RF 800mm f11 sharpest against RF 200-800 & 100-500 w/TC ?

Phil Katch has performed a comparison of these three lenses (
). His finding is that the RF 800mm f11 is the sharpest of the group.

Granted, the zooms are much, much, more flexible in real world use.

My question is not whether one or the other is the most useful, but at the same reach, is the RF 800mm f11 really as sharp or sharper ? If so, then it's an amazing value.

Any personal experience to share regarding sharpness ?
No personal experience, as I opted to add 1.4x to my 100-500 rather than add the 800 f11 to my kit, so I only know half the story

But this comparison did help me to make my choice: https://www.the-digital-picture.com...ensComp=1513&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

From what it looks to me, the zoom combo is sharper. It also has more CA, but that's easily corrected

Having said that, these lenses are so good, I would choose based on usability. Afterall, it doesn't matter how sharp if you leave it at home
but that's comparing the lens at different apertures and different focal lengths
That's also what you get in real world when using them. We already know going into this discussion that the focal lengths will not match. In such cases, I often look at what IQ I can get wide open and then take it from there. You can always match the aperture in the tool, stopping down only improves the 100-500 marginally
but someone with both lens could compare the lens at the same aperture, same focal length and same camera (with extender on 100-500)
Well, with 1.4x, you can only get to 700mm. The 800 prime cannot zoom out to 700mm. Granted you can compare at 800mm using 2x extender, but people who use 2x usually want to shoot at 1000mm which the prime again cannot do

You can already compare at same aperture in the tool as I mentioned before

For me, it was simple. I was considering 1.4x, so the linked tool had all I needed to see.
For me it's also simple - if you need or want 800mm then 200-800 is good
Hello, I have the RF 200-800mm with my R8, and I don't like it. At 800 F9 it's smooth, I'm pretty sure the RF800 F11 is better.
I'm thinking of switching to 100-500 L with TC 1.4, from what we can see, it's the best combo in this price range.
Or I take an R5, which we find works well, with an RF 800 F11, I'm almost sure that it will do a better job than the R8 + 200-800 combo.
Either way you’re spending a lot more money. What issues are you having with your 200-800 and R8? I’ve been very pleased with the exact same setup. I actually find the AF of the R6 noticeably better than the R5 though you do get more MPs. The RF 800mm f/11 has very similar detail levels but with lower contrast so I’m not sure you’d be any happier with that other than it being less expensive.
I think the 200-800 is very good for optimal light conditions. As soon as it gets darker, it becomes difficult to compensate even with a more sensitive sensor like the 24.6 Mp of the R6 or R8.
In any case I found an R5 reconditioned by Canon, with a brand new sensor and mechanical shutter.
As for the lens, I'm thinking of going with either the 100-500 L or possibly a third-party brand like the Sigma 60-600 sport which is an excellent lens.
In all reality the 100-500L is an even slower lens once you get the TC involved and is only slightly faster at the shorter focal lengths so unless you’re able to really get close you might well still be frustrated.

I’d also be careful with the Sigma 60-600 on the R5 as the R5 doesn’t always do so well with adapted third party lenses. I had issues with my 150-600C on the R5 that eventually caused me to replace it. I first went for the 100-500C but was struggling because I so frequently wanted more focal length. I would have been using the 1.4x all the time and honestly at that point I just decided that the money was better spent on a 500mm f/4 which does much better in the low-lighting. I used the 800mm f/11 for a while as my lightweight telephoto lens and really like it but when the RF 200-800 finally appeared it turned out to be the replacement for my Sigma 150-600 that I always wanted.

Here’s a shot I took from a recent trip to Brazil using the 200-800 on the R7 in fairly low light:

That's freaking gorgeous ? 😮🙂👍
this was in very dim lighting under the canopy


As was this


Obviously you need to have fairly good technique to get results like this but they certainly are possible.
Of course anyone who knows your photography, wouldn't expect anything else 🙂

One thing comes to mind though, I often "cheat" with low light shots, by warming up the color balance, to the point that nobody knows they were taken in low light. Not saying this is right or wrong, it's just something I've had a hard time breaking away from....
 
Phil Katch has performed a comparison of these three lenses (
). His finding is that the RF 800mm f11 is the sharpest of the group.

Granted, the zooms are much, much, more flexible in real world use.

My question is not whether one or the other is the most useful, but at the same reach, is the RF 800mm f11 really as sharp or sharper ? If so, then it's an amazing value.

Any personal experience to share regarding sharpness ?
No personal experience, as I opted to add 1.4x to my 100-500 rather than add the 800 f11 to my kit, so I only know half the story

But this comparison did help me to make my choice: https://www.the-digital-picture.com...ensComp=1513&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

From what it looks to me, the zoom combo is sharper. It also has more CA, but that's easily corrected

Having said that, these lenses are so good, I would choose based on usability. Afterall, it doesn't matter how sharp if you leave it at home
but that's comparing the lens at different apertures and different focal lengths
That's also what you get in real world when using them. We already know going into this discussion that the focal lengths will not match. In such cases, I often look at what IQ I can get wide open and then take it from there. You can always match the aperture in the tool, stopping down only improves the 100-500 marginally
but someone with both lens could compare the lens at the same aperture, same focal length and same camera (with extender on 100-500)
Well, with 1.4x, you can only get to 700mm. The 800 prime cannot zoom out to 700mm. Granted you can compare at 800mm using 2x extender, but people who use 2x usually want to shoot at 1000mm which the prime again cannot do

You can already compare at same aperture in the tool as I mentioned before

For me, it was simple. I was considering 1.4x, so the linked tool had all I needed to see.
For me it's also simple - if you need or want 800mm then 200-800 is good
Hello, I have the RF 200-800mm with my R8, and I don't like it. At 800 F9 it's smooth, I'm pretty sure the RF800 F11 is better.
I'm thinking of switching to 100-500 L with TC 1.4, from what we can see, it's the best combo in this price range.
Or I take an R5, which we find works well, with an RF 800 F11, I'm almost sure that it will do a better job than the R8 + 200-800 combo.
Either way you’re spending a lot more money. What issues are you having with your 200-800 and R8? I’ve been very pleased with the exact same setup. I actually find the AF of the R6 noticeably better than the R5 though you do get more MPs. The RF 800mm f/11 has very similar detail levels but with lower contrast so I’m not sure you’d be any happier with that other than it being less expensive.
I think the 200-800 is very good for optimal light conditions. As soon as it gets darker, it becomes difficult to compensate even with a more sensitive sensor like the 24.6 Mp of the R6 or R8.
In any case I found an R5 reconditioned by Canon, with a brand new sensor and mechanical shutter.
As for the lens, I'm thinking of going with either the 100-500 L or possibly a third-party brand like the Sigma 60-600 sport which is an excellent lens.
In all reality the 100-500L is an even slower lens once you get the TC involved and is only slightly faster at the shorter focal lengths so unless you’re able to really get close you might well still be frustrated.

I’d also be careful with the Sigma 60-600 on the R5 as the R5 doesn’t always do so well with adapted third party lenses. I had issues with my 150-600C on the R5 that eventually caused me to replace it. I first went for the 100-500C but was struggling because I so frequently wanted more focal length. I would have been using the 1.4x all the time and honestly at that point I just decided that the money was better spent on a 500mm f/4 which does much better in the low-lighting. I used the 800mm f/11 for a while as my lightweight telephoto lens and really like it but when the RF 200-800 finally appeared it turned out to be the replacement for my Sigma 150-600 that I always wanted.

Here’s a shot I took from a recent trip to Brazil using the 200-800 on the R7 in fairly low light:


this was in very dim lighting under the canopy


As was this


Obviously you need to have fairly good technique to get results like this but they certainly are possible.
Your incredible photos are magnificent, I will follow on flickr, I also have an account.
Yes, third-party lenses sometimes have problems with autofocus pumping, but no more than EF lenses. I already had a 60-600 on an R7 at the time, but with the R7 we had even more problems, as Duade Paton noted with the 150-600.
I just had the opportunity to buy an R5 with 100 shots for 2000, so I have to make some concessions. The advantage of the 60-600 is its incredible aperture of F4.5/6.3, which makes it very competitive, moreover it is a lens that always sells expensively compared to the new RFs.
How far were you from your subjects in these superb photos?
For sure the Sigma 60-600 is an excellent lens and if you’re not experiencing the AF issues then it’s absolutely a great option. I will say while I have experienced the AF pulsing with a couple of EF mount Sigma lenses on my R bodies, I haven’t experienced it with my Canon EF lenses (both versions of the EF 500mm f/4, all three of the IS versions of the 600mm f/4, both versions of the EF 400mm f/4 and both versions of the EF 100-400).

Distance varies but anything from about 10-30m is pretty typical.
Thanks for your reply,
Did you update the firmware of the Sigma 60-600mm?
 
I've both (200-800 & 800 F11), 800 F11 is sharp but 200-800 (at 800 F9) is the sharpest, like the MTF suggest
Hello,
It's not bad between 300 and 700mm at 800 it's soft, even at F9 or F10, at F11 there is already diffraction.
If you compare it to the 100-500L which is in the same price, the 100-500L is much sharper, and that's when you understand that the 200-800 is not so sharp.
 
I performed this test not too long after I got the 200-800 but must have deleted the files afterwards as I can’t locate them. For that reason I decided to do the test again and thankfully the results are consistent with my first run-through. These were performed on my R8 at a distance of about 30m. They are jpegs right out of the camera with no post processing other than cropping. They are actual pixels crops. Each crop is the best of 20 shots, lens mounted on a solid tripod from the same distance.

f99262a57d7d48f2aaf24d9b3788f3d7.jpg
Hello, your photos on Flickr are magnificent.
I have the same combo as you but I'm disappointed.
At what distance do you usually find small birds?
Even at a reasonable distance of 20m or 30m, if the light isn't perfect, it's a disaster, I lose too much detail.
I live in Switzerland, and I am close to forests where the light is not always great, and for this reason I hesitate to take the 100-500.
I do try my best to get as close as reasonably possible, 20-30m is typical. Nothing beats having good quality light and I do always try hard to get the best lighting I can. There are plenty of times I don’t bother to even take a shot because the subject is just too far away or it’s bright overhead sunlight where I know the pictures will look bad. A big problem I deal with is heat shimmer so sunny days are not my favorite unless it’s early morning or late evening. I have found that I can get good results in the jungle where there’s not much light as long as the subject is still. I was able to get plenty of nice Antpitta photos in Ecuador and Colombia in very low light though there are obviously limits. I typically take short bursts instead of a single shot. Say 6-9 photos in a quick burst when the light is low and usually get a couple of nice sharp ones. However, if I’m having an off day/not well rested it can be a real challenge to get sharp shots, I can definitely tell when my technique isn’t at its best.
Hello, it is clear that to make the most of such a large focal length, I would say from 500mm, on a sunny and hot day, you should not go taking pictures later than 9am and at the earliest 2 hours before sunset. And this even over short distances, such as small birds.
 
Any personal experience to share regarding sharpness ?

Thanks !
In my experience 800F11 is a good lens, and it looks the best on 24MP sensor (like on my R8). With 45MP sensor it does not look as crispy to my eyes (R5 before and R5M2) but it is still very good. My biggest problem with 800F11 is that busy backgrounds look like .... busy backgrounds. Here is my shot from yesterday with the new R5 Mark 2 with 800F11

53922006146_474815d997_h.jpg
Hello, HERE you show exactly what not to do in photography, have a super expensive camera with a low-end lens.
Besides, we can see the result, it's soft.
I'm not criticizing you, but we know that the quality of the photo is 90% the lens.
The same photos with a RF 100-500L would certainly have been better, and with 45Mp you have enough to crop.
For information, a 4K image is 9Mp...
 
I've both (200-800 & 800 F11), 800 F11 is sharp but 200-800 (at 800 F9) is the sharpest, like the MTF suggest
Hello,
It's not bad between 300 and 700mm at 800 it's soft, even at F9 or F10, at F11 there is already diffraction.
If you compare it to the 100-500L which is in the same price, the 100-500L is much sharper, and that's when you understand that the 200-800 is not so sharp.
The 200-800 isn’t as sharp at 800mm as the 100-500L is at 500mm but that only really matters if 500mm is enough focal length. If you are photographing a more distant subject where you can’t simply move closer and get the same composition at 500mm and 800mm I’ve found with the copies that I have available to me that the 200-800 performs better. Also, once you post process your images the differences really start to disappear. Here in the US the 100-500L is substantially more expensive, especially if you factor in the 1.4x.
 
Phil Katch has performed a comparison of these three lenses (
). His finding is that the RF 800mm f11 is the sharpest of the group.

Granted, the zooms are much, much, more flexible in real world use.

My question is not whether one or the other is the most useful, but at the same reach, is the RF 800mm f11 really as sharp or sharper ? If so, then it's an amazing value.

Any personal experience to share regarding sharpness ?
No personal experience, as I opted to add 1.4x to my 100-500 rather than add the 800 f11 to my kit, so I only know half the story

But this comparison did help me to make my choice: https://www.the-digital-picture.com...ensComp=1513&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

From what it looks to me, the zoom combo is sharper. It also has more CA, but that's easily corrected

Having said that, these lenses are so good, I would choose based on usability. Afterall, it doesn't matter how sharp if you leave it at home
but that's comparing the lens at different apertures and different focal lengths
That's also what you get in real world when using them. We already know going into this discussion that the focal lengths will not match. In such cases, I often look at what IQ I can get wide open and then take it from there. You can always match the aperture in the tool, stopping down only improves the 100-500 marginally
but someone with both lens could compare the lens at the same aperture, same focal length and same camera (with extender on 100-500)
Well, with 1.4x, you can only get to 700mm. The 800 prime cannot zoom out to 700mm. Granted you can compare at 800mm using 2x extender, but people who use 2x usually want to shoot at 1000mm which the prime again cannot do

You can already compare at same aperture in the tool as I mentioned before

For me, it was simple. I was considering 1.4x, so the linked tool had all I needed to see.
For me it's also simple - if you need or want 800mm then 200-800 is good
Hello, I have the RF 200-800mm with my R8, and I don't like it. At 800 F9 it's smooth, I'm pretty sure the RF800 F11 is better.
I'm thinking of switching to 100-500 L with TC 1.4, from what we can see, it's the best combo in this price range.
Or I take an R5, which we find works well, with an RF 800 F11, I'm almost sure that it will do a better job than the R8 + 200-800 combo.
Either way you’re spending a lot more money. What issues are you having with your 200-800 and R8? I’ve been very pleased with the exact same setup. I actually find the AF of the R6 noticeably better than the R5 though you do get more MPs. The RF 800mm f/11 has very similar detail levels but with lower contrast so I’m not sure you’d be any happier with that other than it being less expensive.
I think the 200-800 is very good for optimal light conditions. As soon as it gets darker, it becomes difficult to compensate even with a more sensitive sensor like the 24.6 Mp of the R6 or R8.
In any case I found an R5 reconditioned by Canon, with a brand new sensor and mechanical shutter.
As for the lens, I'm thinking of going with either the 100-500 L or possibly a third-party brand like the Sigma 60-600 sport which is an excellent lens.
In all reality the 100-500L is an even slower lens once you get the TC involved and is only slightly faster at the shorter focal lengths so unless you’re able to really get close you might well still be frustrated.

I’d also be careful with the Sigma 60-600 on the R5 as the R5 doesn’t always do so well with adapted third party lenses. I had issues with my 150-600C on the R5 that eventually caused me to replace it. I first went for the 100-500C but was struggling because I so frequently wanted more focal length. I would have been using the 1.4x all the time and honestly at that point I just decided that the money was better spent on a 500mm f/4 which does much better in the low-lighting. I used the 800mm f/11 for a while as my lightweight telephoto lens and really like it but when the RF 200-800 finally appeared it turned out to be the replacement for my Sigma 150-600 that I always wanted.

Here’s a shot I took from a recent trip to Brazil using the 200-800 on the R7 in fairly low light:


this was in very dim lighting under the canopy


As was this


Obviously you need to have fairly good technique to get results like this but they certainly are possible.
Your incredible photos are magnificent, I will follow on flickr, I also have an account.
Yes, third-party lenses sometimes have problems with autofocus pumping, but no more than EF lenses. I already had a 60-600 on an R7 at the time, but with the R7 we had even more problems, as Duade Paton noted with the 150-600.
I just had the opportunity to buy an R5 with 100 shots for 2000, so I have to make some concessions. The advantage of the 60-600 is its incredible aperture of F4.5/6.3, which makes it very competitive, moreover it is a lens that always sells expensively compared to the new RFs.
How far were you from your subjects in these superb photos?
For sure the Sigma 60-600 is an excellent lens and if you’re not experiencing the AF issues then it’s absolutely a great option. I will say while I have experienced the AF pulsing with a couple of EF mount Sigma lenses on my R bodies, I haven’t experienced it with my Canon EF lenses (both versions of the EF 500mm f/4, all three of the IS versions of the 600mm f/4, both versions of the EF 400mm f/4 and both versions of the EF 100-400).

Distance varies but anything from about 10-30m is pretty typical.
Thanks for your reply,
Did you update the firmware of the Sigma 60-600mm?
I no longer have the lens and haven’t had it for a few years now. I did always do my best to keep the firmware up to date. The lens I had was the 150-600C though not the 60-600 though I have used a friend’s copy of the 60-600 on several occasions and was impressed with it. I would just see if you can try it before you buy it or at least return it if you’re not happy with it. It’s a really nice lens when everything is working properly.
 
I've both (200-800 & 800 F11), 800 F11 is sharp but 200-800 (at 800 F9) is the sharpest, like the MTF suggest
Hello,
It's not bad between 300 and 700mm at 800 it's soft, even at F9 or F10, at F11 there is already diffraction.
If you compare it to the 100-500L which is in the same price, the 100-500L is much sharper, and that's when you understand that the 200-800 is not so sharp.
I have to disagree with you in some areas. Yes, at 700mm, the 100-500L with the 1.4x extender is sharper than the 200-800 at 700mm, but you're talking pixel peeping there. I have both the 100-500L and the 200-800 along with the 1.4x extender. Yes, the 100-500L is the better lens. It better be, being an L lens. But the 200-800 is NOT soft at 800mm. It is more than acceptably sharp, and is not soft. Also, I have both the R5 and R6 Mark II, and the 200-800, just like the 800 f11, performs better on the R6 Mark II than the R5. Both of those non L lenses seem to work better on the lower mp bodies.



Again, this is my personal experience having all of these lenses, and using them almost every day.

Would you consider these images soft? (I'm not trying to start an argument, just showing examples in my experience)



82110e9a3f844bcea74839e75ceb3477.jpg



7121cd25b7ee40798f0a85cdfdc8cb5e.jpg



0505eaea68e541b0b0787a879f0e68e3.jpg
 
I've both (200-800 & 800 F11), 800 F11 is sharp but 200-800 (at 800 F9) is the sharpest, like the MTF suggest
Hello,
It's not bad between 300 and 700mm at 800 it's soft, even at F9 or F10, at F11 there is already diffraction.
If you compare it to the 100-500L which is in the same price, the 100-500L is much sharper, and that's when you understand that the 200-800 is not so sharp.
I have to disagree with you in some areas. Yes, at 700mm, the 100-500L with the 1.4x extender is sharper than the 200-800 at 700mm, but you're talking pixel peeping there. I have both the 100-500L and the 200-800 along with the 1.4x extender. Yes, the 100-500L is the better lens. It better be, being an L lens. But the 200-800 is NOT soft at 800mm. It is more than acceptably sharp, and is not soft. Also, I have both the R5 and R6 Mark II, and the 200-800, just like the 800 f11, performs better on the R6 Mark II than the R5. Both of those non L lenses seem to work better on the lower mp bodies.
First off, very nice example photos. Not only are the two lenses mentioned “better” on the 24MP sensor than the 45MP sensor, so is the 100-500L and any other lens for that matter if you’re talking about perceived sharpness at the pixel level because you’re magnifying the image more. The 32MP sensor of the R7 is even more taxing yet we still have many very nice examples of “sharp” images with all of these lenses from the R7.

Again, this is my personal experience having all of these lenses, and using them almost every day.

Would you consider these images soft? (I'm not trying to start an argument, just showing examples in my experience)

82110e9a3f844bcea74839e75ceb3477.jpg

7121cd25b7ee40798f0a85cdfdc8cb5e.jpg

0505eaea68e541b0b0787a879f0e68e3.jpg


--
Some of my bird photos can be viewed here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gregsbirds/
 
First off, very nice example photos. Not only are the two lenses mentioned “better” on the 24MP sensor than the 45MP sensor, so is the 100-500L and any other lens for that matter if you’re talking about perceived sharpness at the pixel level because you’re magnifying the image more. The 32MP sensor of the R7 is even more taxing yet we still have many very nice examples of “sharp” images with all of these lenses from the R7.
I agree with this, with one caveat. For me, the 100-500L is better on my R5 than the R6 Mark II, and even the R7. I don't have the R7 anymore, but was taking a look at my photos with it again. Yes, it got amazing photos, but the camera just had some inconsistencies.

In regards to the R5 vs the R6 Mark II with the 100-500L, I was doing side by side testing and, at least to me, the R5 produced better, sharper images. Again, we're talking pixel peeping levels, but I could see a slight difference. With the 1.4x extender, it was a little bit closer, but still amazing images with either body.

I'm going back to Yellowstone in about 3 weeks, and my current plan is to have the 200-800 on the R6 Mark II and the 100-500L on the R5. I will probably put the 100-500 on the R6 in low light situations with a closer subject however as it's slightly better in low light. Either way, I'm hoping for some great photos.
 
First off, very nice example photos. Not only are the two lenses mentioned “better” on the 24MP sensor than the 45MP sensor, so is the 100-500L and any other lens for that matter if you’re talking about perceived sharpness at the pixel level because you’re magnifying the image more. The 32MP sensor of the R7 is even more taxing yet we still have many very nice examples of “sharp” images with all of these lenses from the R7.
I agree with this, with one caveat. For me, the 100-500L is better on my R5 than the R6 Mark II, and even the R7. I don't have the R7 anymore, but was taking a look at my photos with it again. Yes, it got amazing photos, but the camera just had some inconsistencies.

In regards to the R5 vs the R6 Mark II with the 100-500L, I was doing side by side testing and, at least to me, the R5 produced better, sharper images. Again, we're talking pixel peeping levels, but I could see a slight difference. With the 1.4x extender, it was a little bit closer, but still amazing images with either body.
So you are saying that you are seeing sharper results with both images blown up to 100%? So this is where the R5 image is larger on the screen than the R6 mk2 image. If so, that might suggest that there’s a stronger AA filter on the R6 mk2. It certainly doesn’t make sense to me if all else is equal.

I'm going back to Yellowstone in about 3 weeks, and my current plan is to have the 200-800 on the R6 Mark II and the 100-500L on the R5. I will probably put the 100-500 on the R6 in low light situations with a closer subject however as it's slightly better in low light. Either way, I'm hoping for some great photos.
 
First off, very nice example photos. Not only are the two lenses mentioned “better” on the 24MP sensor than the 45MP sensor, so is the 100-500L and any other lens for that matter if you’re talking about perceived sharpness at the pixel level because you’re magnifying the image more. The 32MP sensor of the R7 is even more taxing yet we still have many very nice examples of “sharp” images with all of these lenses from the R7.
I agree with this, with one caveat. For me, the 100-500L is better on my R5 than the R6 Mark II, and even the R7. I don't have the R7 anymore, but was taking a look at my photos with it again. Yes, it got amazing photos, but the camera just had some inconsistencies.

In regards to the R5 vs the R6 Mark II with the 100-500L, I was doing side by side testing and, at least to me, the R5 produced better, sharper images. Again, we're talking pixel peeping levels, but I could see a slight difference. With the 1.4x extender, it was a little bit closer, but still amazing images with either body.
So you are saying that you are seeing sharper results with both images blown up to 100%? So this is where the R5 image is larger on the screen than the R6 mk2 image. If so, that might suggest that there’s a stronger AA filter on the R6 mk2. It certainly doesn’t make sense to me if all else is equal.
I'm going back to Yellowstone in about 3 weeks, and my current plan is to have the 200-800 on the R6 Mark II and the 100-500L on the R5. I will probably put the 100-500 on the R6 in low light situations with a closer subject however as it's slightly better in low light. Either way, I'm hoping for some great photos.
Yes, that's what I'm saying. Again, it's not a big difference, but when I edit my RAW files, I always check them at 100%. To me, the R5 is producing slightly sharper images with my 100-500L than the R6 Mark II. It's really being nit-picky, but I can see it. And at the same time, the 200-800 looks better on the R6 Mark II.
 
First off, very nice example photos. Not only are the two lenses mentioned “better” on the 24MP sensor than the 45MP sensor, so is the 100-500L and any other lens for that matter if you’re talking about perceived sharpness at the pixel level because you’re magnifying the image more. The 32MP sensor of the R7 is even more taxing yet we still have many very nice examples of “sharp” images with all of these lenses from the R7.
I agree with this, with one caveat. For me, the 100-500L is better on my R5 than the R6 Mark II, and even the R7. I don't have the R7 anymore, but was taking a look at my photos with it again. Yes, it got amazing photos, but the camera just had some inconsistencies.

In regards to the R5 vs the R6 Mark II with the 100-500L, I was doing side by side testing and, at least to me, the R5 produced better, sharper images. Again, we're talking pixel peeping levels, but I could see a slight difference. With the 1.4x extender, it was a little bit closer, but still amazing images with either body.
So you are saying that you are seeing sharper results with both images blown up to 100%? So this is where the R5 image is larger on the screen than the R6 mk2 image. If so, that might suggest that there’s a stronger AA filter on the R6 mk2. It certainly doesn’t make sense to me if all else is equal.
I'm going back to Yellowstone in about 3 weeks, and my current plan is to have the 200-800 on the R6 Mark II and the 100-500L on the R5. I will probably put the 100-500 on the R6 in low light situations with a closer subject however as it's slightly better in low light. Either way, I'm hoping for some great photos.
Yes, that's what I'm saying. Again, it's not a big difference, but when I edit my RAW files, I always check them at 100%. To me, the R5 is producing slightly sharper images with my 100-500L than the R6 Mark II. It's really being nit-picky, but I can see it. And at the same time, the 200-800 looks better on the R6 Mark II.
I’m guessing that’s a difference with the AA filter. Do you have any examples handy? If not that’s cool, I know it’s work to produce them.
 
I've both (200-800 & 800 F11), 800 F11 is sharp but 200-800 (at 800 F9) is the sharpest, like the MTF suggest
Hello,
It's not bad between 300 and 700mm at 800 it's soft, even at F9 or F10, at F11 there is already diffraction.
If you compare it to the 100-500L which is in the same price, the 100-500L is much sharper, and that's when you understand that the 200-800 is not so sharp.
The 200-800 isn’t as sharp at 800mm as the 100-500L is at 500mm but that only really matters if 500mm is enough focal length. If you are photographing a more distant subject where you can’t simply move closer and get the same composition at 500mm and 800mm I’ve found with the copies that I have available to me that the 200-800 performs better. Also, once you post process your images the differences really start to disappear. Here in the US the 100-500L is substantially more expensive, especially if you factor in the 1.4x.
Hello, of course you should always be as close as possible to the subject. The recommended distances in wildlife photography with lenses with a focal length of 500mm are a maximum of 35m. With the 800mm not necessarily further.
The aperture of these lenses is still a problem, because you will have autofocus problems in low light, even with a 100-500L which has superb lenses.
The problem is that the choice of quality lenses at these prices is not very large.
The Sigma 60-600mm remains my favorite even using an EF/RF adapter ring, the optical quality is as good as the 100-500L it offers 100mm more and 40mm less, which can be very useful when traveling, and it is significantly cheaper, we can also find second-hand copies very little used at $1300.
 
I've both (200-800 & 800 F11), 800 F11 is sharp but 200-800 (at 800 F9) is the sharpest, like the MTF suggest
Hello,
It's not bad between 300 and 700mm at 800 it's soft, even at F9 or F10, at F11 there is already diffraction.
If you compare it to the 100-500L which is in the same price, the 100-500L is much sharper, and that's when you understand that the 200-800 is not so sharp.
I have to disagree with you in some areas. Yes, at 700mm, the 100-500L with the 1.4x extender is sharper than the 200-800 at 700mm, but you're talking pixel peeping there. I have both the 100-500L and the 200-800 along with the 1.4x extender. Yes, the 100-500L is the better lens. It better be, being an L lens. But the 200-800 is NOT soft at 800mm. It is more than acceptably sharp, and is not soft. Also, I have both the R5 and R6 Mark II, and the 200-800, just like the 800 f11, performs better on the R6 Mark II than the R5. Both of those non L lenses seem to work better on the lower mp bodies.

Again, this is my personal experience having all of these lenses, and using them almost every day.

Would you consider these images soft? (I'm not trying to start an argument, just showing examples in my experience)

82110e9a3f844bcea74839e75ceb3477.jpg

7121cd25b7ee40798f0a85cdfdc8cb5e.jpg

0505eaea68e541b0b0787a879f0e68e3.jpg
No, they are very beautiful, but as Jeanine from Pangolin wildlife photographie suggests, these lenses should not be used beyond 30, 35m distance, even for large subjects.
The question is simple, do you have better images with the 100-500L + R5 with crope or with the 200-800mm without crope?
Even with a Sigma 60-600mm I can have this kind of photos and I am significantly cheaper, and in addition I have a better aperture.
 
Any personal experience to share regarding sharpness ?

Thanks !
In my experience 800F11 is a good lens, and it looks the best on 24MP sensor (like on my R8). With 45MP sensor it does not look as crispy to my eyes (R5 before and R5M2) but it is still very good. My biggest problem with 800F11 is that busy backgrounds look like .... busy backgrounds. Here is my shot from yesterday with the new R5 Mark 2 with 800F11

53922006146_474815d997_h.jpg
Hello, HERE you show exactly what not to do in photography, have a super expensive camera with a low-end lens.
Besides, we can see the result, it's soft.
I'm not criticizing you, but we know that the quality of the photo is 90% the lens.
The same photos with a RF 100-500L would certainly have been better, and with 45Mp you have enough to crop.
For information, a 4K image is 9Mp...
I disagree. At least in this shot, that bird is so far away, yet so close to shore that you can’t get background blur no matter what… unless you use AI in post processing.



I bought the 600mm f/11 for $400, which was a great deal. But I think even the shorter 600 is quite a difficult lens to use, because how often is your subject so far away that it fills the frame at 600, yet so close that it’s not minuscule? This is why I prefer a telephoto zoom, but they’re more than 4x the cost of my 600mm
 
I've both (200-800 & 800 F11), 800 F11 is sharp but 200-800 (at 800 F9) is the sharpest, like the MTF suggest
Hello,
It's not bad between 300 and 700mm at 800 it's soft, even at F9 or F10, at F11 there is already diffraction.
If you compare it to the 100-500L which is in the same price, the 100-500L is much sharper, and that's when you understand that the 200-800 is not so sharp.
The 200-800 isn’t as sharp at 800mm as the 100-500L is at 500mm but that only really matters if 500mm is enough focal length. If you are photographing a more distant subject where you can’t simply move closer and get the same composition at 500mm and 800mm I’ve found with the copies that I have available to me that the 200-800 performs better. Also, once you post process your images the differences really start to disappear. Here in the US the 100-500L is substantially more expensive, especially if you factor in the 1.4x.
Hello, of course you should always be as close as possible to the subject. The recommended distances in wildlife photography with lenses with a focal length of 500mm are a maximum of 35m. With the 800mm not necessarily further.
The aperture of these lenses is still a problem, because you will have autofocus problems in low light,
This situation is actually quite different from how it was with SLRs. The AF is still quite effective with say the R7 and 800mm f/11 in lighting conditions that my old 7d mk2 would have struggled with even with my EF 500mm f/4.

even with a 100-500L which has superb lenses.
The problem is that the choice of quality lenses at these prices is not very large.
The Sigma 60-600mm remains my favorite even using an EF/RF adapter ring, the optical quality is as good as the 100-500L it offers 100mm more and 40mm less, which can be very useful when traveling, and it is significantly cheaper, we can also find second-hand copies very little used at $1300.
Yes the 60-600 for $1300 sounds like an attractive choice.
 
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Any personal experience to share regarding sharpness ?

Thanks !
In my experience 800F11 is a good lens, and it looks the best on 24MP sensor (like on my R8). With 45MP sensor it does not look as crispy to my eyes (R5 before and R5M2) but it is still very good. My biggest problem with 800F11 is that busy backgrounds look like .... busy backgrounds. Here is my shot from yesterday with the new R5 Mark 2 with 800F11

53922006146_474815d997_h.jpg
Hello, HERE you show exactly what not to do in photography, have a super expensive camera with a low-end lens.
Besides, we can see the result, it's soft.
I'm not criticizing you, but we know that the quality of the photo is 90% the lens.
The same photos with a RF 100-500L would certainly have been better, and with 45Mp you have enough to crop.
For information, a 4K image is 9Mp...
I disagree. At least in this shot, that bird is so far away, yet so close to shore that you can’t get background blur no matter what… unless you use AI in post processing.

I bought the 600mm f/11 for $400, which was a great deal. But I think even the shorter 600 is quite a difficult lens to use, because how often is your subject so far away that it fills the frame at 600, yet so close that it’s not minuscule? This is why I prefer a telephoto zoom, but they’re more than 4x the cost of my 600mm
I've only had it for 2 weeks but coming from the 800 f11 which I've taken some very *lucky* flight shots, I'm actually having a bbit of trouble with the 200-800 with something like a fast-flying raptor or. Part of it is the extra weight and being used to the not zooming on the 800 prime, which sometimes leads me to forget to zoom in or out when I could.

As for image quality, the 800 f11 seems sharper in some scenarios, especially with the 1.4 extender on both lenses. It's one reason I am still reluctant to sell it (aside from having a lighter lens to carry when I also need my heavy spotting scope).

Regarding AF focus and accuracy: The faster AF motor is great under ideal conditions but like the RF 100-400 has a tendency to inexplicably jump out of focus and sometimes pulse subtly. I'm wondering if the 100-500mm fares much better ands more "confident" due to having 2 USM motors. On the other hand the 800 f11's STM motor which moves leisurely enough you can often "rescue" it by letting go and re-focusing. In low light looking up some trees to find bird, I did notice the AF became quite sluggish for a USM motor, exhibiting a slow drag similar (but still much faster) than what the 800 f11 does.

One topic not often discussed is image stabilization panning. The 800 f11 panning detection is quite poor - with a swimming duck or slower-flying bird the horizontal axis doesn't get disabled and sometimes ruins my shots The 200-800 is much improved and seems more "loose" and reliable for birds in flight so I don't have to worry about flicking the switch off and on again..

However, for birds with more jerky walking motions, neither does very well , wondering if the "mode 3" of the 100-500mm would fare better. I took this Baird's Sandpiper a few days ago with the 1.4 extender and was a bit disappointed I was getting many soft shots despite having 1/1600s shutter speed. I know I could have gone higher, and this softness is not as visible after applying default DeepPRIME XD + sharpen settigns in DxO, but I'd prefer not to do that for every shot.

85aa8d3adb894f07bfa36641120dce51.jpg



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