Landscape photography

[PureBlue0229]

I recently went out to a nearby lake to take landscape photos of an orange sunset. My set up is a Canon 7D2 and using Canon 24-105 f4 lens. I set the aperture at f13 and focus to single point af. I used a tripod but most of my photos came out blurry. MOst of my shots wetter taken at the wider angle of the lens. I used daylight wb and a low iso, between 100 and 200. I did forget to turn off the image stabilizer on the lens, could that lead to blurry photos? Also, for the focus points, was I correct in using a single af point or should I have set it for a zone focus point? I had the camera set to single shot drive mode. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[vpilot]

An example picture with EXIF-data would be extremely helpful.

 

[Snow Crow]

Did you use "Hyper focal distance" when focusing the scene?

 

[GussieG]

I did forget to turn off the image stabilizer on the lens, could that lead to blurry photos?

Yes, it could.

What shutter speed did you use? Was it windy? How stable was your tripod?

 

[wolfbane]

Hello PureBlue,

I guess that most of us would prefer to use manual focussing for landscapes and skyscapes, many of which lack an object at a suitable distance from the observer on which the AF system can lock, as I know to my cost, Alistair.

 

[Dan Marchant]

It could be several issues.
Older versions of IS certainly did cause motion blur when used on a tripod. In addition not using a timed release could cause camera movement when you depressed the shutter. Likewise mirror slap if you don't have mirror lock up set. Lastly where you focus in the image will also affect how much of it is in focus.

As a previous poster said, example with exif intact please.

 

[PureBlue0229]

I shot in aperture priority so the camera set the shutter speed which, for most shots was between 1/8 sec and 2 seconds as it got darker. I do have a stable tripod but i was lax in tightening the ball head at times.

 

[PureBlue0229]

I didn't know about hyperfocal distance t the time. I have since read about it. I'm still not sure if i should chose a single focus point or switch to zone focus.

 

[rxb dc]

...

I did forget to turn off the image stabilizer on the lens, could that lead to blurry photos?

I have never, ever gotten sharp photos on a tripod with IS on.

Retry with tight ball head, IS off and 100 ISO

 

[PureBlue0229]

This is a sample pic.

Canon EOS 7D Mark II

f/13

2.5 seconds

ISO 160

Exposure +.3 step

focal length 80mm

Canon lens 24-105 f/4L

 

[grimlock361]

Tripods, no matter how still, can't compensate for subject movement. The wind can also cause subtle movement in trees and even the tripod itself. The longer the exposure the higher the margin for error. Use ISO 400 next time. there is a fine line between practicality and optimal image quality. Also, rapid temperature changes can cause condensation on your lens resulting in blurry photos.

--
http://361photo.net
http://kristopher-bedgood.artistwebsites.com

 

[KariP]

This is a sample pic.

Canon EOS 7D Mark II

f/13

2.5 seconds

ISO 160

Exposure +.3 step

focal length 80mm

Canon lens 24-105 f/4L

Why f 13 ? - that gives a rather long time for subject movement (people move and the wind...)

But if you look at the bright lights of the house - you can see that your camera has not been on a very stable tripod - or you pushed the shutter button with a heavy finger (no cable release)

There are two things that cause this - difficult to say if there is any focusing problem.

F 8 could be a bit sharper and there is no special reason to use that low ISO 160 - ISO 800 + f5,6 would have given a much faster time like 1/20 sec - a hand held shot is possible..

This was not the focusing...

--
Kari
SLR photography started in 1968, first DSLR was Canon 40D in 2007. Now Fuji X-T1 is my favourite. I still have my Canon 7D and Canon gear

 

[PureBlue0229]

I understand that the smaller aperture will give me a larger DOF and I went with a low ISO to try and get better picture resolution. Thanks for your input.

 

[Alastair Norcross]

I understand that the smaller aperture will give me a larger DOF and I went with a low ISO to try and get better picture resolution. Thanks for your input.

At a certain point, the larger DOF of a smaller aperture is offset by diffraction and the fact that the lens doesn't perform as well beyond a certain aperture. I suspect that F13 is beyond that point in this case. I would choose F8 for this kind of shot. It's also clear that you have both motion blur and camera shake in the shot. A 2.5 second exposure needs both a really good tripod and head, and mirror lock-up combined with delay or wireless remote. Then you need a completely still landscape (no wind).

 

[CheleA]

My 24-105L does cause blur in my 70D and 6D if the IS is turned on while mounted on a tripod, however, the blurriness will go away if you use the 2sec self timer This is not the case with the 70-200F4IS. The IS on the 70-200 seems to know when it's mounted on a tripod and not cause any issues.

 

[KariP]

I understand that the smaller aperture will give me a larger DOF and I went with a low ISO to try and get better picture resolution. Thanks for your input.

Sometimes you really need deeper DOF - in late night shots it leads to long exposures . In bright sunlight there is no problem. Usually the sweet point of sharpness (best sharpness if that matters) of all lenses is around f5,6-f8.

If you really NEED deep DOF you must think first how deep and what is the cost and the compositional idea/vision . Softness of f 22 or the terribly long exposure time - and do you really need all that DOF ... for example in you image you could focus to those persons standing some 10-15 meters from you and the background can be quite sharp - with f 5,6. Of course it is difficult to see what you were trying to get

Same with low ISO. In real life the IQ is good enough up to 1400 or even 3200 ISO. ISO 800-1000 is a good compromise and good enough for almost everything - in the darkness/night.




Handheld shot in a crowded place - quite dark, my good old 40D.... some years ago before 7D



--
Kari
SLR photography started in 1968, first DSLR was Canon 40D in 2007. Now Fuji X-T1 is my favourite. I still have my Canon 7D and Canon gear

 

[trulandphoto]

What everyone else said. Plus, at f/13 on a crop sensor, diffraction will certainly be coming into play but the other issues certainly outweigh that in this case.

 

[TyphoonTW]

Most of my blurry images shot on a tripod had IS on.

 

[Steve Balcombe]

I didn't know about hyperfocal distance t the time. I have since read about it. I'm still not sure if i should chose a single focus point or switch to zone focus.

As others have explained, the blur is not due to being out of focus, but to answer the question - you need to decide where you want to focus and use single point, or manual focus.

I think zone AF is sometimes misunderstood by people who are new to it. It doesn't attempt to get the whole zone in focus, it is telling the camera to decide where it thinks the subject is, within that zone. For the kind of shot you posted, you should decide, not the camera!