EP-1 owners. If you had to buy today....which would you get?

I would be very tempted by the new epl1 with its flash and accesory port - the EP2 is just too pricy for me... but i would still pick the ep1 because for me the IBIS is what i got the ep cam for to use old glass and the stabalizer is better in the ep1 than the epl1 - claimed 4 stop ove r3 i think, and I get by ok focusing with only the screen.
Only problem with the IBIS is that from the tests I've read, the EP1&2 never achieved a 4 stop improvement. Its possible that the difference between the E-P1 & E-PL1s IBIS is less than a stop - consider that the difference between 4 and 3 is one quarter. Hence from the tests I've seen, with a maybe two stop benefit, the improvement is half stop (two divided by four). And if you add the EVF to the E-PL1, the camera will be more steady, which will improve the stop factor much more than one quarter of a stop IMO. So with IBIS and the EVF, the E-Pl1 wins IMO.

Concerning the question of lenses, everyone says get the Pan 20mm f1.7. Only problem with that, is that the lens typically costs $US500, and discounted but tough to find, around $420.

Then look to the cost of putting on your 4/3 lenses. Add $200 to get the adapter. Wow - those two improvements alone add up to the cost of a whole E-PL1 kit, or E-P1 run out kit (presuming they will).

Now - if one buys the GF1 with the 20mm f1.7 for $1000, its a bit cheaper than buying either of the other options and getting the 20mm f1.7 lens as an extra. I also think it likely, that IBIS isn't mandatory when shooting with a 20mm lens.

Now if you add the adapter for you other lenses, what happens? You spend another $200, but you can use your older 4/3 glass. And then the camera explodes in bulk. Hmmm ... what about buying a compact 14-45 OIS m43 Pana lens? On ebay, they seem around $300 or so (a G1 with one is around $650). If you did that on a GF1, you have two lenses that are compact, one with OIS. And in a smaller pack than the Pen (because your old glass is bulkier). All for $100 bucks more ...

Its not an easy decision IMO. Which is why I am still vacillating. I reckon in time, my 43 glass won't be used ... If I through it all out, and bought Pana stuff, I'd be well setup. However, non of its water resistant, which complicates it all for me.

The cheapest thing though is an E-P1 and buy the ClearViewer instead of a proper EVF. Although the 230 dots won't work as well with a Clearviewer as the GF1's, I reckon its not a bad alternative to the quandary.

Also, is video an issue? That complicates things even more!!!!
 
I've also read that there are problems with the Oly 14-42 lens.

The good thing about the lens, is that it folds into itself and saves space.

The bad thing is that if one prints big or pixel peaps, some have said that the lens has shutter vibration which rattles the loose lenses (loose to enable it to compact itself), and hence between 35 to 42, the lens gets blurry on the bottom third of the picture (for pixel peapers or big prints and crops only though).

Hmmm ... so can we sell it after we buy are cameras? Well they aren't worth a huge amount second had it seems.

Just another complication!!

I reckon it comes down to what you'll mostly use it for ... if its as a pocket camera, I reckon the GF1 is the better proposition. And buy another OIS lens later on or second hand. Can't believe I am writing this, as I think I'll spend more money and get an Oly version, most likely the E-PL1 (despite loving the white E-P1's looks). Because there isn't anything around that would perform inside like my 11-22 lens. Which though, is a touch bulky ... its not an easy decision if your penny pinching ... and even if your not, a failing of the m43 system is the lack of a fast 12mm lens IMO.
 
A month ago I bought an EP-1 zoom kit with the FL-14 flash for $638 from B&H. I'm delighted with the camera and I don't really miss the viewfinder. I'm now waiting for the price of the Panasonic f1.7 lens to drop a bit... (I realize that I may have a long wait and I might have to give up and pay $400 or so.
Price of E-P1 zoom kit is $640 at BH. And FL-14 is 156$. How did you buy for $638?
 
When the time comes....I'll gladly sell one of you my E-P2 for $700. Cheers. I'll trade up/down to the E-PL1. Hehe
 
Got the E-P1 with 14-42 back in July. Have since added the 17 pancake and FL-14 Flash and am as happy as a pig in a mud wallow. And would do it again tomorrow if I had a chance to do it over.
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Soggy Bog
 
The PEN 1.... it's cheaper. It was the first, the chrome/black looks better to me. Don't need or use the EVF. Or I would wait for the EP-3. Just like the OM days, the OM2 was better but my fav. were the OM1 and 3. I think with the PEN's the cicle will repeat.

Regards.
 
No, not really, I shot for years with P&S digicams where the viewfinders weren't really usable anyway. I just had my E-P1 out in the snow and bright sunlight yesterday, and I could see the LCD perfectly well.

I also brought out my 5D because I was taking some shots of my grandchildren and wanted to make sure I got some keepers, but, to tell you the truth, there wasn't a world of difference between the shots from the 5D and the shots from the EP-1, and I had an "L" lens mounted on the 5D. They both looked great and, when I looked at them side by side, I was even more impressed with the E-P1--and I didn't have to mortgage the homestead to buy it. ;> )
 
Did not read Kirk's blog but from using the EP1 (and now the EP2) the lack of an EVF for composition - even in bright light - has never been a consideration or a problem with either. The only time I actually use the EVF is when I am using either older MF lenses or my Lensbaby (obviously MF also) because the EVF just makes it that much easier.

That said - the other "improvements" of the EP2 over the EP1 (aside from the EVF) don't really justify the price difference. While I like the Cross Processing Art Filter, I have not really used the Diorama one a lot. The AF on both seems identical in good light (perhaps a VERY slight improvement in low light on the EP2, seems to hunt less than the EP1 did) and there definitely seems an improvement in the flash exposure (I got a lot of over exposed flash shots with the EP1 using either the FL20 or the FL36R flash units).
And while I still prefer the retro look of the EP1, I don't really miss it.

So if price is a concern, then I would certainly look at the EP1. If not - then the EP2 with the EVF is better.
Steve
 
EPL1 isn't really my cup of tea, I like the twin thumbwheels of the EP1.

Love the EVF on the EP2, but that's effectively another $400-500. Ouch.
 
Definitely too much, I agree. EVF should not be $300+

I found a new EP1 too good to turn down with the 17mm lens and pulled the trigger with the 10% bing cashback. Got it for about $60 more than the 14-42mm would have been and I think I would prefer the smaller lens anyway. Guess I will be hanging around the m4/3rds forum a little longer now.

Thanks to all who chimed in.
EPL1 isn't really my cup of tea, I like the twin thumbwheels of the EP1.

Love the EVF on the EP2, but that's effectively another $400-500. Ouch.
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FWIW, I would definitely pick up the E-P1 again.

In terms of image quality, all the m4/3's will all have pretty much the same RAW image quality; the Olympus cameras will all have the same JPEG quality. I've seen some very sharp images from the stock 14-42mm, and using the IBIS I'm able to get acceptable shots down to 1/4s hand-held.

Personally I don't like the grip on the GF1 and am not exactly blown away by the EVF's. They're crisp and neato, but it seems like there's a bit of motion blur when you move the camera. Plus, I actually prefer composing using both eyes.

For a backup camera, the E-PL1 with a 4/3 adapter would also be fine, as long as you realize it's really made for the P&S crowd, not the DSLR user.
 
I'd buy it again today. It was just what I was looking for. I don't miss the EVF/OVF at all. Composing with the LCD is easy (and yes, I use the OVF on my dSLR all the time even though it also has live view).

I have both kit lenses and I find them both nice. I use the 17mm a little more probably because of the speed and size. I find the image quality from the 17mm just fine (also the 14-42 is nice).

If you don't absolutely have to have a flash or EVF, the E-P1 is a steal now. I thought it was a bargain when I bought new, and I still think that.
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Russ
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Even bad photography can be fun :)

 
1:- I don't want the big clumsy EVF which ships with the EP2, 2:- the GF1 doesn't interest me because I prefer the image quality and handling of the EP1 and there's no way I'd lose IBIS or the rear rollerdial 3:- the EPL1 misses as it doesn't even have ONE dial (not even a rubbish one which surrounds the arrows) and 4:- the EP1 is even more of a bargain than ever at current prices ......

the great thing about all of them is that the Panny 20mm works on the lot :)

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Please ignore the Typos, I'm the world's worst Typist

 
I bought my eP1 with the 14-42 a month ago. Now I´m waiting for a box with my new pana 20 1.7. I think at this moment ep1 is the best quality cost relacion product in the m 4/3 market.
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All we need is love
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I found a new EP1 too good to turn down with the 17mm lens and pulled the trigger with the 10% bing cashback.
I have the E-P1 and 17mm and am very happy with it. I think the 17mm often gets criticized unfairly because it's not as stellar as the Panasonic 20mm. But I think it's not a bad lens at all, just not a great one.
 
As an E-P1 owner, I would probably buy the E-P1 all over again today, simply for the fact that it is cheaper. I do contemplate getting an E-P2 however, because the EVF could be nice. I just don't think the extra price is worth it for me.
 

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