New Firmware 1.0.1 out

[Linda Baldwin155255]

I'm new to DSLR, most recent camera was Nikon 990 usually in P&S modes. I do orchid photography for a client, and I've always had a bit of a problem with blown highlights in white orchids. I had to use exposure compensation when I shot them. I don't have access to those same flowers right now, but I figured a test on a white hosta in even brighter light than the orchids might be legitimate. Now here's what could make me all wrong. I've only recently (in the past week) started using manual mode rather than AV. However I know that I still needed to adjust my manual settings until the camera said I was one notch underexposed to avoid blowout in some situations. But in manual I don't use the camera's exposure compensation but rather adjust aperture and shutter speed.

To me it seems (almost definite) that the pics are less soft than
before and it doesn't has much blown highlights anymore.
--
Canon EOS 10D/BG-ED3/Canon 28-135 IS/Tamron 70-210 f2.8/Tamron MC7
2x extender/Cosina 19-35/Canon 50mm 1.8 mkII/Sigma 28-70EX f2.8
Metz MZ54-3
Visatec solo 304 kit

 

[Adam-T]

I took some test shots to see if there was any difference and thought - "Hey, these are a bit soft" and did the reset - the camera is back to normal again ..

I'm NOT saying that the new firmware makes the camera sharper, just that in the case with MY camera resetting it took it back to being as sharp as it was before I did the firmware update (Which I resetted as well and thought it made a difference) Both cases were with the 28-135IS on as it happens , maybe it resets the table for that lens or something as that lens was on last time when I got the camera ..

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

The No1 Dedicated 1D forum in the UK -------->

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[Kevin Vian]

I'd sure like to hear Canon's explanation of this phenomenon.

I'm sure that Pekka or someone actually proved it with before /
after shots when it was initially mentioned and it seems to have
worked again, if it hadn't my 10D would have been back to Canon as
the first shots were rather soft! . it's just fine again now

No, not me. For my first 10D reset had no effect at all and I have
not done it on the new one yet because everything works. Now we
have one question left: what does the reset do for GOOD cameras?

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

The No1 Dedicated 1D forum in the UK -------->

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--
Pekka
http://photography-on-the.net

--
http://www.pbase.com/kevinv

 

[werner]

See

;

and remove the ';' from the link!

 

[cybil]

Nice Canon..........thanx

 

[DavidP #28649]

It should be easy enough, I'd think, to confirm whether the settings before and after are the same.

Like I said, I'm not gonna argue with the fact that it seems to work on some cameras.

It's just that I don't understand what's going on.

David,

A possible explanation is that the programmed resets and the
defaults burned into the chip at the factory aren't the same on
some cameras, maybe all of them. An indication of this is if
removing the memory battery for awhile gets a different result than
resetting everything. I don't know if this is the correct
explanation but the "snake oil" resets work for my camera at least
to a degree too. It seems to get softer and softer focusing
sometimes until I am getting mostly garbage shots. Reset everything
and put my preferred settings back in just like it was before the
reset and I get a very noticeable higher percentage of acceptable
pictures. This has happened enough times to make a believer of me.
I strongly believe that we are resetting more than the defaults
that we can see on the menus.

--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

Yes, this is ON-TOPIC!

 

[Ashley Cheng]

It's midnight here in Hongkong, so can't comment on the blown highlight part.

As for the sharpness part, I don't notice any obvious difference. However, it's "plausible" that images might get sharper after a firmware change. Canon might have changed the degree of in-camera sharpening.

If Irbaldwin and rob van den broek try shooting raw, I guess they probably won't find any difference any more.

To me it seems (almost definite) that the pics are less soft than
before and it doesn't has much blown highlights anymore.
--
Canon EOS 10D/BG-ED3/Canon 28-135 IS/Tamron 70-210 f2.8/Tamron MC7
2x extender/Cosina 19-35/Canon 50mm 1.8 mkII/Sigma 28-70EX f2.8
Metz MZ54-3
Visatec solo 304 kit

 

[AYCL]

See

;

and remove the ';' from the link!

 

[Hu]

The 28-135 IS is my usual short lens too.

Speaking of this lens I discovered that the image drifted consistently down and right when I turned on the IS with the camera on my tripod a few days ago. Thought my ball had started slipping but it was rock solid and on target with the IS off. The IS on the 100-400 has never done this.

Hu

 

[DavidP #28649]

High ISO will indicate lower number of images, Low ISO will indicate a higher number of images.

file size too. After the firmware update i could only get 247
images in large jpeg fine on my 1 GB MD. I kept formatting the
card and messing with it. After clearing all settings I'm now back
to 425! wierd.

--
The Lowest Paid Concert Photographer Around
http://www.neonlightsimaging.com/artshow/final.htm
Photography -- just another word for compromise

Yes, this is ON-TOPIC!

 

[AYCL]

I took some test shots (with the 28-135IS) and despite beibng
focussed correctly they looked a bit on the soft side so I did the
reset (Clear settings) thing for both and it seems to have
sharpened back up again ..

It may seem like snake oil but something worth noting before all
the posts of "My 10D is soft after the formware update" come
flooding in..

--
Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

The No1 Dedicated 1D forum in the UK -------->

http://www.1dforum.co.uk/php/phpBB2/

 

[Kevin Vian]

You are not supposed to use IS when the camera is on a tripod. Canon says the IS will malfunction (at least on the consumer lenses - don't know about "L"s).

Kevin

The 28-135 IS is my usual short lens too.

Speaking of this lens I discovered that the image drifted
consistently down and right when I turned on the IS with the camera
on my tripod a few days ago. Thought my ball had started slipping
but it was rock solid and on target with the IS off. The IS on the
100-400 has never done this.

Hu

--
http://www.pbase.com/kevinv

 

[mlfrank]

right after I had posted my question, I saw your link - thanks again.....

michael

 

[cybil]

The gamma adjust is way to bright. The histogram can show left and screen looks great.

 

[RichW]

And since they haven't released the file for the first one it is a one way street. (

Rich

This would be a good idea for a rollback

 

[Hu]

It should be easy enough, I'd think, to confirm whether the
settings before and after are the same.

Like I said, I'm not gonna argue with the fact that it seems to
work on some cameras.

It's just that I don't understand what's going on.

Actually I don't know any way to confirm what I think is going on except second hand much like a doctor seeing the symptoms and reaching conclusions. everything that firmware controls on the camera isn't displayed. We are only shown how it sets a few mostly hardware settings on the menu. Everything else is subsurface like the seven to twelve levels that all the information on the Internet passes through each time we post a message. Even every time we hit a key the information is converted several times by the time it reaches the CPU. I'm thinking that we are resetting some of this subsurface processing. If the original firmware programming was the same as the reset the user has a "good" camera and a reset changes nothing. If it is different then a reset may work a little magic.

Of course the reset only works if the camera settings were wrong from the factory or drift as mine seem too. Confused? If not you are in the minority. I think there are probably at least a half-dozen different builds of the 10D on the street already and that is a large factor leading to all of the different opinions. We all have different levels of expertise with cameras adding to the confusion but I think a lot of the base problem is that when we compare our 10D's to each other's we are often comparing apples and oranges.

Hu

 

[Lars Johnsson]

Only copy the file to your card in your reader and put the card in the camera. You don't need any Canon software

You have to run the exe and unpack it first, then copy all files to
card.

See

;

and remove the ';' from the link!

--
Simon-Ph

--
Simon-Ph

--
JayCee
http://www.pbase.com/jaycee_photo

 

[dave nitsche]

The gamma adjust is way to bright. The histogram can show left and
screen looks great.

--
Dave
http://www.pbase.com/davenit/root

 

[adydula]

The gamma adjust is way to bright. The histogram can show left and
screen looks great.

I called Canon USA. The firmware (US) will be out tomorrow. It should be the same link.

The service rep was nice on the phone and told me he would NOT recommend flashing to this firmware if your camera is working ok, just for the sake of upgrading.

He did not know what this firmware fixes.

Also if you flash to this firmware, YOU CAN NOT FLASH BACK unless you send the camera back to a Canon servie center!!

BE FOREWARNED!

Alex

 

[Mel Boonstra]

Just installed firmware and am DEFINATLEY getting sharper images, and I was not unhappy before firmware, double bonus.