Fixed my own problem. If you press the "OK" button in live view, the exposure changes. I am not sure of the purpose of this change with the OK button.
Same problem - and solution. Live View on both my Nikon D850 and 750 is still a step behind what I am used to with Canon cameras. But superior IQ made the transition worth it
Exposure simulation. Did you also notice that changing the shutter speed and/or ISO changed the brightness? I did that with my D810 last night.
I'll bet that's why he asked his question prior to the event.
An amazing shoot. Can you share your mounting and camera settings?Exposure simulation. Did you also notice that changing the shutter speed and/or ISO changed the brightness? I did that with my D810 last night.
Exposure was in manual mode, with bracketing, 'cuz there's only so far you can trust a histogram that's derived from the embedded jpg in a raw file.
The brighter edge of the moon even at the darkest moment was always dead easy for the CDAF system.
I only wanted to use the live view for manual focusing. I could not accomplish this until I discussed how the "OK" button functioned.
Sorry about your foggy experience.. You should see my settings if you put the cursor in the picture frame. My setup looks like this:An amazing shoot. Can you share your mounting and camera settings?Exposure simulation. Did you also notice that changing the shutter speed and/or ISO changed the brightness? I did that with my D810 last night.
Exposure was in manual mode, with bracketing, 'cuz there's only so far you can trust a histogram that's derived from the embedded jpg in a raw file.
The brighter edge of the moon even at the darkest moment was always dead easy for the CDAF system.
I made a rookie mistake last night. I went out and took some practice shots which looked ok. I came back in after the practice shots and then went back out when the moon was red. Turns out since the temperature was below 0°F, the lens fogged up when I came inside. When I came out the second time the lens frosted.
I have a D810 and in live view, this did not work. Only by changing the aperture could I tamp down that overly-bright live-view image. I will remember the "ok button" suggestion from another poster on this thread though.
The intention was to use Live View for fine focus - not judging any of things you mentioned.
Thank you! The exif got stripped from this copy. This was taken with a 300mm f/2.8 VR-II, no TC. Wide open at 2.8, 1/3 second, 400 ISO. Locked down on a gimbal. EFCS (therefore Mirror Up drive setting) with 2 second exposure delay. Anything longer than 1/3 second trailed the stars.An amazing shoot. Can you share your mounting and camera settings?
Always a hassle. Quite late when I brought my camera in I realized that I should have capped the lens first. I raced to the coat closet and covered everything with a fleece jacket which was enough to prevent some air circulation. That was sufficient protection.
Here's a trick from when I engaged in all night astro photo sessions. The lens loses a lot of heat to outer space by radiation. If you had an IR thermometer you could get readings in the negative double digits. Behind that cold atmosphere is deep space at -270°C. In some sessions I would occasionally frost over the front element on my refractor telescope. I could defrost it in about 10 minutes by pointing it down at the Earth. Doing so occasionally when you have a few minutes of downtime between shots can keep the frost away for quite a while.
My camera was set to Manual exposure mode and fixed ISO; maybe there was some difference in your settings?
Spotmeter for focusing?
