Calling All Canon DPP4 Users!

Zeee said:

Many years ago I was member of a daily online photo contest. I was a judge for one month out during a year. There were about 7 categories and judges got a different one every day. Animals, Still Life, B&W, Scenic to mention a few. Typically I had to look at and choose from between 200 to 300 files - per category, per day.

Rules were it had to be level, no dust, no halos from over sharpening and so on. Anything over processed was not admitted. There was a head judge who approved or not the daily judges choices. You could pretty much tell when someone went even a bit too far with HDR. Again all subjective and sure if someone was skilled enough to get close but not cross that line then not much you could do. It had to look natural and again that was subjective.

We've had long threads here about but how do you really know, etc which we didn't. I don't want to get into because it's like asking if you should be using a protective filter. Each human judge sees things differently. We did not have to submit original RAW files so there was nothing to compare to. It was what was and there were no big expensive prizes. It was a personal challenge and fun to wake up in the morning, get your coffee and see if you were on the front page.

We did have a category called digital art. Here is where you could go nuts. I did a quick search and found this which is what those entries looked like.

https://ca.images.search.yahoo.com/...9zAzEEdnRpZAMEc2VjA3Nj?p=digital+art&fr=yfp-t

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Zeee said:

That was 15 years ago. A lot has changed since then with technology. These days one way would be to also submit the original RAW file for any contest. Rules about destruction removal being allowed or not, sky replacement and things like that would have to be specified.

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hfjacinto said:

I will admit to using DPP for all my processing of Canon pictures.

I shoot in raw and process what I intend to print. I’m still old school so I do albums and photo books of our trips.

For social media or posting online I download the photos to my iPhone for posting.

i have other hobbies (coin collecting and astrophotography) and those I process on my laptop and post low resolution images (using photoshop and Astro imaging specific programs)

So I admit to using DPP and I’m pretty happy with it. I do wish it would let you go more than +- 3 on certain tools but I don’t like garish color either, so it works for what I need.

ive done 3 gallery shows and I haven’t heard many complaints about my pictures.

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Zeee said:

hfjacinto said:

I will admit to using DPP for all my processing of Canon pictures.

I shoot in raw and process what I intend to print. I’m still old school so I do albums and photo books of our trips.

For social media or posting online I download the photos to my iPhone for posting.

i have other hobbies (coin collecting and astrophotography) and those I process on my laptop and post low resolution images (using photoshop and Astro imaging specific programs)

So I admit to using DPP and I’m pretty happy with it. I do wish it would let you go more than +- 3 on certain tools but I don’t like garish color either, so it works for what I need.

ive done 3 gallery shows and I haven’t heard many complaints about my pictures.

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And you won't hear any complaints. These tech forums spend a lot of time pixel peeping which is not a bad thing.

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Zeee said:

That helps improve products and user skills. For what we do for ourselves and out our audience is usually much different. Not to say we shouldn't strive to achieve out personal goals.

--
When you fail - always "Fail Forward".

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Qimmiq said:

So I just opened my images in DPP for culling and the quality of the image displayed seems much better that using File Explorer :-D But I have a question. In my camera I have the 1x1 crop set up to help me compose better for IG. When I open in DPP it only shows the 1x1 preview but the full image thumbnail. Is there a way to view the preview as the full image and not the 1x1 crop?

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Qimmiq said:

So I just opened my images in DPP for culling and the quality of the image displayed seems much better that using File Explorer :-D But I have a question. In my camera I have the 1x1 crop set up to help me compose better for IG. When I open in DPP it only shows the 1x1 preview but the full image thumbnail. Is there a way to view the preview as the full image and not the 1x1 crop?

Click to expand...

RLight said:

I use it for culling; I’ll sort by stars I rate in camera, review those and further tag keepers on the big screen.

Regarding why I use it to edit: color. It has the most aesthetically pleasing results. That said, yes, it’s slow. I’m n a fast computer, less slow.

Regarding edit workflow; I shoot R5 II and R8, and have DLO enabled in camera, those carry over when converting from RAW to JPEG. Adjustments? I’ll punch auto, then move the exposure slider back to zero, shadows back to zero, observe how much it though to push exposure and shift the brightness to taste based off both how much the computer though, and what I think. Contrast needs a slight bump on older cameras or smaller formats. Think a whole stop on the G5X II, probably 0.6 in my former M6 II, maybe 0.3 on the R8, and none on the R5 II typically. On the R8 and older, not uncommon for me to use the WB picker to fine tune WB, but very rare on the R5II. Ironically, I don’t use DPP4 as much on the newer R5 II as I do older models; the auto exposure and auto white balance are just that smart on the DIGIC VA, but on the older R8? I’ll still pull a slider and WB picker.

Click to expand...

Qimmiq said:

So I just opened my images in DPP for culling and the quality of the image displayed seems much better that using File Explorer :-D But I have a question. In my camera I have the 1x1 crop set up to help me compose better for IG. When I open in DPP it only shows the 1x1 preview but the full image thumbnail. Is there a way to view the preview as the full image and not the 1x1 crop?

Click to expand...

Zeee said:

Qimmiq said:

So I just opened my images in DPP for culling and the quality of the image displayed seems much better that using File Explorer :-D But I have a question. In my camera I have the 1x1 crop set up to help me compose better for IG. When I open in DPP it only shows the 1x1 preview but the full image thumbnail. Is there a way to view the preview as the full image and not the 1x1 crop?

Click to expand...

I use Quick Check mode - Full screen. I’ve never seen a way to view two files. It does look great doesn’t it? Something special about that mode.

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lehane19 said:

I noticed that the bigger the window is the slower the image scroll is, when zoomed to x1 so the smaller the window is the better the overall software performance is. Sometimes I basically resize it to the smallest possible size (approx 2048x1400) and overall experience improves a lot, actually, it works as it should. This fact is staggering to me, how old the viewing engine is in it. Like 2006? This leads me to another thoughts. I wonder why Canon allows it? Development costs are a likely cause.

Looking at Nikon software... it's light years ahead.

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Zeee said:

I was once a die hard DPP user. The old Canon knows its own RAW engine best thingy. Great colours, etc. I always used it as my primary developer and then sent files to PS to finish, resize and then export. Back then I also preferred Adobe's downsizing algorithms but Canon did improve them over the years.

Great for hobby work but I found that a nightmare for event editing. No matter what scripts I created in PS, etc they were never consistent. It took about 4 trials and finally I adopted Lightroom about 13 years ago. I really started to warm up to LR for all my stuff.

I still keep DPP updated and use it all the time for pre-culling using Quick-Check - Full Screen mode. DPP's sizing algorithm for fit to screen display is very good and shows as a finished Jpeg so it looks great so easy to pick out unwanted files.

However it figures. Six months after I break down and start using LR, Canon introduces DLO. True digital deconvolution.

Here is where I have always been a little confused about DPP. Before DLO there was just Sharpness. Learning on this and other sites (I like others) discovered the 3 phases of sharpening. One reason why I used PS to finish. DPP only offered Sharpness which I guess was/is Capture Sharpening. Or is it for Output Sharpening - which I doubt. There is no output sharpening offered when you process a file using DPP. Most apps offer that at export. Back then to this day DPP still offers the Transfer to PS command. Perhaps this is why?

Back to DLO. Canon has dumped so many good articles and videos in the last 6 or so years. There are many links for DLO but not as good this one I had. It was sorta like a multi page rectangular book with coloured illustrations.

We know Capture sharpening is. Offsetting a lack of sharpness in the RAW image caused by technical limitations of our cameras. This might be caused by various factors such imperfections in lenses or an anti-alias filter on the sensor. Often USM is used as a Global correction. DLO goes further with corrects various optical aberrations, distortions, and other causes of image quality deterioration for each lens specifically.

So what is DLO? Capture sharpening and for the other aberrations and distortions? Or is it just for aberrations and distortions and then you use the Sharpness took to finish it off? Or is the tool for Output Sharpening - which again I doubt. Canon did add USM later as an option which is typical for Capture Sharpening as far as I know.

While writing this something occurred to me. DXO has a lens module but also offers USM. I read a user manual made by one of the members here. USM was there in case your lens was not on DXO's lens optical correction list. Is this the same for DPP?

I have given up trying to find that answer quite a long time ago. I'm still curios because DPP is on my list of possible replacements if Adobe ever ticks me off. Use something like Affinity to finish. I no longer shoot events.

-
When you fail - always "Fail Forward".

Click to expand...

Love_my_R5 said:

Zeee said:

I was once a die hard DPP user. The old Canon knows its own RAW engine best thingy. Great colours, etc. I always used it as my primary developer and then sent files to PS to finish, resize and then export. Back then I also preferred Adobe's downsizing algorithms but Canon did improve them over the years.

Great for hobby work but I found that a nightmare for event editing. No matter what scripts I created in PS, etc they were never consistent. It took about 4 trials and finally I adopted Lightroom about 13 years ago. I really started to warm up to LR for all my stuff.

I still keep DPP updated and use it all the time for pre-culling using Quick-Check - Full Screen mode. DPP's sizing algorithm for fit to screen display is very good and shows as a finished Jpeg so it looks great so easy to pick out unwanted files.

However it figures. Six months after I break down and start using LR, Canon introduces DLO. True digital deconvolution.

Here is where I have always been a little confused about DPP. Before DLO there was just Sharpness. Learning on this and other sites (I like others) discovered the 3 phases of sharpening. One reason why I used PS to finish. DPP only offered Sharpness which I guess was/is Capture Sharpening. Or is it for Output Sharpening - which I doubt. There is no output sharpening offered when you process a file using DPP. Most apps offer that at export. Back then to this day DPP still offers the Transfer to PS command. Perhaps this is why?

Back to DLO. Canon has dumped so many good articles and videos in the last 6 or so years. There are many links for DLO but not as good this one I had. It was sorta like a multi page rectangular book with coloured illustrations.

We know Capture sharpening is. Offsetting a lack of sharpness in the RAW image caused by technical limitations of our cameras. This might be caused by various factors such imperfections in lenses or an anti-alias filter on the sensor. Often USM is used as a Global correction. DLO goes further with corrects various optical aberrations, distortions, and other causes of image quality deterioration for each lens specifically.

So what is DLO? Capture sharpening and for the other aberrations and distortions? Or is it just for aberrations and distortions and then you use the Sharpness took to finish it off? Or is the tool for Output Sharpening - which again I doubt. Canon did add USM later as an option which is typical for Capture Sharpening as far as I know.

While writing this something occurred to me. DXO has a lens module but also offers USM. I read a user manual made by one of the members here. USM was there in case your lens was not on DXO's lens optical correction list. Is this the same for DPP?

I have given up trying to find that answer quite a long time ago. I'm still curios because DPP is on my list of possible replacements if Adobe ever ticks me off. Use something like Affinity to finish. I no longer shoot events.

-
When you fail - always "Fail Forward".

Click to expand...

FYI, I found a Canon article about Digital Lens Optimizer (DLO) in DPP at the following link:

https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/s/article/ART162839

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MAC said:

Zeee said:

Qimmiq said:

So I just opened my images in DPP for culling and the quality of the image displayed seems much better that using File Explorer :-D But I have a question. In my camera I have the 1x1 crop set up to help me compose better for IG. When I open in DPP it only shows the 1x1 preview but the full image thumbnail. Is there a way to view the preview as the full image and not the 1x1 crop?

Click to expand...

I use Quick Check mode - Full screen. I’ve never seen a way to view two files. It does look great doesn’t it? Something special about that mode.

Click to expand...

but full screen viewing in free faststone

but faststone has compare multiple photos mode where you can compare 2-4 photos

and using mouse roll wheel, you can magnify and you can move around in images to compare

yes DPP is free - but it isn't something I'm going to use often

I always cull in faststone before taking into dpp or lightroom - nothing beats the 1-3 sec per photo review and selection and if necessary comparing and magnifying and moving around inside photos on Full Screen

Click to expand...

GR8 said:

RLight said:

I use it for culling; I’ll sort by stars I rate in camera, review those and further tag keepers on the big screen.

Regarding why I use it to edit: color. It has the most aesthetically pleasing results. That said, yes, it’s slow. I’m n a fast computer, less slow.

Regarding edit workflow; I shoot R5 II and R8, and have DLO enabled in camera, those carry over when converting from RAW to JPEG. Adjustments? I’ll punch auto, then move the exposure slider back to zero, shadows back to zero, observe how much it though to push exposure and shift the brightness to taste based off both how much the computer though, and what I think. Contrast needs a slight bump on older cameras or smaller formats. Think a whole stop on the G5X II, probably 0.6 in my former M6 II, maybe 0.3 on the R8, and none on the R5 II typically. On the R8 and older, not uncommon for me to use the WB picker to fine tune WB, but very rare on the R5II. Ironically, I don’t use DPP4 as much on the newer R5 II as I do older models; the auto exposure and auto white balance are just that smart on the DIGIC VA, but on the older R8? I’ll still pull a slider and WB picker.

Click to expand...

Thanks very much for this response! I also use the R8. Are these generally the only editing adjustments you make in DPP? Do you stick with Standard or Portrait Picture Styles? Any thoughts on how best to use the USM or clarity sliders?

Click to expand...

RLight said:

I stick to "auto" actually; it's a picture style that the camera chooses at time of capture which it "thinks" applies. Typically it's a slight variant of Standard. Don't believe me? Try flipping between auto and standard, it varies ever so slightly.

Now, when I venture away from Auto, it's to either Fine Detail, or on occasion, and for just those occasions, landscape. It makes greens and blues punch harder (think foliage and sky or water)

If I do apply other sliders on the R8, it's saturation. Less is more. Typically, I apply about +0.3 saturation, if, desired. Contrast, somewhere between +0.2 and +0.5 at most. The auto button is pretty smart at finding how much highlights need to be adjusted to keep whites from clipping, but dumb at wanting to constantly push shadows which make your blacks no longer black. Word to the wise? Every shot needs a true black and a true white. Frequently, I'll take the suggestion by auto on highlight, but sometimes I won't. Say it suggests -4 highlights; if the results produces greys in the sky, I'll actually dial it back to say -3 or -2 till I have a white pop of some form. Likewise, I'll actually go negative on the shadows on occasion, say -0.5 or at most -1.0. Be careful, any positive values on contrast also introduce negative shadows. The idea is having a true black and a true white. Ansel Adams was very insistent on it, and I have to concur. So if you're punching contrast hard, be careful with reducing shadows, and vice versa.

Click to expand...

RLight said:

GR8 said:

RLight said:

I use it for culling; I’ll sort by stars I rate in camera, review those and further tag keepers on the big screen.

Regarding why I use it to edit: color. It has the most aesthetically pleasing results. That said, yes, it’s slow. I’m n a fast computer, less slow.

Regarding edit workflow; I shoot R5 II and R8, and have DLO enabled in camera, those carry over when converting from RAW to JPEG. Adjustments? I’ll punch auto, then move the exposure slider back to zero, shadows back to zero, observe how much it though to push exposure and shift the brightness to taste based off both how much the computer though, and what I think. Contrast needs a slight bump on older cameras or smaller formats. Think a whole stop on the G5X II, probably 0.6 in my former M6 II, maybe 0.3 on the R8, and none on the R5 II typically. On the R8 and older, not uncommon for me to use the WB picker to fine tune WB, but very rare on the R5II. Ironically, I don’t use DPP4 as much on the newer R5 II as I do older models; the auto exposure and auto white balance are just that smart on the DIGIC VA, but on the older R8? I’ll still pull a slider and WB picker.

Click to expand...

Thanks very much for this response! I also use the R8. Are these generally the only editing adjustments you make in DPP? Do you stick with Standard or Portrait Picture Styles? Any thoughts on how best to use the USM or clarity sliders?

Click to expand...

I stick to "auto" actually; it's a picture style that the camera chooses at time of capture which it "thinks" applies. Typically it's a slight variant of Standard. Don't believe me? Try flipping between auto and standard, it varies ever so slightly.

Now, when I venture away from Auto, it's to either Fine Detail, or on occasion, and for just those occasions, landscape. It makes greens and blues punch harder (think foliage and sky or water)

If I do apply other sliders on the R8, it's saturation. Less is more. Typically, I apply about +0.3 saturation, if, desired. Contrast, somewhere between +0.2 and +0.5 at most. The auto button is pretty smart at finding how much highlights need to be adjusted to keep whites from clipping, but dumb at wanting to constantly push shadows which make your blacks no longer black. Word to the wise? Every shot needs a true black and a true white. Frequently, I'll take the suggestion by auto on highlight, but sometimes I won't. Say it suggests -4 highlights; if the results produces greys in the sky, I'll actually dial it back to say -3 or -2 till I have a white pop of some form. Likewise, I'll actually go negative on the shadows on occasion, say -0.5 or at most -1.0. Be careful, any positive values on contrast also introduce negative shadows. The idea is having a true black and a true white. Ansel Adams was very insistent on it, and I have to concur. So if you're punching contrast hard, be careful with reducing shadows, and vice versa.

Click to expand...