K-S2 Aperture block failure repaired Locked

Sorry, but as an engineer I do not get it. What was then wrong with the core? If it got stuck inside the relay, definitely filing of the core edges can't help. Maybe making the core narrower could help. While no one can explain what exactly is the cause of the problem, the whole business of filing the core is a kind of charlatanism. The source of the problems could be easily just a bad contact to the relay coil, which you accidentally "fixed" when you moved that damn relay. Sorry...

Hello Pingp0NGMW and flektogon

flektogon wrote:

Sorry, but as an engineer I do not get it. What was then wrong with the core? If it got stuck inside the relay, definitely filing of the core edges can't help. Maybe making the core narrower could help. While no one can explain what exactly is the cause of the problem, the whole business of filing the core is a kind of charlatanism. The source of the problems could be easily just a bad contact to the relay coil, which you accidentally "fixed" when you moved that damn relay. Sorry...

Pingp0NGMW congratulation !

To flektogon: I read about it that the anchor can tilted, and don't move because this. You solve the problem like Pingp0NGMW did.

Now maybe a little Teflon-spray helps also for to keep it in work ?

best regards KPM2

Reading the Pentax Forums site in detail, it appears that the analysis eventually leads to a buildup of residual magnetism causing additional friction in the armature. Opening up additional gaps on either the ends or the sides of the armature breaks up the loop and restores proper operation.This may be supported by the reports that AA fresh batteries with possibly more available power can temporarily restore operation (until the magnetism builds up even more).

Heck, from watching the video, maybe even using the metal file across the ends demagnetizes the coil partially. Now if anyone documents before and after the magnetic field of the armature we may have a data driven answer.

Zshuterbug wrote:

Reading the Pentax Forums site in detail, it appears that the analysis eventually leads to a buildup of residual magnetism causing additional friction in the armature. Opening up additional gaps on either the ends or the sides of the armature breaks up the loop and restores proper operation.This may be supported by the reports that AA fresh batteries with possibly more available power can temporarily restore operation (until the magnetism builds up even more).

Heck, from watching the video, maybe even using the metal file across the ends demagnetizes the coil partially. Now if anyone documents before and after the magnetic field of the armature we may have a data driven answer.

Tha't exactly my thought. Yes, the lousy material can be the culprit. By then I would rather replace the entire relay for a more reliable one, as it is now currently discussed in another thread.

DAVID MANZE wrote:

Firstly, well done!

Going back to my sound recording days, a build up of residual magnetisation was a common problem on audio tape recording heads, it caused a background grumble and other. It was routine to demagnetize the heads with an iron cored copper wound coil with an AC current which would "shake" the molecules around until their pole orientation was neutral.

From what I read here maybe the problem could also be cured by demagnetizing the offending core piece, it's a shame that many bodies find their way to the dumpster because of it!

Dave,

Actually that's an excellent idea, which could be even implemented by an addition to the camera F/W.  Just like dust removal, or other "maintenance" setting, there could be the "demagnetization" setting, where this solenoid would be driven by an AC current with a slowly decaying amplitude. Well, the lens probably would need to be removed during such procedure, but within a second or two the core would be completely free of any residual magnetism.

flektogon wrote:

DAVID MANZE wrote:

Firstly, well done!

Going back to my sound recording days, a build up of residual magnetisation was a common problem on audio tape recording heads, it caused a background grumble and other. It was routine to demagnetize the heads with an iron cored copper wound coil with an AC current which would "shake" the molecules around until their pole orientation was neutral.

From what I read here maybe the problem could also be cured by demagnetizing the offending core piece, it's a shame that many bodies find their way to the dumpster because of it!

Dave,

Actually that's an excellent idea, which could be even implemented by an addition to the camera F/W. Just like dust removal, or other "maintenance" setting, there could be the "demagnetization" setting, where this solenoid would be driven by an AC current with a slowly decaying amplitude. Well, the lens probably would need to be removed during such procedure, but within a second or two the core would be completely free of any residual magnetism.

I've got another idea. Because those failing cameras have plastic bodies, it might be possible to demagnetize this solenoid core from outside, just circling a suitable demagnetization tool as close as possible above this solenoid. Once I made such a tool for exactly what you mentioned, for the tape recording heads. It was a simple coil for 120V, but I drove it from the 220V AC power outlet (just for a short time) and as the core I used, well now I do not remember what kind of iron/steel rode it was, but some ferromagnetic material with the minimal residual magnetism. The rod protruded from the coils around 10cm. I have successfully demagnetized the audio tape recorder heads in all households along the entire street where we used to live .

So, do we have a skilled electro-technician around here, who have access to suitable material and could build such a tool? Well, it should be verified that it works, and if yes, such a tool can be "circled" around all unfortunate Pentax owners.

flektogon wrote:

flektogon wrote:

DAVID MANZE wrote:

Firstly, well done!

Going back to my sound recording days, a build up of residual magnetisation was a common problem on audio tape recording heads, it caused a background grumble and other. It was routine to demagnetize the heads with an iron cored copper wound coil with an AC current which would "shake" the molecules around until their pole orientation was neutral.

From what I read here maybe the problem could also be cured by demagnetizing the offending core piece, it's a shame that many bodies find their way to the dumpster because of it!

Dave,

Actually that's an excellent idea, which could be even implemented by an addition to the camera F/W. Just like dust removal, or other "maintenance" setting, there could be the "demagnetization" setting, where this solenoid would be driven by an AC current with a slowly decaying amplitude. Well, the lens probably would need to be removed during such procedure, but within a second or two the core would be completely free of any residual magnetism.

I've got another idea. Because those failing cameras have plastic bodies, it might be possible to demagnetize this solenoid core from outside, just circling a suitable demagnetization tool as close as possible above this solenoid. Once I made such a tool for exactly what you mentioned, for the tape recording heads. It was a simple coil for 120V, but I drove it from the 220V AC power outlet (just for a short time) and as the core I used, well now I do not remember what kind of iron/steel rode it was, but some ferromagnetic material with the minimal residual magnetism. The rod protruded from the coils around 10cm. I have successfully demagnetized the audio tape recorder heads in all households along the entire street where we used to live .

So, do we have a skilled electro-technician around here, who have access to suitable material and could build such a tool? Well, it should be verified that it works, and if yes, such a tool can be "circled" around all unfortunate Pentax owners.

And my third (last ?) contribution to this problem: If this solenoid core/plunger can't be demagnetized from outside (circling with the demagnetization tool around the plastic body), it might be demagnetized through the aperture control lever, which is accessible when you remove lens, as this lever directly moves the aperture lever on the lens. This (body, not lens) lever is visible as a shaft inserted to the hole of the plunger, as OP shows in his pictures. Hopefully this lever is made from ferromagnetic material as well. Certainly there are ways how to beat even the least caring manufacturer.

Yes, I am aware of such danger. So, then the only way to fix this problem without disassembling camera is to shoot in the burst mode, but in such burst mode, in which the aperture movement is fully engaged. As someone already tried it, it is in the LV mode. This "fixing" is a kind of demagnetization using a low frequency (5-6 Hz) AC current.