Need technique for taking pictures in a dimly lit gym

[apara]

I have been asked to photograph a kids science fair which will be taking place in a somewhat dimly lit gym. I have a Canon 5DMKII with 580EX II flash and a bouce dome diffuser, however, at times I find that the lighting is still a bit too harsh.

I would like to get your opinion on how to accomplish:

1) Get better distribution of illumination from this flash. I have seen people using something that looks like a mini soft box on their flash, but I am not sure which one to get or how to choose the one I need.

2) Get faster recharge speeds and more flash activations (what kind of battery should I get?)

Sorry if these are basic questions, but I could not find anything relevant to 580EX II flash.

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-AP_

 

[Mike1999]

What kind of lens do you have? Have you thought about gelling your flash to match the gym lighting, and using it as fill to the ambient light?

 

[Graystar]

All the diffuser is doing is wasting light and batteries so get rid of it. Raise your ISO to 800 or even 1600. This better utilizes the ambient light so that you use less flash power. The resulting images will have a better balance of light, and not have that flash look. Also, because you’re using less light you’ll have faster recycle times and get more flashes.

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[apara]

I don't like the noise that starts to appear at high ISO rates.

I examined the last time I shot in the same environment and the ISO was already at 800. Flash was set to High Speed and the EF 35/1.4 lens I was using was set to 1.8. The pictures did not come out bad, I just wanted a more even/natural distribution of light.

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-AP_

 

[slowhands214238]

"Drag the shutter" - google it

 

[Cookster670]

I don't think dragging the shutter will help to be honest. Yes it will provide nice ambient light, but when dimly lit, I think it will introduce motion blur.

I think you need a flash modifier to create a lever apparent light source to produce a more flattering spread of light mixed with high iso (whatever suits your camera)

So at it's simplest a bounce card, but I would use something like a Demb flip-it.

You could "try" drag the shutter, and maybe you can find the right balance to get ambient and flash, but I'm not confident.

"Drag the shutter" - google it

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Nikon D7000. Nikon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Sigma 70-200 2.8 SB900 SB600

'I am a better critic than photographer'

 

[GHwell]

you have a 5d mark 2. you can easily shoot at ISO 3200 to 6400 and print up to 11 x 14 prints with next to no noise. Fi it is still too dark add a flash and a difuser

 

[GHwell]

clear up to 6400 ISO is great on this camera

 

[slowhands214238]

Drag the shutter...

• Get the BACKGROUND exposed by the ambient 'cause you will NEVER be able to flash the space...inverse square light falloff.
• Flash the SUBJECT to get proper exposure AND freeze any subject movement.

Boost ISO as far as acceptable to reduce the shutter duration and flash energy required/lengthen battery/shorten recycle time.

Yes, it's a balancing act, but, when done properly, the technique delivers what was requested by the OP.

No bounce card or diffuser is going to negate the inverse square light falloff of the flash and without dragging the shutter, the overall scene will be dark.

 

[Cookster670]

Slowhands...I use this technique a lot for event shooting, and found it works best in dark environments, ie nightclubs/parties..etc I can freeze dance action at 1/8 no problems using this technique

I have found that when there is still quite a bit of ambient light, then dragging the shutter means you get exposure from flash and ambient, and therefore motion blur. I have not yet found the balance that gets around this. (and for this reason have not spent much time trying it in real life situations)

Are you suggesting that it can be done ? If so, can you provide some tips ?

I was curious..so just did a test

it's morning here..so not too bright indoors. Auto exposure no flash would be 1/8
Got my son to move around and a 1/8 obvious motion blur

Then went to 1/15. Flash set to TTL (ie drag the shutter) same movement. His arm was frozen, but could see stuff behind it..ie his arm was translucent

1/30..seemed not to bad..motion was pretty much frozen, but ambient light was dark (well actually it was fine, but that was because i was using bounce flash indoors..when i shot at 1/30 with no flash, it was fairly dark and not representative of the actual amount of ambient light)

At 1/60 all was good for motion...but yes..ambient too low.

So from this very quick test...i think getting the balance will be tricky and you may have to accept exposing less ambient light or introducing some motion blur softness.

Thoughts ?

Drag the shutter...

• Get the BACKGROUND exposed by the ambient 'cause you will NEVER be able to flash the space...inverse square light falloff.
• Flash the SUBJECT to get proper exposure AND freeze any subject movement.

Boost ISO as far as acceptable to reduce the shutter duration and flash energy required/lengthen battery/shorten recycle time.

Yes, it's a balancing act, but, when done properly, the technique delivers what was requested by the OP.

No bounce card or diffuser is going to negate the inverse square light falloff of the flash and without dragging the shutter, the overall scene will be dark.

--
****************
Nikon D7000. Nikon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Sigma 70-200 2.8 SB900 SB600

'I am a better critic than photographer'

 

[slowhands214238]

I, too shoot dark and medium dark and "typical" gym events.

The OP has a 5D II which can go nice high ISO and give clean images, so boosting ISO will achieve the faster flash recycle / longer battery life and allow faster shutter criteria of the OP's equation.

It's a balancing act to be sure.