It looks like chromatic aberrations. Various software can detect and improve without affecting the rest of the picture. Hopefully, you shot RAW, as there is are more options to fix it well. Generally, it is under a "Lens Correction" menu. Photoshop has lens correction options, but I would prefer using DxO PL5. Search for "how to fix lens aberrations," and you will get many tutorials.I am trying to learn more so I do not want to use the wrong terms here. Is the purple and green tinted area there if I had looked closer in real world or is this like an aberration? If it is how do I avoid it? Or is it like a one click fix in photoshop?
Thanks!
The way it's red where its just going out of focus close to the camera and green where the background is just going out of focus looks like longitudinal chromatic aberration. I think Canon's DPP4 calls it 'color blur'; it's a classic fault of fast long lenses used wide open, and difficult to correct, though Canon's Digital Lens Optimizer (DLO) makes a decent stab at it for Canon lenses in camera or within DPP4. Easier to avoid if you stop down a bit, get further from the background and use less contrasty lighting, but most of that's the opposite of what you were trying to do there. Or use a super expensive fluorite and/or apochromatic lens.I am trying to learn more so I do not want to use the wrong terms here. Is the purple and green tinted area there if I had looked closer in real world or is this like an aberration? If it is how do I avoid it? Or is it like a one click fix in photoshop?
Thanks!
There is no such thing as a true APO design for a lens with focusing in it. It's impossible. A telescope can be made APO because it works at a single focal length. If anything moves inside it will be off slightly, end of story. That is why zooms are worse than primes, more elements moving around = more fluctuations in acuity and aberrations.The way it's red where its just going out of focus close to the camera and green where the background is just going out of focus looks like longitudinal chromatic aberration. I think Canon's DPP4 calls it 'color blur'; it's a classic fault of fast long lenses used wide open, and difficult to correct, though Canon's Digital Lens Optimizer (DLO) makes a decent stab at it for Canon lenses in camera or within DPP4. Easier to avoid if you stop down a bit, get further from the background and use less contrasty lighting, but most of that's the opposite of what you were trying to do there. Or use a super expensive fluorite and/or apochromatic lens.I am trying to learn more so I do not want to use the wrong terms here. Is the purple and green tinted area there if I had looked closer in real world or is this like an aberration? If it is how do I avoid it? Or is it like a one click fix in photoshop?
Thanks!
I thought control of CA was one of the features of the expensive RF 50 f/1.2 used by the OP. Did it just limited CA effect?There is no such thing as a true APO design for a lens with focusing in it. It's impossible. A telescope can be made APO because it works at a single focal length. If anything moves inside it will be off slightly, end of story. That is why zooms are worse than primes, more elements moving around = more fluctuations in acuity and aberrations.The way it's red where its just going out of focus close to the camera and green where the background is just going out of focus looks like longitudinal chromatic aberration. I think Canon's DPP4 calls it 'color blur'; it's a classic fault of fast long lenses used wide open, and difficult to correct, though Canon's Digital Lens Optimizer (DLO) makes a decent stab at it for Canon lenses in camera or within DPP4. Easier to avoid if you stop down a bit, get further from the background and use less contrasty lighting, but most of that's the opposite of what you were trying to do there. Or use a super expensive fluorite and/or apochromatic lens.I am trying to learn more so I do not want to use the wrong terms here. Is the purple and green tinted area there if I had looked closer in real world or is this like an aberration? If it is how do I avoid it? Or is it like a one click fix in photoshop?
Thanks!
It wouldn't surprise me if he could retake the photo at a different distance and show no LCA whatsoever.
As for APO designations on consumer lenses, it's all wholly untrue. Not even fluorite lenses are 100% APO. That is why Canon has never ever put "APO" on a lens even when they do use fluorite.
All modern lenses "feature" control of CA. Compared to the old EF 50mm the new one is much better.I thought control of CA was one of the features of the expensive RF 50 f/1.2 used by the OP. Did it just limited CA effect?There is no such thing as a true APO design for a lens with focusing in it. It's impossible. A telescope can be made APO because it works at a single focal length. If anything moves inside it will be off slightly, end of story. That is why zooms are worse than primes, more elements moving around = more fluctuations in acuity and aberrations.The way it's red where its just going out of focus close to the camera and green where the background is just going out of focus looks like longitudinal chromatic aberration. I think Canon's DPP4 calls it 'color blur'; it's a classic fault of fast long lenses used wide open, and difficult to correct, though Canon's Digital Lens Optimizer (DLO) makes a decent stab at it for Canon lenses in camera or within DPP4. Easier to avoid if you stop down a bit, get further from the background and use less contrasty lighting, but most of that's the opposite of what you were trying to do there. Or use a super expensive fluorite and/or apochromatic lens.I am trying to learn more so I do not want to use the wrong terms here. Is the purple and green tinted area there if I had looked closer in real world or is this like an aberration? If it is how do I avoid it? Or is it like a one click fix in photoshop?
Thanks!
It wouldn't surprise me if he could retake the photo at a different distance and show no LCA whatsoever.
As for APO designations on consumer lenses, it's all wholly untrue. Not even fluorite lenses are 100% APO. That is why Canon has never ever put "APO" on a lens even when they do use fluorite.
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