldsod]

I have the Nikon z 5 ii camera and shoot in auto iso. I’ve done this with previous Nikon cameras. So I wanted to try something different. I took auto iso off and set it manually. My photos seemed to turn out very nice. The setting I was using was manual. Do a lot of shooters just shoot with auto iso. Does the camera always get the correct exposure or is it touch and go. I will probably go back to auto iso since that’s what I normally use.

It really depends on what you are shooting and how variable the light is, how important shutter speed and aperture control is and finally how important “just getting the shot” is vs achieving some ideal perfect “exposure”.

I shoot action and wildlife and only take RAW images. A big cat hunting prey, particularly cheetah, can move across a vast array of lighting when chasing a antelope (this is the action I seek most often on game drives - you just don’t have time to mess about - set shutter speed and aperture to be able to freeze the action without starting out with overly high initial iso and let auto-iso respond to the exposure during the action.



Art Morris, who knows a lot about shooting birds said he shoots fully manual - based on correctly exposing his where he expects his subjects are / will be relative to the sun. Such ability to predict has proven way harder when shooting big cat action — sometimes you can, but why move away from auto-iso if you are happy with the exposure you chose when you made the initial sighting.



Landscapes/studio work etc — go fully manual.

 

[ajr images]

I almost exclusively use Auto ISO in Manual mode with my Z9's and Z6III so that I can choose the aperture and shutter speed on the fly. It’s very rare that I get an incorrect exposure. Obviously, you need to consider your Auto ISO high and low settings.

 

[mysteryman44]

Ok, for my Nikon z5 ii in the iso sensitivity settings my max settings are 64,000 Minimum shutter speed 1/250. With auto iso set to on.

 

[Born2Code]

It depends on your subject matter. I heard a talk from a wildlife photographer who shoots in manual mode with auto iso. It lets him set the f-stop for the depth of field he wants and the shutter speed he needs to stop action.

OTOH, if you're shooting landscapes, you may want to set the lowest possible ISO that you can get away with for the best DR and least noise. But you might have to use a large f-stop and compromise your depth of field or need a tripod that you left at home.

Exposure depends on ISO, f-stop and shutter speed. You need to decide in any given situation which one(s) you feel the need to take control of.

 

[Paul Pasco]

Ever since I got the Z50, I have been using auto ISO set to 6400, unless it is a very important shot and I want it as clean as possible out of the camera.

 

[Bill Ferris]

I'll chime in as the oddball who shoots full manual. I've been manually setting f-stop, shutter speed, ISO, and white balance since 2018. It simplifies things and gets me more consistent results. And if a photo doesn't turn out, I know exactly where to look to find the reason why...in the mirror.

To clarify, f-stop and shutter speed are the two camera settings that determine exposure. Anyone shooting manual plus auto ISO mode is manually setting exposure. ISO is the setting we use to manage image lightness, which is different from exposure.

 

[Superscroll]

I'm just a hobbyist still learning about photography but to me auto iso is the greatest thing since sliced bread. On my last camera, a Fuji XT, I usually shot aperture priority with auto ISO at a 4 digit max. On the Z I just let it go to whatever ISO it wants. 160ss min and now I only have to worry about two things at most.

To me it gives you more time to think about the composition which pays huge dividends in the quality of my images.

 

[mysteryman44]

Hi Bill, your no odd ball, Iam learning these settings as well Experimenting etc. I will probably go back to auto iso, but it was fun in full manual to see the results. BTW I did hear that the North Grand Canyon was partially open. Great News. Thank you for the reply.

 

[AWG_Pics]

Fully manual with Auto ISO for moving birds and wildlife and other thigs going in and out of the sun and shade. Fully manual with base ISO for landscapes, macro, flowers, plants, bugs.

I have never used Aperture, Shutter or P mode. I suppose they have uses, but not for my purposes.

 

[mysteryman44]

That sums it up well. Makes sense, Thank u for the reply.

 

[owenleve]

You'll want to adjust as needed with exposure compensation + or - depending on the scene. It's still an automated 'dumb' setting and relying on metering. You'd get the same over/under exposed image if you were using any of the other auto settings. Think a heavily backlit scene. Same problem exists in auto iso or any other auto mode. The camera is finding neutral balance.

Some Z lenses allow you to adjust your exp comp with the additional ring on the lens. It's a great on-the-fly adjustment. If you don't have a lens that supports that the exp comp button is still easy and fast to access. With mirrorless you should be able to get at least 95% the way there just by seeing what you'll get before you even shoot.

But auto ISO (or auto anything) is always going to be 'fooled' by the light in the scene and doesn't account for the subject and/or what creativity you are aiming for.

 

[bjn70]

I shoot action with my Z6ii so I want to choose the shutter speed and aperture. I shoot autoISO and let the camera pick the ISO. It has worked out very well for me.

At least half the time with D750 and D810 I was using autoISO but usually with aperture priority and outdoors so autoISO really didn't have much to do.

 

[monte12345]

This is especially true with my Z50II. Because it doesn't have IBIS as soon as I mount the 50-250mm zoom it want to run the ISO high enough for a 1/2000 to 1/4000 shutter speed with the 1/2000 being at 50mm zoom. Yeah you can set the max limit but that just relegates the ISO to the max limit without taking in any consideration for the VR in the lens. Note I can shoot at 1/200 second with the lens set to 250mm so why does the camera insist on using the max limit to allow the use of shutter speed higher than what is needed.

That said if I am in limited light with a slower zoom I will use Auto ISO on occasion when I'm shooting in Manual. There are times when a bit of insurance is necessary.

On the Z5II / Zf twins this cameras are so freakishly good in low light I will run the Auto ISO "to the Moon". Since I do have the Zf with that wonderful ISO dial I don't use the Auto ISO very often but it is nice to have it available when needed.

PS; One thing that just bugs the heck out of me is that those ISO buttons on the "standard" cameras are too darned recessed. Just 0.030 to 0.045 of dome on those buttons would make them so much easier to use when holding the camera to your eye.

 

[Fabian Joya]

I use auto ISO, usually in aperture mode. But I probably should use manual mode more often. I use the control ring to adjust exposure compensation. I have it configured to use 2x shutter speed, max 6400 ISO. This is on a Z8 with IBIS. These settings ensure critical sharpness in pretty much every shot I take, except when using very long focal lengths.

 

[olyflyer]

I have the Nikon z 5 ii camera and shoot in auto iso. I’ve done this with previous Nikon cameras. So I wanted to try something different. I took auto iso off and set it manually. My photos seemed to turn out very nice. The setting I was using was manual. Do a lot of shooters just shoot with auto iso.

I shoot using Auto ISO and M most of the time with my Z7. I like to use Auto ISO and see no point in setting ISO manually unless I want something special or must use 100% manual controls.

Does the camera always get the correct exposure or is it touch and go. I will probably go back to auto iso since that’s what I normally use.

No, that is not possible. When the camera measures the light it can make "mistakes", believing that it is too dark or too bright. For example shooting against the sun, or in the dark with some strong spotlights in the image. In those situations (and some others) you need to control the ISO manually, otherwise the camera will get it wrong. There is no way for the camera to guess about your intentions, what is important for you, so some times you need to take control from the camera, otherwise the image subject will be over or underexposed.

 

[AlainCh2]

I have the Nikon z 5 ii camera and shoot in auto iso. I’ve done this with previous Nikon cameras. So I wanted to try something different. I took auto iso off and set it manually. My photos seemed to turn out very nice. The setting I was using was manual. Do a lot of shooters just shoot with auto iso. Does the camera always get the correct exposure or is it touch and go. I will probably go back to auto iso since that’s what I normally use.

Being back to photography after 20 years, directly from films, the best I've found in Digital Cameras is Auto-ISO.

I usually set Aperture to get DOF or grain as I like. My preferred range is f/8-14 when light is enough, and then I adapt Speed to get the best value: 100 or 400 ISO.

But that depends 100% on the subject, light, and the result I want in any specific situation... Landscape, Buildings, Street, Interiors ... even Day/Night, Sunny/Cloudy.

I keep a tab on the ISO value shown by the camera to know what it gets in the frame.
Sometimes I go in manual, because the frame gets a spot light inside, Sun, Lamps, Windows, Reflex... whatever ...but I do not do that very often

Otherwise, if I'm in Wildlife, Sport or People ... Speed is what drives my shots.

With buildings at night, I'm fine with 20.000 ISO 1/6-10 fully open,
if I cannot use a tripod. 90% of my shots are "instant" handheld.
Nowadays, I really don't care too much about high ISO, even during the day.
You feel safe with all the stuff you have around your Shots: PP, Camera software, different Sensors in different bodies as well.

In the film ERA, with the Exposition Table in your mind, you had nothing else to guide you to get the correct ISO, and nothing to do to change your rolls once shot.
I was often shooting double bodies, one roll 64 ISO, the other 200 ISO.



( mistakes like 600ISO, and you discover a burned roll once developed)

 

[Verkku]

Iso is not part of exposure