EF-X8 - is it of any use? (how -to?)

[Sjak]

OK I have to start with a confession, I rarely use a flash at all, also on previous cams, as the effect turned out ugly most of the time, and a fast lens pic, even with a bit of motion blur, gives a nicer memory.

But the menu on the X-T1 suggests far more adjustments.

After some try-outs, I am confused however. If I set on TTL with e.g. -2EV flash, the resulting pic is darker than without flash, and with normal or +2, it has the ugly flat flash-look.

Is there any way to use this mini-flash in a good way? Or better to not bother at all and rely on faster glass? (I will not carry around a larger flash, partly because of the bulk, partly because of the intrusiveness of a large unit)

 

[Rod McD]

OK I have to start with a confession, I rarely use a flash at all, also on previous cams, as the effect turned out ugly most of the time, and a fast lens pic, even with a bit of motion blur, gives a nicer memory.

But the menu on the X-T1 suggests far more adjustments.

After some try-outs, I am confused however. If I set on TTL with e.g. -2EV flash, the resulting pic is darker than without flash, and with normal or +2, it has the ugly flat flash-look.

Is there any way to use this mini-flash in a good way? Or better to not bother at all and rely on faster glass? (I will not carry around a larger flash, partly because of the bulk, partly because of the intrusiveness of a large unit)

The interaction between the camera and the EFX8 depends on your camera exposure mode (Aperture Preferred, Shutter, Program or Manual) the flash mode menu settings (auto, force fill, slow sync, etc) and the situation. There are a number of different ways it might respond in different modes. I'm not going to try to describe them all - I don't know them all..... And the XT1 manual isn't all that helpful.

We don't know your subject set up or settings in the experience you described, but I suspect that the flash is causing the camera to set a higher shutter speed than the ambient light requires (if below sync speed indoors or in low light). The combination of that speed with the aperture you've set under-exposed, and the flash then failed to provide enough illumination to offset the under-exposure. More so with the negative compensation. Just my guess.... If you think that's right, you may be in forced flash/fill mode.

You could try slow synch flash mode and the camera will retain the ambient light SS settings and fire the flash, but you may have to ensure your shutter speed is up to an appropriate hand-holding speed to avoid motion blur. You could also try program exposure mode, and put the flash in 'auto' mode. The camera will choose higher shutter speeds below sync speed and then stop down the aperture.

The opposite can occur outdoors in bright light depending on whether the mode is appropriate. If the ambient exposure requires a shutter speed above sync speed ( up to 1/180), the camera will nevertheless set sync speed and you may get over-exposure.

If you're using it for fill, you need to set the exposure for the ambient light with a suitable mode, ISO & aperture to get the shutter speed <1/180, then adjust the flash for the level of fill required with flash compensation.

The camera also seems to respond differently depending on whether you're using Fuji lenses, where it 'knows' the aperture, or adapted lenses where it doesn't. I'm still working this out.....

I suggest experimenting by changing your exposure modes and flash modes and noting how the camera is responding when you mount the EFX8 flash and turn it off/on by raising it up and down.

NB that the EFX8 can't be used off-camera to get better results. Fuji don't market off-camera flash cords and the Canon ones (that work with battery-powered flashes) don't carry the extra wire for the pins that power the EFX8 from the camera.

Faster glass may well help avoid flash altogether, or help to allow the limited power of the EFX8 to illuminate your subject, but only as long as the DOF you require for the subject or situation can be obtained at the faster aperture. If you have to stop down anyway for adequate DOF, or to cope with ambient light, the faster glass doesn't help.

Hope that helps.

Rod

 

[Sjak]

Thanks so much for your very elaborate answer, Rod!

This is indeed at the core of the problem:

And the XT1 manual isn't all that helpful.

I read the additional online manual for the newer firmware, but it is very limited, it just points out how to select the menu-items, nothing more.

I almost exclusively use adapted (manual) lenses. The reason for the try-out is an upcoming trip to Scotland, where the evenings will be spent indoors in those wonderful British pubs.

I tried to make some shots at home of my bookshelf at different flash settings, with fixed aperture, and ISO&SS set on auto.

Your post gave me a lot of ideas on how to experiment, but I will do this at home. During the trip, I will rely on faster aperture and the stabilizing liquids served at the pub :-D

Trying out the flash seems a bit too experimental for doing on a trip, where I want my attention on other things. A lot more involved in it to use properly it seems, so another learning opportunity

 

[js 1947]

IMHO, it's of no use.

Just got one included with my XT-2. Tried it out and ready to discard it.

The most fundamental problem is -- do you like the way an image looks with a white light shining directly from the camera? Or is the image more interesting when the light comes from the side? I personally hate the flat light from an on-camera flash.

To make the problem worse, the EF-X8 is so weak that it is useless as a fill flash most of the time. I grant you that there is that one shot in a hundred where it would make a picture better, but if you really need a flash, get something with more juice, which can be set to bounce, or used with a diffuser. Otherwise, ratchet up your ISO and open your lens all the way. If you're shooting in a bar you probably want a shallow depth of field in any event.

It's probably too late for you to use this in Scotland, but hope you had a great trip. Good shooting.

 

[Sjak]

Thanks! Meanwhile I've been twice to Scotland. On the 1st trip, my Leica 40 2.0 managed pretty well actually, and it's a really versatile and tiny lens.

For pub-shots, eventually the 7artisans 35 1.2 turned out to be the ideal partner on the Fuji. It's so tiny that I always put it in my bag when there's a possibility for pub/restaurant/club, and so cheap that I don't worry in the least about some drunken damage that could occur.

For flashwork I've meanwhile found a different platform to practice.