Confused about focus modes...

[jonby]

If you're serious about landscape, then in my view, you need to simplify things as much as possible for yourself. Don't look to the camera to do things for you. Cameras are very bad at choosing where to focus in landscapes. For portraits, most people want to focus on an eye, so cameras can do that quite well, now that they recognize eyes. Not so for landscapes. So first of all, you need to learn to choose at what distance to set focus. Then you need a method of setting focus to that distance. You also need to know more about depth of field, how aperture affects this, and have an idea of your depth of field in different situations.

Calculating DoF is easy, and the principles are easily absorbed. I don't recall ever being in any doubt about the optimum focus distance.

That may be true for yourself. I was responding to the OP. Not clear that they understand how aperture affects DOF in the most basic ways, so I don't think they are ready for DOF tables or calculations.

As you start to get a feel for the above, all you need from your camera is a way of setting focus at the distance you want it. If there is something in the scene at the distance you want to set focus, you can use AF. If there isn't, you may be better using manual focus (the optimum focus distance in your first image isn't on the trees or on the landscape - it's somewhere between the two).

Most modern cameras aren't suited to manual focus.

Not sure that's true, but even if it is, it doesn't change the fact that in some scenes, where there is no subject matter at the optimum focus distance, the only way to focus at that distance is via manual focus. Makers could implement a system of setting focus between two AF-derived distances, but I'm not aware of any current implementations of that.

Sony AF is best left to those with experience of the brand.

I've set up several Sony cameras for landscape shooting. They work in much the same way as any other brand. The principles here are largely brand-agnostic.

 

[New Wrycuda]

Sony AF is best left to those with experience of the brand.

I've set up several Sony cameras for landscape shooting. They work in much the same way as any other brand. The principles here are largely brand-agnostic.

In a previous post, you replied…

AF w/ shutter = On

Not sure what this does - you should look it up. If this means AF is activated when half-pressing the shutter button then as mentioned above, personally I would turn it off and use another button.

This is a very powerful feature that can be used for a variety of functions, from direct focussing, or focus and recompose, as well as tracking moving subjects. This feature supersedes BBF on the Sony and although that option can be implemented, the menu system tends to discourage its use.

Combine that with live histogram and a conveniently located EC dial, both focus and exposure are never in question. There’s a comprehensive exposure-bracketing facility, but I’ve never had to use it.

I don’t wish to be antagonistic, but “turning off” a key function is to be discouraged.

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

If you're serious about landscape, then in my view, you need to simplify things as much as possible for yourself. Don't look to the camera to do things for you. Cameras are very bad at choosing where to focus in landscapes. For portraits, most people want to focus on an eye, so cameras can do that quite well, now that they recognize eyes. Not so for landscapes. So first of all, you need to learn to choose at what distance to set focus. Then you need a method of setting focus to that distance. You also need to know more about depth of field, how aperture affects this, and have an idea of your depth of field in different situations.

Calculating DoF is easy, and the principles are easily absorbed. I don't recall ever being in any doubt about the optimum focus distance.

That may be true for yourself. I was responding to the OP. Not clear that they understand how aperture affects DOF in the most basic ways, so I don't think they are ready for DOF tables or calculations.

When I was 12 years old, my parents gave me a Kodak Pony 135 camera. I read and understood the rather brief directions, which explained exposure, focus, and depth of field clearly. It was straightforward and not at all complicated. Although digital cameras are somewhat more complicated, maybe it's time that we assume that mere mortals can understand the basics if they are explained simply and correctly.

As you start to get a feel for the above, all you need from your camera is a way of setting focus at the distance you want it. If there is something in the scene at the distance you want to set focus, you can use AF. If there isn't, you may be better using manual focus (the optimum focus distance in your first image isn't on the trees or on the landscape - it's somewhere between the two).

Most modern cameras aren't suited to manual focus.

Not sure that's true, but even if it is, it doesn't change the fact that in some scenes, where there is no subject matter at the optimum focus distance, the only way to focus at that distance is via manual focus. Makers could implement a system of setting focus between two AF-derived distances, but I'm not aware of any current implementations of that.

Sony AF is best left to those with experience of the brand.

I've set up several Sony cameras for landscape shooting. They work in much the same way as any other brand. The principles here are largely brand-agnostic.

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

You just need to choose a relatively small focusing spot, and focus on the most relevant part of the image. Beyond that, all the other focusing modes and options are irrelevant to your use case. It's just a matter of convenience whether you want continuous focusing and whether you want the focusing spot to following the subject. Just be sure you don't accidentally focus on something closer than your intended subject, such as nearby branches. Read the camera directions if you haven't already done so, but don't get lost in the details, and don't fall for the totally automatic focusing mode(s).

Beyond that, someone should be able to give you a simple reference on depth of field and how to use a depth of field table or calculator. There is a pretty good one here. I don't think your camera is listed, but at the bottom of the camera list there is a choice of circle of confusion values (CoC). For your APS-C camera the usual choice would be 0.019 or 0.018 mm. If you wanted to choose a smaller value, maybe down to 0.01 mm or so, you might increase the sharpness throughout the depth of field--but don't choose too small a value or you're out of luck.

 

[JasonPNW]

Thanks, everyone, for the information. There is a lot to digest here. I am going back to square on and hope to post more landscape photo, hopefully with a better result.

I think part of the reason the landscape photo has so many errors is carelessness...plus a need to understand how to focus, among other things. I was on a trail, taking pictures of moving water prior to the landscape photo and I don't think I changed out of shutter priority and just snapped the landscape photo without actually thinking about basic settings like where my aperture was.

I am finding learning photography to be more difficult than I originally thought...which isn't a bad thing. There is so much that goes into a good composition and it seems like there are many things to pay attention. Most of the pictures I have taken so far are of indoor sports.

I hope to post more landscape photos that are improvements in the future.

thanks for all the well thought out responses it is appreciated.

 

[New Wrycuda]

Thanks, everyone, for the information. There is a lot to digest here. I am going back to square on and hope to post more landscape photo, hopefully with a better result.

I think part of the reason the landscape photo has so many errors is carelessness...plus a need to understand how to focus, among other things. I was on a trail, taking pictures of moving water prior to the landscape photo and I don't think I changed out of shutter priority and just snapped the landscape photo without actually thinking about basic settings like where my aperture was.

Using aperture priority is the key. Unless you are caught in an earthquake, the landscape usually doesn’t change much, so shutter speed is relatively unimportant.

There’s an open question in this thread about where (and how) to focus if there’s no obvious focus point mid-frame. There’s a school of thought that in that case, focussing on the distant mountains (virtually at infinity) is the best option, relying on DoF to include other features of the landscape. It’s a good idea to plug various parameters into a depth of field calculator and decide for yourself. Try DoFmaster.

I am finding learning photography to be more difficult than I originally thought...which isn't a bad thing. There is so much that goes into a good composition and it seems like there are many things to pay attention.

Composition doesn’t have much to do with shooting parameters, provided that you have the basics right. Read up on the “Rule of Thirds” and try not to include too much foreground in your shots. A friend toured Europe and brought back some excellent shots of bitumen and cobblestone footpaths.

Until you are entirely familiar with the technology, the Auto settings can be quite useful. One family member has no particular interest in the technology, so uses his Sony a5100 in Superior Auto mode, which works well for his style of shooting. In this mode, the camera assesses the scene and makes necessary adjustments. e.g. Detects back-lighting and increases the exposure.

Shooting Modes on Sony Alpha a5100 …

• Intelligent Auto (i)
• Superior Auto (i+)
• Program Auto (P)
• Aperture Priority (A)
• Shutter Priority (S)
• Manual Exposure (M)
• Movie (film icon)
• Sweep Panorama

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

There is so much that goes into a good composition and it seems like there are many things to pay attention. Most of the pictures I have taken so far are of indoor sports.

Don't get too hung up on compositional "rules". For every good picture that obeys a "rule", there's probably another one that defies it. As a rule of thumb, the more famous the rule or the more ardent the support, the more you should be suspicious. That probably holds for this rule too.

 

[JasonPNW]

Thank you New Wrycuda

 

[JasonPNW]

Thank You, appreciate the wisdom!

...and all the information from everyone. I hope to practice landscape photos and repost for improvement.

I got pretty good at taking indoor sports photos (volleyball), especially with the new Tamron lenses...they made all the difference.

I've taken very few landscape photos, but will work on understanding the settings for that...and for sure I will make sure I am in aperture priority mode.

Jason

 

[AnthonyL]

Thank You, appreciate the wisdom!

...and all the information from everyone. I hope to practice landscape photos and repost for improvement.

I got pretty good at taking indoor sports photos (volleyball), especially with the new Tamron lenses...they made all the difference.

I've taken very few landscape photos, but will work on understanding the settings for that...and for sure I will make sure I am in aperture priority mode.

Jason

You can take 'landscape' shots from your back door/garden/local park for practising and learning about the different modes. Just try to ensure you are doing it methodically so you are learning as you go along.

Good luck.

 

[teejaywhy]

Focus mode: Continuous AF

Just wanted to make sure it's clear that the previous suggestion of "focus and recompose" by holding half-press shutter button will NOT WORK with continuous AF.

Continuous AF is better for moving subjects. Landscapes don't move, so Single AF would be more appropriate, necessary even for focus and recompose technique.

 

[New Wrycuda]

Focus mode: Continuous AF

Just wanted to make sure it's clear that the previous suggestion of "focus and recompose" by holding half-press shutter button will NOT WORK with continuous AF.

Works with Sony cameras if you have "Locked On" to a subject and the AF maintains focus on that subject as you recompose.

Also known as "Tracking", and is fine for static subjects as well as moving subjects. I use that mode all the time for portraits against landscape as well as sports shooting.

Haven't you seen demonstrations of Eye-AF in action?

What do you think "continuous" means?