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I think AbS likes to zoom in to 200% to look for differences.You might try one sometime then.Do you shoot raw and process with renown s/w using a 4k screen? If yes, I can hardly believe that the combi A7CR with 70-200 GMii is similar to the RX10iv..Close enough that I've sold my 300 2.8 and 70-200 OSS GM ii.......... that close. It focuses faster it is far lighter and the IQ is equal to FF in most situations. If you read some reviews floating around you will find the same answers."..I consolidated to my Leicas and my A7c r and a host of lenses.."
And how does image quality of the RX10iv compares with the A7CR with an GM lens attached?
Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.
Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.
Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
It seems that the solution to every single problem is this $200 software and RAW images. There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.
Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.
Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
Cheers,
Bert,
(old timer from 1950s who bought blue flash bulbs back then for daylight film with flash)
It’s actually mostly true. I had an RX10iii for almost a decade. I had often struggled with autofocus on moving subjects and low light performance.There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.
Not "this" $200 software: the exact name changes regularly and also depends on who is posting.It seems that the solution to every single problem is this $200 software and RAW images. There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.
Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.
Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
Cheers,
Bert,
(old timer from 1950s who bought blue flash bulbs back then for daylight film with flash)
That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.It seems that the solution to every single problem is this $200 software and RAW images. There should just be an auto-reply to every post on this forum that says "shoot RAW and use AI denoise" and it would save everyone so much time.Once I acquired DXO PL and started shooting raw, I have not put my decent flash on the RX100IV about 7 years now.The RX10IV is great at many things: there was a span of a few days where I used it for studio portraits, motorsports, and a concert, and was impressed with the results from all of them. But it frustrates me that I find it struggles at the thing I would like it to do most often, and what used to be what I did the most: casual flash portraits.
Maybe it's rose colored glasses looking at history, but I think my pictures with my old WX1 and HX20/60/90 cameras, usually with zero post processing, look better than many of the RX10IV ones I've taken. None of them are perfect, far from it, but the RX's look like they've gone through a vintage filter.
Attaching a larger flash with some kind of diffusion/bounce helps, but then it loses the simplicity and portability which justified me bringing it instead of my a7iv in the first place.
Cheers,
Bert,
(old timer from 1950s who bought blue flash bulbs back then for daylight film with flash)
That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.Now I understand why so many people that have worked with other photographers are shocked when I show them pictures on my camera and say "they don't even need editing", and even more shocked when I get them 50+ finished images the next day, because I'm not trying to fully construct lighting in post.That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
Not in my book. A -2EV fill-in or a -1EV bounce defuse a lot of otherwise unsatisfactory lighting situations. Modern cameras do magic at bringing the overall light level up. But they don't help at all with the balance. There is a large difference between composing and controlling the complete light situation, and in improving what you have by working on the shadow situation.I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.Now I understand why so many people that have worked with other photographers are shocked when I show them pictures on my camera and say "they don't even need editing", and even more shocked when I get them 50+ finished images the next day, because I'm not trying to fully construct lighting in post.That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.Not in my book. A -2EV fill-in or a -1EV bounce defuse a lot of otherwise unsatisfactory lighting situations. Modern cameras do magic at bringing the overall light level up. But they don't help at all with the balance. There is a large difference between composing and controlling the complete light situation, and in improving what you have by working on the shadow situation.I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.Now I understand why so many people that have worked with other photographers are shocked when I show them pictures on my camera and say "they don't even need editing", and even more shocked when I get them 50+ finished images the next day, because I'm not trying to fully construct lighting in post.That's because it's true. I rarely use flash any more. This would hold true to other RAW software as well, not just Photo Lab. Want better IQ? Forget buying a new camera and shoot RAW with what you have.
Some kinds of social photography make it unfeasible to employ flash, but when that is not the case, a photographer who does not use light modifiers is like a cook who does not use seasoning.
The purpose of processing should be to complete your photography, not to salvage it.






Any stylist/visagist/photographer/gardener will tell you that the naturalistic/neutral look is the hardest look to achieve, not the easiest.I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.
Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
In your opinion.The purpose of processing should be to complete your photography, not to salvage it.
What you said, which you conveniently highlighted, was "multiple flashes and reflectors".Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
It doesn't matter what camera you add external flash/lighting to, it becomes less convenient than the camera alone. Also, it's not about which camera is pocketable or not, the RX10 is neither compact or pocketable. I happens to be not only the most convenient 24-600 "range" camera as it doesn't require any lens changes or even lens purchases or carrying. The RX100 isn't in the class, category or convenience of the RX10. Lighting, of any kind, can be done with any camera but is an entirely different discussion.I agree that only carrying an RX10IV, with zero accessories of any kind, would be more convenient than having a speedlight and modifier on the hotshoe, but an RX100 in the pocket would be even more convenient than just an RX10IV. And a smartphone that you already have is even more convenient than the RX100 as an additional device.Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
It all just depends on what kinds of pictures you're trying to take, what amount of inconvenience you're willing to endure to get them, and what level of quality you're willing to accept as the result.
Fill-in flash to shallow up shadows from a backlit situation usually does not mean more than popping up the built-in flash (which you can have pre-wired to -1EV, or which may even put itself somewhere in that vicinity in "Auto" mode).It doesn't matter what camera you add external flash/lighting to, it becomes less convenient than the camera alone.
The discussion is spiraling somewhat and slowly got to where it is, and I accept much of the blame for that. To summarize it a bit and get it back on topic:It doesn't matter what camera you add external flash/lighting to, it becomes less convenient than the camera alone. Also, it's not about which camera is pocketable or not, the RX10 is neither compact or pocketable. I happens to be not only the most convenient 24-600 "range" camera as it doesn't require any lens changes or even lens purchases or carrying. The RX100 isn't in the class, category or convenience of the RX10. Lighting, of any kind, can be done with any camera but is an entirely different discussion.I agree that only carrying an RX10IV, with zero accessories of any kind, would be more convenient than having a speedlight and modifier on the hotshoe, but an RX100 in the pocket would be even more convenient than just an RX10IV. And a smartphone that you already have is even more convenient than the RX100 as an additional device.Beautiful photos but you mostly confirmed what I said. You have to bring and use extra equipment which takes time to set up to achieve your excellent results. Most of us don't do the type of photography you do.I agree. Obviously people can shoot however they're comfortable, and some specifically want a more naturalistic/neutral look, but that's generally not what I'm going for.I assume you shoot JPEG. If the JPEG images make you happy then you don't need to shoot RAW. For those of us who shoot RAW the JPEGs did not satisfy us. As far as flash, unless you use multiple flashes and reflectors it's totally impractical for most of us, On camera flashes are almost always less than desirable even when using bounce.
I will add that you do not need a crazy kit to get good off camera flash shots. When I'm doing a mobile shoot, I will bring a lightweight light stand, a speedlight, and a 24" soft box. It elevates the photos I can take exponentially compared to just using available light, and fits into a small duffel bag.
It all just depends on what kinds of pictures you're trying to take, what amount of inconvenience you're willing to endure to get them, and what level of quality you're willing to accept as the result.
Another case of "same premise, different conclusion" for me: for anything serious I always go the route via raw processing (actually using $0 non-AI processing software). But not for salvaging photographs but polishing them: you can pretty much always improve on a standard rendering by adapting the process the individual photograph, not because the photograph is bad but because it is deserving of the effort.The discussion is spiraling somewhat and slowly got to where it is, and I accept much of the blame for that. To summarize it a bit and get it back on topic:
And I will always think it's funny that the solution to every RX10IV problem is RAW+$200 AI editing software. It reminds me of "we'll fix it in post" jokes about Hollywood and content creators, or people that make crazy Photoshop requests. I am so uninterested in spending days hunched over my computer trying to salvage an hour's worth of pictures.
- I love my RX10IV for its versatility, but one thing that I feel it does worse than older, smaller Cybershot cameras I had before was close to medium distance portraits with flash.
- My solution was, and still is on my a7IV which has no flash, to use a speedlight, usually with a modifier.
- tbcass's solution is to instead shoot in RAW and process with advanced software.
- Both are valid options, with their own pros and cons
Another case of "same premise, different conclusion" for me: for anything serious I always go the route via raw processing (actually using $0 non-AI processing software). But not for salvaging photographs but polishing them: you can pretty much always improve on a standard rendering by adapting the process the individual photograph, not because the photograph is bad but because it is deserving of the effort.
"Salvaging" makes sense for forensic photography, but I find it rarely worth the trouble if you intend to end up with something worth looking at. When you start out with something bad, you tend to end up with something meh.