How do you guys keep vertical lines vertical?

[nikkor35f2]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

frame w camera perpendicular to the ground. to adjust hieght of shot, stand or squat while keeping camera perpendicular to the ground. dont adjust shot angle b tiltling, only by lowering or raising camera via body position,.

 

[DP13Photo]

I am very picky about this. I don't like the Fuji level that you can use in the EVF or the LCD like I do with my Sony a7 so I don't use it but I did for a while.

I basically pay attention, especially to vertical or horizontal lines that I know are supposed to be that way, buildings, lamp posts, waterscapes, and horizons...particularly near the middle of the frame. Wide angle lenses tend to make objects appear tilted near the edges so I always try to find something near the center.

I also fix in PP if I was unable to achieve desired results.

 

[Truman Prevatt]

I am very picky about this. I don't like the Fuji level that you can use in the EVF or the LCD like I do with my Sony a7 so I don't use it but I did for a while.

I basically pay attention, especially to vertical or horizontal lines that I know are supposed to be that way, buildings, lamp posts, waterscapes, and horizons...particularly near the middle of the frame. Wide angle lenses tend to make objects appear tilted near the edges so I always try to find something near the center.

I also fix in PP if I was unable to achieve desired results.

It's about planes. In a plane that is not perpendicular to the lens axis - there will be perspective distortion. Producing two dimensional images with a camera is described by projective geometry. Wide angle lenses exacerbate that issue. Keystoning is one of the most common perspective issue.

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en.wikipedia.org

As far as level - you have to first identify what is level. The level lines are just that level in the earth's gradational field. That may or may not be the best orientation depending on other perspective issues. A level line with a grid might be helpful but again when you look at the image it might not be the best choice for composition.

I do not like these types of perspective issues. Vertical lines should be vertical and parallel lines should be parallel. However, the traditional way to insure that is with camera movements that allow the changing of the image plane. With a fixed lens camera that is not possible and tilt shift adaptors can only do so much because of the limitations of image circle. BTW large image circle to support camera movements is one of the big reasons for their high cost.

My solution is a good imaging editing package. A package that allows you to correct for perspective distortion and relieves shots I find indispensable. Unfortunately not many of the less expensive packages have good support to fix geometric distortion - Which is the reason I use Capture 1. DXO Photolab is also good but does not support Fuji raw but I can export a Tiff and use DXO.

 

[curiouspeter]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

frame w camera perpendicular to the ground. to adjust hieght of shot, stand or squat while keeping camera perpendicular to the ground. dont adjust shot angle b tiltling, only by lowering or raising camera via body position,.

 

[curiouspeter]

I am very picky about this. I don't like the Fuji level that you can use in the EVF or the LCD like I do with my Sony a7 so I don't use it but I did for a while.

I basically pay attention, especially to vertical or horizontal lines that I know are supposed to be that way, buildings, lamp posts, waterscapes, and horizons...particularly near the middle of the frame. Wide angle lenses tend to make objects appear tilted near the edges so I always try to find something near the center.

I also fix in PP if I was unable to achieve desired results.

It's about planes. In a plane that is not perpendicular to the lens axis - there will be perspective distortion. Producing two dimensional images with a camera is described by projective geometry. Wide angle lenses exacerbate that issue. Keystoning is one of the most common perspective issue.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keystone_effect

As far as level - you have to first identify what is level. The level lines are just that level in the earth's gradational field. That may or may not be the best orientation depending on other perspective issues. A level line with a grid might be helpful but again when you look at the image it might not be the best choice for composition.

I do not like these types of perspective issues. Vertical lines should be vertical and parallel lines should be parallel. However, the traditional way to insure that is with camera movements that allow the changing of the image plane. With a fixed lens camera that is not possible and tilt shift adaptors can only do so much because of the limitations of image circle. BTW large image circle to support camera movements is one of the big reasons for their high cost.

My solution is a good imaging editing package. A package that allows you to correct for perspective distortion and relieves shots I find indispensable. Unfortunately not many of the less expensive packages have good support to fix geometric distortion - Which is the reason I use Capture 1. DXO Photolab is also good but does not support Fuji raw but I can export a Tiff and use DXO.

 

[Bobo Hodls]

I use the maximum number of grid lines. I've not really found it an issue, the grid lines seem to work very well. I'd be interested to know too if there is a better option.

frame w camera perpendicular to the ground. to adjust hieght of shot, stand or squat while keeping camera perpendicular to the ground. dont adjust shot angle b tiltling, only by lowering or raising camera via body position,.

The question is how do we keep the camera perpendicular to the ground. It is harder without a two-axis level.

If anyone feels level-challenged w/o an in-camera aide, a hot shoe bubble level will work in a pinch.