How Can I Beat Mobile Phones In This Scenario

[Vinc T]

I do party photography a couple times a year for free. Currently, I have two E-M1 Mark II, 8-18mm f2.8, and 35-100 f2.8.

From the beginning like 10 years ago with one umbrella and a table cloth taped to a wall, to having a backdrop stand and a few softboxes, to the current super easy setup with a 59x79" translucent scrim (i.e. 5-in-1) and a strobe (Godox AD400Pro) behind. All my photos are excellent comparing to using a cell phone because I have the lighting in my control at a dimly lit corner of a party.

For table shots, pointing my flash (Godox TT865II, no modifiers) to the ceiling or a wall using my mostly 9mm f2.8 seemed to work pretty well too.

However, when all of a sudden a lady or two just stand up between two tables and ask me to take a portrait of them right there, I would be in deep trouble. When I saw what they themselves captured with their phones in the same situation, I must say that I am not doing a better job (even after post processing).

Any advise would be much appreciated!

 

[Danielvr]

When I saw what they themselves captured with their phones in the same situation, I must say that I am not doing a better job (even after post processing).

To capture something a bit different (and better), I’d try using slow sync flash at ISO 800 with a wide-angle lens for dynamic, energetic-looking shots. Google “slow sync flash party” for some inspiration.

 

[Messier Object]

x

I must say that I am not doing a better job (even after post processing).

Any advise would be much appreciated!

Get a smartphone and use it in situations where it excels

Peter

 

[AshleyMC]

Get a smartphone and use it in situations where it excels

+1000

 

[michae1m]

For me, this is where the 45/1.8 or even (with more budget) one of the 1.2s would excel. For more reportage and individual portraits with ad hoc posing/backgrounds etc you want a fast lens, allow yourself a moment to shift position a bit (get that pillar growing out of their head moved). In more cramped situations the 25/20 range may be better but the 45 wins for FOV and more subject isolation.

 

[Sam Bennett]

For me, this is where the 45/1.8 or even (with more budget) one of the 1.2s would excel. For more reportage and individual portraits with ad hoc posing/backgrounds etc you want a fast lens, allow yourself a moment to shift position a bit (get that pillar growing out of their head moved). In more cramped situations the 25/20 range may be better but the 45 wins for FOV and more subject isolation.

I agree with this. In short, think of what you can offer that's truly different. If someone's doing a selfie with their phone, there's no escaping the fact that they'll be using a wide lens close to themselves. That means the potential for bulging noses, etc. One of the easiest things you can do is be further away. Whether that's with a fast prime or not is up to you, but beyond the "compression" you get with a longer focal length used further away you get shallow DoF which, again, will stand out with the photography people can do themselves.

That said, there's something special about selfies - so don't feel like you're in competition with them. You're doing something different, people are going to act differently looking at you than they do when it's just them and their friends, etc. You can't be everywhere, so don't stress about it.

 

[Danielvr]

I do party photography [..]

Seeing the different suggestions that are being made, it might be helpful if you explain what kind of parties you shoot. I guess it could be anything from a bunch of old ladies going out for tea and biscuits to a wild techno rave.

 

[AshleyMC]

I do party photography [..]

... it might be helpful if you explain what kind of parties you shoot. ...

Some sample photos would be helpful, but I think that is too much to ask in DPR forums.

 

[HicHic]

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4812687

If you can't beat em, join em!

 

[G1Houston]

However, when all of a sudden a lady or two just stand up between two tables and ask me to take a portrait of them right there, I would be in deep trouble. When I saw what they themselves captured with their phones in the same situation, I must say that I am not doing a better job (even after post processing).

Any advise would be much appreciated!

1. Learn to use an external flash on hot shoe with a defuser. I use Gary Fong Diffuser, M-mode, ISO at 400, manual flash. Before the event, adjust the flash outputs to get the look you want, then shoot away.

2. Shoot RAW. Slight over/underexposure (see (1) above) can be easily fixed in post.

2. Use a fast prime for more natural shallow depth of field look.

3. Use a wide angle fast prime for less distorted wide angle environmental portaits.

 

[Vinc T]

To capture something a bit different (and better), I’d try using slow sync flash at ISO 800 with a wide-angle lens for dynamic, energetic-looking shots. Google “slow sync flash party” for some inspiration.

Thank you! Yes, I would like something different! I'll definitely give it a try!

 

[Vinc T]

Get a smartphone and use it in situations where it excels

Peter

May be you are right!

 

[Vinc T]

For me, this is where the 45/1.8 or even (with more budget) one of the 1.2s would excel. For more reportage and individual portraits with ad hoc posing/backgrounds etc you want a fast lens, allow yourself a moment to shift position a bit (get that pillar growing out of their head moved). In more cramped situations the 25/20 range may be better but the 45 wins for FOV and more subject isolation.

You give me hope! I tried 75mm f1.8 and found the FL way too long indoor. I bought a Sigma 30mm f1.4 after that but have no chance of trying it yet. I will definitely bring it with me next time.

 

[Vinc T]

For me, this is where the 45/1.8 or even (with more budget) one of the 1.2s would excel. For more reportage and individual portraits with ad hoc posing/backgrounds etc you want a fast lens, allow yourself a moment to shift position a bit (get that pillar growing out of their head moved). In more cramped situations the 25/20 range may be better but the 45 wins for FOV and more subject isolation.

I agree with this. In short, think of what you can offer that's truly different. If someone's doing a selfie with their phone, there's no escaping the fact that they'll be using a wide lens close to themselves. That means the potential for bulging noses, etc. One of the easiest things you can do is be further away. Whether that's with a fast prime or not is up to you, but beyond the "compression" you get with a longer focal length used further away you get shallow DoF which, again, will stand out with the photography people can do themselves.

That said, there's something special about selfies - so don't feel like you're in competition with them. You're doing something different, people are going to act differently looking at you than they do when it's just them and their friends, etc. You can't be everywhere, so don't stress about it.

Those are valuable subtle details that I have never thought of! Thank you so much!

 

[Vinc T]

I do party photography [..]

Seeing the different suggestions that are being made, it might be helpful if you explain what kind of parties you shoot. I guess it could be anything from a bunch of old ladies going out for tea and biscuits to a wild techno rave.

Well, something like a birthday party in a community hall with 30-100 people, or company Christmas party of over 100. That is why I can always a tiny space to set up my "portrait studio."

 

[Vinc T]

1. Learn to use an external flash on hot shoe with a defuser. I use Gary Fong Diffuser, M-mode, ISO at 400, manual flash. Before the event, adjust the flash outputs to get the look you want, then shoot away.

2. Shoot RAW. Slight over/underexposure (see (1) above) can be easily fixed in post.

2. Use a fast prime for more natural shallow depth of field look.

3. Use a wide angle fast prime for less distorted wide angle environmental portaits.

Thank you for your advice! In particular, I hand hold my flash while moving around and have never tried using a modifier like Gary Fong's or MagMod. I relied all on bouncing it off a wall or ceiling. I will definitely check them out.

 

[john isaacs]

I do party photography a couple times a year for free. Currently, I have two E-M1 Mark II, 8-18mm f2.8, and 35-100 f2.8.

From the beginning like 10 years ago with one umbrella and a table cloth taped to a wall, to having a backdrop stand and a few softboxes, to the current super easy setup with a 59x79" translucent scrim (i.e. 5-in-1) and a strobe (Godox AD400Pro) behind. All my photos are excellent comparing to using a cell phone because I have the lighting in my control at a dimly lit corner of a party.

For table shots, pointing my flash (Godox TT865II, no modifiers) to the ceiling or a wall using my mostly 9mm f2.8 seemed to work pretty well too.

However, when all of a sudden a lady or two just stand up between two tables and ask me to take a portrait of them right there, I would be in deep trouble. When I saw what they themselves captured with their phones in the same situation, I must say that I am not doing a better job (even after post processing).

Any advise would be much appreciated!

I wonder what it is about their cell phone shots that you think is so much better than you can achieve with your camera?

I regularly shoot a wine supper event with just one camera. I have a table set up with a flash, diffuser, and reflector for pictures of the food, and an on-camera flash for people that can be quickly switched to control the other flash for food. And I have a custom setting for the food pictures that I can switch to using a function button. This lets me have separate settings for people and food (especially white balance, mode, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO).

I use a 12-40/2.8 for everything, but I can switch to a 9mm f/1.7 if I need a much wider angle but can't back up. I keep the aperture at f/2.8, and I don't have to adjust anything to switch the lens.

For people pictures, I expose for -1EV ambient by adjusting ISO and fill with flash.

Color is key in these situations, because the lighting at events can be very different than a flash produces. Often there is no good place to bounce a flash, so I use a modifier and bounce off of it. I gel my flash to match the lighting, and color balance to the gelled flash.

 

[G1Houston]

1. Learn to use an external flash on hot shoe with a defuser. I use Gary Fong Diffuser, M-mode, ISO at 400, manual flash. Before the event, adjust the flash outputs to get the look you want, then shoot away.

Thank you for your advice! In particular, I hand hold my flash while moving around and have never tried using a modifier like Gary Fong's or MagMod. I relied all on bouncing it off a wall or ceiling. I will definitely check them out.

There are times when there is no appropriate surface for the light to bounce. Plus when you bounce off the ceiling, downward light may cast a shadow on the face. You could reduce this by using a piece of white paper or aluminum foil to send some of the flash forward. Using his diffuser, or something similar, the light will come out straight in all directions and diffused/soft.

Since the diffuser will cut off a lot of the light, you need a pretty powerful flash. Manual flash is cheap, however, and compatible with all the camera brands.

 

[Sam Bennett]

1. Learn to use an external flash on hot shoe with a defuser. I use Gary Fong Diffuser, M-mode, ISO at 400, manual flash. Before the event, adjust the flash outputs to get the look you want, then shoot away.

Thank you for your advice! In particular, I hand hold my flash while moving around and have never tried using a modifier like Gary Fong's or MagMod. I relied all on bouncing it off a wall or ceiling. I will definitely check them out.

There are times when there is no appropriate surface for the light to bounce. Plus when you bounce off the ceiling, downward light may cast a shadow on the face. You could reduce this by using a piece of white paper or aluminum foil to send some of the flash forward. Using his diffuser, or something similar, the light will come out straight in all directions and diffused/soft.

Since the diffuser will cut off a lot of the light, you need a pretty powerful flash. Manual flash is cheap, however, and compatible with all the camera brands.

It's definitely good to have something like this and (more importantly) know how to use it, but the difference between bouncing and direct flash is always going to be night and day (pun intended?) since the "size" of the light source is fundamentally different. Yes, bouncing can create shadows but that's what our brains expect from a light source and is part of why it ends up looking more "natural" to us.

 

[Bassam Guy]

To capture something a bit different (and better), I’d try using slow sync flash at ISO 800 with a wide-angle lens for dynamic, energetic-looking shots. Google “slow sync flash party” for some inspiration.

Thank you! Yes, I would like something different! I'll definitely give it a try!

Be careful not to get the double exposure effect from moving subjects and/or too slow shutter. Practice first and then practice some more.

Hey, do you use "fill-in' flash mode? That usually includes ambient light.