Flashpoint Automation on a Vintage Camera

[Barlowephoto]

In the old (film) days many professional photographers used to take Polaroid proofs.

Do the same with your digital camera. If you use a trigger with the TCM feature when you switch to manual mode (after you have your proof) it will convert the TTL settings and you can now connect the trigger to your film camera and shoot.

If something changes, switch to the TTL camera and take another proof. Never tried this setup but I believe it will work fine if you have lenses with similar apertures on both cameras.

Now, this is intriguing. I was one of those old pro's back in the 80's who shot Polaroids with my 4x5 and 8x 10 monorails. I'm very familiar with the ol' switcheroo ( "roids" to film ).

So what you're saying then, is the Flashpoint Trigger Module, that sits in the Digital camera's hotshoe, will create the proper ratio. I can look at the LCD on the back of my Nikon and adjust, till it's perfect within 1/10th of a stop.

Make sure that your Nikon is using the same aperture and ISO as the Rollei, of course.

Then take the Flashpoint Trigger Module off the Nikon, and transfer it to my 1950's Rollei , and plug it into the camera's PC sync Connector?

Or, as I said in my earlier answer, just use two separate transmitters. Have one XPro on the Nikon to set the lights with TTL, use a second one, with the SHOOT C.Fn set to APP cabled to the Rollei to trip the lights without changing the power settings. You probably wouldn't even need to use TCM to lock the settings down.

The SHOOT C.Fn on an XPro/X2T/R2 Pro II transmitter controls how the lights behave when shared between multiple transmitters. There are three settings: single shooter (one head icon), multiple shooters (three heads) and APP. Single shooter tells the transmitter to push out any settings changes any time there's been a change on the transmitter. This saves energy, but can cause confusion if there are multiple shooters sharing the same lights, and can leave one shooter with the wrong settings. So the multiple-shooter mode pushes out the settings with every frame taken, so settings are always overwritten with what's on the transmitter. The APP mode, however, tells the transmitter not to overwrite the last settings on the lights and to just send the sync signal, so you can, say, use one transmitter (or the smartphone app with a bluetooth capable transmitter like the A1, R2 Pro II, or X2T) to set the power, but have an on-camera transmitter fire the flashes without disturbing those settings.

Are we all talking about this device, to make sure I'm on the same page.

So if I buy 2 of these,....I'm set!?

 

[kli]

... just use two separate transmitters. Have one XPro on the Nikon to set the lights with TTL, use a second one, with the SHOOT C.Fn set to APP cabled to the Rollei to trip the lights without changing the power settings....

Are we all talking about this device [Flashpoint R2 Pro II], to make sure I'm on the same page.

So if I buy 2 of these,....I'm set!?

Uh. Sure?

Since you said you're using Flashpoint radio triggering in your original post, I assume already have one transmitter unit. Is that wrong? You only need to get a second one: Xpro, R2 Pro II, or X2T all have the SHOOT C.Fn for use on the camera (the X1T does as well, it's just more hidden and harder to use).

Is it possible you haven't been using the Flashpoint radio system at all, but the Nikon "smart" optical CLS system instead? Godox's TT685 and V860 II can both be set into "smart" optical commander/slave modes, as well as Godox radio master/slave modes. The key is the icon in the upper left corner of the LCD. If it's the lightning bolt, you're using smart optical triggering. If it's a radio antenna/lollipop, then you're using Godox's radio.

I ask, because TTL group ratio settings are a Nikon/Canon only thing. Godox radio triggers don't have the ability to set A:B group ratios the way the proprietary "smart" optical systems (and Profoto Air triggers) do. I think you'll have to use TTL groups with FEC settings to accomplish something similar. E.g., A:B of 4:1 would mean Group A in TTL 0 FEC, and Group B in TTL -2EV.

It's one of the things I wish Godox would add.

 

[Guillermo Shashte]

These come with free shipping, I would get only one, learn how to use it and get a second one only if I like how it works and feel a second one will make it easier.

If you want to use a second trigger in "dumb" mode, you may consider the Flashpoint R2 Mark II:

https://www.adorama.com/fprrr2tnii.html

It seems the Flashpoint R2 Single Pin Transceiver can also be used in dumb mode.

https://www.adorama.com/fprrr2spt.html

Flashpoint R2 SP manual:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiHqfOV5aDsAhVRsp4KHc4vDT4QFjAAegQIAxAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fcol%2FproductManuals%2FFPRRR2SPT.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1Qc1Xo7GeI1PvJ4bZaeMlk

 

[Barlowephoto]

... just use two separate transmitters. Have one XPro on the Nikon to set the lights with TTL, use a second one, with the SHOOT C.Fn set to APP cabled to the Rollei to trip the lights without changing the power settings....

Are we all talking about this device [Flashpoint R2 Pro II], to make sure I'm on the same page.

So if I buy 2 of these,....I'm set!?

Uh. Sure?

Since you said you're using Flashpoint radio triggering in your original post, I assume already have one transmitter unit. Is that wrong? You only need to get a second one: Xpro, R2 Pro II, or X2T all have the SHOOT C.Fn for use on the camera (the X1T does as well, it's just more hidden and harder to use).

Not everyone buys the trigger, I didn't. I own 3 of their V860 II Zoom LI-ion speedlights for Nikon . ( All three have built-in transceivers.)

SO, all I have to do, is go buy a single controller ? Is that correct/ ( Or should it be two )> By the way, I hate the button layout, very counter intuitive. I've heard the controller is better?

 

[tugwilson]

Not everyone buys the trigger, I didn't. I own 3 of their V860 II Zoom LI-ion speedlights for Nikon . ( All three have built-in transceivers.)

SO, all I have to do, is go buy a single controller ? Is that correct/ ( Or should it be two )> By the way, I hate the button layout, very counter intuitive. I've heard the controller is better?

You need one controller if you put that controller on the camera and set it in APP mode and then use one of your V860II hand held to set the levels and fire them for metering. I think that would be a bit awkward.

There are two alternatives with that controller.

You can install the Godox App on your smartphone and set the power levels using the controller on the camera via Bluetooth.

You can buy a second controller. The two controllers don't have to be the same type but should not be the Flashpoint R2 Single Pin Transceiver.

 

[Barlowephoto]

Not everyone buys the trigger, I didn't. I own 3 of their V860 II Zoom LI-ion speedlights for Nikon . ( All three have built-in transceivers.)

SO, all I have to do, is go buy a single controller ? Is that correct/ ( Or should it be two )> By the way, I hate the button layout, very counter intuitive. I've heard the controller is better?

You need one controller if you put that controller on the camera and set it in APP mode and then use one of your V860II hand held to set the levels and fire them for metering. I think that would be a bit awkward.

There are two alternatives with that controller.

You can install the Godox App on your smartphone and set the power levels using the controller on the camera via Bluetooth.

You can buy a second controller. The two controllers don't have to be the same type but should not be the Flashpoint R2 Single Pin Transceiver.

Ahhh, Thank you tugwilson, now i know what path to take. All my friends here, are great- Thank you everyone for their valuable assistance> Best Regards Barlowephoto