How do you guys keep vertical lines vertical?

[curiouspeter]

I love my new used X-Pro1, but my biggest complaint is the 1-axis level gauge.

I was used to the two-axis gauge on my OM-D and now I end up having to do perspective correction on practically every picture.

Is there a trick? I am already using the composition grid. My most-used lens is the 16mm.

 

[Optimus Prime Lens]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

 

[chimphappyhour]

Yup, old school eyeball it against any lines you have in the viewfinder.

 

[hankse]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

Yes, the gridlines are helpful. The X-H1 has electronic level with two axis, a little like the virtual horisont in an airplane. The X-T3 might have it too, but I've seen no manual out there yet.

 

[Bobo Hodls]

I love my new used X-Pro1, but my biggest complaint is the 1-axis level gauge.

I was used to the two-axis gauge on my OM-D and now I end up having to do perspective correction on practically every picture.

Is there a trick? I am already using the composition grid. My most-used lens is the 16mm.

Even though I have a grid set up, other evening I found by mistake the focus point grid was most useful (XP2) for finding level on the scene.

I don't belabor level/perspective being perfect, however, that's one of the quicker developing tasks. And while I prefer getting horizontal level right, I often shoot knowing perspective correction will be required. Do anything enough and it's mindlessly easy. If I have other exposures of the same composition then copy/stamp to the rescue.

 

[CeeDave]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

Yes, the gridlines are helpful. The X-H1 has electronic level with two axis, a little like the virtual horisont in an airplane. The X-T3 might have it too, but I've seen no manual out there yet.

I, too, use the grid lines. I also use the artificial horizon, although the absence of pitch info in most cameras is unfortunate. The horizon also is not sensitive enough, in my opinion, it seems to need a better sensor (I assume it uses an accelerometer?).

I wonder if Fuji could use its new fast processor with a grid of focus points on the well-covered sensor to compute three-axis orientation, that is, “are you looking straight at the wall (in azimuth or yaw), horizontally (pitch), and level right to left (roll)”? That would be cool.

In any event, a more accurate two-axis level (pitch and roll) would be helpful.

Edited to add: the fast processor and sensor readout might also be used to implement something like peaking, but keyed to highlight lines that are (nearly perfectly) horizontal and/or vertical. A bit exotic, I know, but it is something ML could do and DSLRs could only do in live view. On the other hand, I’d rather see live RAW RGB histograms with live blinkies...

--
Chris
Selected photos at https://500px.com/ceedave
A couple of Fuji cameras and assorted X-mount and adapted primes

 

[Optimus Prime Lens]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

Yes, the gridlines are helpful. The X-H1 has electronic level with two axis, a little like the virtual horisont in an airplane. The X-T3 might have it too, but I've seen no manual out there yet.

I found the horizon indicator 'disappears' when I want to take a photo of say a building above my head. As I lift the camera out in front of me, and point upwards, I get so far and then the line goes. Does 'two axis' take care of this?

 

[markusw]

I try to use a tripod for critical Shootings, and check careful on the display or even on a PC.

 

[hankse]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

Yes, the gridlines are helpful. The X-H1 has electronic level with two axis, a little like the virtual horisont in an airplane. The X-T3 might have it too, but I've seen no manual out there yet.

I found the horizon indicator 'disappears' when I want to take a photo of say a building above my head. As I lift the camera out in front of me, and point upwards, I get so far and then the line goes. Does 'two axis' take care of this?

No they both disapear on the X-H1 at a certain angle. There are 8 markings for each direction for the line indicating how much one tilts the camera up or down, the sixth marking being a little longer. I guess each mark represents 6 degrees so at about 48 degrees the lines go away, looks reasonable when I estimate the angle by eyesight. Not a big issue for me.

 

[Optimus Prime Lens]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

Yes, the gridlines are helpful. The X-H1 has electronic level with two axis, a little like the virtual horisont in an airplane. The X-T3 might have it too, but I've seen no manual out there yet.

I found the horizon indicator 'disappears' when I want to take a photo of say a building above my head. As I lift the camera out in front of me, and point upwards, I get so far and then the line goes. Does 'two axis' take care of this?

No they both disapear on the X-H1 at a certain angle. There are 8 markings for each direction for the line indicating how much one tilts the camera up or down, the sixth marking being a little longer. I guess each mark represents 6 degrees so at about 48 degrees the lines go away, looks reasonable when I estimate the angle by eyesight. Not a big issue for me.

Indeed. Thanks for the info. Most appreciated.

 

[imnotmarvin]

One thing to keep in mind with vertical lines, especially as focal lenghts get wider, is to shoot with your lens flat. As you point your lens up or down you introduce/exaggerate converging verticals. It's not always possible depending on composition but the flatter you can keep your lens relative to the surface the vertical is rising from, the straighter your verticals will be.

 

[jayarrG9]

Verticals are a requirement for real estate photogs. I use a geared head for precise adjustments, a manfrotto 410.

A cheap alternative would be a bubble level that fits in your hot shoe,

 

[BklynBill]

I have an X-E3 so just a one way level, which, as far as I can see, isn't that accurate. So, as others here do, I use the frame lines and the level to get it as best I can(without fiddling forever only to miss the shot) and then to Lightroom to straighten. The less correction Lightroom has to do, the better for the overall quality of your image. Of course, sometimes Lightroom can use the wrong lines determining straightness and you end up with something hilarious(that is a rare occurrence though). Obviously, this is only for the shots that require straight lines.

 

[ikaika777]

I use the grid and the level.

 

[lélé777004]

I love my new used X-Pro1, but my biggest complaint is the 1-axis level gauge.

I was used to the two-axis gauge on my OM-D and now I end up having to do perspective correction on practically every picture.

Is there a trick? I am already using the composition grid. My most-used lens is the 16mm.

Tilt & shift lens w/ adapter.

 

[Vermont3133]

One thing to keep in mind with vertical lines, especially as focal lenghts get wider, is to shoot with your lens flat. As you point your lens up or down you introduce/exaggerate converging verticals. It's not always possible depending on composition but the flatter you can keep your lens relative to the surface the vertical is rising from, the straighter your verticals will be.

That's very true.

However, with a WA lens it often means an incredibly boring foreground and no sky.

So a modest upward tilt [that can be 'transformed' in PP] can often produce a more interesting shot.

Fixing verticals is one of the first and easiest processing tasks I do.

500px

500px.com

 

[Fezhat]

I joined the flat earth society and became a convert since then I have never had a problem.

 

[MarcosV]

I love my new used X-Pro1, but my biggest complaint is the 1-axis level gauge.

I was used to the two-axis gauge on my OM-D and now I end up having to do perspective correction on practically every picture.

Is there a trick? I am already using the composition grid. My most-used lens is the 16mm.

As others have said: level/lines and a lot of practice. You got to build up self-awareness so that you naturally check for this every time, right before tripping the shutter.

I also do like the two-axis levels you see in other cameras; but, at least you got one level.

 

[Bobo Hodls]

I joined the flat earth society and became a convert since then I have never had a problem.

Got to admire anyone that doesn't fool around, just takes care of business and moves on.

Respect

 

[curiouspeter]

Thanks for your advice.

I will use more grid lines. Looks like perspective correction is unavoidable, but minimizing the amount of correction needed can retain better image quality.

That said, I would seriously consider getting the future X-Pro3 if it is to have a two-axis gauge. It can't be that hard.