A lot of people owning a D2H are concerned about the noise...
Well ignore the quasi-religious admiration many people on dpreview have about the D2H. It's a great tool. It has fantastic features but, YES, it has a noise problem!
Anyway, I own a D100, a D2H and a Fuji S2Pro. Of all 3, the S2Pro is the least noisy. At base ISO (100) The s2 beats the D100 which beats the D2H hands down. At high ISO (800+) The S2 is KING.
(and to those who feel like "oh my god, what is he talking about, the D2H is not a noisy camera!", Go ahead! Flame me. Like I give a sh:it. If you flame, you probably haven't done your homework or you don't own a D2H, or you don't shoot low light stuff or a VERY noisy D2H image doesn't bother you... And please quit posting scaled down images to show that there is "no" noise in your image. Scaling down reduces high frequency noise in an image. And quit posting high iso images taken in broad daylight. Post a crop of the full size image taken in low light, or heck even at 200 ISO, and make sure you show some dark/shadowy tones as well. Thank you.)
As you may have read already, the D2H is super sensitive to under-exposure. In other words, the chip is very noisy. That's exactly what that means. Even at base ISO, the D2H is noisier than any other dSLR from nikon.
Now, I have done quite a lot of low light stuff with the D2H in the past few months. Both long exposures on a tripod and shooting concerts in very dark, badly lit venues. My conclusions are that the D2H has SUPERB long exposure noise reduction, If you're into night photography/ long exposures (tripod), the D2H is a fantastic tool!
If you're shooting 800-1000 ISO in very dark places, think again about getting the D2H. You will probably be way better off with a fuji S2Pro. That camera is amazing both for its colors and its very low noise levels at ALL ISOs including 1600.
If you insist on getting a D2H for low light stuff, this is what I found out:
-forget Auto WB. Get a direct sensor WB reading if your main subject is illuminated one main light or if one light dominates. Place your camera right under it and do a sensor WB.
- if there are several lights without a dominating one falling on your subject, dial your WB in Kelvins. Usually I get better results (less noise) if I use 2800-4000K if the lights are warm (yellow, reds etc...)
- do not use "low contrast" tone curves if you're shooting in DARK venues. This is basically leaving too much dynamic range in the shadows. You need to be able to "crush your black level" a bit to reduce the appearance of noise. If you shoot JPEG with that tone curve setting and you underexpose, you're f.Kd. You'll have to use a serious noise removal tool like noiseNinja or Neat Image.
- shoot RAW. Forget JPEG. (forget it forever anyway. Unless you work as a PJ and don't have time to dic-k around)
- spot meter or set your center weight average zone to 6% coverage if you insist on using CWAverage.
If you're shooting in low light, get fast glass! 70-200 VR f/2.8 is AWESOME for lowlight. The 17-55 DX f/2.8 and the 17-35 f/2.8 are both great. I have all of these and have had great results at f/2.8 in low light venues...
Hope that helps. Here are a few of the low light shots I took recently:
http://www.karimsahai.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=665
http://www.karimsahai.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=663
http://www.karimsahai.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=633
http://www.karimsahai.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=634
http://www.karimsahai.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=649
http://www.karimsahai.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=411
k.
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http://karimsahai.com