If you are using epson Premium Gloss paper, you will find that the
reds are very accentuated for a long period and fade away to their
normal color after more than 24 hours. Just let a print dry for a
couple of days and compare it to the same print fresh out of the
printer and you will see.
With slow drying papers such as Ilford Galerie Pearl or Epson
Colorlife, the ink itself remains wet for around three days.
As a rule I will not make a scan of a target for at least 24 hours,
or longer depending on the paper.
Also, on marking by the eye one on the paper target. I usually
place a piece of smooth paper under the rear feet of the eye one
and slide it down the paper over the already finished patches as
the device moves deeper and deeper into the numbered rows in order
to protect the target.
I also label each target as to exactly how it was printed and I
name my profile with something to tie it to that target and the
parameters that were set for its printing, such as 1440, 720, (2
target) etc.
Bob
Since I have an Epson 1280 and not the 2200, my driver is different
that yours, so I cannot really say, but I suspect that automatic
needs to be turned off.
I do not print mine directly form Eye One Match 2.03a, but rather
print it through photoshop. When I come into photoshop, I direct
it to leave the file untagged. Then I print with Preview and the
source space is untagged, and I leave the printer space, "same as
source"
Then I go in and pick my paper, dpi, microweave on, high speed off
(althought I have some slower dpi's profiles set with high speed
on), No color management and I print.
Hope that helps.
Bob
w4npx: I just got the Eye One Photo and I was was wondering when
you first print the color chart that is supplied, what color
settings do you use. I have an Epson 2200 and I turned color
management off and set it to the paper type I was using and
automatic. Is this right or wrong. Thanks
However, you complained that "colors are not dead spot on prints"
and you are not going to get spot on colors on prints unless you
can also produce or purchase printer profiles for the paper and ink
you are using.
Generic profiles, like the ones you get from Epson with your print
driver are usually close, but never right on the money, and some
are in fact way off the mark. Thus you need to get a printer
profiling system or get one of the various companies to make you
profiles from targets which you print on yoru printer. Purchased
profiles seem to be in the $50-$100 range per profile. I have the
eye one Photo which does a good job on making printer profiles
(monitor too) and I am not sorry I got it. It really works great.
Bob
Do you guys know which monitor profiling is the best for the money
while still having a good quality?
I just bought Spyder Photocal and am not very happy with results I
get.
I have a good monitor Sony 21" E 520 and it is a brand new yet my
colors are not dead spot on prints when I compare them the to the
monitor.
I use new Olympus P-440 which is suposed to be good too.
SO my question is this: Should I return a Spyder and buy something
better or it is my problem with the monitor ( for some reason I can
not get luiminance in between 85 and 95 range I get like 83 the
most no matter how hard I try to play with RGB).
Could you give some good sound advice?
Thanks in advance!
10D, Epson 2200, Olympus p-440
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Bob
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Mike55
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Bob
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Mike55
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Bob
