Tips for interior shooting.

sols · Jul 28, 2004

It has been requested of me to shoot the interior of apartments and houses for (the website of) a real-estate agency.
My camera is the DRebel, with 24-70L and 70-200L.

Ought I borrow or rent a wide-angle, or will the 24-70 do? If a wide-angle is nescesary, which? Canon 17-40, Sigma 15-30 or 12-24? And why?

As I've never done this before, I sure would appreciate any tips and ideas on how to do this. What time of day is best? Lights on or off, using natural window light? How to make the room appear larger or more homely? How to avoid clutter? Anything else?
Thanks very much in advance,
Sol

Peter Berressem · Jul 28, 2004

sols said:
It has been requested of me to shoot the interior of apartments and
houses for (the website of) a real-estate agency.
My camera is the DRebel, with 24-70L and 70-200L.
Ought I borrow or rent a wide-angle, or will the 24-70 do? If a
wide-angle is nescesary, which? Canon 17-40, Sigma 15-30 or 12-24?
And why?

If you want to avoid stitching several shots you need something in the range of 15mm. Sigma 15-30 isn't a bad choice.

sols said:
As I've never done this before, I sure would appreciate any tips
and ideas on how to do this. What time of day is best?

Daytime.
Lights on or off, using natural window light?

Use natural daylight, fill flash to ceiling or walls outside the frame. Lights on if the are visible in the shot.
How to make the room appear

sols said:
larger or more homely?

The wide angle will make it appear large enough. If you're after a decorated style, bring some props, as magazines, books etc. Have a look at how they do it in home&garden journals.
How to avoid clutter? Anything else?

sols said:
Thanks very much in advance,
Sol

--
Kind regards,
Peter B.
('Pardon my English. Still practising.')

Rod Romo · Jul 28, 2004

I'm a Real Estate agent and the photos the industry average needs the 24-70L should do just fine with. The wide side of the lens will catch more than enough unless it is a really small room like a bathroom but even then a good angle can do the trick. Something I have done to get the right shot in the past is to open the window go outside and remove the screen and then shoot into the room from there. Generally a nice wide shot of each room from its best angle should do the trick and bathrooms are usually not necessary unless they are uniquely extravagant.

Are the homes occupied, vacant or staged? If they are occupied then avoid pictures with others peoples personal items and not because of liability but rather so the potential buyer can better imagine it as "their's" Make sure to use plenty of light.

Also when you do your exterior shot try to get any vehicles moved away for a nice broad shot. I would make a quick call to the tech person at the MLS/Realty board and find out the exact maximum size specs you can use and how many per listing since they vary greatly with the many various MLS databases. Definitely go as big as possible as multiple picture listings are becoming very helpful to the trade. Depending on how many they allow you will know if you need to group some rooms. The agents Will want to use these photos for flyer's also so a hi-res file will also be useful for them to print with.

HTH

--
Rod

t
tttttt
t
t

My ministry website http://www.PtLPS.com

Mr Mike · Jul 28, 2004

Don't forget your tripod!!! and a TC-80N3 or RS-80N3 remote contoller, to avoid camera shake.

Shoot longer exposures without flash, if posible.

Even in a walkout basement with very little light, this shot looks better (to me) than trying to spread a flash across the room. It gives a feeling of what the room is really like.

17-40 on a 1D

Peter Berressem said:
sols said:

It has been requested of me to shoot the interior of apartments and
houses for (the website of) a real-estate agency.
My camera is the DRebel, with 24-70L and 70-200L.
Ought I borrow or rent a wide-angle, or will the 24-70 do? If a
wide-angle is nescesary, which? Canon 17-40, Sigma 15-30 or 12-24?
And why?

Click to expand...

If you want to avoid stitching several shots you need something in
the range of 15mm. Sigma 15-30 isn't a bad choice.

Peter Berressem said:

As I've never done this before, I sure would appreciate any tips
and ideas on how to do this. What time of day is best?

Click to expand...

Daytime.
Lights on or off, using natural window light?
Use natural daylight, fill flash to ceiling or walls outside the
frame. Lights on if the are visible in the shot.
How to make the room appear

Peter Berressem said:

larger or more homely?

Click to expand...

The wide angle will make it appear large enough. If you're after a
decorated style, bring some props, as magazines, books etc. Have a
look at how they do it in home&garden journals.
How to avoid clutter? Anything else?

Peter Berressem said:

Thanks very much in advance,
Sol

Click to expand...

--
Kind regards,
Peter B.
('Pardon my English. Still practising.')

sols · Jul 28, 2004

Peter Berressem said:
sols said:

It has been requested of me to shoot the interior of apartments and
houses for (the website of) a real-estate agency.
My camera is the DRebel, with 24-70L and 70-200L.
Ought I borrow or rent a wide-angle, or will the 24-70 do? If a
wide-angle is nescesary, which? Canon 17-40, Sigma 15-30 or 12-24?
And why?

Click to expand...

If you want to avoid stitching several shots you need something in
the range of 15mm. Sigma 15-30 isn't a bad choice.

Peter Berressem said:

As I've never done this before, I sure would appreciate any tips
and ideas on how to do this. What time of day is best?

Click to expand...

Daytime.
Lights on or off, using natural window light?
Use natural daylight, fill flash to ceiling or walls outside the
frame. Lights on if the are visible in the shot.
How to make the room appear

Peter Berressem said:

larger or more homely?

Click to expand...

The wide angle will make it appear large enough. If you're after a
decorated style, bring some props, as magazines, books etc. Have a
look at how they do it in home&garden journals.

Don't think I'll do a decorative style - neither I nor the agency are out to win any awards or get into an interior mag.

Just to record the propety as is. It does sound like good idea, though.
Thanks for taking the time.
All the best,
Sol

sols · Jul 28, 2004

Mr Mike wrote:

sols · Jul 28, 2004

Rod Romo said:
I'm a Real Estate agent and the photos the industry average needs
the 24-70L should do just fine with. The wide side of the lens
will catch more than enough unless it is a really small room like a
bathroom but even then a good angle can do the trick. Something I
have done to get the right shot in the past is to open the window
go outside and remove the screen and then shoot into the room from
there.

This is something I might not have thought of! LOL!

Generally a nice wide shot of each room from its best angle

Rod Romo said:
should do the trick

What do you think is the best angle? Of course, I realize that there cannot be any pat formula to follow by rote for everything, but in general, Do you shoot from a corner, low down or high up?

and bathrooms are usually not necessary unless

Rod Romo said:
they are uniquely extravagant.

Rod Romo said:
Are the homes occupied, vacant or staged? If they are occupied
then avoid pictures with others peoples personal items and not
because of liability but rather so the potential buyer can better
imagine it as "their's" Make sure to use plenty of light.

Usualy occupied, sometimes not. When you say "avoid," do you mean to physically remove the paintings off the wall and silk roses from the mantelpiece, or to just shoot from a different angle, thereby not including them in the shot?

Rod Romo said:
Also when you do your exterior shot try to get any vehicles moved
away for a nice broad shot. I would make a quick call to the tech
person at the MLS/Realty board and find out the exact maximum size
specs you can use and how many per listing since they vary greatly
with the many various MLS databases. Definitely go as big as
possible as multiple picture listings are becoming very helpful to
the trade. Depending on how many they allow you will know if you
need to group some rooms. The agents Will want to use these photos
for flyer's also so a hi-res file will also be useful for them to
print with.

I'll be going together with one of the agents, so they'll take care of this. However, I'll probably shoot large/fine. Maybe RAW. Which do you do?
Thank you again for taking the time to help.
Regards,
Sol

lonnit · Jul 28, 2004

sols said:
Peter Berressem said:

sols said:

It has been requested of me to shoot the interior of apartments and
houses for (the website of) a real-estate agency.
My camera is the DRebel, with 24-70L and 70-200L.
Ought I borrow or rent a wide-angle, or will the 24-70 do? If a
wide-angle is nescesary, which? Canon 17-40, Sigma 15-30 or 12-24?
And why?

Click to expand...

If you want to avoid stitching several shots you need something in
the range of 15mm. Sigma 15-30 isn't a bad choice.

sols said:

As I've never done this before, I sure would appreciate any tips
and ideas on how to do this. What time of day is best?

Click to expand...

Daytime.
Lights on or off, using natural window light?
Use natural daylight, fill flash to ceiling or walls outside the
frame. Lights on if the are visible in the shot.
How to make the room appear

sols said:

larger or more homely?

Click to expand...

The wide angle will make it appear large enough. If you're after a
decorated style, bring some props, as magazines, books etc. Have a
look at how they do it in home&garden journals.

Click to expand...

Don't think I'll do a decorative style - neither I nor the agency
are out to win any awards or get into an interior mag. Just to
record the propety as is. It does sound like good idea, though.
Thanks for taking the time.
All the best,
Sol

They would love the props to make it more inviting, if they are using this for sales. Insurance shots don't have to be pretty. If you're trying to sell real estate, if you're any kind of a salesman, you want the most inviting, salable shot you can get! Personally I'm appalled at the shots I see in the real estate section of the paper. I swear they must go out of their way to find the worst possible shots!!!

Warmly,
Lonnit

--
Please visit my gallery at http://pbase.com/lonnit

and offer your comments. The fastest way for me to learn is when you tell me what I'm doing right and what I'm doing wrong, what you like and what you don't. I welcome all opinions.

WARNING: 10D-itis is contagious!!!!!!!

sols · Jul 28, 2004

lonnit said:
They would love the props to make it more inviting, if they are
using this for sales. Insurance shots don't have to be pretty. If
you're trying to sell real estate, if you're any kind of a
salesman, you want the most inviting, salable shot you can get!

I am not an agent, nor am I trying to sell property. The agency contacted m to photograph their list of homes. Nonetheless, you're right about needing the most inviting, saleable shot.

lonnit said:
Personally I'm appalled at the shots I see in the real estate
section of the paper. I swear they must go out of their way to find
the worst possible shots!!!

I think this applies to any shot found in any section of the papers!

lonnit said:
Warmly,
Lonnit

Thanks for your feedback.
Sol

john pringle · Jul 28, 2004

There are a few lessons you should look into,
One is excellent composition,
Two is excellent exposure,
Three is nodal point if needed,
Four is using PS perspective control.
Have a good tripod, a bubble level.
Learn how to look at ambient lighting as it mix with the interior lighting.
Meter every single light source.
Have a color meter available.
Write down EVERYTHING.
Preconcieve before you shoot and shoot with CONFIDENCE.
Enjoy your day and have a ball...
:O)

break a leg (just kidding)

--
I love photography

sols · Jul 29, 2004

jpringlephoto said:
There are a few lessons you should look into,
One is excellent composition,

Could you elaborate on this one? I know all about good composition in landscapes - my forte, but not what a good compo is for interiors.

john pringle said:
Two is excellent exposure,

Therefore, you'd suggest shooting in RAW, right?

john pringle said:
Three is nodal point if needed,

such as when?

john pringle said:
Four is using PS perspective control.

What's that?

john pringle said:
Have a good tripod, a bubble level.

Ok

john pringle said:
Learn how to look at ambient lighting as it mix with the interior
lighting.

And do what with it? A mix of natural window light and florescent or tungsten is good or bad?

john pringle said:
Meter every single light source.

For excellent exposure, I assume.

john pringle said:
Have a color meter available.

Why?

john pringle said:
Write down EVERYTHING.

Good idea

john pringle said:
Preconcieve before you shoot and shoot with CONFIDENCE.

LOL

john pringle said:
Enjoy your day and have a ball...

Thanks a lot!
Sol

john pringle said:
:O)

break a leg (just kidding)

--
I love photography

Graham Snook · Jul 29, 2004

I shoot a lot of interiors, mostly yachts, motorboats and superyachts

1st off, you've made your life so much easier shooting on digital, gone are the days of balancing lights/colour temps and filters, you've got it easy now

Here's the way I work:

Before I start, wear dark colours, nothing white, nothing red, nothing with big logos they can reflect in windows, glasswear mirrors or varnished surfaces and you'll see yourself in the finished pix

1, Decide where the photograph will be shot from, and move your bags, coats and any thing else of yours behind you or out of shot. Try not to shoot towards windows they will burn out the detail within the room.

2, Make sure there is nothing reflecting you, your tripod, your bags or your camera in the shot...for mirrors, either prop something behind them to angle them out of the way or drop yourself low enough so you are out of shot, use chairs to hide behind if you need to. Make sure no one walks into the view of the mirror or past a window during shooting.

3, Tidy the shot, make sure the curtains are tidy and throws are nicely folded, arrange cushions, remove anything unsightly like cuddly toys/pictures/tat from the sideboard etc, smooth down the sofa/bed to remove creases or marks (depending on the material) remove magazines (they date a photograph) it's better to stay with books, they are timeless.

4, Decide the light you want to leave on/switch off and take a CWB in an area of open lighting, i.e. not too close to a lightbulb if the room is lit by daylight and vice versa.

5, Take ambient light readings from around the room and average them out to give you your exposure (slow shutter high ish aperature)

6, Take the shot and bracket either side, and review the result, moving lights etc accordingly, then I usually shoot 3 on AWB as a backup.

or for steps 4,5,6 if you don't have time or a light meter, set your camera to AWB and bracket from -1/2 - +2 stops...it won't give you the best results but if you are being rushed it's a workaround.

G
--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-Always give the client a vertical-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
I shoot on 1.D.s, 35mm and 6x7 Pentax
http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=280578

David (r00t) · Jul 29, 2004

Has the 17-40 ever been a shortcoming on the 1D? I used to shoot with my D100 and a 12-24. Now with my 1D, I can't decide between:

Sigma:12-24
Sigma:15-30
Canon:17-40

Currently, I use the Sigma 15mm fisheye on my 1D.

Thanks

....BTW - nice work.

--
David

My fun galleries:
http://www.imagestation.com/member/?name=r00t&c=201

My side job:
http://www.davidsavkovic.com

'Photography is the art of not pushing the button.' - Frank Horvat

David (r00t) · Jul 29, 2004

Can you get a grid screen for the D-Rebel? Also, the times you shoot. I avoid shooting at high noon or if the sun comes screaming into some rooms.

Yes, its unavoidable at time, but I prefer later in the evening and sunset. Some great colors can be captured.

Shoot RAW/Jpeg. Offer the JPEGs for viewing(online) and RAWs for purchasing - saves time rather than processing EVERY Raw to find out they only want 1 or 2.

Lights, lights, lights....watch those lights and blow outs. No flash and some external lighting from you would help. I use softboxes.

Watch the reflections and distractions. Keep an eye on every detail you capture.

Check out magazines. Most captures are eye-level or lower. No angles, straight captures.

You can see some stuff in my link below. I am not a pro nor do I claim to be. My later interior pictures get better....I am just having fun and so should you.

Items to buy:

1. I would go with a wide angle lens or Sigma 15mm fisheye (held properly, you won't need to defish).
2. Soft box or strobes for additional lighting.

3. Some small lights to lighten up corners, under tables, etc...if the rooms are furnished.
4. Tripod

5. Remote release cable ( make sure you have mirror lock up - don't want that jiggle)
6. Light meter (Sekonik 358 is awesome)
7. Some props (if you need them).
8. Extension cords.
9. Reflectors to control lighting.

That should do it, I think...

--
David

My fun galleries:
http://www.imagestation.com/member/?name=r00t&c=201

My side job:
http://www.davidsavkovic.com

'Photography is the art of not pushing the button.' - Frank Horvat

sols · Jul 29, 2004

...write everything down, and take it with!
Thanks for your contributions!
Sol

Graham Snook said:
I shoot a lot of interiors, mostly yachts, motorboats and superyachts

1st off, you've made your life so much easier shooting on digital,
gone are the days of balancing lights/colour temps and filters,
you've got it easy now

Here's the way I work:

Before I start, wear dark colours, nothing white, nothing red,
nothing with big logos they can reflect in windows, glasswear
mirrors or varnished surfaces and you'll see yourself in the
finished pix

1, Decide where the photograph will be shot from, and move your
bags, coats and any thing else of yours behind you or out of shot.
Try not to shoot towards windows they will burn out the detail
within the room.

2, Make sure there is nothing reflecting you, your tripod, your
bags or your camera in the shot...for mirrors, either prop
something behind them to angle them out of the way or drop yourself
low enough so you are out of shot, use chairs to hide behind if you
need to. Make sure no one walks into the view of the mirror or past
a window during shooting.

3, Tidy the shot, make sure the curtains are tidy and throws are
nicely folded, arrange cushions, remove anything unsightly like
cuddly toys/pictures/tat from the sideboard etc, smooth down the
sofa/bed to remove creases or marks (depending on the material)
remove magazines (they date a photograph) it's better to stay with
books, they are timeless.

4, Decide the light you want to leave on/switch off and take a CWB
in an area of open lighting, i.e. not too close to a lightbulb if
the room is lit by daylight and vice versa.

5, Take ambient light readings from around the room and average
them out to give you your exposure (slow shutter high ish aperature)

6, Take the shot and bracket either side, and review the result,
moving lights etc accordingly, then I usually shoot 3 on AWB as a
backup.

or for steps 4,5,6 if you don't have time or a light meter, set
your camera to AWB and bracket from -1/2 - +2 stops...it won't give
you the best results but if you are being rushed it's a workaround.

G
--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-Always give the client a vertical-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
I shoot on 1.D.s, 35mm and 6x7 Pentax
http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=280578

sols · Jul 29, 2004

David (r00t) said:
Can you get a grid screen for the D-Rebel?

What is a grid screen? To ensure a level shot?

Also, the times you

David (r00t) said:
shoot. I avoid shooting at high noon or if the sun comes screaming
into some rooms.

Good idea

David (r00t) said:
Yes, its unavoidable at time, but I prefer later in the evening and
sunset. Some great colors can be captured.

Even indoors???

David (r00t) said:
Shoot RAW/Jpeg. Offer the JPEGs for viewing(online) and RAWs for
purchasing - saves time rather than processing EVERY Raw to find
out they only want 1 or 2.

I think they want only for the web. I don't know why not have prints in the office - but they're paying...

David (r00t) said:
Lights, lights, lights....watch those lights and blow outs. No
flash and some external lighting from you would help. I use
softboxes.

I normally shoot landscapes. I don't have lighting equimpent. I'll just run it through PS to bring ut shadow detail.

David (r00t) said:
Watch the reflections and distractions. Keep an eye on every
detail you capture.

mm hmm

David (r00t) said:
Check out magazines. Most captures are eye-level or lower. No
angles, straight captures

By "angles" you mean diagonal "horizon" shots?

David (r00t) said:
You can see some stuff in my link below. I am not a pro nor do I
claim to be. My later interior pictures get better....I am just
having fun and so should you.

Which album are the interiors in?

David (r00t) said:
Items to buy:
1. I would go with a wide angle lens or Sigma 15mm fisheye (held
properly, you won't need to defish).

Which wide-angle zoom? 15-30 or 12-24? Or even 17-40?

David (r00t) said:
2. Soft box or strobes for additional lighting.

I'll have to think about this one...

David (r00t) said:
3. Some small lights to lighten up corners, under tables, etc...if
the rooms are furnished.

ditto (probably PS, as above)

David (r00t) said:
4. Tripod

check

David (r00t) said:
5. Remote release cable ( make sure you have mirror lock up - don't
want that jiggle)

check

David (r00t) said:
6. Light meter (Sekonik 358 is awesome)

right

David (r00t) said:
7. Some props (if you need them).

good idea

David (r00t) said:
8. Extension cords.

for the lighting equipment, right?

David (r00t) said:
9. Reflectors to control lighting.

uh huh

David (r00t) said:
That should do it, I think...

Thanks so much for taking the time.
Sol

David (r00t) · Jul 29, 2004

sols said:
David (r00t) said:

Can you get a grid screen for the D-Rebel?

Click to expand...

What is a grid screen? To ensure a level shot?

Yes, I use mine all the time. Its easier than trying to eyeball the shot.

sols said:
Also, the times you

sols said:

shoot. I avoid shooting at high noon or if the sun comes screaming
into some rooms.

Click to expand...

Good idea

sols said:

Yes, its unavoidable at time, but I prefer later in the evening and
sunset. Some great colors can be captured.

Click to expand...

Even indoors???

Yes, I am sometimes able to catch the sun streaming in through the windows and casting a nice shadow of the window frames on the furniture. Plus the nice orange glow is nice...sometimes.

sols said:
sols said:

Shoot RAW/Jpeg. Offer the JPEGs for viewing(online) and RAWs for
purchasing - saves time rather than processing EVERY Raw to find
out they only want 1 or 2.

Click to expand...

I think they want only for the web. I don't know why not have
prints in the office - but they're paying...

sols said:

Lights, lights, lights....watch those lights and blow outs. No
flash and some external lighting from you would help. I use
softboxes.

Click to expand...

I normally shoot landscapes. I don't have lighting equimpent.
I'll just run it through PS to bring ut shadow detail.

Watch the noise levels when doing that. I am still learning too. I had a pro photographer tell me that the quote he uses in his photography classes is "Just because you can fix it in Photoshop, doesn't mean you should." - ouch...I now am trying to get the best I can right from the shot. I am purchasing a slew of lights in the next few weeks....

sols said:
sols said:

Watch the reflections and distractions. Keep an eye on every
detail you capture.

Click to expand...

mm hmm

sols said:

Check out magazines. Most captures are eye-level or lower. No
angles, straight captures

Click to expand...

By "angles" you mean diagonal "horizon" shots?

Sorry, I meant to watch the angles that some people do of rooms, where they aim down or up and get some weird angle shots that makes the room look somewhat triangular.

sols said:
sols said:

You can see some stuff in my link below. I am not a pro nor do I
claim to be. My later interior pictures get better....I am just
having fun and so should you.

Click to expand...

Which album are the interiors in?

Here is one link:
http://www.davidsavkovic.com/bf/bfshoot2/index.htm

sols said:
sols said:

Items to buy:
1. I would go with a wide angle lens or Sigma 15mm fisheye (held
properly, you won't need to defish).

Click to expand...

Which wide-angle zoom? 15-30 or 12-24? Or even 17-40?

Good question, I read that the 12-24 is soft unless you go over f8. Well for interiors, you will. I shoot between f10 and f16. For your camera, I would go for the 12-24 (1.5x crop).

sols said:
sols said:

2. Soft box or strobes for additional lighting.

Click to expand...

I'll have to think about this one...

Yes, it can get very expensive. I have about $800 invested in lights and am gearing up to spend about $1000 more.

sols said:
sols said:

3. Some small lights to lighten up corners, under tables, etc...if
the rooms are furnished.

Click to expand...

ditto (probably PS, as above)

sols said:

4. Tripod

Click to expand...

check

sols said:

5. Remote release cable ( make sure you have mirror lock up - don't
want that jiggle)

Click to expand...

check

sols said:

6. Light meter (Sekonik 358 is awesome)

Click to expand...

right

sols said:

7. Some props (if you need them).

Click to expand...

good idea

I will usually bring a center piece floral arrangement, candles, wine glasses, empty wine bottles (fill with water on location), white grape juice (for the wine glasses), lighters (candles) - candle should either be burning or have the wick burnt. Unburnt candles look more like props than a part of the house.

sols said:
sols said:

8. Extension cords.

Click to expand...

for the lighting equipment, right?

Yes.

sols said:
sols said:

9. Reflectors to control lighting.

Click to expand...

uh huh

Foam board should be ok. Also, those car windshield covers.

sols said:
sols said:

That should do it, I think...

Click to expand...

Thanks so much for taking the time.
Sol

My gosh, forgot the most important thing. Rule of thirds! EeeeeK. Definitly read up on this. That is another reason for the grid screen (not sure if you can change yours...)

Here is a small link:
http://www.palmettobayinc.com/PhotoTutorials/thirds.html
http://graphicssoft.about.com/library/glossary/bldefruleofthirds.htm

Also just a Google search...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=rule+of+thirds

Take a look at some interior magazines and imagine the rule of thirds. Notice how there is usually something in the foreground (table, chair, couch) dark then as you go deeper in the photo it lightens up. I so try to achieve that look. Its hard...

Ok, that should be it for now. Later you can get some cool books like:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0240516729/ref=pd_bxgy_text_1/102-4810993-5068906?v=glance&s=books&st=*#product-details

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/2880466717/ref=pd_sim_books_2/102-4810993-5068906?v=glance&s=books

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1890449075/ref=pd_sim_books_3/102-4810993-5068906?v=glance&s=books
--
David

My fun galleries:
http://www.imagestation.com/member/?name=r00t&c=201

My side job:
http://www.davidsavkovic.com

'Photography is the art of not pushing the button.' - Frank Horvat

sols · Jul 29, 2004

David (r00t) said:
Sorry, I meant to watch the angles that some people do of rooms,
where they aim down or up and get some weird angle shots that makes
the room look somewhat triangular.

You tend to get that with ultra-wide-angles when pointing camera up or down.

David (r00t) said:
David (r00t) said:

Which album are the interiors in?

Click to expand...

Here is one link:
http://www.davidsavkovic.com/bf/bfshoot2/index.htm

This is what I'm impressed with! Especially the first shot. What were the settings?

David (r00t) said:
David (r00t) said:

Which wide-angle zoom? 15-30 or 12-24? Or even 17-40?

Click to expand...

Good question, I read that the 12-24 is soft unless you go over f8.
Well for interiors, you will. I shoot between f10 and f16. For
your camera, I would go for the 12-24 (1.5x crop).

I may just rent it for a time. (1.6x crop, BTW)

David (r00t) said:
David (r00t) said:

David (r00t) said:

2. Soft box or strobes for additional lighting.

Click to expand...

I'll have to think about this one...

Click to expand...

Yes, it can get very expensive. I have about $800 invested in
lights and am gearing up to spend about $1000 more.

LOL

David (r00t) said:
David (r00t) said:

David (r00t) said:

7. Some props (if you need them).

Click to expand...

good idea

Click to expand...

I will usually bring a center piece floral arrangement, candles,
wine glasses, empty wine bottles (fill with water on location),
white grape juice (for the wine glasses), lighters (candles) -
candle should either be burning or have the wick burnt. Unburnt
candles look more like props than a part of the house.

More good tips...

David (r00t) said:
David (r00t) said:

David (r00t) said:

9. Reflectors to control lighting.

Click to expand...

uh huh

Click to expand...

Foam board should be ok. Also, those car windshield covers.

I've (mis?)used these before.

David (r00t) said:
My gosh, forgot the most important thing. Rule of thirds! EeeeeK.
Definitly read up on this. That is another reason for the grid
screen (not sure if you can change yours...)

I'm a landscape guy. I know all anout the rule of 3rds.

David (r00t) said:
Here is a small link:
http://www.palmettobayinc.com/PhotoTutorials/thirds.html
http://graphicssoft.about.com/library/glossary/bldefruleofthirds.htm

Also just a Google search...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=rule+of+thirds

Take a look at some interior magazines and imagine the rule of
thirds. Notice how there is usually something in the foreground
(table, chair, couch) dark then as you go deeper in the photo it
lightens up. I so try to achieve that look. Its hard...

I'll practise in my own home first, for this (and other) effect(s). Hey, that's a good tip!

David (r00t) said:
Ok, that should be it for now. Later you can get some cool books
like:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0240516729/ref=pd_bxgy_text_1/102-4810993-5068906?v=glance&s=books&st=*#product-details

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/2880466717/ref=pd_sim_books_2/102-4810993-5068906?v=glance&s=books

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1890449075/ref=pd_sim_books_3/102-4810993-5068906?v=glance&s=books
--
David

Mr Mike · Jul 29, 2004

There has never been anytime, for me, that I needed anything wider than the 17-40 (21.1-52 on the 1D). I am very pleased with the quality of the images I get from the lens and it is also very light.

But I don't shoot a lot of interiors or landscapes. The one I posted, I was squeezed as far back into the corner as possible!

I like the reach better than the 16-35. 40mm gives me a "normal" lens.

Shortcomings would be, of course, the f/4 limit. Shooting handheld indoors with low light doesn't work very well – I don't like noise. The MK II would make this a better lens in low(er) light. I hoping the MK III will make it a low light lens!

The 15mm fisheye looks like fun, but I don't have much use for one right now.

The 12-24 sounds very interesting too, but again not much use to me at this time.

Thank you for the compliment. My client - who built the bar & ceiling - printed a 20x30 for their show room and trade shows.

David (r00t) said:
Has the 17-40 ever been a shortcoming on the 1D? I used to shoot
with my D100 and a 12-24. Now with my 1D, I can't decide between:

Sigma:12-24
Sigma:15-30
Canon:17-40

Currently, I use the Sigma 15mm fisheye on my 1D.

Thanks ....BTW - nice work.

--
David

My fun galleries:
http://www.imagestation.com/member/?name=r00t&c=201

My side job:
http://www.davidsavkovic.com

'Photography is the art of not pushing the button.' - Frank Horvat

Diane B · Jul 29, 2004

Mr Mike said:
Don't forget your tripod!!! and a TC-80N3 or RS-80N3 remote
contoller, to avoid camera shake.

Shoot longer exposures without flash, if posible.

Even in a walkout basement with very little light, this shot looks
better (to me) than trying to spread a flash across the room. It
gives a feeling of what the room is really like.

I agree with all the above. I much prefer interior shots (if possible) using available light. If you have a very dark interior and very bright exterior, you might put your 550EX (forget if this is the flash you are using--sorry) on manual (manual flash as opposed to ETTL) and just add a wee bit of foreground flash--without being 'flashy'.

OTOH---if you are shooting these interiors in order to show the rooms at their best and if there are large window areas, then you will probably be better off to use ETTL flash, use M, choose ISO, shutter speed and aperture to capture the room with a bit of detail in/beyond the windows besides 'white glare' (many clients hate blank 'white' window) and a correctly exposed interior. Its going to be a matter of preference of your client. The nonflash, available light pics are often lovely for magazine type shots, but not necessarily what will help sell the product. If I were you, I would try to get some input from the client on their preferences first.

My commercial work is very specific--interior room settings for furniture manufacturers, so consequently I do use flash-2/550, 1/420 on stands with umbrellas, but when I am shooting home interiors, I tend to go with available light. My mainstay lens is the Sigma 15-30 (I love using the 15mm FE, but its not reasonable for this use). The 20mm is generally not wide enough, but I carry it and also the 24-70L for closer work, but the 15-30 on tripod/remote is great for interiors.

--
Diane B
black and white lover, but color is seducing me
http://www.pbase.com/picnic/galleries

Tips for interior shooting.

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