EOS RP colour vs R8

It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
I agree that the R8 is superior to the RP though it shares the weakness in battery life. But I have the RP and also an R. I don't need to be buying more camera bodies right now.

I have looked at the Lumix S5 in the past and liked what I saw. I rented one for a few days a year or two ago along with a Sigma f/2.8 standard zoom (28-70mm?) . Other than the DFD wobble in continuous autofocus, it performed well. And the L lens mount has been filling out nicely. What I liked in particular, was that there were two lens manufacturers (Sigma and Panasonic) to choose from. I am particularly envious of the L mount 20-60mm zoom lens. What a great focal range!

I currently own Lumix M4/3 gear (two GH5S units) for theater and events, so the S5 would be a really good match. But the cost and inconvenience of switching is just too much.

If you like primes and a 24mm and 50mm fit your style of shooting, then the R8. RF 24mm and RF 50mm are a great setup.

As you were making your post, I was just making notes for myself on what it would take to make my RP my main travel and general purpose camera (versus a M4/3 camera). I mainly adapt EF lenses and my favorites right now, ironically, are my EF 24mm f/2.8 IS and EF 50mm f/1.4. The RF 24-105mm STM zoom would be very practical, but I have always enjoyed shooting with primes. I have travelled to both China and Japan in the past with a Canon 5D and EF28mm and EF50mm. And I didn't use the 50mm that much in those days (I have grown to like the 50mm focal length more in recent years).

And my second thought is that I accumulated some adapters from various 35mm camera mounts the last time I had an RP (Canon FD, Leica M39, Konica AR and Nikon F). That gives me many alternatives to the EF 50mm (about five as I recall). But it also allows me to look at adding a compact moderate telephoto such as an FD100mm or Konica 135mm. When I am shooting for fun, manual focus with the RP's focus peaking is actually nice.

Good luck with your R8 combo!
When I had an RP I mainly used it with the EF 50mm f1.8 STM. I still have the lens, I was using it on the S5 with the sigma adapter before the Lumix 50mm f1.8 existed. The S5 has the best IQ of any camera I’ve used, it just has weak AFC. The 20-60mm sold me on the camera I have used it extensively. I also tend to favour 24mm for travel, at 24mm f5.6 it’s excellent.

The only weakness with the S5 as a travel setup is; it’s probably one of the heaviest bodies in the segment. Thats where the RP/R8 has an advantage, they’re extremely light full frame cameras. I remember opening my bag once and just thinking “wow, look how much space this RP doesn’t take up”.
714g for the S5 vs. 485g for the RP. I just looked it up because I did not remember that the difference was that significant. 714 g is approaching Canon 6D territory! Now I understand your plan. You are also unburdened with legacy EF glass or DSLR’s, so you are starting from a clean plate.

The two copies of the LUMIX GH5S that I use are each 660g. That is why I am looking for a lighter alternative for leisure/travel use. The GH5S is the most comfortable camera I have ever experienced for multi hour jobs. And having two identical bodies is very helpful when working in no or low light. But It makes no pretense of being compact; it is a professional tool. But the irony that a full frame camera like the RP/R8 is a more compact option is striking.

I actually did buy an R8 about 15 months ago, along with an off brand battery grip because my experience with the RP shutting down without warning at important moments was quite negative. But the battery grip was very uncomfortable to hold. So I sent it all back after 24 hours. The images I took testing it out were impressive though. I think it is a good choice.
The weight difference gets even more pronounced when looking at the respective f1.8 primes. 300g for the Lumix 50mm f1.8 vs. 165g for the Canon RF 50mm f1.8.

So the total weight difference for the 50mm setups is something like 1,014g for the S5 vs. 650g for the RP/R8.
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
I agree that the R8 is superior to the RP though it shares the weakness in battery life. But I have the RP and also an R. I don't need to be buying more camera bodies right now.

I have looked at the Lumix S5 in the past and liked what I saw. I rented one for a few days a year or two ago along with a Sigma f/2.8 standard zoom (28-70mm?) . Other than the DFD wobble in continuous autofocus, it performed well. And the L lens mount has been filling out nicely. What I liked in particular, was that there were two lens manufacturers (Sigma and Panasonic) to choose from. I am particularly envious of the L mount 20-60mm zoom lens. What a great focal range!

I currently own Lumix M4/3 gear (two GH5S units) for theater and events, so the S5 would be a really good match. But the cost and inconvenience of switching is just too much.

If you like primes and a 24mm and 50mm fit your style of shooting, then the R8. RF 24mm and RF 50mm are a great setup.

As you were making your post, I was just making notes for myself on what it would take to make my RP my main travel and general purpose camera (versus a M4/3 camera). I mainly adapt EF lenses and my favorites right now, ironically, are my EF 24mm f/2.8 IS and EF 50mm f/1.4. The RF 24-105mm STM zoom would be very practical, but I have always enjoyed shooting with primes. I have travelled to both China and Japan in the past with a Canon 5D and EF28mm and EF50mm. And I didn't use the 50mm that much in those days (I have grown to like the 50mm focal length more in recent years).

And my second thought is that I accumulated some adapters from various 35mm camera mounts the last time I had an RP (Canon FD, Leica M39, Konica AR and Nikon F). That gives me many alternatives to the EF 50mm (about five as I recall). But it also allows me to look at adding a compact moderate telephoto such as an FD100mm or Konica 135mm. When I am shooting for fun, manual focus with the RP's focus peaking is actually nice.

Good luck with your R8 combo!
When I had an RP I mainly used it with the EF 50mm f1.8 STM. I still have the lens, I was using it on the S5 with the sigma adapter before the Lumix 50mm f1.8 existed. The S5 has the best IQ of any camera I’ve used, it just has weak AFC. The 20-60mm sold me on the camera I have used it extensively. I also tend to favour 24mm for travel, at 24mm f5.6 it’s excellent.

The only weakness with the S5 as a travel setup is; it’s probably one of the heaviest bodies in the segment. Thats where the RP/R8 has an advantage, they’re extremely light full frame cameras. I remember opening my bag once and just thinking “wow, look how much space this RP doesn’t take up”.
714g for the S5 vs. 485g for the RP. I just looked it up because I did not remember that the difference was that significant. 714 g is approaching Canon 6D territory! Now I understand your plan. You are also unburdened with legacy EF glass or DSLR’s, so you are starting from a clean plate.

The two copies of the LUMIX GH5S that I use are each 660g. That is why I am looking for a lighter alternative for leisure/travel use. The GH5S is the most comfortable camera I have ever experienced for multi hour jobs. And having two identical bodies is very helpful when working in no or low light. But It makes no pretense of being compact; it is a professional tool. But the irony that a full frame camera like the RP/R8 is a more compact option is striking.

I actually did buy an R8 about 15 months ago, along with an off brand battery grip because my experience with the RP shutting down without warning at important moments was quite negative. But the battery grip was very uncomfortable to hold. So I sent it all back after 24 hours. The images I took testing it out were impressive though. I think it is a good choice.
The weight difference gets even more pronounced when looking at the respective f1.8 primes. 300g for the Lumix 50mm f1.8 vs. 165g for the Canon RF 50mm f1.8.

So the total weight difference for the 50mm setups is something like 1,014g for the S5 vs. 650g for the RP/R8.
Interesting Comparison: The brand new M4/3 OM System OM3 and the new 25mm f/1.7 lens weighs exactly the same amount - 650g. There are lots of differences in features and price, but we certainly have some interesting choices.
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
 
I agree that the R8 is superior to the RP though it shares the weakness in battery life.
I actually don't think the R8 battery life is particularly poor - unless you compare it with a xD or xxD DSLR.

I seldom review photos in the field, and tend not to muck around with settings etc too much either, and my battery life on both R8 & R10 FAR exceeds the stated CIPA numbers.

On a zoo day I took about 4,500 photos with R8, including some decent bursts admittedly, and I used about 1½ batteries. On most outings I seldom change batteries. I have also got into the habit (after owning a M5 for a few years) of flicking the power switch off unless I think I will be shooting again very soon - because the camera, especially with a smaller lens like EF-M 22mm, tended to keep waking itself up.

I will admit that it is noticeably worse than the battery life on my 70D or 6D ii, where I seldom needed a second battery. But unless you are comparing directly with cameras like these, R8 really isn't too bad.

I do think that the battery life of the LP-E17 based cameras is generally criticised a little unfairly, probably based on the poor numbers given on spec sheets.

The upside of LP-E17 is that the genuine batteries are pretty cheap compared to the latest LP-E6 variants :-)
 
I agree that the R8 is superior to the RP though it shares the weakness in battery life.
I actually don't think the R8 battery life is particularly poor - unless you compare it with a xD or xxD DSLR.

I seldom review photos in the field, and tend not to muck around with settings etc too much either, and my battery life on both R8 & R10 FAR exceeds the stated CIPA numbers.

On a zoo day I took about 4,500 photos with R8, including some decent bursts admittedly, and I used about 1½ batteries. On most outings I seldom change batteries. I have also got into the habit (after owning a M5 for a few years) of flicking the power switch off unless I think I will be shooting again very soon - because the camera, especially with a smaller lens like EF-M 22mm, tended to keep waking itself up.

I will admit that it is noticeably worse than the battery life on my 70D or 6D ii, where I seldom needed a second battery. But unless you are comparing directly with cameras like these, R8 really isn't too bad.

I do think that the battery life of the LP-E17 based cameras is generally criticised a little unfairly, probably based on the poor numbers given on spec sheets.

The upside of LP-E17 is that the genuine batteries are pretty cheap compared to the latest LP-E6 variants :-)
I was basing my comments solely based on my experience with the RP for event photography. That means continuous activity for several hours with two cameras (one wide and one with a modest telephoto or standard zoom). In total for a very long event, that could be 1,000+ images in one day (or evening) between the two units. Some of the time, I will be carrying both and they would both be on. Other times, especially at a dinner, I put one down so I can concentrate on just one type of shooting (and I have been known to briefly forget which table I left the one I put down!). But the RP had a knack for dying just before a critical moment. Without a percentage battery indicator, it really isn’t easy to anticipate when it will happen.

I never shoot bursts at an event. 1,000 images is enough to go through without bursts adding hundred more!

If I am shooting a dress rehearsal of a stage play that has an intermission, I change batteries as soon as the lights come up. Events are harder to predict timing on.

It doesn’t take long to change batteries, but it is a distraction. And if the timing is bad, you may have a disappointed client.

You also have to be disciplined in your battery management. You have to make sure the batteries you bring are in fact fully charged and that the spent batteries you bring home are put on the charger and that you don’t mix up charged and uncharged batteries. And with the RP, you need at least two spare batteries with you.

It is of course possible that the R8 is more efficient than the RP, but I haven’t seen anyone mention that.

When I am using two Canon cameras for an event (I always use two and sometimes three but not necessarily all Canon), the main unit is my EOS R. Even though it uses a larger battery and does have a percentage indicator, sometimes it catches me by surprise when I get the low battery warning. So, I recently bought the Canon battery grip and it can go all day now. Logically, two EOS R units would be practical. But an R with a battery grip is fairly heavy and carrying two would equal an aching back and/or neck.,
 
I agree that the R8 is superior to the RP though it shares the weakness in battery life.
I actually don't think the R8 battery life is particularly poor - unless you compare it with a xD or xxD DSLR.

I seldom review photos in the field, and tend not to muck around with settings etc too much either, and my battery life on both R8 & R10 FAR exceeds the stated CIPA numbers.

On a zoo day I took about 4,500 photos with R8, including some decent bursts admittedly, and I used about 1½ batteries. On most outings I seldom change batteries. I have also got into the habit (after owning a M5 for a few years) of flicking the power switch off unless I think I will be shooting again very soon - because the camera, especially with a smaller lens like EF-M 22mm, tended to keep waking itself up.

I will admit that it is noticeably worse than the battery life on my 70D or 6D ii, where I seldom needed a second battery. But unless you are comparing directly with cameras like these, R8 really isn't too bad.

I do think that the battery life of the LP-E17 based cameras is generally criticised a little unfairly, probably based on the poor numbers given on spec sheets.

The upside of LP-E17 is that the genuine batteries are pretty cheap compared to the latest LP-E6 variants :-)
I was basing my comments solely based on my experience with the RP for event photography. That means continuous activity for several hours with two cameras (one wide and one with a modest telephoto or standard zoom). In total for a very long event, that could be 1,000+ images in one day (or evening) between the two units. Some of the time, I will be carrying both and they would both be on. Other times, especially at a dinner, I put one down so I can concentrate on just one type of shooting (and I have been known to briefly forget which table I left the one I put down!). But the RP had a knack for dying just before a critical moment. Without a percentage battery indicator, it really isn’t easy to anticipate when it will happen.

I never shoot bursts at an event. 1,000 images is enough to go through without bursts adding hundred more!

If I am shooting a dress rehearsal of a stage play that has an intermission, I change batteries as soon as the lights come up. Events are harder to predict timing on.

It doesn’t take long to change batteries, but it is a distraction. And if the timing is bad, you may have a disappointed client.

You also have to be disciplined in your battery management. You have to make sure the batteries you bring are in fact fully charged and that the spent batteries you bring home are put on the charger and that you don’t mix up charged and uncharged batteries. And with the RP, you need at least two spare batteries with you.

It is of course possible that the R8 is more efficient than the RP, but I haven’t seen anyone mention that.
When I am using two Canon cameras for an event (I always use two and sometimes three but not necessarily all Canon), the main unit is my EOS R. Even though it uses a larger battery and does have a percentage indicator, sometimes it catches me by surprise when I get the low battery warning. So, I recently bought the Canon battery grip and it can go all day now. Logically, two EOS R units would be practical. But an R with a battery grip is fairly heavy and carrying two would equal an aching back and/or neck.,
Fair enough - I wasn't thinking of professional shooting. Generally I try to switch a battery as soon as the warning comes up, but that could be awkward in a event situation. If something is more "critical" I will install a fresh battery before the start. I bought a little (soft) pouch that takes 4 LP-E17 batteries in individual slots, and I have a system where I always take batteries from one end and move them up as I use them and put the spent batteries in the "other end" slots (with the covers reversed), so it is easy to tell which ones need to be charged.

And no, I am not aware that R8 is better for battery life than RP.

And yes, I agree that the battery meters are appalling for a $1000+ item - a $50 phone has a better indicator.
 
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Fair enough - I wasn't thinking of professional shooting. Generally I try to switch a battery as soon as the warning comes up, but that could be awkward in a event situation. If something is more "critical" I will install a fresh battery before the start. I bought a little (soft) pouch that takes 4 LP-E17 batteries in individual slots, and I have a system where I always take batteries from one end and move them up as I use them and put the spent batteries in the "other end" slots (with the covers reversed), so it is easy to tell which ones need to be charged.

And no, I am not aware that R8 is better for battery life than RP.
That is the kind of system you need. Unfortunately, I have not been that disciplined. Some time ago I raised this issue here and someone said very simply, just carry one with you. At that point, I had a place in my camera bag where I kept all my spare batteries (all in pouches or covered in some way). It just had not occurred to me to carry one with me at all times. So that is what I do now. Keeping track of which ones have been discharged is a challenge though.
 
This is the pouch I bought


It might take a LP-E6 but it might be tight- LP-E17 slots in quite easily. Small and soft enough to carry in a shirt pocket if required.
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
This.

The thing is that most people define "brand colors" by looking at the rendition in either the JPEG files or the camera matching profiles provided by a RAW converter, in my case Adobe.

This would be perfectly fine if the look was consistent but it is not - at least not in Adobe. R8 is actually quite different compared to RP if we are talking about the look from the pre-made profiles. Make no mistake, the R8 is more neutral and flat with the matching profiles (in some light and scenes it is downright dull and "anemic"). But as mentioned earlier - the best approach is to understand and learn color processing. Start asking yourself questions like:

- Why do I like the colors from camera A better?
- What do I NOT like about the colors from camera B?
- Is it all colors or certain ones?
- Do the colors change when I switch lens? Canon, Sigma, Tamron? They are different.
- How can I tweak camera B to look more like camera A.

Identify the hues, tonality, contrast and saturation levels. Start playing with profile editing and color grading. Only then can you make peace with color management IF you prefer a certain look. Chasing older cameras is not an ideal solution. It could be fun of course and a good resource to use for color comparison but in the end you're better off learing it the hard way and stick with modern cameras.

The good old Canon days with fully baked colors out of cam are gone - at least in the semi-pro and pro line and especially in Adobes software. Other converters are more consistent, like DXO.
 
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It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
This.

The thing is that most people define "brand colors" by looking at the rendition in either the JPEG files or the camera matching profiles provided by a RAW converter, in my case Adobe.

This would be perfectly fine if the look was consistent but it is not - at least not in Adobe. R8 is actually quite different compared to RP if we are talking about the look from the pre-made profiles. Make no mistake, the R8 is more neutral and flat with the matching profiles (in some light and scenes it is downright dull and "anemic"). But as mentioned earlier - the best approach is to understand and learn color processing. Start asking yourself questions like:

- Why do I like the colors from camera A better?
- What do I NOT like about the colors from camera B?
- Is it all colors or certain ones?
- Do the colors change when I switch lens? Canon, Sigma, Tamron? They are different.
- How can I tweak camera B to look more like camera A.

Identify the hues, tonality, contrast and saturation levels. Start playing with profile editing and color grading. Only then can you make peace with color management IF you prefer a certain look. Chasing older cameras is not an ideal solution. It could be fun of course and a good resource to use for color comparison but in the end you're better off learing it the hard way and stick with modern cameras.

The good old Canon days with fully baked colors out of cam are gone - at least in the semi-pro and pro line and especially in Adobes software. Other converters are more consistent, like DXO.
From the RP I liked the natural looking skin, and the way green was rendered. Green grass always looked properly green, other cameras I find often have a slightly yellow tint. I found adobe profiles for the RP matched jpeg colours well. I can replicate this to some degree on my S5. In fact starting from the natural profile I can get pretty nice skin from the S5.
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
This.

The thing is that most people define "brand colors" by looking at the rendition in either the JPEG files or the camera matching profiles provided by a RAW converter, in my case Adobe.

This would be perfectly fine if the look was consistent but it is not - at least not in Adobe. R8 is actually quite different compared to RP if we are talking about the look from the pre-made profiles. Make no mistake, the R8 is more neutral and flat with the matching profiles (in some light and scenes it is downright dull and "anemic"). But as mentioned earlier - the best approach is to understand and learn color processing. Start asking yourself questions like:

- Why do I like the colors from camera A better?
- What do I NOT like about the colors from camera B?
- Is it all colors or certain ones?
- Do the colors change when I switch lens? Canon, Sigma, Tamron? They are different.
- How can I tweak camera B to look more like camera A.

Identify the hues, tonality, contrast and saturation levels. Start playing with profile editing and color grading. Only then can you make peace with color management IF you prefer a certain look. Chasing older cameras is not an ideal solution. It could be fun of course and a good resource to use for color comparison but in the end you're better off learing it the hard way and stick with modern cameras.

The good old Canon days with fully baked colors out of cam are gone - at least in the semi-pro and pro line and especially in Adobes software. Other converters are more consistent, like DXO.
From the RP I liked the natural looking skin, and the way green was rendered. Green grass always looked properly green, other cameras I find often have a slightly yellow tint. I found adobe profiles for the RP matched jpeg colours well. I can replicate this to some degree on my S5. In fact starting from the natural profile I can get pretty nice skin from the S5.
Have you actually tried an R8 yet? If not, this whole discussion is theoretical, not that it’s a problem. However, there are plenty of us getting perfectly satisfactory results from an R8, who have had other bodies previously, including RP. So I really don’t think you need to be concerned.

OTOH if you have an S5 and are happy with the output, why change to another system?
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
This.

The thing is that most people define "brand colors" by looking at the rendition in either the JPEG files or the camera matching profiles provided by a RAW converter, in my case Adobe.

This would be perfectly fine if the look was consistent but it is not - at least not in Adobe. R8 is actually quite different compared to RP if we are talking about the look from the pre-made profiles. Make no mistake, the R8 is more neutral and flat with the matching profiles (in some light and scenes it is downright dull and "anemic"). But as mentioned earlier - the best approach is to understand and learn color processing. Start asking yourself questions like:

- Why do I like the colors from camera A better?
- What do I NOT like about the colors from camera B?
- Is it all colors or certain ones?
- Do the colors change when I switch lens? Canon, Sigma, Tamron? They are different.
- How can I tweak camera B to look more like camera A.

Identify the hues, tonality, contrast and saturation levels. Start playing with profile editing and color grading. Only then can you make peace with color management IF you prefer a certain look. Chasing older cameras is not an ideal solution. It could be fun of course and a good resource to use for color comparison but in the end you're better off learing it the hard way and stick with modern cameras.

The good old Canon days with fully baked colors out of cam are gone - at least in the semi-pro and pro line and especially in Adobes software. Other converters are more consistent, like DXO.
From the RP I liked the natural looking skin, and the way green was rendered. Green grass always looked properly green, other cameras I find often have a slightly yellow tint. I found adobe profiles for the RP matched jpeg colours well. I can replicate this to some degree on my S5. In fact starting from the natural profile I can get pretty nice skin from the S5.
Have you actually tried an R8 yet? If not, this whole discussion is theoretical, not that it’s a problem. However, there are plenty of us getting perfectly satisfactory results from an R8, who have had other bodies previously, including RP. So I really don’t think you need to be concerned.

OTOH if you have an S5 and are happy with the output, why change to another system?
I haven’t tried an R8, aside from briefly handling in a shop but it’s basically the same body as the RP. I’ve only been able to judge from sample images and online discussion as to how the colours compare.

I am mostly happy with the S5. But it’s a system I got into 5 years ago because the RP had poor 4K video support and at the time canons better options were painfully expensive, as were all of the lens options. There are many video features in the S5 that are actually overkill for me, despite it being so affordable. An R8 could potentially replacement my S5 while being much lighter with vastly superior AF. In fact had the RP supported full sensor 4k I likely would have been a canon customer for the last 5 years. However the big question is, am I going to like the image from an R8 as much as the RP? This maybe something I need to test out by getting hold of the camera.
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
This.

The thing is that most people define "brand colors" by looking at the rendition in either the JPEG files or the camera matching profiles provided by a RAW converter, in my case Adobe.

This would be perfectly fine if the look was consistent but it is not - at least not in Adobe. R8 is actually quite different compared to RP if we are talking about the look from the pre-made profiles. Make no mistake, the R8 is more neutral and flat with the matching profiles (in some light and scenes it is downright dull and "anemic"). But as mentioned earlier - the best approach is to understand and learn color processing. Start asking yourself questions like:

- Why do I like the colors from camera A better?
- What do I NOT like about the colors from camera B?
- Is it all colors or certain ones?
- Do the colors change when I switch lens? Canon, Sigma, Tamron? They are different.
- How can I tweak camera B to look more like camera A.

Identify the hues, tonality, contrast and saturation levels. Start playing with profile editing and color grading. Only then can you make peace with color management IF you prefer a certain look. Chasing older cameras is not an ideal solution. It could be fun of course and a good resource to use for color comparison but in the end you're better off learing it the hard way and stick with modern cameras.

The good old Canon days with fully baked colors out of cam are gone - at least in the semi-pro and pro line and especially in Adobes software. Other converters are more consistent, like DXO.
From the RP I liked the natural looking skin, and the way green was rendered. Green grass always looked properly green, other cameras I find often have a slightly yellow tint. I found adobe profiles for the RP matched jpeg colours well. I can replicate this to some degree on my S5. In fact starting from the natural profile I can get pretty nice skin from the S5.
Have you actually tried an R8 yet? If not, this whole discussion is theoretical, not that it’s a problem. However, there are plenty of us getting perfectly satisfactory results from an R8, who have had other bodies previously, including RP. So I really don’t think you need to be concerned.

OTOH if you have an S5 and are happy with the output, why change to another system?
I haven’t tried an R8, aside from briefly handling in a shop but it’s basically the same body as the RP. I’ve only been able to judge from sample images and online discussion as to how the colours compare.

I am mostly happy with the S5. But it’s a system I got into 5 years ago because the RP had poor 4K video support and at the time canons better options were painfully expensive, as were all of the lens options. There are many video features in the S5 that are actually overkill for me, despite it being so affordable. An R8 could potentially replacement my S5 while being much lighter with vastly superior AF. In fact had the RP supported full sensor 4k I likely would have been a canon customer for the last 5 years. However the big question is, am I going to like the image from an R8 as much as the RP? This maybe something I need to test out by getting hold of the camera.
Have you downloaded any R8 RAW files from this site?

 
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I’ve only been able to judge from sample images and online discussion as to how the colours compare.
This is an impossible task.

The only way is side by side comparison with equal settings. Which mean no awb. All manual, same scene, seconds apart.

ive yet to see any good comparisons in this manner. I suspect this «Color science» thing, is mostly psychological and «everything were better back in the day» kinda thing.
 
I’ve only been able to judge from sample images and online discussion as to how the colours compare.
I suspect this «Color science» thing, is mostly psychological and «everything were better back in the day» kinda thing.
Well, we are all different and respond to colors in different ways. It's difficult to describe how and why though. But I think you're right about nostalgia. I tend to prefer warm, rich colors, think Technicolor in the 80's. Red, brown warm, rich and saturated. Why? Probably because I grew up with it.

There is a swedish documentary about Harlem in the early 80's. I don't know which film they used but the colors are so frikkin lovely. It kind of reminds me of Kodachrome but not as saturated and blue. You can watch it here:


As for digital files, my first DSLR was a Konica Minolta and its rendition then reminded me a bit of that look with some tweaking and optimistic mindset. Could have been the lenses, not sure. I then went Nikon and color work got so much harder. I always felt Canon and Minolta looked better. I finally gave up and went for the EOS 5D and been in the Canon camp since then.

So the colors and "science" is very real but it all boils down to how the parameters are set by the maker, the RAW converter and skills in color management. If one prefers a certain look (say EOS RP in this case) it might be easy or difficult to replicate depending on the user.

That said, a lot of photographers don't bother that much. They have a solid workflow, a great converter and some default looks that work no matter which camera they use. Everyone should go for that IMO. We can't rely on camera makers anymore to get the colors we want.
 
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It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
This.

The thing is that most people define "brand colors" by looking at the rendition in either the JPEG files or the camera matching profiles provided by a RAW converter, in my case Adobe.

This would be perfectly fine if the look was consistent but it is not - at least not in Adobe. R8 is actually quite different compared to RP if we are talking about the look from the pre-made profiles. Make no mistake, the R8 is more neutral and flat with the matching profiles (in some light and scenes it is downright dull and "anemic"). But as mentioned earlier - the best approach is to understand and learn color processing. Start asking yourself questions like:

- Why do I like the colors from camera A better?
- What do I NOT like about the colors from camera B?
- Is it all colors or certain ones?
- Do the colors change when I switch lens? Canon, Sigma, Tamron? They are different.
- How can I tweak camera B to look more like camera A.

Identify the hues, tonality, contrast and saturation levels. Start playing with profile editing and color grading. Only then can you make peace with color management IF you prefer a certain look. Chasing older cameras is not an ideal solution. It could be fun of course and a good resource to use for color comparison but in the end you're better off learing it the hard way and stick with modern cameras.

The good old Canon days with fully baked colors out of cam are gone - at least in the semi-pro and pro line and especially in Adobes software. Other converters are more consistent, like DXO.
From the RP I liked the natural looking skin, and the way green was rendered. Green grass always looked properly green, other cameras I find often have a slightly yellow tint. I found adobe profiles for the RP matched jpeg colours well. I can replicate this to some degree on my S5. In fact starting from the natural profile I can get pretty nice skin from the S5.
Have you actually tried an R8 yet? If not, this whole discussion is theoretical, not that it’s a problem. However, there are plenty of us getting perfectly satisfactory results from an R8, who have had other bodies previously, including RP. So I really don’t think you need to be concerned.

OTOH if you have an S5 and are happy with the output, why change to another system?
I haven’t tried an R8, aside from briefly handling in a shop but it’s basically the same body as the RP. I’ve only been able to judge from sample images and online discussion as to how the colours compare.

I am mostly happy with the S5. But it’s a system I got into 5 years ago because the RP had poor 4K video support and at the time canons better options were painfully expensive, as were all of the lens options. There are many video features in the S5 that are actually overkill for me, despite it being so affordable. An R8 could potentially replacement my S5 while being much lighter with vastly superior AF. In fact had the RP supported full sensor 4k I likely would have been a canon customer for the last 5 years. However the big question is, am I going to like the image from an R8 as much as the RP? This maybe something I need to test out by getting hold of the camera.
Have you downloaded any R8 RAW files from this site?

https://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/slrs/canon_eosr8/sample-photos
Ive not played with the raws but I’ve been through the RP and the R8 galleries. To my eye there are nicer images in the RP gallery. But the RP gallery was shot with a whole bunch of high end lenses, whereas the R8 gallery was shot mostly with the 24-50mm collapsible kit lens. So probably not the fairest comparisons.
 
Yes I totally agree.

I have started to use custom profiles a lot, when shooting jpegs.

I use the «urban» pack from Thomas Frasson a lot. I really like the colors from these film simulations.

 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
"The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different"

This is not necessarily so...

that camera from brand A produces different colours to brand B is consistent regardless fo the RAW processing as the colour science is embedded in the ASIC of the sensors make up. We also have different sensors that produce specific colour responses as a result of hardware makeup.

We can see these differences when we look at output from a CCD sensor vs CMOS - whilst you might get close to replicating this look via RAW processing, you will never get it spot on. The look a certain sensor produces is also a result of things such as DR, aliasing filters etc... The look of older Canon senors (and older sensors such as the D700) are far more difficult to reproduce simply through RAW processing as it is the actual make up of the sensor that contributes to its overall look and colour response.

I held onto my D700 for a long time because the results where not possible to replicate on the Sony A7R series that replaced my D810's for instance. Same as I could not replicate Canon greens on a Nikon sensor. One can get close, but if you are wanting something specific, close is not always good enough, where you can just use the preferred camera to get the preferred result.

I brought the RP over the R8 specifically for the look the sensor provided. The trade off for DR high ISO etc.. was a lesser preference vs the overall look of the files as processed RAWS.
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
"The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different"

This is not necessarily so...

that camera from brand A produces different colours to brand B is consistent regardless fo the RAW processing as the colour science is embedded in the ASIC of the sensors make up. We also have different sensors that produce specific colour responses as a result of hardware makeup.

We can see these differences when we look at output from a CCD sensor vs CMOS - whilst you might get close to replicating this look via RAW processing, you will never get it spot on. The look a certain sensor produces is also a result of things such as DR, aliasing filters etc... The look of older Canon senors (and older sensors such as the D700) are far more difficult to reproduce simply through RAW processing as it is the actual make up of the sensor that contributes to its overall look and colour response.

I held onto my D700 for a long time because the results where not possible to replicate on the Sony A7R series that replaced my D810's for instance. Same as I could not replicate Canon greens on a Nikon sensor. One can get close, but if you are wanting something specific, close is not always good enough, where you can just use the preferred camera to get the preferred result.

I brought the RP over the R8 specifically for the look the sensor provided. The trade off for DR high ISO etc.. was a lesser preference vs the overall look of the files as processed RAWS.
This is true however there is sooo much to consider when it comes to color rendition. Even though certain cameras seem to have a "baked in" look in the RAW files it could be how the in-body image processor is decoding the sensor when the RAW file is generated in the camera or the dyes of the CFA or white balance algorithms. On top of that you have the IR/UV filters and finally lens brand and choice of lens that also have a big impact on color rendition.

Then you have the demosaicing process and choice of RAW converter AND camera profiles.

That said, when using Adobes software and their profiles (including camera matching profiles) I do agree that the RP (and most older Canons for that metter) looks much more pleasing vs the modern Canon stuff. But all bets are off when you start to mess around with color profiles, different software, lenses and so on.

It's complicated. But fun :-)

Ps. I never understood the CCD myth. I don't think it's the sensor per se, more how they tuned the algorithms and profiles to be honest. The old Canon 5D is known to have jawdropping color output and is hard to beat even today. And it has CMOS.
 
It seems most people believe the colours are not too far away. I’ve been having a look into the R8 a bit more, it’s more expensive but tbh the price isn't really a concern. Although given how much more powerful the R8 is, it could potentially be a light weight replacement for my Lumix S5. Canons RF lens range has much expanded since I had the RP, an RF 24mm f1.8 and 50mm f1.8 would probably do most of what I want.
The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different.
"The colors are not much different IF YOU PROCESS RAW FILES EFFECTIVELY. If you don't really take advantage of raw files, they are likely to be quite different"

This is not necessarily so...

that camera from brand A produces different colours to brand B is consistent regardless fo the RAW processing as the colour science is embedded in the ASIC of the sensors make up. We also have different sensors that produce specific colour responses as a result of hardware makeup.

We can see these differences when we look at output from a CCD sensor vs CMOS - whilst you might get close to replicating this look via RAW processing, you will never get it spot on. The look a certain sensor produces is also a result of things such as DR, aliasing filters etc... The look of older Canon senors (and older sensors such as the D700) are far more difficult to reproduce simply through RAW processing as it is the actual make up of the sensor that contributes to its overall look and colour response.

I held onto my D700 for a long time because the results where not possible to replicate on the Sony A7R series that replaced my D810's for instance. Same as I could not replicate Canon greens on a Nikon sensor. One can get close, but if you are wanting something specific, close is not always good enough, where you can just use the preferred camera to get the preferred result.

I brought the RP over the R8 specifically for the look the sensor provided. The trade off for DR high ISO etc.. was a lesser preference vs the overall look of the files as processed RAWS.
This is true however there is sooo much to consider when it comes to color rendition. Even though certain cameras seem to have a "baked in" look in the RAW files it could be how the in-body image processor is decoding the sensor when the RAW file is generated in the camera or the dyes of the CFA or white balance algorithms. On top of that you have the IR/UV filters and finally lens brand and choice of lens that also have a big impact on color rendition.

Then you have the demosaicing process and choice of RAW converter AND camera profiles.

That said, when using Adobes software and their profiles (including camera matching profiles) I do agree that the RP (and most older Canons for that metter) looks much more pleasing vs the modern Canon stuff. But all bets are off when you start to mess around with color profiles, different software, lenses and so on.

It's complicated. But fun :-)

Ps. I never understood the CCD myth. I don't think it's the sensor per se, more how they tuned the algorithms and profiles to be honest. The old Canon 5D is known to have jawdropping color output and is hard to beat even today. And it has CMOS.
I get where you’re coming from, but most tend to have a workflow around a specific software.

I work with Adobe and have always worked with my own custom presets and still come to the same findings regarding colour response from specific hardware. I’m referring to the hardware variation as it applies to individual processing as to what fits my preferences.

The issue with trying to replicate a sensors “look” via building colour profiles etc. it’s that colour profiles/presents are static values. So, even with custom profiles, you’re essentially pushing a shape over a waveform, not interacting with or reproducing the sensor's inherent behaviour.

A sensors response is dynamic and at the same time a constant - so every variation in the capture process applies. Applying static profiles or present values do not account for this.

That CCD sensors perform differently is not a myth. They read pixel data sequentially and often have a more linear response curve with smoother highlight roll-off and more gradual tonal transitions. You cannot replicate these qualities faithfully via PP in the same vain.

There is a big difference in manipulating output vs native input of how the sensor renders. Why it is also difficult if not impossible to recreate the look of a 5D classic with an R5ii for example. We are dealing with very different physical characteristics of these sensors that lends to a particular look. In the case of the 5D it has a lot to do with its pixel count and the lower DR aliasing filter etc… The new Canon cameras do not look the same because the DR has seen significant increases; a trade off that in my experience results in a flatter look.
 
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