summerwind
Leading Member
not sure if you all have seen this...........haven't tried it yet, but hey, it's free....
http://www.sd3.info/pf828/PFree/PFree0-1.html
http://www.sd3.info/pf828/PFree/PFree0-1.html
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tool for removing PF here
- Thread starter summerwind
- Start date
Richard Higgs
Senior Member
Hi Summerwind,
Thanks for posting the link.
I downloaded it and used it in PE2, and it certainly works as claimed.
Have not tried any other PF plug-in filters, but this seems to make a definite improvement.... Especially with the dreaded "stick branches" against a highlighted sky.
Takes a bit of playing around with the various settings, to understand and see the end result... But not too hard.
Thanks again
Kind Regards
Richard Higgs
Australia
http://www.pbase.com/rhiggs1
Pbase Supporter
Richard Higgs
Senior Member
Here is an example photo, showing before & after using this PF removal tool
Kind Regards
Richard Higgs
Australia
http://www.pbase.com/rhiggs1
Pbase Supporter
BEFORE being fixed
AFTER being fixed
Kind Regards
Richard Higgs
Australia
http://www.pbase.com/rhiggs1
Pbase Supporter
BEFORE being fixed
AFTER being fixed
It seems to work very well in PaintShop Pro 8 - many thanks for the tip.
OvinceZ
Veteran Member
Hi Richard, Nice photos in your albums. I see you love the macro work with flowers. I think both of us would love to have a go with the Pro1.
I have advocated larger LCD screens on digital cameras and your apparatus proves me right. Would be a big improvement, especially for those of us who need reading glasses. I wonder if digital cameras will follow the video screen sizes?
I have advocated larger LCD screens on digital cameras and your apparatus proves me right. Would be a big improvement, especially for those of us who need reading glasses. I wonder if digital cameras will follow the video screen sizes?
Richard Higgs
Senior Member
Note: - The PF fixing tool won't remove all the PF in every shot, but from my tests will remove approx. 80 to 90%.
In the attached before and after photo, you can still see some PF in the top left corner..... However, maybe further tweaking with the plug-in controls, could also fix this.
Regards
Richard Higgs
In the attached before and after photo, you can still see some PF in the top left corner..... However, maybe further tweaking with the plug-in controls, could also fix this.
Regards
Richard Higgs
Here is an example photo, showing before & after using this PF
removal tool
Kind Regards
Richard Higgs
Australia
http://www.pbase.com/rhiggs1
Pbase Supporter
BEFORE being fixed
AFTER being fixed
RN Harwell
Member
I've used this and it works!
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Optical/Chromatic_Aberrations_01.htm
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Optical/Chromatic_Aberrations_01.htm
justin223998
Forum Enthusiast
This tool often makes blue skies cyan, it is nice that its is free and appreciated but I have found it unsuitable for large areas.
I have experimented with some success in ps by doing this:
(the use of high bit files minimizes the data loss on conversions between RGB/LAB and back to RGB when finally converted to an 8 bit file)
start with a 16 bit tiff created from the RAW tool supplied by canon.
create an 8 bit copy of this file and make a selection using a pen and graphics tablet over the areas that need work. Leave this file open.
Convert the first 16 bit RGB file to LAB , go to "channels" and highlight the "a" channel for editing while leaving the eyeball checked on LAB so that a full color image is still visible.
go back to the 8 bit copy with the marquee selection tool on click within the selection borders and move the selection BORDERS onto the 16 bit LAB file WHILE HOLDING THE SHIFT KEY DOWN. This will import the soft edged mask from 1 file to the other in exact alignment with the target image.
then apply the "median" photoshop filter to the selection, keeping an eye on the preview for the best result. This helps a great deal. Then reconvert your LAB image to RGB and downsample it to 8 bits and proceed as normal.
Still a real big pain....
I have experimented with some success in ps by doing this:
(the use of high bit files minimizes the data loss on conversions between RGB/LAB and back to RGB when finally converted to an 8 bit file)
start with a 16 bit tiff created from the RAW tool supplied by canon.
create an 8 bit copy of this file and make a selection using a pen and graphics tablet over the areas that need work. Leave this file open.
Convert the first 16 bit RGB file to LAB , go to "channels" and highlight the "a" channel for editing while leaving the eyeball checked on LAB so that a full color image is still visible.
go back to the 8 bit copy with the marquee selection tool on click within the selection borders and move the selection BORDERS onto the 16 bit LAB file WHILE HOLDING THE SHIFT KEY DOWN. This will import the soft edged mask from 1 file to the other in exact alignment with the target image.
then apply the "median" photoshop filter to the selection, keeping an eye on the preview for the best result. This helps a great deal. Then reconvert your LAB image to RGB and downsample it to 8 bits and proceed as normal.
Still a real big pain....
Paul_london
Member
Does this work with Arcsoft photo studio?
justin223998
Forum Enthusiast
Hi Paul -
I do not know the arcsoft program. But if it handles 16 bit in rgb and lab modes I imagine it can be done. I have also worked with the method suggested by RNH at this url, and it is a reasonable workaround in rgb if you have a soft selection. I find it messes up whole skies though.
RNH Suggested this method
http://www.dpreview.com/ ... ... Glossary/Optical/Chromatic_Aberrations_01.htm
I do not know the arcsoft program. But if it handles 16 bit in rgb and lab modes I imagine it can be done. I have also worked with the method suggested by RNH at this url, and it is a reasonable workaround in rgb if you have a soft selection. I find it messes up whole skies though.
RNH Suggested this method
http://www.dpreview.com/ ... ... Glossary/Optical/Chromatic_Aberrations_01.htm
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