What flash should I be using for long Zoom range ie =300-800mm?

I enjoyed this short read Wildlife Fill Flash - Outdoor Photographer

Ive been wondering about the best type of flash for long distances/focal lengths.
Many people object to flash and wildlife on ethical grounds, I am not one of them. But, I only think it’s appropriate under certain conditions. Typically that it’s either completely dark or so marginal lighting that it is strictly necessary. And, that the animals aren’t hurt. Some examples include macro, insects etc. fill flashing a lion daytime makes no sense to me, I don’t think I would do it nighttime over a watering hole either. Increasing the range of flashes is typically done with funnels.
 
You want to use a powerful portable flash, typically the camera manufactures top of the line or one down to save funds. A flash extender will increase range and/or increase battery life. The Better Beamer was the first commercially available flash extender and they are very reasonably priced.

There are a lot of people that have have bad experience with incorrectly set up flash in there face and thus react negatively. Properly set up outdoor fill flash is barley noticeable. I used to use flash a lot for wildlife photography, much less today as the dynamic range of our cameras is so much better. Two advantages of flash is creating catch light in the eye and another is making the subject a touch brighter standing out better. There is also the obvious of filling in shadows.

Here are a few examples:

Fill:

p889009404-6.jpg


p2144665121-6.jpg


Catch light and fill:

p2415625940-6.jpg


Catch light and brighter subject:

p3309567206-6.jpg


p2753971824-6.jpg




p530795474-6.jpg


Morris
 
Many people object to flash and wildlife on ethical grounds, I am not one of them. But, I only think it’s appropriate under certain conditions.
And you would be right. Mr partner is a Fauna (and Flora) expert (multiple Doctorates). So I rely on her knowledge. The most important thing is knowing the Fauna, can Flash (of any kind) hurt them. There is a fair amount of minsinformation out there, people thinking they are doing good repeating something they read online as a fact, without fact checking (reminds me of another science recently lol).

Thanks for both the excellent replies so far, I am on point so far but wanted to be sure.
 
Last edited:
There is also the obvious of filling in shadows.
This is one of my main reasons :-). When we are in the bush and its dark, even with awesome DR, Flash of some sort is needed.

Which speedlite were you using for your pics and which extender? (Is the nissin strong enough for the job?)
That Owl is awesome, and a prime example of a flash on a subject simply by looking at the background light levels :-)

How are you finding the 70-300? Im surprised its not 4.5 star and only 4.

Also you have that lovely canon 220ml prime, I am considering using non X optics with adapters.... Where I live Canon is the most sold brand and availability used. Although I suppose I could order from overseas on Ebay?

Much appreciated.
 
Last edited:
There is also the obvious of filling in shadows.
This is one of my main reasons :-). When we are in the bush and its dark, even with awesome DR, Flash of some sort is needed.
Sometimes, if your subject is not in the open then the things surrounding your subject will also catch light from the flash.
Which speedlite were you using for your pics and which extender? (Is the nissin strong enough for the job?)
The pictures I posted span many years and various cameras and flashes. Flashes used include SB800, SB910, Metz 50, Godox V860II-N. The Nissin flash works quite well. I have not been happy with Godox on Fuji. Too many firmware bugs. I've used just about every flash extender made, they all have trade offs. The Better Beamer is my favorite due to portability. The downside of it is it will burn marks on your flash when it aligns with the sun.
That Owl is awesome, and a prime example of a flash on a subject simply by looking at the background light levels :-)
Thank you, I love photographing snowy owls.
How are you finding the 70-300? Im surprised its not 4.5 star and only 4.
The FX 70-300 is a nice light mid telephoto zoom. It is sharp enough, focuses at medium speed and tracks nicely. It is fine for portraits with a TC yet tracking with a TC is not reliable.
Also you have that lovely canon 220ml prime, I am considering using non X optics with adapters....
You will louse WR with the currently available adapters. It's still a great way to go. The 200mm L has wonderful bokeh and sharpness. I also use a Nikon 500mm PF and it's superb. They still command a high price used. Most people that own one will not let them go.
Where I live Canon is the most sold brand and availability used. Although I suppose I could order from overseas on Ebay?
Much appreciated.
Purchasing used is a great way to save funds. I purchase from used vendors and used from camera stores. It costs a bit more yet returns are easy when there are problems and sometimes something bad slips through there testing. I received a lens with intermittent focus issues. It was very confusing so I decided to return it and no questions asked.

Morris
 
I just shoot with a bridge camera as I just like keeping a record of what I see, and when I see subjects at night, lighting is a challenge. I also don't enjoy carrying too much stuff so I try to limit my carry on equipement to the minimum.

With that context, for night photography I use a bluetooth controlled headlamp that I place where I expect the action to happen, and fade it up slowly to avoid scaring the subject.

Once the scene/subject is lit, I shoot with my bridge camera from some distance i.e. 10m away as I need to keep connectivity with the light source.

Not pro by any means but it does for me

96dd2f351b624a4bba63576f151eafb5.jpg
 
Last edited:
I enjoyed this short read Wildlife Fill Flash - Outdoor Photographer

Ive been wondering about the best type of flash for long distances/focal lengths.
Here is a great article about using flash . Not sure why they removed the "About the Author" part. Had to use the Wayback Machine to pull that up. Below is the about the author part that is no longer on the live site. I include this because it really helps to know the credentials of the authors.

"Dennis Olivero obtained his DVM degree from the University of Minnesota where he also did an internship in small animal medicine and surgery. A comparative ophthalmology residency was completed at North Carolina State University, followed by a post doctorate NIH fellowship at the University of Minnesota College of Medicine. Dennis Olivero is a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists and has served as staff veterinary ophthalmologist at two veterinary colleges and two private specialty practices. He has research publications in both the veterinary and human medical field.

Donald Cohen obtained his doctorate in medicine at State University of New York in Buffalo and went on to a flexible internship at Mercy Hospital in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. He completed his ophthalmology specialty training at Pittsburgh Eye and Ear and has been practicing ophthalmology for twenty years in his clinic in Mooresville, North Carolina.

Dr. Olivero's interest in photography dates back to a trip to Africa in 1978; to see his images please visit his website at www.northernlightnaturephotography.com. Dr. Cohen's passion for photography goes back as far as thirty years; to see his images please visit his website at www.dlcphotography.net."
 
Many people object to flash and wildlife on ethical grounds, I am not one of them.
Bob's comment about ethical flash use was interesting to me, since I've had a lot of use of flash at my bird feeder outside the kitchen. The birds never even notice the flash - regardless of power setting!

A prime example is the photo below. Shot with bright sunlit lawn in the background, I lowered the ISO and raised the f stop to kill all light in the photo. Then I used two speedlights, one left and one right, to just light the bird. Bird after bird can into the feeder, over several days of shooting, and not one ever reacted to the strobes flashing at them!

4aafa6b126454c73bd6c7e484d8e11c7.jpg
 
It is totally possible to use flash with the subject not even noticing, but it is subject specific, and he risk is that an incorrectly set up could have catastrophic consequences to the subject, specially birds.

Temporaily blindness (even for a few seconds) and getting spoke, hence sudden and unexpected take off, is a very dangerous combination for them.

In some reserves, there is a blanket "no flash", as there is no other way to police it. If you do try, be very aware of the subject reaction to ensure it does not really notice it...comes down to the first rule of wildlife photography, that the wellbeing of the wildlife must take priority.
 
Ethically, people just need to know the biology of the subject they are shooting, Im lucky I have a Dr in Biology on hand, but no reason people cant learn about a subject and what may or may not hurt the animal.

What I like about using a speedlite is bringing the shadows and highlights out of a subject when we are in the bush, without looking like its flashed, the minimum that gets the job done.


Im just going through the process of choosing a budget platform and ecoology system. I was going with the brilliant Fuji XS!0, great IBIS and fairly decent hybrid focus. But a used Sony A7 III has me wondering if I will get more detail from the FF......
 
Look at the lenses you will pair with the body. The entire kit matters.
Yep, that is why I mentioned the lens ecology being my focus, always is for all of us isnt it? Glass first, body second, one would hope thats the generalized way.

It is my one concern with Fuji, but with Sigma and Tamron producing X lenses now I think if anything the future looks even better. Currently what you get with Fuji is a smaller ecology and some of the lenses are old, but glass doesnt age as such, perhaps technology a little, but in general X lenses and specifically XF upward tend to be very good quality lenses, thats how I see Fuji.

If I could get a used X-h2 Im pretty tempted by it as well, I am 95% photography though.

This is a good review of the Sony A7 III in 2022 from a prior Fuji users perspective.

Essentially its not perfect, but no camera is, but it is still a very good camera in 2022 in comparison with the competition. Its not the latest model but you still get a snappy FF shooter with lots of DR , with lots of high end features, a massive lens ecology to choose from (although when I left a6000 this was one reason why, but since then they have produced some good affordable telephotos).

I think I would be happy with either a Fuji or a FF Sony, they Fuji gives me the advantage of 1.5x crop factor, the FF gives me a bigger sensor to put light onto.

Sony a7 III Review in 2022 (UPDATED) |Pro Choice (shotkit.com)
 
Last edited:
Look at the lenses you will pair with the body. The entire kit matters.
Yep, that is why I mentioned the lens ecology being my focus, always is for all of us isnt it? Glass first, body second, one would hope thats the generalized way.
It is my one concern with Fuji, but with Sigma and Tamron producing X lenses now I think if anything the future looks even better. Currently what you get with Fuji is a smaller ecology and some of the lenses are old, but glass doesnt age as such, perhaps technology a little, but in general X lenses and specifically XF upward tend to be very good quality lenses, thats how I see Fuji.

If I could get a used X-h2 Im pretty tempted by it as well, I am 95% photography though.

This is a good review of the Sony A7 III in 2022 from a prior Fuji users perspective.

Essentially its not perfect, but no camera is, but it is still a very good camera in 2022 in comparison with the competition. Its not the latest model but you still get a snappy FF shooter with lots of DR , with lots of high end features, a massive lens ecology to choose from (although when I left a6000 this was one reason why, but since then they have produced some good affordable telephotos).

I think I would be happy with either a Fuji or a FF Sony, they Fuji gives me the advantage of 1.5x crop factor, the FF gives me a bigger sensor to put light onto.

Sony a7 III Review in 2022 (UPDATED) |Pro Choice (shotkit.com)
The Fringer adapters provide access to the entire line of Nikon F mount and Canon EF lenses including third party. Check the list for ones that work:

Canon:


Nikon:


Morris
 
The Fringer adapters provide access to the entire line of Nikon F mount and Canon EF lenses including third party. Check the list for ones that work:
How well do they work, what do you lose with them? There is usually a trade off. But I do like the idea of them because some brands just have classic unbeatable lenses :-)
 
The Fringer adapters provide access to the entire line of Nikon F mount and Canon EF lenses including third party. Check the list for ones that work:
How well do they work, what do you lose with them? There is usually a trade off. But I do like the idea of them because some brands just have classic unbeatable lenses :-)
They work great making the third party lenses feel like Fuji glass. AF is superb allowing me to do birds in flight. The downside is that they do not have rubber O Rings to provide a weather seal. With the lack of weather seal, I use a rain cover when necessary.

Here are a few flight shots taken with my Nikon 500 PF on Fuji X-H2s



ae20556540114e0c974bef3e00c83ab1.jpg



c1ce65700aeb4cc0a39be5d57470bae7.jpg



e66a45aa4be6487192c376400aeac932.jpg

Morris
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top