More flash concerns.

mike70811

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I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination. I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems, but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
There's a really excellent recent post by Doctor G1 that explains flash with the Rebel (with a follow up correction).

I have a 420, was a little frustrated and upgraded to the 550. If I had to do it over again, I'd have kept the 420 (because it was doing about as well). The key is getting the hang of FEL lock. If you just frame and shoot without trying to FEL lock on a neutral spot, you'll get wildly different results because it seems the camera meters on a very small area in the center of the frame. For pictures of people, I've had great success using P mode, center focus, FEL locking on flesh tones (or neutral area), reframe, focus and shoot. Especially nice with bounce and diffuser. Often a little dark, but easily recoverable in PS or C1. I haven't liked the FEC hack - too easy to get unrecoverably overexposed shots.
I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very
disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash
or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very
inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on
manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination.
I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash
a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems,
but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Mike,

this is a 'feature' of the Canon ETTL system, but when you know how it works, you can get really excellent results.

1) Put the camera in P mode - this allows it to do great fill flash in ambient light

2) Dial up ISO400 for extra flash range without adding extra noise to images

3) Select a single AF point - the center one is easiest

4) Point the chosen AF point at the target, say someones face, and press the * button under your thumb. (FEL - Flash Exposure Lock)

This sends out a flash pulse, and the 300D stores the amount of light coming back from the target under the center point and uses this to meter the flash for the final shot.

5) Focus on subject - hold trigger depressed half way to hold focus & recompose shot as required

6) Squeeze shutter release, firing flash.



You'll get perfectly exposed flash for the target you chose to test with the * (FEL) button.

This avoids the usual face overexpoed due to person wearing dark suit, or face underexposed due to bride wearing white etc etc.

Just make sure that you point the focus/metering zone at the item you want to expose for when you hit the * button.

Sounds more complecated than it is, and the layout of the camera makes it 2nd nature in no time.

Chris.

--
http://www.1D-images.com
[email protected]
Mac G4/iMac/iBook/iPod
 
Had used the 420EX flash with DR since Sep '03 Initially had lots of problems with flash under-exposure and consistency. For a couple of months bumped up the flash with +2/3 FEC.

Here's what I do today & no FEC used. For the kit lens, set camera to manual and shoot using bounce flash or FEL if direct flash is used. It appears that direct flash tends to under-expose. If you use a faster lens, consider setting aperture around f2.8 and shutter speed at 1/40s (for hand held) and fire away in M mode. Just did couple of hundred images with good results this way.

I find the P mode to give varied (inconsistent) results

:-)
I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very
disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash
or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very
inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on
manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination.
I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash
a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems,
but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
I spoke with the Canon folks at CES, and they said that they're aware of very inconsistent flash results and too-small metering for flash -- and they're working on the problem.
 
Thanks for the tip! I will give it a try with my 420EX.
Mike,

this is a 'feature' of the Canon ETTL system, but when you know how
it works, you can get really excellent results.

1) Put the camera in P mode - this allows it to do great fill flash
in ambient light

2) Dial up ISO400 for extra flash range without adding extra noise
to images

3) Select a single AF point - the center one is easiest

4) Point the chosen AF point at the target, say someones face, and
press the * button under your thumb. (FEL - Flash Exposure Lock)

This sends out a flash pulse, and the 300D stores the amount of
light coming back from the target under the center point and uses
this to meter the flash for the final shot.

5) Focus on subject - hold trigger depressed half way to hold focus
& recompose shot as required

6) Squeeze shutter release, firing flash.



You'll get perfectly exposed flash for the target you chose to test
with the * (FEL) button.

This avoids the usual face overexpoed due to person wearing dark
suit, or face underexposed due to bride wearing white etc etc.

Just make sure that you point the focus/metering zone at the item
you want to expose for when you hit the * button.

Sounds more complecated than it is, and the layout of the camera
makes it 2nd nature in no time.

Chris.

--
http://www.1D-images.com
[email protected]
Mac G4/iMac/iBook/iPod
 
Sadly I think you are exactly right...

The only glimmer of hope is that we do get at least some minimal fix via firmware - I noticed that Canon did put out some firmware fixes for a couple of cameras acknowledging a focussing issue. So I guess there is still hope... That and the fact that it behooves them to put out a better camera right now - and the only way to do that is modify firmware for the ones in the pipe already - we would all be the beneficiaries of such an action.
Translation:

It will be better in the next model we release.
 
This is kind of cheating but I use the Stoffen Omnibounce with my 420 and find that my flash pics are far better now without using FEL (they were great before as long as I FEL'd--with the Stoffen, this isn't mandatory). It's a bit of a cheat but for $20 what the heck. I think what happens is that because the pre-flash is diffused, the real flash amps it up a little--often just enough to properly expose.
I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very
disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash
or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very
inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on
manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination.
I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash
a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems,
but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
--

http://www.pbase.com/jthomaslambert
 
Thanks for the suggestion, Thomas. Where did you purchase the Stoffen.
Please email me. I am in Ontario

Mike
I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very
disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash
or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very
inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on
manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination.
I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash
a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems,
but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
--

http://www.pbase.com/jthomaslambert
 
Thanks for the advice, will try some tonight. Thomas where did you purchase it. Email me
I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very
disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash
or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very
inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on
manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination.
I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash
a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems,
but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
As Thomas mentioned, the Stofen Omni Bounce diffuser is a no brainer for the Canon flash guns.

You can buy them online at B&H etc, or go direct to Stofen here:

http://www.stofen.com/

You simply push fit the Stofen onto your flash head, tip the head vertically to 45 degrees, and fire away as normal.

The Stofen diffuses the flash, giving a far more natural lighting, especially close-in to people. You see less harsh shadows, and less of the 'startled in the headlights' look! (You also benefit from getting additional bounced flash from ceilings etc, which is nicely diffused)

Here's a without Stofen (Direct) and with Stofen (Bounced) picture to illustrate:



Just leave it on all the time.

If you watch any news footage, you'll always see a Stofen on a Canon or Nikon flash, it's that little white box covring the flash tube, that looks like tupperware!

Here's mine on the 500EX, together with an external battery pack from Lumedyne (Another great product)



Chris.
--
http://www.1D-images.com
[email protected]
Mac G4/iMac/iBook/iPod
 
Hi Chris:

Excellent directions/advice ... that's often what I do, except I prefer ISO 100 and raw capture mode (gives more latitude in post processing). Not nit picking ... what you suggested works great.
 
In the meantime you can put an handkerchief in front of the flash
to test if the system works.

Bruno
I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very
disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash
or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very
inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on
manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination.
I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash
a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems,
but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
jam a styrofoam cup over it - same thing - but it won't help the ettl system do a full frame metering, you will still have to fel on tuxedo like obects and pray for the best.
 
I think that the same problem have also Stoffen. Or not?

Bruno
jam a styrofoam cup over it - same thing - but it won't help the
ettl system do a full frame metering, you will still have to fel on
tuxedo like obects and pray for the best.
 
The Stofen is a great device, but you'll still need good flash technique to get consistant results.

So use the FEL * button as above, with the Stofen Omni Bounce, and you'll have great flash pictures time after time.



Pitty about the hair though!

Chris.

--
http://www.1D-images.com
[email protected]
Mac G4/iMac/iBook/iPod
 
The DR has FEC? I didn't think there was a way to bump up the power!
Had used the 420EX flash with DR since Sep '03 Initially had lots
of problems with flash under-exposure and consistency. For a
couple of months bumped up the flash with +2/3 FEC.
--
Apologies many for listing equipment in the past. Don't shoot!
 
I picked one up at Galaxy Camera in Ottawa. Great shop--have never had better service anywhere.
Mike
I recently purchased the 420ex flash but have been very
disappointed with the results. I'm not sure if its me or the flash
or the camera. Most of the photos are underexposed and very
inconsistent. So far the best results (which are few) have been on
manual. Does anyone else have this problem with this combination.
I really thought after buying this camera and then the better flash
a month later, that I would solve most of my photographic problems,
but now I'm not so sure.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
--

http://www.pbase.com/jthomaslambert
--

http://www.pbase.com/jthomaslambert
 

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