Attention all FUJI GFX users- AF shift issues when shutting down

[dbateman]

Thank you all for your valuable input. For now we will only stick to a dumb adapter, hoping Fuji can provide a real AF off switch via a MENU software option in a future update.

We will definitely not switch cameras or system, like the bellow version above since this would pervert the concept of a modern, slim compact 100MP camera.

For your use I was going to recommend the same Fujifilm 110mm manual focus tilt-shift lens Jim recommended. That seem like the perfect lens for your subjects. If too expensive, either the adapted Laowa 100mm 2x macro manual focus lens or the Pentax 645 120mm macro lens would work well.

Both manual focus only and can reach higher magnification than the Fujifilm lenses.

What I would like to see Fujifilm release is a 1x or better yet a 2x macro lens that works with their focus bracketing mode. Olympus shouldn't be the only first party manufacturer with a 2x macro lens.

 

[Rodenmg]

Hi fellow GFX users,

first of all please excuse my spelling and grammar errors, since I’m not a native English speaker-

We recently found out the hard way that the GFX line seems to exhibit a very strange behavior.
Producing at very hot temperatures (Arizona!) our GFX100S was constantly on the edge of overheating, throwing blind pixels and sometimes shutting down. We later discovered that we had a lot of out soft, of focus images thus the camera was set to manual. Camera was on a heavy tripod further secured with massive sandbags.
The lenses we used were the Fuji 23mm prime, Sigmas 12-24mm zoom via adapter and Canons EF 24-70mm II f2.8.
Placing a fan directly under the LCD display (slightly protruded from the body), plus and open battery tray door mitigated the situation slightly.

We witnessed the following behavior which is IMHO unacceptable for a professional camera:

When shutting down the camera, no matter forced or via the switch, the camera moves the lens focus to a resting position. At least tries. Some lenses like the Sigma zoom just slightly move focus, the Fuji own and the Canon (via adapter) get moved to infinity position.
Switching on the camera, the focus moves back to the last position, however layering the files afterwards always shows a pixel movement making it impossible for the postproduction team to just layer the exposures before and after the restart.
now comes the strangest part: the Sigma Primes via adapter we have (24+50mm), do not show this behavior they stay rock solid like a manual setting should.

We could verify the same behavior with a colleagues GFX, and the new GFX II

No other camera shows this behaviour. Manual means a fully controllable, non moving focus.
Maybe you can test it yourself with and without 3rd party AF lenses.
What motivation drove Fuji engineering to this decision and do you think this can be prevented by a software fix? And what is the best and most effective way to contact the responsible entities here?

You say you are using the Fuji GF23, a Sigma 12-24, and a Canon 24-74. And later you say this is for product photography of watches, jewelry, purses, etc. And you need the camera to maintain pixel level focus continuity through power on/off cycles.

I have to say I'm extremely confused and curious. What in the world are you doing?

 

[SrMi]

If I remember correctly, Jim has reported (can’t remember which body specifically) that there can be a shift in focus from shot to shot, in manual focus mode, even when the camera remains “on.” As I recall, it wasn’t much, but it wasn’t nothing.

Rand

Good memory, Rand!

Did you observe it on your X2D as well?

Never observed it by accident. Never specifically tested for it. In general, I don't trust FBW lenses to remain focused over long time periods.

I also refocus every time before taking a picture, except with fully MF lenses. I wonder if I can trust XCD lenses with an engaged MF clutch to keep the focus steady.

I don't think so. The lens is FBW even with the ring in manual focus position.

I believe XCD 45p is the only one without FBW (no clutch but mechanically coupled focus ring).

 

[JimKasson]

If I remember correctly, Jim has reported (can’t remember which body specifically) that there can be a shift in focus from shot to shot, in manual focus mode, even when the camera remains “on.” As I recall, it wasn’t much, but it wasn’t nothing.

Rand

Good memory, Rand!

Did you observe it on your X2D as well?

Never observed it by accident. Never specifically tested for it. In general, I don't trust FBW lenses to remain focused over long time periods.

I also refocus every time before taking a picture, except with fully MF lenses. I wonder if I can trust XCD lenses with an engaged MF clutch to keep the focus steady.

I don't think so. The lens is FBW even with the ring in manual focus position.

I believe XCD 45p is the only one without FBW (no clutch but mechanically coupled focus ring).

That could very well be. The lenses I have tested with the two-position focus rings are the 38V, 55V, and 90V.

 

[bobby350z]

Refocusing, even if precise leads to pixel differences between exposures as explained above. That doesn’t work in a replicable surrounding. No other camera does that.

i have a canon TS-E 17mm coming next week but i have my doubts

Share a little more about what kind of work you are doing and how “pixel differences” are negatively impacting the outcome. With your description of the setup and using sandbags, etc., it must be very exacting work that you are doing? Curious minds want to know, and it’s possible that if we knew more about the specifics, someone might have good advice for your use-case.

Rand

I was going to ask the same.

 

[bobby350z]

True but then I must say mirrorless/GFX only qualifies for semi professional use. A camera that doesn’t allow these basic steps like a true manual focus is a step back no matter how good the modern AF use qualify.

its time for Fuji to step up their game also concerning true professional support. A game of hiding through the ranks helps no one.

They want you to buy that 110mm TS.

 

[bobby350z]

True but then I must say mirrorless/GFX only qualifies for semi professional use. A camera that doesn’t allow these basic steps like a true manual focus is a step back no matter how good the modern AF use qualify.

its time for Fuji to step up their game also concerning true professional support. A game of hiding through the ranks helps no one.

You're asking for a huge amount of re-engineering. Your requirements (and mine) were never on the drawing board - and that goes for all mirrorless cameras - which are carried along on the same revolutionary wave.

The GFX line was designed to 'encourage up' enthusiast FF users and 'encourage down' serious pro's who where using big slow clunky gear. It was never going to be a top line camera. The cries go out, but it is!, it is! but it isn't, though for the most part it gets by pretty well.

Really, the only option is to use the equipment that fits your use better, and that's dSLRs, either FF or medium format. If you might be able try a Pentax 645Z you'll know instantly that is a camera designed for serious pro's, yet now it's 'old', so isn't going to get as much respect as the current bells and whistles brigade. But it's a masterpiece, ok it has a mirror, but it's the most well dampened mirror I've ever come across, incredible engineering and thought went into that camera - and that still remains true today.

I also use a Pentax K-1, in many ways better then my Pentax 645Z, and for sure better than my GFX 50S (-ok so it doesn't have IBIS). The D850 would also be my choice, if I didn't have a Pentax bias.

Otherwise if you can afford it, Phase One XF, it uses 'proper' manual focus lenses.

For now, get a dumb adapter for the GFX!

I think the scenario that the OP describes would be a great fit for a MILC body used behind a tech camera or with the GF 110 T/S lens. Then the FBW issue goes away.

True, true, and could be neat...

as long as you don't rip the bellows (I'm known to be rather care-free about my 'camera care'!), but a tech-camera with a GFX behind it, and manual glass in front, for jewellery, bags etc, could work well for OP if it doesn't seem too Frankenstein or overall manual with loads of flapping tilts and swings and knobs and rails and no auto aperture.

Or one can use Canon TSE lenses like 50mm, 90mm, 135mm with an adapter. They all work fine and a lot less cumbersome.

 

[Greg7579]

True but then I must say mirrorless/GFX only qualifies for semi professional use.

Gene..... Come on Man....

If this was two weeks ago, I probably would have posted a long rant as a retort to this comment, but since I'm mad at Fuji for not sending my GF30 after 10 months and because I know you are frustrated with this, I'm going to let you off the hook.

Besides Jim told me if I had to be nice for the whole month of September, which starts in 2 days....

I have only 2 more days before I have to start being really nice, so I'm tempted to launch into a rant here....

But you are forgiven.

Carry on, and I too at times have been frustrated with certain aspects of my long GFX shooting experience, especially over 4 years ago when my original GFX 100 was overheating in SE Asia and doing all kinds of weird stuff in the EVF as the focus point jumped around and the screen blacked out....

 

[GeneHack]

;P

next week I will receive my Canon TS-E 17mm, then we know more. Will post here. Cheers