Is this faulty lens or normal?

[nonproshooterdad]

While testing my Tamron 16-300 on Nikon D7200, I found the lens didn't get the accurate AF when the light coming dim. Shooting outside at daytime, ISO100-400, I can get very sharp photo at 300mm. When I have to push the ISO to 800+, 1/60s with VC's help, I cannot get those sharp photos. The AF still reach there, just can't get the last bits of sharpness.

It's a very good lens at good light. And it's a lemon when light coming dim. Is this normal for this lens?

I have to ask the question because my Nikon 18-140 seems have the same performance at 140mm. It looks like these lenses are designed for daylight only, or this even hints the problem or my camera?

I cannot test these lenses outside in Canada winter, I have to test them at home indoor. That's why it's so frustrating.

 

[morinor]

First at these lengths, these lens are not so sharp. Another thing to consider is that the aperture affects the AF. As you zoom in the aperture increases as number. So for the Nikon at 140m you can have f/5.6 and for the Tamron f/6.3. At these aperture number it is harder to attain and maybe also not all the AF points can be available. This happens because only a small part of light comes to the phase detector module in order to focus.

 

[stardotstar]

Wrong lens, IMO, for low light shooting. UNLESS you are compensating via ISO, shutter etc.. then you might be able to pull off a shot that could be acceptable, but not great.

 

[nonproshooterdad]

OK so this is normal. I got two positive votes. I was thinking to send the lens to Tamron service, it's not needed any more. It is just a normal lens, nothing wrong?

 

[OpticsEngineer]

sounds normal to me.

But I tend to only use my Tamron 16-300 in good light because I expect not so good performance in dim light.

I will try to find some time to try it this week on my Canon 70D.

 

[davebreal]

While testing my Tamron 16-300 on Nikon D7200, I found the lens didn't get the accurate AF when the light coming dim. Shooting outside at daytime, ISO100-400, I can get very sharp photo at 300mm. When I have to push the ISO to 800+, 1/60s with VC's help, I cannot get those sharp photos. The AF still reach there, just can't get the last bits of sharpness.

It's a very good lens at good light. And it's a lemon when light coming dim. Is this normal for this lens?

I have to ask the question because my Nikon 18-140 seems have the same performance at 140mm. It looks like these lenses are designed for daylight only, or this even hints the problem or my camera?

I cannot test these lenses outside in Canada winter, I have to test them at home indoor. That's why it's so frustrating.

To avoid camera shake the conventional rule of thumb is to set shutter speed to 1/focal length.

Since you are using a 300mm lens on 1.5 crop sensor we arrive at a minimum desired shutter speed of 1/500th of a second to minimize camera shake.

Since the lens has Vibration Control, you can lower the shutter just slightly depending on your personal stability. Potentially 2 or 3 stops.

Personally, I would have a target shutter speed no less than 1/250th with your setup, unless using a tripod or monopod (always a good idea).

Dave Blinder

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[nonproshooterdad]

sounds normal to me.

But I tend to only use my Tamron 16-300 in good light because I expect not so good performance in dim light.

I will try to find some time to try it this week on my Canon 70D.

Thanks. I really need someone to duplicate it.

 

[davebreal]

sounds normal to me.

But I tend to only use my Tamron 16-300 in good light because I expect not so good performance in dim light.

I will try to find some time to try it this week on my Canon 70D.

Thanks. I really need someone to duplicate it.

The best troubleshooting will be for you to upload a faulty image from the setup.

For most users 1/60s at 300mm is not a shutter speed which can be handheld for sharp images. This does not sound to be a lens issue.

For handheld low light telephoto shots, most user rely on F/2.8 lenses, Image Stabilization, and ISO of 3200 or greater.

 

[nonproshooterdad]

sounds normal to me.

But I tend to only use my Tamron 16-300 in good light because I expect not so good performance in dim light.

I will try to find some time to try it this week on my Canon 70D.

Thanks. I really need someone to duplicate it.

The best troubleshooting will be for you to upload a faulty image from the setup.

For most users 1/60s at 300mm is not a shutter speed which can be handheld for sharp images. This does not sound to be a lens issue.

For handheld low light telephoto shots, most user rely on F/2.8 lenses, Image Stabilization, and ISO of 3200 or greater.

The light was not that low. ISO 800 is the usual level I use for birding. If the lens works, I should have got some good shots after so many tests. Even 1 of 10, I should at least got some. But nothing. I tried ISO 1600 to use better shutter speed. It didn't work.

 

[davebreal]

sounds normal to me.

But I tend to only use my Tamron 16-300 in good light because I expect not so good performance in dim light.

I will try to find some time to try it this week on my Canon 70D.

Thanks. I really need someone to duplicate it.

The best troubleshooting will be for you to upload a faulty image from the setup.

For most users 1/60s at 300mm is not a shutter speed which can be handheld for sharp images. This does not sound to be a lens issue.

For handheld low light telephoto shots, most user rely on F/2.8 lenses, Image Stabilization, and ISO of 3200 or greater.

The light was not that low. ISO 800 is the usual level I use for birding. If the lens works, I should have got some good shots after so many tests. Even 1 of 10, I should at least got some. But nothing. I tried ISO 1600 to use better shutter speed. It didn't work.

What shutter speed were you blurred images taken at? What aperture?

What focus mode on the camera are using? raw or jpeg?

Do you have any images to share to help us evaluate?

 

[hikerdoc]

I think that even if your technique is impeccable and you are able to control vibration/camera movement at 1/60 second it is likely much too slow to eliminate the blur from subject motion if it is indeed birds you are photographing.

D

 

[davebreal]

sounds normal to me.

But I tend to only use my Tamron 16-300 in good light because I expect not so good performance in dim light.

I will try to find some time to try it this week on my Canon 70D.

Thanks. I really need someone to duplicate it.

The best troubleshooting will be for you to upload a faulty image from the setup.

For most users 1/60s at 300mm is not a shutter speed which can be handheld for sharp images. This does not sound to be a lens issue.

For handheld low light telephoto shots, most user rely on F/2.8 lenses, Image Stabilization, and ISO of 3200 or greater.

The light was not that low. ISO 800 is the usual level I use for birding. If the lens works, I should have got some good shots after so many tests. Even 1 of 10, I should at least got some. But nothing. I tried ISO 1600 to use better shutter speed. It didn't work.

To rule out user error, shoot in Shutter Priority Mode, Shutter Speed at 1/250th, Auto ISO.

The only time you would want to use a 300mm lens at 1/60th would be on a tripod or if you wanted to try for panning shots with blurs.

 

[hikerdoc]

I just looked up this lens in the DPR review database. I think their list of downsides for this particular lens pretty much sums up your voiced frustrations.

“Conclusion - Cons

Reduced sharpness at longer focal lengths, especially at the edges
Slow maximum apertures
Autofocus less reliable towards long end of the zoom
Plentiful chromatic aberration, prodigious at 200-300mm
Strong distortion throughout, both barrel and pincushion
'Focus breathing' reduces focal length at close range“

They did mention decent frame sharpness up to 100mm when stopped down to f/8.

Your expectations for image excellence and accurate focus in low light at 300mm may not be achievable with this lens designed primarily for versatility. Your needs have basically outgrown the single lens option!

D

 

[nonproshooterdad]

You probably hit the point. This is normal for this lens. I shouldn't expect that much. Only use it for travel, don't expect to use it for birding after sunset. Still good for family outing.

 

[nonproshooterdad]

Even at ISO 3200, 1/60s, the result still acceptable, it just when the subject is 30m away, it has some problem, and when compare to the best result from MF test, there is a gap in sharpness in low light. I still consider it's a good lens.

 

[hikerdoc]

You probably hit the point. This is normal for this lens. I shouldn't expect that much. Only use it for travel, don't expect to use it for birding after sunset. Still good for family outing.

I am luckier now, being a nonproshooter granddad! That mean fewer assets tied up in diapers, soccer and hockey gear, and tuition!

Enjoy

D

 

[davebreal]

Even at ISO 3200, 1/60s, the result still acceptable, it just when the subject is 30m away, it has some problem, and when compare to the best result from MF test, there is a gap in sharpness in low light. I still consider it's a good lens.

Hand holdability of a lens is related to its weight and focal length. You will be able to get more hamdheld frames sharp with shutter of 1/60th at 60mm as opposed to 300mm. Blur from camera shake will also be more apparent when filling the frame with large detailed objects vs wide shots.

No 300mm lens will repeatedly deliver sharp results handheld at 1/60th.

 

[OpticsEngineer]

"When I have to push the ISO to 800+, 1/60s with VC's help, I cannot get those sharp photos. The AF still reach there, just can't get the last bits of sharpness."

Outdoors with my 70D and Tamron 16-300 this afternoon, in the twilight after the sun went down, I shot a test chart a few times I would say my experience was about what you describe. AF accuracy was good sometimes, but sometimes not. Some problems blur from handheld shake even with VC turned on. Seems pretty normal to me.

First shot just to indicate twilight conditions. Then some test charts. Hover over the pictures with your mouse to see the ISO and shutter speed.

Camera set to AWB so kudos to Canon for reproducing black and white test chart as white and black and not so orange/pinkish. But please be aware the resolution of the charts would have looked better with a more truly balanced white light. Bars on chart marked with numbers indicating the line pairs per inch.














Reflection of twilight sky in the door to the house

 

[davebreal]

"When I have to push the ISO to 800+, 1/60s with VC's help, I cannot get those sharp photos. The AF still reach there, just can't get the last bits of sharpness."

Outdoors with my 70D and Tamron 16-300 this afternoon, in the twilight after the sun went down, I shot a test chart a few times I would say my experience was about what you describe. AF accuracy was good sometimes, but sometimes not. Some problems blur from handheld shake even with VC turned on. Seems pretty normal to me.

First shot just to indicate twilight conditions. Then some test charts. Hover over the pictures with your mouse to see the ISO and shutter speed.

Camera set to AWB so kudos to Canon for reproducing black and white test chart as white and black and not so orange/pinkish. But please be aware the resolution of the charts would have looked better with a more truly balanced white light. Bars on chart marked with numbers indicating the line pairs per inch.










Reflection of twilight sky in the door to the house

With a severely underexposed dark foreground in your first image, obtaining critical focus via autofocus could be difficult for most cameras (not much contrast).

Autofocus and resultant image quality/sharpness is best evaluated with evenly illuminated scenes.

 

[nonproshooterdad]

Thanks for the test. I don't need much detail. Someone having the siimilar issue will make me happy. Actually even my lens is faulty, I don't want to send it in. No need.

And I believe the test target with black and white is good enough for contrast.