20D vs 40D noise and sensitivity test

When you adjust the "brightness adjustment" in DPP, it appears to just add an offset (based on viewing the histogram display in the "RAW Adjustment Tab"). But that "offset histogram" is pushed over to the right, moving with respect to the tone curve which remains fixed. So the effect of the tone curve is applied differently too if you see what I mean.

Thus, if you view the RGB histogram (which shows the result of the conversion), the histogram is stretched as you increase this "brightness adjustment" on the RAW tab.

I only make adjustments on the RAW tab in DPP and then save the converted file and open it in Photoshop for other adjustments. But I don't need to make brightness adjustments of any kind at that point because I've done all of that with the RAW adjustments in DPP.

In the RAW adjustment tab of DPP, another very valuable tool is to simply grab and drag the white point and the black point right on the histogram itself.

To me, this is a very intuitive way to make adjustments to contrast and brightness level at the same time so I almost never use the "brightness adjustment" control in DPP. Instead, if I need to brighten a picture, I just drag the white point down as needed.

I think that a lot of people fail to realize that the white and black points can be moved in DPP, and that is what leads to them not liking it as well as other programs. For me, however, that ability to drag the white and black points, right on the histogram, is fantastic and is something I use all of the time.

I find making the adjustments right on the histogram just seems intuitive with respect to the math that's describing how the input data will be mapped to the output file. But it's a matter of personal preference, I think.

Still, if Canon would put visible "handles" on the white and black point lines so that it was obvious that you can drag the white and black points, I think they'd make a lot of new friends for the program. I can't help thinking that most people don't even realize that you can move the "ends" of the chart.

I like being able to make an adjustment on the RAW tab and then check the RGB tab to see what the "output" histogram looks like after that adjustment. It'd be neat if you could see both at the same time, though.

I still want someone to analyze the RAW data from this type of test to see what the actual RAW exposure difference is. I can't help but to think that the tone curve applied by DPP for the 40D shots is enough different to what it applies to 20D shots that this factor alone might be responsible for the apparent difference in brightness we see. So I hesitate to put too much faith in analysis of the overall brightness of the converted pictures.

But then again, this IS what we're getting for our output, using their software set to its defaults, so it may well be fair to say that the 40D is exposing about 0.5 EV lower than the 20D in this test.

Thanks for running that analysis on those.

I should try something similar on the full frames but I suspect I'd get the same results.

You should install and play with DPP. It's actually a very good RAW converter IMO and you'd be able to see the two histogram displays that it provides and see how it shows a 2 stop better available DR (on the RAW histogram) when you load up a 40D file than it does when you load up a 20D file. This is part of why I think the tone curves must be different.

The next thing I want to do is to try out the "highlight priority" mode and see if that opens up the "grayed out" upper two stops on the RAW histogram in DPP.

--
Jim H.
 
Is to look at two properly exposed images taken at the same aperture and shutter speed with iso adjusted to provide identical exposures.

To say that the 40D has the same or less noise at iso 1600 as the 30D is meaningless if I have to use a slower shutter speed or larger aperture to get proper exposure.

By using REI, camera manufacturers can now make apples to oranges comparisons to make their camera sound better than it is.
 
High Jim,

My 40D exposes about 1/3 to 1/2 stop darker than my 30D, too. Seems
to be a common trait of the 40D. Someone else in a different thread
also mentioned the same 1/3 stop difference in theirs. Thanks for
sharing the results of your controlled test. :o)
--
Cheers,

Bryan P.

OneDMarkTwoN, FortyD, ThirtyD, ASixThirty, ASixForty, ASevenTenIS
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29386469@N00/
http://blplhp.smugmug.com/

The best thing that could poke you in the eye....is your viewfinder.
Sounds like the old 350D/400D situation last year.
Just got my 40D and yet to test it but i have Noise Ninja ready.

Anyone tried doing a high ISO test with the built in NR on?
--
Dave.

Gallery @
http://davepearce.smugmug.com
 
Looking at the straight from camera crops, the 20D looks less noisier to my eyes.

But since we all do some post processing, adjusting exposure a notch to compensate on the 40D is no big deal I suppose.

--
Three generations of Canon Digital Photography at http://www.threewood.com
(S10, G2, EOS-20D)
 
High Jim,

My 40D exposes about 1/3 to 1/2 stop darker than my 30D, too. Seems
to be a common trait of the 40D. Someone else in a different thread
also mentioned the same 1/3 stop difference in theirs. Thanks for
sharing the results of your controlled test. :o)
--
Cheers,

Bryan P.

OneDMarkTwoN, FortyD, ThirtyD, ASixThirty, ASixForty, ASevenTenIS
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29386469@N00/
http://blplhp.smugmug.com/

The best thing that could poke you in the eye....is your viewfinder.
Sounds like the old 350D/400D situation last year.
Just got my 40D and yet to test it but i have Noise Ninja ready.
Hi Dave,

1/3 stop isn't bad actually. The 350D/400D was more like a 2/3 to 1 stop difference for alot of people, and most of them ended up returning their cameras to Canon for calibration.
Anyone tried doing a high ISO test with the built in NR on?
Not yet. Would look forward to your results, as well. :o)
--
Cheers,

Bryan P.

OneDMarkTwoN, FortyD, ThirtyD, ASixThirty, ASixForty, ASevenTenIS
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29386469@N00/
http://blplhp.smugmug.com/

The best thing that could poke you in the eye....is your viewfinder.
 
I think that one aspect keeps getting overlooked. The 'New 40D' includes in-camera NR which lowers the chroma noise. I think it is very important to make the test also adding the NR on. One may say this is unfair but it is one of the selling points of the 40D and was designed just for this. I would have liked to see how much of a difference it would ahve made in this case. It would have been interesting. I know I want to know when I get my 40D (whenever Canon Canada gets them I suppose) should I be leaving NR on or off and/or just at high ISO's etc.
--
Michael Kaplan
http://www.pbase.com/mkaplan
See my profile for equipment list
 
Thanks for the good test.

Lower sensor sensitivity and similar noise is precisely what we got when the 400D/XTi succeeded the 350D/XT. I would love to see a similarly careful test directly comparing 400D and 40D...
 
Jim

Thanks for taking the time to do, and share, these tests. Very
interesting.

The noise seems worse (chroma) in the 40D, unless the image is
brigthened by 1/2 stop as you have done. I am confused though.... I
thought if you increased the exposure of an image it increased the
noise (because you are effectively amplifying the signal that was
received by the sensor in the first place)?

I'm obviously wrong - but confused. Anyone help?

Thanks

Marcus
--
http://www.mbphotography.net
There is also another phenomenon here. We perceive relative differences more than absolute differences:

Lets say the average value is 5 (on a scale of 0 to 255) and we have some pixels that have a value of 15, then we perceive this as more noise than if the average value were say 150 and some pixels at 165.

The other reasons as to how we increase the brightness is also valid, but there is also the contribution of the way that the human visual system treats variations around a mean.
Hope this helps.
 
I think that one aspect keeps getting overlooked. The 'New 40D'
includes in-camera NR which lowers the chroma noise. I think it is
very important to make the test also adding the NR on. One may say
this is unfair but it is one of the selling points of the 40D and was
designed just for this. I would have liked to see how much of a
difference it would ahve made in this case. It would have been
interesting. I know I want to know when I get my 40D (whenever Canon
Canada gets them I suppose) should I be leaving NR on or off and/or
just at high ISO's etc.
I agree with you that it makes a big difference, and I have it in "my menu" so I can turn it on and off.

But one thing that's important to realize is this: If you turn it on, you'll only get maybe 6 shot bursts before the camera slows down. It must be doing some pretty major processing because it really changes the burst-length on the camera.
--
Michael Kaplan
http://www.pbase.com/mkaplan
See my profile for equipment list
--
http://www.pbase.com/stevegrillo , Equipment on profile page
 
...
The difference in sensitivity appears to be between 1/3 and 1/2 stop
when converted using DPP in this way but this does not take into
account possible differences in the "default" tone curve applied by
DPP for 40D versus 20D photos, so take this into consideration until
someone can analyze some RAW files for us.
...
Jim H.
Very helpful shots Jim. I was thinking if in DPP you checked the "Linear" box, wouldn't that eliminate the tone curve questions that people are having? You could create a curve in PS that is similar to a tone curve and apply it to each image.

Thanks for pioneering the way for the rest of us ;-).
--
--Matthew
 
It looks like a good test for sensitivity. IMHO it is better that canon is now rating their ISO at levels that correspond beter to the standard. This does make testing noise against the older cameras harder.

For noise tests, I am much more concerned about how it looks after pp in print. For a fair test the 20D looks like it needs to be set at 1/3 stop lower iso than the 40D. The 20D also looks like its metering exposes an image more. I'd like to see if the 40D does better at preserving highlights, or if this is just a different metering pattern.


I made this somewhat crude test in the following way:

I shot exposures of a white background illuminated consistently (we
hope) using a 20D and a 40D. The illumination was provided by a 48"
fluorescent fixture with two ancient Vita-Lite Power Twist bulbs
(rated at 5200 degrees Kelvin when they were new).

I used a slow shutter speed to reduce any possible effects of lamp
flicker at the mains frequency.

The EF-S 60mm macro was used for all exposures.

The lens was set to its closest focus yet the background was several
feet away to assure that the background was totally out of focus in
all shots.

No noise reduction was used in camera or out for both cameras.

All shots were made in RAW and converted to 16 bit TIFFs in DPP using
NO noise reduction and NO sharpening.

The white balance was set using the "click white balance" method for
each group of shots to try to get identical WB for every situation.

The difference in sensitivity appears to be between 1/3 and 1/2 stop
when converted using DPP in this way but this does not take into
account possible differences in the "default" tone curve applied by
DPP for 40D versus 20D photos, so take this into consideration until
someone can analyze some RAW files for us.

The DPP RAW Adjustment Tab histograms reflect something near to 1/3
of a stop difference, but it's very hard to judge accurately.

I then tried two different methods of bringing up the brightness of
the 40D shots to match the 20D shots and I ended up using 1/2 stop
for these "adjustments" even though this is less than perfect (as you
can see).

First, I simply used the brightness adjustment slider in DPP's RAW
tab to boost the original 40D exposures by 0.5 stops.

Second, I re-shot the exposures with the 40D using 1/2 stop brighter
apertures for each.

In all cases, the resulting photos were converted to TIFFs in DPP.
Each file was then opened in PSCS2, and a 250 X 250 pixel crop was
made. Those crops were then saved as TIFFs.

In addition, I also opened each of the "original" TIFFs in PSCS2 and
made a 277 X 277 pixel crop of each. Those crops were then resized
down to 250 X 250 pixels using PCSC2's Bicubic method. These are
noted as "Reduced". This downsizing is intended to account for the
extra pixels captured by the 40D versus the 20D.

Then a new file was created in PSCS2 and the crops were copied and
pasted into it and the legends added. This was then saved using the
highest quality JPG setting offered by PSCS2 (12).

I know that there are potentially a lot of flaws in this test, but
since people are curious about noise levels and relative sensitivity
of these cameras, I thought I'd throw this out there to give us
something to think about until a more formal and accurate evaluation
can be made by someone better equipped to perform the tests.

I'd love to see an analysis of RAW data from a similar test to see if
the actual captured values are lower for the 40D, or it what we see
is just a function of the tone curve applied by DPP when converting a
40D file versus a 20D file.

--
Jim H.
 
I did shoot another complete group with the in-camera high ISO NR enabled too. But to my eye, there was no improvement or difference. This is because all of these tests were conducted in RAW.

Thus, I believe that the in-camera high-ISO NR is ONLY applied to in-camera JPGs which I (and many others) never shoot.

To test the in-camera high-ISO NR, we'd need to shoot in JPG mode and then compare those JPGs. I have not done that. In fact, I have yet to shoot any shots with the 40D in anything but RAW mode.

To fit my usual workflow, I'd need to apply some of DPP's NR or perhaps that which is built into Photoshop because that's what I'd actually be using in the real world. For JPG shooters, they might be interested in seeing what the in-camera NR does, though. But once I figured out that it appears to do nothing for RAWs (which is actually what I expected), I had no reason to even include those shots in this test print.

I was really just trying to test the "native" noise of the camera and not test Canon's in-camera noise reduction.

Also, to properly test any software NR (and I consider this in-camera JPG-mode, high-ISO NR to be software NR), I believe we need to use actual photos with detail in them for a couple of reasons. First, detail in the shot will affect how the NR algorithms operate. Presumably they try to preserve detail yet smooth things in the - well - smooth areas of a shot. Second, we'd want to assess how good or bad the algorithms might be at preserving shot detail while still killing off visible noise.

A thought occurs to me, though. Perhaps if I use ZoomBrowser's RIT, an equivalent NR is available to that which the camera provides. If that's the case, I could simply process my same RAW shots through RIT with the NR on and off and we could compare them. In the past, RIT has provided mirror functionality to the in-camera JPG processing. I'll check to see if it's got that feature. If it does, that might be interesting.

I guess I am curious to see how the camera and RIT might do with NR. This probably is a selling point for people who shoot in JPG mode. But really, I think most folks, even if they do shoot in JPG mode, probably use an outboard NR program when they need it, so I sort of feel that in-camera software NR is superfluous for most of us. But that might be a silly attitude on my part.

If the in-camera NR is good, then for people who do shoot in JPG mode, it could be a great thing and well worth testing.

I have not run the new version of ZoomBrowser on my PC yet. I'll check it out and see if it's got the NR feature.

--
Jim H.
 
So Canon's moving their ISO sensitivities towards values that actually match standards? Great.
 
Just as they've adopted a nomenclature that allows them to basically state the sensitivity any way they wish, they're finally bringing their sensitivity into line with the rest of the world ;-)

--
Jim H.
 

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