Upgrade to D7500 or D7200

[Pini]

HI

i use D90 + 18-105 and 55-200

and i want upgrade the camera and lens

most of my pictuers are in family events (low light ) and home studio

shuld i upgrade to D7500 or D7200

and len suggested

I thought about Nikon D750 + Tamron 24-70 + 70-200 G2 but its very expensive and heavy lens ( my daughter also use this came )

my daughter very like the D7500 (more light and the tilting screen )

Is the difference in price equal to the difference in the quality of cameras???

 

[samurai7595]

shuld i upgrade to D7500 or D7200

https://www.dpreview.com/articles/3436918000/nikon-d7500-vs-d7200

For a good lenses, checkout:

Nikon AF-S DX 16-80mm f/2.8-4E ED VR

Nikon AF-P DX 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED VR

Nikon AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8G

 

[jshen808]

HI

i use D90 + 18-105 and 55-200

and i want upgrade the camera and lens

most of my pictuers are in family events (low light ) and home studio

shuld i upgrade to D7500 or D7200

and len suggested

I thought about Nikon D750 + Tamron 24-70 + 70-200 G2 but its very expensive and heavy lens ( my daughter also use this came )

my daughter very like the D7500 (more light and the tilting screen )

Is the difference in price equal to the difference in the quality of cameras???

Since your daughter likes the D7500.. then good reason to go for it.. ;-)

..Best wishes!

 

[André BARELIER]

You mean D7500 vs D7200 or D750 vs D7500?

I have a D7200, and I'm very pleased with it. I would not pay twice its price to get a D7500. YMMV

Since you're interested in low light pictures, these were shot at iso 8000.




The great Pharoah Sanders. He's getting old....




Chucho Valdez. A great concert...

--
André

http://a.barelier.free.fr/

 

[66GTO]

I still like the idea of 2 SD card slots, which would lead me towards the D7200. But I also like many of the images that I see from the D7500. I could be happy with either.

 

[p51d007]

I went from a poor overworked D5000, to the D7200 and the change is TREMENDOUS.

 

[User5511277733]

You mean D7500 vs D7200 or D750 vs D7500?

I have a D7200, and I'm very pleased with it. I would not pay twice its price to get a D7500. YMMV

Since you're interested in low light pictures, these were shot at iso 8000.


The great Pharoah Sanders. He's getting old....


Chucho Valdez. A great concert...

--
André
http://a.barelier.free.fr/

How do you get such clean high iso pics? My li.it is like 1600 before the noise is to much.

 

[TeachHSchool]

I'm faced with a choice between D7200, or D7500 for use by myself and students photographing sports and other events at a high school. Hi ISO performance is an important consideration as is availability of fast glass in the 17mm-50mm and 70mm-200mm class, burst rate suitable for sports, buffer size, ruggedness, decent video capability and a price low enough that I would be willing to give the camera to a team of students and send them off to cover a school event while I remain in class.

The only two out there that more or less meet the above criteria are the D7200 and D7500. I'm leaning towards the D7500 due to the articulating screen and 3-axis built-in e-VR image stabilization for video.

One big question I have concerns video. I've been using a D3300. Liveview AF on the D3300 is horrible. Is Liveview AF on the D7200, or D7500 any better?

I am sort of assuming that when Nikon makes its 100th anniversary announcement in a week, or two, prices of existing products will be dropped.

 

[Mystery member]

I'm faced with a choice between D7200, or D7500 for use by myself and students photographing sports and other events at a high school. Hi ISO performance is an important consideration as is availability of fast glass in the 17mm-50mm and 70mm-200mm class, burst rate suitable for sports, buffer size, ruggedness, decent video capability and a price low enough that I would be willing to give the camera to a team of students and send them off to cover a school event while I remain in class.

The only two out there that more or less meet the above criteria are the D7200 and D7500. I'm leaning towards the D7500 due to the articulating screen and 3-axis built-in e-VR image stabilization for video.

One big question I have concerns video. I've been using a D3300. Liveview AF on the D3300 is horrible. Is Liveview AF on the D7200, or D7500 any better?

Have you thought of getting a mixture Sony and Nikon?

These cameras arguably represent the best of the present market, and learning on two cameras has many benefits. I'm not a video fan, but I understand that Sony beats the pants off Nikon for video.

I've only rarely used LV on my D3200 and D7100, and it isn't very impressive. Must admit that I'm tempted by the thought of the D7500; maybe when my D7100 gives up.

 

[Lynn876]

Andre, I'd like to know how you get such clean high iso pics on the d7200 too. I'm finding a lot of noise at high also. Did you mean 800 iso instead of 8000? If you used a de-noise software filter what did you use?

 

[Mystery member]

Andre, I'd like to know how you get such clean high iso pics on the d7200 too. I'm finding a lot of noise at high also. Did you mean 800 iso instead of 8000? If you used a de-noise software filter what did you use?

EXIF data with image says that it's 8000. Scene looks like it might have needed ISO 8000, particularly as SS was 1/200s.

It also looks impressive to me compared with ISO 6400 on my D7100, so I suspect that some de-noising has been applied.

 

[André BARELIER]

Andre, I'd like to know how you get such clean high iso pics on the d7200 too. I'm finding a lot of noise at high also. Did you mean 800 iso instead of 8000? If you used a de-noise software filter what did you use?

EXIF data with image says that it's 8000. Scene looks like it might have needed ISO 8000, particularly as SS was 1/200s.

It also looks impressive to me compared with ISO 6400 on my D7100, so I suspect that some de-noising has been applied.

Hello,

I'm responding to User 5511..., Lynn876 and WryCuda

First, I confirm that theses images were shot at iso 8000, not 800!

I'm just a hobbyist, taking pictures for fun. But since you asked, here is how I do:

I set my D7200 in M mode, using the lens full open (2.8), a suitable SS, depending on the movement of the subject, with OS on (I know OS won't freeze a moving subject, but it helps for framing, and also it makes up for camera shake if the subject is static at the time I press the shutter). Autoiso is on, with a maximal value of 8000.

For these pictures, given the available light, aperture and SS, the maximal value has been reached, which means that the pictures might have been underexposed.

That was not the case: I didn't have to correct exposure in PP.

I shoot raw, and use DxO Optics Pro 11 Elite. This software has a Noise reduction engine called "PRIME". It does a superb job at removing noise: better than ACR, and much better than NX-D (I own these programmes too).

For these pictures, I don't do a lot of PP: I convert the NEF files with DxO, using PRIME NR, then export in PS CS6 as TIFFs, open the files in CS6, crop if needed, resize, sharpen using smart sharpen, and save as jpegs.

That's all.

I think that the sharpness of the lens plays an important role in the perceived noise. When a lens is soft, the lens softness is added to the softness due to noise, giving a soft image. It shows in the pictures.

With a sharp lens, only noise generates some softness that you can deal with.

The Sigma 50-150 OS HSM is the sharpest lens I've ever owned. It helps a lot in getting sharp high iso pictures.

But again, I'm a hobbyist. There are some pros in this forum who could help much more than me.

BTW, I started to use BBF that night, which gave me some soft images, due to the fact that I sometimes forgot I had to press the AEL button to focus :-|

It will take some time to get used to this new way of using AF, but I think I'm convinced that it is a better way to use the camera.

 

[Mystery member]

Andre, I'd like to know how you get such clean high iso pics on the d7200 too. I'm finding a lot of noise at high also. Did you mean 800 iso instead of 8000? If you used a de-noise software filter what did you use?

EXIF data with image says that it's 8000. Scene looks like it might have needed ISO 8000, particularly as SS was 1/200s.

It also looks impressive to me compared with ISO 6400 on my D7100, so I suspect that some de-noising has been applied.

First, I confirm that theses images were shot at iso 8000, not 800!

I'm just a hobbyist, taking pictures for fun. But since you asked, here is how I do:

I shoot raw, and use DxO Optics Pro 11 Elite. This software has a Noise reduction engine called "PRIME". It does a superb job at removing noise: better than ACR, and much better than NX-D (I own these programmes too).

For these pictures, I don't do a lot of PP: I convert the NEF files with DxO, using PRIME NR, then export in PS CS6 as TIFFs, open the files in CS6, crop if needed, resize, sharpen using smart sharpen, and save as jpegs.

I think that the sharpness of the lens plays an important role in the perceived noise. When a lens is soft, the lens softness is added to the softness due to noise, giving a soft image. It shows in the pictures.

With a sharp lens, only noise generates some softness that you can deal with.

The Sigma 50-150 OS HSM is the sharpest lens I've ever owned. It helps a lot in getting sharp high iso pictures.

BTW, I started to use BBF that night, which gave me some soft images, due to the fact that I sometimes forgot I had to press the AEL button to focus.

Thanks for the reply. I suspected that the lens may have been the Sigma 50-150mm. I've found that sharpening really works well when it's applied to an image that already looks quite sharp.

Good tip on the combination of denoise and sharpen; many would be satisfied by denoise alone.

Stick with BBF, it seems to be working when you remember to use it. :-D

Are you aware of this trick which is applicable to the sorts of scenarios in your examples?

Exposure lock in manual mode with Auto-ISO

-allows you to change shooting parameters "on the fly" while Auto-ISO maintains the exposure (or "brightness", if you prefer).

Takes a while to get your head around the procedure, but follow the thread and you'll see some examples.

 

[samurai7595]

Have you thought of getting a mixture Sony and Nikon?

I owned a Nikon D7000 and a friend of mine convinced me to go for the Sony a6500 due to it's smaller/lighter size. I owned it for 3 months and although I liked the body a lot, I was not impressed with the Sony E lenses. Sony needs to invest some serious time & money in R&D towards developing better E lenses. Their FE lenses are OK but their E lenses are not great and with a smaller/lighter body, it makes no sense to start using their FE lenses.

So I sold the Sony a6500 and went back to Nikon by getting a Nikon D7500. Now I'm happy again!

Just my 2 cents...

 

[Mystery member]

Have you thought of getting a mixture Sony and Nikon?

I owned a Nikon D7000 and a friend of mine convinced me to go for the Sony a6500 due to it's smaller/lighter size. I owned it for 3 months and although I liked the body a lot, I was not impressed with the Sony E lenses. Sony needs to invest some serious time & money in R&D towards developing better E lenses. Their FE lenses are OK but their E lenses are not great and with a smaller/lighter body, it makes no sense to start using their FE lenses.

Well, I now only use FE lenses and I share them between the a6000 and a7 and gain a little focal length flexibility. For example, the Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 works well on both cameras, and is a nice compact solution for travel. A "less compact" lens is the 16-35mm f/4, but it's a nice range on the a6000. So too is the 70-200mm f/4, but that's a "lens of a different colour", and far better than the 55-210mm alternative.

I wasn't totally satisfied with my introductory E lenses, so my son now uses them with his a5100. They were OK on my a6000, but I wasn't prepared to risk large amounts of $$$ on the upper echelon of E lenses.

 

[Dennis]

I would choose the D7200 because I use a VC grip frequently. If I didn't use a VC grip, then I would probably choose the D7500. But for now, I'm happy shooting a D7000.

- Dennis
--
Gallery at http://kingofthebeasts.smugmug.com

 

[André BARELIER]

Andre, I'd like to know how you get such clean high iso pics on the d7200 too. I'm finding a lot of noise at high also. Did you mean 800 iso instead of 8000? If you used a de-noise software filter what did you use?

EXIF data with image says that it's 8000. Scene looks like it might have needed ISO 8000, particularly as SS was 1/200s.

It also looks impressive to me compared with ISO 6400 on my D7100, so I suspect that some de-noising has been applied.

First, I confirm that theses images were shot at iso 8000, not 800!

I'm just a hobbyist, taking pictures for fun. But since you asked, here is how I do:

I shoot raw, and use DxO Optics Pro 11 Elite. This software has a Noise reduction engine called "PRIME". It does a superb job at removing noise: better than ACR, and much better than NX-D (I own these programmes too).

For these pictures, I don't do a lot of PP: I convert the NEF files with DxO, using PRIME NR, then export in PS CS6 as TIFFs, open the files in CS6, crop if needed, resize, sharpen using smart sharpen, and save as jpegs.

I think that the sharpness of the lens plays an important role in the perceived noise. When a lens is soft, the lens softness is added to the softness due to noise, giving a soft image. It shows in the pictures.

With a sharp lens, only noise generates some softness that you can deal with.

The Sigma 50-150 OS HSM is the sharpest lens I've ever owned. It helps a lot in getting sharp high iso pictures.

BTW, I started to use BBF that night, which gave me some soft images, due to the fact that I sometimes forgot I had to press the AEL button to focus.

Thanks for the reply. I suspected that the lens may have been the Sigma 50-150mm. I've found that sharpening really works well when it's applied to an image that already looks quite sharp.

Good tip on the combination of denoise and sharpen; many would be satisfied by denoise alone.

Stick with BBF, it seems to be working when you remember to use it. :-D

Are you aware of this trick which is applicable to the sorts of scenarios in your examples?

Exposure lock in manual mode with Auto-ISO

-allows you to change shooting parameters "on the fly" while Auto-ISO maintains the exposure (or "brightness", if you prefer).

Takes a while to get your head around the procedure, but follow the thread and you'll see some examples.

This is indeed very interesting.

The kind of pictures I shot that night were "portraits", shot on the fly. I used spot metering for all of them, and the lens full open to be able to use relatively fast SS, and to blur the background. I almost never have to correct exposure in post. And if I had to do so, the P7200 sensor is so good that it allows to brighten an image if needed without adding too intrusive noise (or to recover blown highlights without clipping).

But for the situation Steve was facing, it's a very useful tip.

Since I decided to give BBF a try, I thought that, if needed, I could use half press shutter to lock exposure, and the AEL button to focus.

But Steve's method is much more efficient, because it allows to lock exposure for several pictures, and to forget about it.

Thanks again. I'm really happy to learn from skilled and friendly guys on this forum.

--
André
http://a.barelier.free.fr/

 

[Mystery member]

Are you aware of this trick which is applicable to the sorts of scenarios in your examples?

Exposure lock in manual mode with Auto-ISO

-allows you to change shooting parameters "on the fly" while Auto-ISO maintains the exposure (or "brightness", if you prefer).

Takes a while to get your head around the procedure, but follow the thread and you'll see some examples.

This is indeed very interesting.

The kind of pictures I shot that night were "portraits", shot on the fly. I used spot metering for all of them, and the lens full open to be able to use relatively fast SS, and to blur the background. I almost never have to correct exposure in post. And if I had to do so, the P7200 sensor is so good that it allows to brighten an image if needed without adding too intrusive noise (or to recover blown highlights without clipping).

But for the situation Steve was facing, it's a very useful tip.

Since I decided to give BBF a try, I thought that, if needed, I could use half press shutter to lock exposure, and the AEL button to focus.

But Steve's method is much more efficient, because it allows to lock exposure for several pictures, and to forget about it.

Thanks again. I'm really happy to learn from skilled and friendly guys on this forum.

Pleased to be able to help.

I thought that I knew the camera very well, so I was surprised to learn of this useful method. BTW, it almost breaks the rule that says "ISO is not a part of exposure", since exposure (once locked) is maintained by the floating ISO.

I sometimes mention to beginners who aspire to the D7100/D7200 that I'm still finding new and interesting features after 4 years of frequent use. Recently, I realised that it's possible to have three separate button customisations, namely for U1 and U2, as well as another for the default PASM modes. (Depends on what order you do the button assignments and U1/U2 saves).

 

[StillLearning]

Those are great results at 8000. I don't usually go over 3200 with mine. Now I'll try out the upper ISOs. Though it appears you nailed the exposure when I don't the noise shows up.

 

[toomanycanons]

HI

i use D90 + 18-105 and 55-200

and i want upgrade the camera and lens

most of my pictuers are in family events (low light ) and home studio

shuld i upgrade to D7500 or D7200

and len suggested

I thought about Nikon D750 + Tamron 24-70 + 70-200 G2 but its very expensive and heavy lens ( my daughter also use this came )

my daughter very like the D7500 (more light and the tilting screen )

Is the difference in price equal to the difference in the quality of cameras???

Refurb D7200.