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S1 Tips and Hints - Compilation

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DavZell

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DavZell said:
The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
"Controls: just because i am so happy to have found a way to save power with my S1:

i like keeping the camera powered on when taking a series of pictures (e.g. at a concert, a lecture, a talk etc.) but i was

not very happy to see the EVF or the display on all the time wasting valuable power.

what am i doing now? in the menu (mode for taking pictures) i chose the ""sleep"" mode for the jump button (the button with

the square and the arrow) on the rear side of the camera. this means whenever i press that button now i toggle between EVF/

display on and off."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Controls: I find using the Shortcut button quite handy. Give it a try if you haven't set one (there are seven choices).

My G3 didn't have this feature, but I like the ability to set White Balance (it's one function I forget to change often) with

one touch of the shortcut button.

----

I agree, John: the shortcut button is a great feature.

I use it practically on every shot for locking the auto exposure. If I have a contrasty subject, I select a framing that

includes more lighter areas or more darker areas, depending on how bright I want my main subject to be. Example: Person in the

middle of the frame looks too bright in the viewfinder; pan up to the sky (or bright trees) a bit, lock the exposure with the

shortcut button, pan back to the person, see if he's no longer too bright. Repeat if necessary until subject brightness looks

good. Focus and shoot.

This sounds a lot more complicated than it is in practice. It's actually quite intuitive and direct. Admittedly, though, it

works best for methodical shooting, not snapshots. And I find it faster than exposure compensation via the function buttons.

(Tip: To try this out, set the metering pattern to ""spot"" so that exposure changes become much more visible and dramatic.

You can actually hear the lens' iris opening and closing. In practice, though, I prefer the integrated metering pattern.

One limitation, though: this method is no good for series shooting since the locked exposure is lost once the shutter release

button is pressed. Or does anyone know a workaround for this? (On my old analogue Canon T-90, the exposure remains locked no

matter how many frames you shoot -- just as long as you keep the shutter release button pressed to the first pressure point.

Keeping the shortcut button pressed on the S-1 doesn't work.)"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Controls: For switching from LCD to Viewfinder, just use the window to switch (open to use the lcd, close not completely

will switch to the viewfinder). It is much faster. At least for me, that's how I do it. And I use the Custom (C) for another

set up of my preferences (so I can switch from day light to low light, or outdoors and indoors, or whatever)"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Controls:

If you dont release your finger after you shoot the pic, the photo stays on the LCD/EVF forever.

This allows you to set the photo preview to 0 secs. This makes it a lot easier to take actions shots.

If you ever want to preview a pic, just keep your finger pressed

----

And if you press the ""Display"" button before you press and hold the shutter you get the histogram straight away

----

then you can let go and decide to trash or even to add sound...."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Controls: I don't know whether this Tip has been mentioned, but the S1 P Mode (Program) allows program shift for exposure.

Here's how:

In P mode, when you half press the shutter and a combination of Aperture and Speed are diplayed, press the Exposure Lock

button (* is displayed on LCD or EVF). Toggle the four way controller left or right to change the combination of aperture/

speed without changing the exposure. Note: this will not work with the flash ON.

----

Hey that's a good tip. Now I can increase DOF without going to AV?
After > 3000 pics with the S1...
Serves me right for not reading the manual.

----

I haven't tried the AEL yet. Good idea. I like to use FE lock (flash exposure lock) it seems the flash recycles faster but

then again maybe I just want it to be faster and it is all in my head :-)"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"
 
DavZell said:
The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
"Focus: I know it's S1's feeature to allow me freely select the focus point. But That really takes time with the omni

selector. For still objects OK, but for portrait, my people get bored while I am trying to get the focus point right. I end up

with just use the center focus. I first put the people in the center and half press to focuse, then recompose the pic so my

people is at 1/3 of the pic, then I shoot.

----

Same here. IMO, its far faster to center focus and recompose than to play around with adjusting the focus spot chosen by the

digicam. You're already busy with checking focus let alone checking where it focused on."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Focus:

I tried zooming to 380mm then locking focus at something in the distance. The camera stays on focus after that unless you zoom

back all the way to 380 mm. It seems to have problems focusing at all with that lock on if you go beyond say 300 mm. But this

does of course mean that you've now got a 8x zoom camcorder which stays in focus all the time. Works for me…"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Focus:

Anyone find the S1's is not as sharp in the higher f-stops? Seems to perform well within f4- f6.

----

My understanding - from an article I read previously (don't ask when or where because I can't recall the specifics) - stated

that a lens' sharpest points are generally 2 stops from the highest/lowest. I can't say if that meant the second stop from end

or 2 stops in between but in either case, your observation would ring true.

Assuming the first theory (and the validity of the original article, same lighting/situation etc...)

f2.8, f3.1/3.2, f3.5, f4.0, f4.5, f5.0, f5.6, f6.3, f7.1, f8.0

... the sharpest f-stops would be between f3.5 and f6.3

With the second interpretation it would mean the sharpest points would lie between f4.0 and f5.6

----

Look at this thread
http://forums.dpreview.com/ ... ... read.asp?forum=1010&message=9014326

seems applicable for all Canon camera as long as you resize your pics into the resolution that camera can save. When you want

to do presentation and slideshow with edited pics on a TV set, this could be very useful."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Focus:
Could anyone babytalk me into applying the following low light trick ?

I have a french documentation, and I'm not sure of what ""set manual focus to 10'"" means :P

And I'm so frustrated with low light focusing I think I might just return it for an olympus UZ (had a C730 UZ just previously,

didn't have that kind of issues...).

Thanks for your help,

Fabrice
DavZell said:
Low light focus problems?
Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you
should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.
Click to expand...
xxxx

Fabrice,

10' = 10 feet = 3 meters, plus ou moins, ...

Hope this helps"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Focus: Maybe this is a tip?.......AF is analagous to auto transmission - if you never learn to drive a stick shift, what

will you do when an occasion arises that you have to?

Some of us grew up before range finders on cameras, and had to estimate distance. Then came RF, which made life easier if

still two-step. Then coupled RF to lens, incl SLR. Finally AF. But I do a lot of action shooting with my film cameras, and

never use AF.

Turn off the AF and use the camera without it for extended periods of time. Film is not an issue so you can make lots of

mistakes. In the process, you will come to feel comfortable and quite proficient without it.

Final point...these little cameras have such depth of field that in most cases below five times zoom, you can leave them set

at an estimated distance and everything will still be in focus. And at higher zooms where you are much farther away from the

subject, an rough estimate will still be OK.

And I try to explain to folk that just because it has 10X, that doesn't mean you should be lazy and use it when you can move

closer without a problem. Extended zoom always degrades the basic image somewhat, with the additional impact of camera

movement."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Focus: After your shot don't release your finger completely, you'll still have the green bracket ready for the next shot so

you can shoot away as many pictures as you want and time it without loss of pre-focus or freeze. Practice it works.

Review off. (remember you can hold to view your last picture)

That's found ... Menu button/Review/Off"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"
 
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
 
DavZell said:
The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
"Low Light: Low light focus problems?

Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will

be in focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for

Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Low Light: ""Any prosumer digicam is going to have difficulty in low-light except for sony cameras, and even those cameras

have difficulty. The best thing to do is manual focus on your subject when it is too dim for autofocus. There is a trick

though with the S1. Basically if you set the custom button on the S1 to Auto focus lock and then turn on the Red eye

reduction, you can have an AF Assist Illuminator. Just use the custom button to focus and whalla, your subject is in focus! It

works up to about 3-5 feet. I've tried it in complete darkness and it works amazingly!"""

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Low Light: Although a really good AF assist beam would be great (i.e., one like the Sony's laser beam), I find the S1's auto

focus in dim light to be acceptable.

The trick is to go wide angle at night rather than use the zoom. At telephoto settings, there's so little light getting

through to the sensor, it's understandable. Even my DRebel has problems autofocusing in dim light with AF assist beam when I'm

zoomed-in.

The other options are to use a flash light to illuminiate your target while you prefocus, manually focus or manually set for

hyperfocal as someone has mentioned previously.

BTW, the S1 was able to get AF lock in dim light almost as well as my DRebel. I was quite impressed."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Misc:

You need an ambar/yellow filter to ad drama to a sun set picture? NO prob. Set your S1's manual white balance while aiming at

a yelloish paper. I should work with other colors.

Here is a sample shoot withe the white balance set to a yellowish tone. Its shoot at about 8:00pm the sun coming down. Shot

from a bus running at 100km/hour aiming at a bike going much faster.

----

Now that's really creative - I have my Jump button set to white balance anyway.

----

If you do that in-camera, you're stuck with the image. If you take the photo normally and then play with it in a photo editor,

you can do anything ""filter"" you want and then change it back if you want to."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Misc:

If you find the right hand grip on your S1 to be a bit slippery, here's a Tip for better gripping. Add a small piece of

gaffer tape or two-sided mounting tape (the kind used for sticking notes on refrigerators, etc.)to the grip area. It will

increase gripping power quite a bit. It's not as thick as it looks in the image here.

See image here:

http://www.pbase.com/image/30205139 "

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Misc: At the request of several other testers, I am honored to advise (whew!) that one should turn off IS when shooting with

a tripod.

The degree of image degradation varies with the conditions and at times it may not appear significant - but it does exist. At

slower shutter speeds, the impact is significant.

For further details, see http://forums.dpreview.com/ ... ... read.asp?forum=1010&message=9406740

----

Don't know whether this link was posted, but here's one that discusses IS and usage on tripods.

http://albert.achtung.com/cameras/A80/index9.html

----

Some may know that Canon did, in fact, develop several IS lenses (read ""Big Bucks"") for the DSLR market that COULD be used

with tripods; the vast majority could not. This was an excellent test on your part and your advice is well taken...In fact,

Canon Support has just responded to my query regarding this question and they say ""...Turn the IS OFF when using a Tripod.""

Good on ya' for taking the initiative to test it out and providing everyone with an outstanding tip."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Misc:

To get the best WB from any digicam that allows you to set the balance manually, you need to use a white or light grey surface

infront of the lens.

The S1 of course is no different inthis respect.

When you're out and about, it's not always easy to find something white to put in front of your lens, unless you're the type

to always carry a white hanky or piece of white paper in your pocket :-)

The simple slolution.....

Stick a round peice of paper to the inside of your S1's lens cap, or if you are more ambitious you can paint the inside white.

Simply zoom your S1 to full telephoto and use the lens cap to set WB
(No the lens cap is not too small a surface to use if you zoom in).

Now you've got no excuse for improoerly set WB !"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"
 
DavZell said:
The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
"Misc:
The new upgrade makes this good camera close to outstanding. Go here:

http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/pss1is/firmware-e.html

----

Tips for trouble free firmware upgrade!
Intended for updating to revision : 1.0.1.0

Download both firmware and upgrade instructions and then unpack to suitable directory.

Next make sure you dedicate at least 25 minutes of completely uninterupted time to the task.Make sure firmware upgrade is done

in one single sitting. (it wont take this long but still good practice)

Do not leave camera connected to pc ..walk away mid way through etc .. to continue later ....as batteries will drain until you

return to task etc..... may prove fatal ... depending on how much charge is left in batterys upon your return.

Make sure you use fully charged (known to be good) batterys -cant stress this enough. Go buy some brand new duracell

alkalines just for firmware upgrade if in doubt.

Read... then re-read ... follow instructions to the letter.

NB: Also make sure you use an empty CF card - as you need to format it before uploading the firmware to the camera.

Make sure you SAVE off those piccys first :)

Also Important: You also need to format the CF card afterwards to ensure picture taking operability goes unhindered/ for

safety to remove the update facility.

S1 firmware link again:
http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/pss1is/firmware-e.html

Also: If you have a deliberate and visible black dot in your CF door your firmware will probably not need to upgrade as you

will already have current firmwar version installed.

You can also check your firmware revision via Zoombrowser camera\camera settings.

May your upgrade be trouble free."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Misc: Lens Ring Stowing Tip

If you use a telephoto or wide angle lens you have to remove the S1's lens ring which is a very fragile piece of plastic.

A good place to stow it while you're using the conversion lens is on the end cap that comes with the conversion lens.

The end cap is reversible so that one way works with the conversion lens and when turned the other way it can be used to

protect the ""camera"" end of the extension tube when the lens is attached to it. This 2 way cap allows you to leave the lens

and the extension tube together when stored.

This also makes a great place to stow the ring when the conversion lens is on the camera.

----

I usually put it into the camera's own lens cap, inside out:
http://www.pbase.com/image/31408614/original

----

Oh, and another thing: you can take the lens ring off/on along with the cap (push and hold button, turn and remove cap along

with the ring), which makes it a lot easier to put it back to its place when the adapter is no more necessary.

----

My cap is tied to the camera strap so I'd be afraid it'd would fall out but in practice it seems to stay in perfectly.

I like this even better.

----

well, i don't remove the conversuin lens adapter any more. to protect the lens you can place a 52 mm lens cover on the

adapter, or - as i do it - permanently place a UV filter on the adapter (this will still allow you to screw on the other

converters and lenses as the UV filter lens has a 52 mm lens thread). the now obsolete lens ring rests inside the now also

obsolete original canon lens cap."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"
 
DavZell said:
The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
"Movies: PROBLEM... When capturing video, the focus tends to ""hunt"" frequently, and can be triggered easily, resulting in

the video losing focus for a moment and then regaining it. Terribly annoying !

SOLUTION... before starting to record your video clip, zoom all the way (380mm) and let the camera focus on something. After a

second or so, the camera will likely have clear focus... press the MF button on the side of the lense. A small ""AFL"" (auto

focus lock) will appear on your screen.

You should be able to pan and zoom with almost no focus problems. Only time I notice it at all is at the very start of a

quicker zoom, if I am panning at the same time."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Movies: CODEC for S1 videos:

Okay so the video from the S1 isn't great in low light, but it was about the same as my 3yr old Sharp camcorder, so I figured

I could just use the same process to clean up the noise, and brighten the video clip....

BUT... the S1's AVI file would not load for me in virtualdub (which is a great FREE tool, search google for it).

anyway, elsewhere in these forums I found a posting from 2002 that pointed to a simple MJpeg codec. V3 is available here http

: www.morgan-multimedia.com/. It is a free 60day trial kinda thing, and only $19 if you like it.

After installing the codec and rebooting, virtualdub worked great. You just select the morgan codec from the video compression

menu, then open your video clip and apply filters.

so far, I have found that fixing my indoor night clips, requires reducing the saturation down to 75% (HSV filter), and

reducing some of the noise with the default settings in the Smart Smooth Hiquality filter."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Picture Quality: Unexplainable blurred pics?

Perhaps you have a bad S1 copy.
See http://forums.dpreview.com/ ... ... read.asp?forum=1010&message=8792960

----

Only problem with this is when the scene calls for greater than f8, the highest it will go. Then the pic is overexposed since

the flash is limited to 1/250. I have a few like that but they were the exceptionally bright scenes that fill-flash may be of

less value anyways.

----

--1)) Don't be deceived by the on-board displays. They show a brighter, sometimes washed out image. Probably no need to adjust

exposure. The images will be just right on the PC and in print. Trust the camera until you learn your particular copy

2) Want to extend your flash range? Two products:

a) Sunpak digital adapter. Has a built in slave that actuates most shoe type flashes you may have lying around. Has

settings for several combinations of pre and red eye flash types

DOES NOT WORK WITH VIVITAR 283 - CONTACTS DON'T MATCH UP.

b) Viviatr DF200 slave flash. Acts as a slave to on-board flash and has a learning mode to sync up with on-board. Comes

with a bracket that holds the camera and flash (a little flimsy, but what the heck) and the cutest little tripod you ever saw.

----

Exactly!! Since I ve been using the highlight mode of the LCD, I found it is really cheating on the exposure. Now I switched

back to normal light mode, wondering if it can give more accurate exposure display.

----

I noticed that if you put the LCD in the closed position but face out, it will give you more accurate exposure displays."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Picture Quality: Need fill-flash for daytime pics?

Set slow-synchro to yes in menu, use Tv, set to 1/250 sec, set flash on."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"
 
DavZell said:
The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
"Controls: While reviewing your photos, press twice the Display button (or the necessary to see the Histogram with the

picture at a reduced size). Besides checking the histogram to verify if a picture is overexposed, the little picture will tell

you by blinking the ""too white"" areas."

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Controls: Preview off. (remember you can hold to view your last picture) After your shot don't release your finger

completely, you'll still have the green bracket ready for the next shot so you can shoot away as many pictures as you want and

time it without loss of pre-focus or freeze. Practice it works.

You can do it with the flash ON too, you just have to wait until the flash fires (from 2s to 5s)

difference sometimes.

----

Thanks, Hariette. Your Tip makes this great little camera eminently more useable!

And if I may elaborate on your Tip just a bit:

I just discovered that if you lock the exposure (using the ""jump"" button set to AEL) and don't release your finger

completely from the shutter relsease after taking a picture, the AEL will remain in effect for any number of shots -- until

you release your finger completely.

See my earilier posting:

http://forums.dpreview.com/ ... ... read.asp?forum=1010&message=9138652"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Controls: >
DavZell said:
One more quetsion : anyone can tell me how to disable the AF beeps
? I found how to disable all the other sounds but not those beeps,
and at a quiet concert, that is really not acceptable...

Cheers,

Fabrice
Click to expand...
Simply turn the sound to ""ON""!! With all volume to 0. Believe me not!!
Sounds paradoxical but true!"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"

"Flash:
Simple Cardboard Bounce Flash

Use a piece of white paper or thin piece of cardboard and hold it just under the built-in pop-up flash. Angle the paper

upwards at a 45 degree angle or curve the paper upwards with your left hand and holding the left side of the camera. With your

right hand, compose your shot and shoot.

The ideas is for the light to bounce off the paper upwards and to hit the ceiling and lighting your subject like an external

bounce flash.

Sometimes it works. The pictures can be unfocussed at times and are a bit underexposed. But they are much softer and nicer at

times than the harsh direct flash.

Maybe someone can come up with something for the S1 that makes it more reliable.

Ben

----

Thanks for this great idea. I tried with aluminum foil and seems work for me, giving more nature night feel indoor shoot. here

is what I came up with.

http://public.fotki.com/forrestsun/s1_is_bounce_flash/

I know there is a so-called flash-clip for G1-5 on the market that gives soft flash effect, they might be ablt to come up with

good bounser for S1 IS with your idea.

----

Here are my samples..........

Picture with Direct Flash:

http://www.pbase.com/image/29699257

Picture with Bounce Flash:

http://www.pbase.com/image/29699357

Picture of the Cardboard I used! (Parents might recognize it)

http://www.pbase.com/image/29699374

Zhiyong - Your setup is much nicer than mine!

Happy shooting!
Ben

----

Wow, that's a major difference.

This is a great DIY project and has been around awhile in various forms, cardboards, paper, foil e.g.

Question is, why aren't digicam makers incorporating it into their products like the Leica did with its Digilux 2 :

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/leicadigilux2/page4.asp

Is this an attempt to prevent cannibalization of their proprietary external flash systems?"

"
=== End of Tip ===========================================

"
 
drz said:
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
--THanks for taking the time to do this

Thanks

Thom
 
Yes, just what I needed. I got my S1 yesterday and your compilation will save me lots of time.

Maybe I will also venture a summary some day (when more tips was added)

Lets keep this up by adding to the list...

Big thanks to all who contributed and to DRZ for this summary!!!!!!!

Willem
 
drz said:
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
--
Just my nickels worth.
Happy Snappin'!

Ron
----------------------------------------------------
http://www.pbase.com/recalcitrantron
FCAS Member No. 68
pbase supporter
D Seventy
 
And my tiny inexperienced addition.

RTFM

Thank you for the great tips compilation
drz said:
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
 
Is there a way to print all these out together on one page? On my browser these posts are so narrow and long...
drz said:
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
 
Just copy/paste the tips/hints to a word document, so that you can arrange them as you like. Even making an Excel spreadsheet would be simple enough.
bshor said:
drz said:
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
getting more cynical by the day
 
Or do what I did with the original tips - copy the ones you want to save to your clip board and paste them to a .txt document. I have a shortcut to the txt file on my desktop so I can open and paste them quickly.

Actually, I do this with all posts I want to save.
drPheta said:
Just copy/paste the tips/hints to a word document, so that you can
arrange them as you like. Even making an Excel spreadsheet would be
simple enough.
Click to expand...
Stan alias EdgarEss
Vegetarian is an Indian word meaning 'lousy hunter'
 
Thanks drz. It won't be long before someone allocates a website to the S1, a S1 website would be well derserved,
drz said:
The S1 Tips and Hints Thread is great but hard to get through, so...

Here is a compilation of ideas from that thread. Hope you like it!

David

[P.S. I am never doing this again... ugh!]

The Tips (In no order other than my arbitrary classification:)
=========================================

Too long to post in one message. Please see next messages...
Click to expand...
--
'Don't believe anything you read on the net. Except this. Well,
including this, I suppose.' Douglas Adams
 
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