1DX - Purple Issue

[tvstaff]

Hi,

My 1DX errors towards "Purple Push" when shooting. Using AWB and Daylight

I've included a RAW file that was converted to JPEG with "NO" work done to it. I've also included a screen shot from Lightroom.

This issue has been prevalent in both copies of my 1DX and it happens with all my lenses. I shoot more with the f/2.8 70-200 IS USM II and the example included is from a f/2.8 300mm IS USM II.

In post production, I must pull the purple hue to "0", pull the purple saturation down to "0" at times and push the purple LUM all the way up to get rid of the excessive purple color.

The shortfall of this is that it corrects the purple but then become destructive.

Any thoughts to correcting this "while" shooting that will garner proper results? If you please take a look at my gallery you'll see that my work is predominantly "Water Sports" where this issue is exaggerated.

Thank you,

Tony

http://www.kissmykite.com




NO Post Production! Issue most in the 5000 to 6500 ranges




Here you can see the camera AWB is 5800 and +28 for Tint






RAW FILE - Lightroom




With Studio and Runway in 3200 range the purple is LESS of an issue



--
Feel Always Humble - "FAH" - You'll Learn More

http://tony6454.wix.com/aruba-kitesurfing

 

[RedFox88]

Pic 1 the sky is causing the WB issue. To show a comparison you need to use the same pic in both softwares. Your Two examples were developed differently.

 

[Don Lacy]

Hi,

My 1DX errors towards "Purple Push" when shooting. Using AWB and Daylight

I've included a RAW file that was converted to JPEG with "NO" work done to it. I've also included a screen shot from Lightroom.

This issue has been prevalent in both copies of my 1DX and it happens with all my lenses. I shoot more with the f/2.8 70-200 IS USM II and the example included is from a f/2.8 300mm IS USM II.

In post production, I must pull the purple hue to "0", pull the purple saturation down to "0" at times and push the purple LUM all the way up to get rid of the excessive purple color.

The shortfall of this is that it corrects the purple but then become destructive.

Any thoughts to correcting this "while" shooting that will garner proper results? If you please take a look at my gallery you'll see that my work is predominantly "Water Sports" where this issue is exaggerated.

Thank you,

Tony

http://www.kissmykite.com


NO Post Production! Issue most in the 5000 to 6500 ranges


Here you can see the camera AWB is 5800 and +28 for Tint


RAW FILE - Lightroom


With Studio and Runway in 3200 range the purple is LESS of an issue

--
Feel Always Humble - "FAH" - You'll Learn More
http://tony6454.wix.com/aruba-kitesurfing

Convert the files using DDP it is just as likely an issue with Lightroom as the 1DX. If you are still seeing the cast after converting in DPP then the camera might be the issue. Since the 1DX has been out for years now if this was a universal issue it would be well reported by now.

--
Don Lacy

500px

500px.com

http://lacy.smugmug.com

 

[J A C S]

Why is the tint pushed to +28? That is excessive in normal light. This adds more red and changes the color of the sky, for example.

Check the camera settings. Are there settings changed that may affect the AWB?

 

[RGBCMYK]

Have you ever considered shooting a MacBeth Colorchecker Passport and making a custom camera profile. When I made my profiles for my 1DsII and 1DsIII I saw a considerable change in the blues. It is very easy to auto apply the profile on import into LR. I do have a 1Dx but currently out of town but could make one in a week and see if there is a different rendition in the blues.

Personally I never use Canon's AWB and shoot daylight for my raw files and correct in processing. I find that I always had to tweak the AWB color balance and starting with daylight was easier for me.

 

[tvstaff]

Have you ever considered shooting a MacBeth Colorchecker Passport and making a custom camera profile. When I made my profiles for my 1DsII and 1DsIII I saw a considerable change in the blues. It is very easy to auto apply the profile on import into LR. I do have a 1Dx but currently out of town but could make one in a week and see if there is a different rendition in the blues.

Personally I never use Canon's AWB and shoot daylight for my raw files and correct in processing. I find that I always had to tweak the AWB color balance and starting with daylight was easier for me.

 

[tvstaff]

Why is the tint pushed to +28? That is excessive in normal light. This adds more red and changes the color of the sky, for example.

Check the camera settings. Are there settings changed that may affect the AWB?

Hi Jacs what number were you expecting? Thank you.
--
Feel Always Humble - "FAH" - You'll Learn More

http://tony6454.wix.com/aruba-kitesurfing

 

[J A C S]

Why is the tint pushed to +28? That is excessive in normal light. This adds more red and changes the color of the sky, for example.

Check the camera settings. Are there settings changed that may affect the AWB?

Hi Jacs what number were you expecting? Thank you.

From 0 to 10. I do not own that camera but I believe LR/ACR usually assigns 5500/10 for Daylight for every camera. This is shot above the water and the color temp may change...

 

[tvstaff]

Why is the tint pushed to +28? That is excessive in normal light. This adds more red and changes the color of the sky, for example.

Check the camera settings. Are there settings changed that may affect the AWB?

Hi Jacs what number were you expecting? Thank you.

From 0 to 10. I do not own that camera but I believe LR/ACR usually assigns 5500/10 for Daylight for every camera. This is shot above the water and the color temp may change...

Hi JACS,

Taking another photo with the same issue and using Photoshop, I'm getting a little better results. I'd LOVE to be closer shooting as opposed to correcting so much in post. I think taking the advice I got here I'll start in DAYLIGHT vs. AWB. The "magic bullet" of having the 1DX set to auto AWB being the solution... It's just not happening for me... I've tried ColorChecker and the subjects move and shift in light and shadows too much. I've tries the DISC that goes over the lens too. THIS IS TOUGH!!! When the subjects are backlit!!!







--
Feel Always Humble - "FAH" - You'll Learn More

http://tony6454.wix.com/aruba-kitesurfing

 

[J A C S]

Why is the tint pushed to +28? That is excessive in normal light. This adds more red and changes the color of the sky, for example.

Check the camera settings. Are there settings changed that may affect the AWB?

Hi Jacs what number were you expecting? Thank you.

From 0 to 10. I do not own that camera but I believe LR/ACR usually assigns 5500/10 for Daylight for every camera. This is shot above the water and the color temp may change...

Hi JACS,

Taking another photo with the same issue and using Photoshop, I'm getting a little better results. I'd LOVE to be closer shooting as opposed to correcting so much in post. I think taking the advice I got here I'll start in DAYLIGHT vs. AWB. The "magic bullet" of having the 1DX set to auto AWB being the solution... It's just not happening for me... I've tried ColorChecker and the subjects move and shift in light and shadows too much. I've tries the DISC that goes over the lens too. THIS IS TOUGH!!! When the subjects are backlit!!!

That is a great shot! I see nothing wrong now.

I am surprised that your 1DX (that I never used) has such AWB behavior. Make sure that your camera is not set to some custom picture style that would affect the AWB (?) In any case, using Daylight for a starting point in bright light usually works well. I found that often, the temp needs to be lowered to 5,000 or so, and the tint needs to be around 0.

My lowly 5D2 has a good AWB unless I shoot in tungsten light. I still tweak it often though.

 

[RGBCMYK]

Why is the tint pushed to +28? That is excessive in normal light. This adds more red and changes the color of the sky, for example.

Check the camera settings. Are there settings changed that may affect the AWB?

Hi Jacs what number were you expecting? Thank you.

From 0 to 10. I do not own that camera but I believe LR/ACR usually assigns 5500/10 for Daylight for every camera. This is shot above the water and the color temp may change...

Hi JACS,

Taking another photo with the same issue and using Photoshop, I'm getting a little better results. I'd LOVE to be closer shooting as opposed to correcting so much in post. I think taking the advice I got here I'll start in DAYLIGHT vs. AWB. The "magic bullet" of having the 1DX set to auto AWB being the solution... It's just not happening for me... I've tried ColorChecker and the subjects move and shift in light and shadows too much. I've tries the DISC that goes over the lens too. THIS IS TOUGH!!! When the subjects are backlit!!!



--
Feel Always Humble - "FAH" - You'll Learn More
http://tony6454.wix.com/aruba-kitesurfing

I am not talking about using the MacBeth Colorchecker Passport to do a custom white balance I am talking about using it to create a custom profile for your camera. Very different than creating a custom white balance, we are using reference colors and trying to make them the correct values when applied when your file is opened up in the software. Adobe creates a profile and this is what is applied to the raw data when your file is opened up, I find that creating a custom one might get you closer in the beginning than the canned one from Adobe. Your lens can impart a color and contrast that can be used to create the profile too--
Instagram feed @ chris_broughton
www.christopherbroughton.com

 

[tvstaff]

Why is the tint pushed to +28? That is excessive in normal light. This adds more red and changes the color of the sky, for example.

Check the camera settings. Are there settings changed that may affect the AWB?

Hi Jacs what number were you expecting? Thank you.

From 0 to 10. I do not own that camera but I believe LR/ACR usually assigns 5500/10 for Daylight for every camera. This is shot above the water and the color temp may change...

Hi JACS,

Taking another photo with the same issue and using Photoshop, I'm getting a little better results. I'd LOVE to be closer shooting as opposed to correcting so much in post. I think taking the advice I got here I'll start in DAYLIGHT vs. AWB. The "magic bullet" of having the 1DX set to auto AWB being the solution... It's just not happening for me... I've tried ColorChecker and the subjects move and shift in light and shadows too much. I've tries the DISC that goes over the lens too. THIS IS TOUGH!!! When the subjects are backlit!!!



--
Feel Always Humble - "FAH" - You'll Learn More
http://tony6454.wix.com/aruba-kitesurfing

I am not talking about using the MacBeth Colorchecker Passport to do a custom white balance I am talking about using it to create a custom profile for your camera. Very different than creating a custom white balance, we are using reference colors and trying to make them the correct values when applied when your file is opened up in the software. Adobe creates a profile and this is what is applied to the raw data when your file is opened up, I find that creating a custom one might get you closer in the beginning than the canned one from Adobe. Your lens can impart a color and contrast that can be used to create the profile too--
Instagram feed @ chris_broughton
www.christopherbroughton.com

Hi Chris, You make a great point here. Thank you.

I think "I' (did) assume that the AWB combined with Adobe's canned renditions would work flawlessly together or at least give me better starting point. However, I must say that when I shoot runway and set the camera to 3200 in some well hung rooms, I'm very happy. Like the Salon at Lincoln Center.

I will try and read up on MacBeth and see what I can find. I'm always dissapointed when what I see is not what comes out in my RAW files. After so many years of struggling in Post Production, it's time I took the effort to learn and utilize something like MacBeth to take my workflow to a better level.

THANK YOU!!!!!

Tony

--
Feel Always Humble - "FAH" - You'll Learn More

http://tony6454.wix.com/aruba-kitesurfing