One Ring To Rule Them All.......... RX10 iv Content

Damn, those do look great!
 
"..I consolidated to my Leicas and my A7c r and a host of lenses.."

And how does image quality of the RX10iv compares with the A7CR with an GM lens attached?
Close enough that I've sold my 300 2.8 and 70-200 OSS GM ii.......... that close. It focuses faster it is far lighter and the IQ is equal to FF in most situations. If you read some reviews floating around you will find the same answers.
Do you shoot raw and process with renown s/w using a 4k screen? If yes, I can hardly believe that the combi A7CR with 70-200 GMii is similar to the RX10iv..
You might try one sometime then.
I think AbS likes to zoom in to 200% to look for differences.
 
The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.

Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.

Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.

Cheers,
Bert,
(old timer from 1950s who bought blue flash bulbs back then for daylight film with flash)
 
The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.

Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.

Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.

Cheers,
Bert,
(old timer from 1950s who bought blue flash bulbs back then for daylight film with flash)
It seems that the solution to every single problem is this $200 software and RAW images. There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.
 
There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.
It’s actually mostly true. I had an RX10iii for almost a decade. I had often struggled with autofocus on moving subjects and low light performance.
I was going through some of my older photos (all raw) and tried the one version old DXO software and was amazed at the results.
Decided to sell my iii and bought an iv just as discontinuance was announced. Quite happy - although I wish I hadn’t limited myself to ISO 400 so much in my several years old photos.
Of course, a V with today’s autofocus and an even better sensor would be even better.
 
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The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.

Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.

Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.

Cheers,
Bert,
(old timer from 1950s who bought blue flash bulbs back then for daylight film with flash)
It seems that the solution to every single problem is this $200 software and RAW images. There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.
Not "this" $200 software: the exact name changes regularly and also depends on who is posting.
 
The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.

Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.

Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.

Cheers,
Bert,
(old timer from 1950s who bought blue flash bulbs back then for daylight film with flash)
It seems that the solution to every single problem is this $200 software and RAW images. There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.
That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.

--
Tom
 
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That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
 
That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
Now I understand why so many people that have worked with other photographers are shocked when I show them pictures on my camera and say "they don't even need editing", and even more shocked when I get them 50+ finished images the next day, because I'm not trying to fully construct lighting in post.
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
 
That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
Now I understand why so many people that have worked with other photographers are shocked when I show them pictures on my camera and say "they don't even need editing", and even more shocked when I get them 50+ finished images the next day, because I'm not trying to fully construct lighting in post.
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
Not in my book. A -2EV fill-in or a -1EV bounce defuse a lot of otherwise unsatisfactory lighting situations. Modern cameras do magic at bringing the overall light level up. But they don't help at all with the balance. There is a large difference between composing and controlling the complete light situation, and in improving what you have by working on the shadow situation.

Some kinds of social photography make it unfeasible to employ flash, but when that is not the case, a photographer who does not use light modifiers is like a cook who does not use seasoning.

The purpose of processing should be to complete your photography, not to salvage it.
 
That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
Now I understand why so many people that have worked with other photographers are shocked when I show them pictures on my camera and say "they don't even need editing", and even more shocked when I get them 50+ finished images the next day, because I'm not trying to fully construct lighting in post.
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
Not in my book. A -2EV fill-in or a -1EV bounce defuse a lot of otherwise unsatisfactory lighting situations. Modern cameras do magic at bringing the overall light level up. But they don't help at all with the balance. There is a large difference between composing and controlling the complete light situation, and in improving what you have by working on the shadow situation.

Some kinds of social photography make it unfeasible to employ flash, but when that is not the case, a photographer who does not use light modifiers is like a cook who does not use seasoning.

The purpose of processing should be to complete your photography, not to salvage it.
I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.

I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.



At night with the way-too-warm available artificial light as edge lighting
At night with the way-too-warm available artificial light as edge lighting



In a poorly lit but open air parking garage because the rain stopped our initial plans
In a poorly lit but open air parking garage because the rain stopped our initial plans



With the setting sun
With the setting sun



In a relatively dark stairwell
In a relatively dark stairwell

If you have a big bright wall to bounce the bare speedlight off of, you can get a giant bright light source that overcomes the shadows from the placement standard light fixtures.



Bouncing off the grey or white paper background on the other side of the room.  I use the same basic concept at home in a spare bedroom with white walls
Bouncing off the grey or white paper background on the other side of the room. I use the same basic concept at home in a spare bedroom with white walls

For quick/casual things, on camera flash from a speedlight with a small modifier on it can diffuse and spread it enough for decent results, though you'll still get pronounced hot spots in many situations.



A security guard made it seem like bringing a light on a stand to this area was not allowed
A security guard made it seem like bringing a light on a stand to this area was not allowed
 
I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.
Any stylist/visagist/photographer/gardener will tell you that the naturalistic/neutral look is the hardest look to achieve, not the easiest.

Looking artificial is beginner's work.
 
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.

I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.
 
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.

I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.
What you said, which you conveniently highlighted, was "multiple flashes and reflectors".

The examples I provided were with a single speedlight, either on a stand or mounted on the camera. I can provide thousands of examples of great looking pictures that were just taken with a speedlight mounted on my camera with a little MagMod modifier attached. It's not "totally impractical" if it is what you are setting out to do.

I agree that only carrying an RX10IV, with zero accessories of any kind, would be more convenient than having a speedlight and modifier on the hotshoe, but an RX100 in the pocket would be even more convenient than just an RX10IV. And a smartphone that you already have is even more convenient than the RX100 as an additional device.

It all just depends on what kinds of pictures you're trying to take, what amount of inconvenience you're willing to endure to get them, and what level of quality you're willing to accept as the result.
 
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.

I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.
I agree that only carrying an RX10IV, with zero accessories of any kind, would be more convenient than having a speedlight and modifier on the hotshoe, but an RX100 in the pocket would be even more convenient than just an RX10IV. And a smartphone that you already have is even more convenient than the RX100 as an additional device.

It all just depends on what kinds of pictures you're trying to take, what amount of inconvenience you're willing to endure to get them, and what level of quality you're willing to accept as the result.
It doesn't matter what camera you add external flash/lighting to, it becomes less convenient than the camera alone. Also, it's not about which camera is pocketable or not, the RX10 is neither compact or pocketable. I happens to be not only the most convenient 24-600 "range" camera as it doesn't require any lens changes or even lens purchases or carrying. The RX100 isn't in the class, category or convenience of the RX10. Lighting, of any kind, can be done with any camera but is an entirely different discussion.
 
It doesn't matter what camera you add external flash/lighting to, it becomes less convenient than the camera alone.
Fill-in flash to shallow up shadows from a backlit situation usually does not mean more than popping up the built-in flash (which you can have pre-wired to -1EV, or which may even put itself somewhere in that vicinity in "Auto" mode).

If "that is an ugly lighting situation, let's let the camera help" is too inconvenient, one really has to question why you are dragging such a large camera around. In particular if the camera would pop up the flash anyway when left to its own devices via "Auto".
 
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.

I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.
I agree that only carrying an RX10IV, with zero accessories of any kind, would be more convenient than having a speedlight and modifier on the hotshoe, but an RX100 in the pocket would be even more convenient than just an RX10IV. And a smartphone that you already have is even more convenient than the RX100 as an additional device.

It all just depends on what kinds of pictures you're trying to take, what amount of inconvenience you're willing to endure to get them, and what level of quality you're willing to accept as the result.
It doesn't matter what camera you add external flash/lighting to, it becomes less convenient than the camera alone. Also, it's not about which camera is pocketable or not, the RX10 is neither compact or pocketable. I happens to be not only the most convenient 24-600 "range" camera as it doesn't require any lens changes or even lens purchases or carrying. The RX100 isn't in the class, category or convenience of the RX10. Lighting, of any kind, can be done with any camera but is an entirely different discussion.
The discussion is spiraling somewhat and slowly got to where it is, and I accept much of the blame for that. To summarize it a bit and get it back on topic:
  • I love my RX10IV for its versatility, but one thing that I feel it does worse than older, smaller Cybershot cameras I had before was close to medium distance portraits with flash.
  • My solution was, and still is on my a7IV which has no flash, to use a speedlight, usually with a modifier.
  • tbcass's solution is to instead shoot in RAW and process with advanced software.
  • Both are valid options, with their own pros and cons
And I will always think it's funny that the solution to every RX10IV problem is RAW+$200 AI editing software. It reminds me of "we'll fix it in post" jokes about Hollywood and content creators, or people that make crazy Photoshop requests. I am so uninterested in spending days hunched over my computer trying to salvage an hour's worth of pictures.
 
The discussion is spiraling somewhat and slowly got to where it is, and I accept much of the blame for that. To summarize it a bit and get it back on topic:
  • I love my RX10IV for its versatility, but one thing that I feel it does worse than older, smaller Cybershot cameras I had before was close to medium distance portraits with flash.
  • My solution was, and still is on my a7IV which has no flash, to use a speedlight, usually with a modifier.
  • tbcass's solution is to instead shoot in RAW and process with advanced software.
  • Both are valid options, with their own pros and cons
And I will always think it's funny that the solution to every RX10IV problem is RAW+$200 AI editing software. It reminds me of "we'll fix it in post" jokes about Hollywood and content creators, or people that make crazy Photoshop requests. I am so uninterested in spending days hunched over my computer trying to salvage an hour's worth of pictures.
Another case of "same premise, different conclusion" for me: for anything serious I always go the route via raw processing (actually using $0 non-AI processing software). But not for salvaging photographs but polishing them: you can pretty much always improve on a standard rendering by adapting the process the individual photograph, not because the photograph is bad but because it is deserving of the effort.

"Salvaging" makes sense for forensic photography, but I find it rarely worth the trouble if you intend to end up with something worth looking at. When you start out with something bad, you tend to end up with something meh.
 
Another case of "same premise, different conclusion" for me: for anything serious I always go the route via raw processing (actually using $0 non-AI processing software). But not for salvaging photographs but polishing them: you can pretty much always improve on a standard rendering by adapting the process the individual photograph, not because the photograph is bad but because it is deserving of the effort.

"Salvaging" makes sense for forensic photography, but I find it rarely worth the trouble if you intend to end up with something worth looking at. When you start out with something bad, you tend to end up with something meh.
 

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