Canon back button focus question

To focus on moving subjects using a camera’s back button you need to be in Servo (not One Shot) and continue to hold the button in whilst focusing on your subject. Shooting a burst will generally give better results since you can choose the best image from the burst.

It works exactly the same as shutter button half-press normally does.

One Shot mode and you focus when it's pressed, Servo mode and you focus as long as it's pressed. Assuming you have focus assigned to the AF-ON button, which is the default.
But for back button focus to work you have to remove focus from shutter button half press.

The advantages of back button focus are these:

You can follow something and keep on focusing prior to actually taking pictures. You can do that by half-pressing too, but in the heat of battle it's easier to keep a button fully pressed than in the middle.

If you get an obstruction between you and the subject, like somebody running behind som branches, you can just let go of AF-ON button but still keep on shooting, relying on that the previous focusing put your subject on focus and the branches in between will be smoothed out due to being outside the depth of field.

You have to continue to push in the back button as you are pushing the shutter release button.

To K.I.S.S this, if you want the camera to continue focusing, keep pressing the button.

It is definitely takes a little time to get used to, but once you do, I find it gives me more control. You can choose when and when not to focus, which is useful when you start pre-focusing and waiting for action at one point. If you can wrap your head around it, I feel like its a great tool. I find some people go back and forth between the methods, but I would suggest you get fully used to it first before bouncing. Kinda take a beating now, and find out if it is something you want use.

I think I understand most of the theory behind back button focus. But what I don't understand is that "you have to remove focus from shutter button half press". Are you sure that the "half press" is not automatically deactivated when you push the back button ?

To me it sounds strange if both are activated by default, but can not work together? If that is the case, wouldn't it be better with a toggle setting? (toggle between back focus and half press shutter button)

mitchj said:

...people say that the back button focus works great for sports. However, when I used it for the first time when shooting basketball on Monday, most of my photos were blurry and couldn’t focus in.

Click to expand...

BBF is just one way to detach auto focusing from the shutter button, nothing more. It means you can fire the shutter button without activating the AF system, if needed. It is no more magical than that with others want you to believe otherwise. However, I find it convenient and intuitive for shooting sports.

Share some of the shots you've tried to get, and maybe I can offer you some AF technique suggestions.

--
Ray

MyM6II said:

I think I understand most of the theory behind back button focus. But what I don't understand is that you have to "remove focus from shutter button half press". Are you sure that the "half press" is not automatically deactivated when you push the back button ?

To me it sounds strange if both are activated by default, but can not work together? If that is the case, wouldn't it be better with a toggle setting? (toggle between back focus and half press shutter button)

Click to expand...

apperson is correct.

By default, out-of-the-box, both the AF-ON and the Shutter button will activate focus, and neither button disables the other. Using BBF means you disable "Focus Start" from the Shutter button. What's different when you do that?

1) If you don't press the AF-ON button, of course you won't get any focus.

2) If you are using Servo (continuous) focus, you can release the AF-ON button and get focus lock. You cannot do that if focus is coupled to the Shutter button.

3) For One Shot focus, there isn't any meaningful difference. But most people who set up for BBF no longer use One Shot, because releasing the AF-ON button has the same effect as One Shot autofocus.

BBF was requested a long time ago by pro photographers. The purpose was to separate AF and metering. AF on the the BBF and metering on the shutter button.

As explained but others the process is to press and hold the BBF. This initiates AF and it continues AF and tracking. When you are ready to shoot press the shutter button all the way.

This is where it really helps. Press and hold the BBF. If you are burst shooting (or single shooing) you can press the shutter button for a sequence of shots, lift you finger, wait for the next series of shots you want to take and press it again. By keeping the BBF pressed all of the time AF is maintained.

Using the shutter button for both AF and Metering. If you lift your finger off the shutter more than half way AF stops. Some find that easy to do and others don't so the BBF helps to keep AF active all of the as you are tracking.

Try it again and see what happens. Also as stated there can be many other factors causing poor AF. New to Canon or a mirrorless body? ML bodies require an entirely different approach than DSLR's. As requested post some images.

--
Don't Look Up.

MyM6II said:

I think I understand most of the theory behind back button focus. But what I don't understand is that "you have to remove focus from shutter button half press". Are you sure that the "half press" is not automatically deactivated when you push the back button ?

To me it sounds strange if both are activated by default, but can not work together? If that is the case, wouldn't it be better with a toggle setting? (toggle between back focus and half press shutter button)

Click to expand...

Depending on what you shoot you don’t “have” to deactivate focus from the shutter. I often have the shutter with AF activated in One Shot with the AF-On button set to override with Servo and Subject Detection (on my R3). Of course, I can also move the focus area on to my subject with the AF-On / Smart Controller, which other R cameras can’t .

With MLCs there is no almost no real reason to use the common ‘focus and recompose’ technique anymore, as focus can be achieved anywhere in the frame. That was not the case with DSLRs.

cfieldgate said:

MyM6II said:

I think I understand most of the theory behind back button focus. But what I don't understand is that "you have to remove focus from shutter button half press". Are you sure that the "half press" is not automatically deactivated when you push the back button ?

To me it sounds strange if both are activated by default, but can not work together? If that is the case, wouldn't it be better with a toggle setting? (toggle between back focus and half press shutter button)

Click to expand...

Depending on what you shoot you don’t “have” to deactivate focus from the shutter. I often have the shutter with AF activated in One Shot with the AF-On button set to override with Servo and Subject Detection (on my R3). Of course, I can also move the focus area on to my subject with the AF-On / Smart Controller, which other R cameras can’t .

Click to expand...

There has never been any rule to use it at all. Whatever works for the user. I never used it with my 7D and never had an issue keeping the shutter half pressed. I decided to use it with my 7D2.

After getting my R5 I went back to the shutter which freed up a BBF for other applications. My current R62 and R7 are the same.

Even if I lift my finger pass half way using the shutter button the white AF Preview square takes over and it continues to AF.

cfieldgate said:

With MLCs there is no almost no real reason to use the common ‘focus and recompose’ technique anymore, as focus can be achieved anywhere in the frame. That was not the case with DSLRs.

Click to expand...

Suppose the continuous AF menu option is on and BBF is released just before taking the shot. Will the picture be in focus? The camera is in Servo AF.

Regards

Suman

Suman Vajjala said:

Suppose the continuous AF menu option is on and BBF is released just before taking the shot. Will the picture be in focus? The camera is in Servo AF.

Click to expand...

You are telling the camera to stop focusing. The picture will be in focus if the subject and the camera did not change their distance relationship after the focus stop, This is actually how you do One-Shot AF in the AI Servo mode.

Ray Chen said:

Suman Vajjala said:

Suppose the continuous AF menu option is on and BBF is released just before taking the shot. Will the picture be in focus? The camera is in Servo AF.

Click to expand...

You are telling the camera to stop focusing. The picture will be in focus if the subject and the camera did not change their distance relationship after the focus stop, This is actually how you do One-Shot AF in the AI Servo mode.

Click to expand...

I am not sure if you understood my question. Continuous AF option will be continually focusing even when the focusing button is not pressed. Then releasing the BBF button before taking a shot should result in a focused picture for moving subjects, shouldn't it? I think it would unless my understanding of continuous AF is wrong. I will experiment this with my RP later.

Regards

Suman

Suman Vajjala said:

Ray Chen said:

Suman Vajjala said:

Suppose the continuous AF menu option is on and BBF is released just before taking the shot. Will the picture be in focus? The camera is in Servo AF.

Click to expand...

You are telling the camera to stop focusing. The picture will be in focus if the subject and the camera did not change their distance relationship after the focus stop, This is actually how you do One-Shot AF in the AI Servo mode.

Click to expand...

I am not sure if you understood my question. Continuous AF option will be continually focusing even when the focusing button is not pressed. Then releasing the BBF button before taking a shot should result in a focused picture for moving subjects, shouldn't it? I think it would unless my understanding of continuous AF is wrong. I will experiment this with my RP later.

Regards

Suman

Click to expand...

If you are taking about the actual Continuous AF menu don’t use it. It is meant for video. When you finish shooting and move your arm down, somewhere else or to look at the LCD it will continue to AF. When you bring it up again the AF will be way off and sometimes you need to manually move the focus ring to get it close to the plane of your subject.

mitchj said:

I have been unable to find a video or articles that explains this further detail. When setting up the back button focus on the Canon camera, do I continue to hold the focus button down on the back of the camera as I’m taking pictures or do I release the focus button before taking pictures when using the back button focus?

From the reviews that I’ve seen before using the back button focus, people say that the back button focus works great for sports. However, when I used it for the first time when shooting basketball on Monday, most of my photos were blurry and couldn’t focus in. I was somewhat disappointed. Am I just not holding the button down when I’m supposed to be or am I holding the button down for too long or what am I doing? Can somebody please explain to me what I’m doing wrong or send me a link to an article, video or something?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

First, the best video I have seen on Back Button Focus with the R5 and how to set it up is by Jan Wegener: Jan also goes into why it works.

I particularly like the idea of setting up dual back button (explained by Jan), that gives you two focus options simultaneously (whatever plus eye detection).

It takes some time to build up the muscle memory to use it. You also have to be careful to go back to normal if you hand your camera to someone else. But once you learn it, you can't imagine doing without it.

I find BBF is most useful when action shooting. I get the camera focusing and tracking and then fire the shutter to take a burst of shots. In this way, the camera is already locked on before shooting.

I generally hold the focus button down starting before the shutter and keep it down until I am done shooting, typically when I take the camera away from my eye. You have to keep the AF button on while shooting, or the focusing will stop and the subject can move out of focus. You want the focusing to bracket the shooting. Treat it as "continuous AF" on demand. If you let go of the focus button, then you stop the focusing (useful for focus and recompose on still subjects, but no good for action shooting).

I would recommend "practice shooting," where you track any subject, hold AF button down and look for the focus to be locking and tracking, and never press the shutter. It will help you figure out how the focus system works. Then when you are really shooting, you add the shutter button.

Also, note that many of the problems people identify as "focus problems" turn out to be camera or subject motion. If you are shooting sports, you will typically want the shutter speed to be at 1/1000th or faster. Motion blur (camera or subject) will ruin more photos than high ISO. I would typically shoot in Manual with auto-ISO.

Today's AI Servo is so good you don't need "one-shot AF." With BBF, you get the "focus and recompose" option, tracking, eye detection (with dual back button focus) with just which button you press and when.

Karl_Guttag said:

mitchj said:

I have been unable to find a video or articles that explains this further detail. When setting up the back button focus on the Canon camera, do I continue to hold the focus button down on the back of the camera as I’m taking pictures or do I release the focus button before taking pictures when using the back button focus?

From the reviews that I’ve seen before using the back button focus, people say that the back button focus works great for sports. However, when I used it for the first time when shooting basketball on Monday, most of my photos were blurry and couldn’t focus in. I was somewhat disappointed. Am I just not holding the button down when I’m supposed to be or am I holding the button down for too long or what am I doing? Can somebody please explain to me what I’m doing wrong or send me a link to an article, video or something?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

First, the best video I have seen on Back Button Focus with the R5 and how to set it up is by Jan Wegener:

Jan also goes into why it works.

I particularly like the idea of setting up dual back button (explained by Jan), that gives you two focus options simultaneously (whatever plus eye detection).

It takes some time to build up the muscle memory to use it. You also have to be careful to go back to normal if you hand your camera to someone else. But once you learn it, you can't imagine doing without it.

I find BBF is most useful when action shooting. I get the camera focusing and tracking and then fire the shutter to take a burst of shots. In this way, the camera is already locked on before shooting.

I generally hold the focus button down starting before the shutter and keep it down until I am done shooting, typically when I take the camera away from my eye. You have to keep the AF button on while shooting, or the focusing will stop and the subject can move out of focus. You want the focusing to bracket the shooting. Treat it as "continuous AF" on demand. If you let go of the focus button, then you stop the focusing (useful for focus and recompose on still subjects, but no good for action shooting).

I would recommend "practice shooting," where you track any subject, hold AF button down and look for the focus to be locking and tracking, and never press the shutter. It will help you figure out how the focus system works. Then when you are really shooting, you add the shutter button.

Click to expand...

I have always gone by looking at the VF and when it looks in focus shoot. Trust the system. I learned that getting into birding in 2008. Trusting the system was the big one. Later you can work out the small things to make hone your skills.

One thing that really ticks me off is why does Canon not show EXIF for shutter modes in DPP? Knowing if you used ES or EFSC would be very helpful. I'm using exiftool which is very good but not work flow friendly. I have been looking for alternatives. So many out there and most are disappointing.

Karl_Guttag said:

Also, note that many of the problems people identify as "focus problems" turn out to be camera or subject motion. If you are shooting sports, you will typically want the shutter speed to be at 1/1000th or faster. Motion blur (camera or subject) will ruin more photos than high ISO. I would typically shoot in Manual with auto-ISO.

Today's AI Servo is so good you don't need "one-shot AF." With BBF, you get the "focus and recompose" option, tracking, eye detection (with dual back button focus) with just which button you press and when.

Click to expand...

Zeee said:

One thing that really ticks me off is why does Canon not show EXIF for shutter modes in DPP? Knowing if you used ES or EFSC would be very helpful. I'm using exiftool which is very good but not work flow friendly. I have been looking for alternatives. So many out there and most are disappointing.

Click to expand...

I don't understand why only ExifTool shows some of the EXIF values. This goes not only for DDP4 but for Adobe and all other tools.

Usually, I know the shutter mode as it is based on what I am shooting. The big value I would like to know is the stabilization mode of the lens (say mode 1, 2, or 3 on the RF100-500). Even ExifTool does not show this (it only tells if stabilization is on or off). I'm guessing it is not even recorded in the EXIF and maybe not output by the lens. When running experiments, I changed the f-number for mode 1 versus mode 2 (full stops for mode 2, up a 1/3rd for mode 1) so I would know later.

Karl_Guttag said:

Zeee said:

One thing that really ticks me off is why does Canon not show EXIF for shutter modes in DPP? Knowing if you used ES or EFSC would be very helpful. I'm using exiftool which is very good but not work flow friendly. I have been looking for alternatives. So many out there and most are disappointing.

Click to expand...

I don't understand why only ExifTool shows some of the EXIF values. This goes not only for DDP4 but for Adobe and all other tools.

Usually, I know the shutter mode as it is based on what I am shooting. The big value I would like to know is the stabilization mode of the lens (say mode 1, 2, or 3 on the RF100-500). Even ExifTool does not show this (it only tells if stabilization is on or off). I'm guessing it is not even recorded in the EXIF and maybe not output by the lens. When running experiments, I changed the f-number for mode 1 versus mode 2 (full stops for mode 2, up a 1/3rd for mode 1) so I would know later.

Click to expand...

Actually that IS mode would be very helpful as well, which I'ave mentioned before. Knowing the shutter mode would be nice as you experiment between ES and EFCS to see what works best for your own shooting styles.

Zeee said:

Karl_Guttag said:

Zeee said:

One thing that really ticks me off is why does Canon not show EXIF for shutter modes in DPP? Knowing if you used ES or EFSC would be very helpful. I'm using exiftool which is very good but not work flow friendly. I have been looking for alternatives. So many out there and most are disappointing.

Click to expand...

I don't understand why only ExifTool shows some of the EXIF values. This goes not only for DDP4 but for Adobe and all other tools.

Usually, I know the shutter mode as it is based on what I am shooting. The big value I would like to know is the stabilization mode of the lens (say mode 1, 2, or 3 on the RF100-500). Even ExifTool does not show this (it only tells if stabilization is on or off). I'm guessing it is not even recorded in the EXIF and maybe not output by the lens. When running experiments, I changed the f-number for mode 1 versus mode 2 (full stops for mode 2, up a 1/3rd for mode 1) so I would know later.

Click to expand...

Actually that IS mode would be very helpful as well, which I'ave mentioned before. Knowing the shutter mode would be nice as you experiment between ES and EFCS to see what works best for your own shooting styles.

Click to expand...

exiftool tells me the shutter mode but does not get IS right. I know I shot with IS mode 1 on my 100-500.



Here I used my RF 24-105 F4 which does not have Modes, 1, 2 or 3.





There has to be a better one out there.



--
Don't Look Up.