Fujinon GF 35-70mm f/4.5-5.6 WR: Your opinion

Sorry I meant field curvature of the 32-64mm. My copy of the 32-64mm seemed quite sharp end to end, sad that I sold it to fund the 45-100mm. To me they are almost the same in everything. Maybe some copies of the 32-64mm had issues, just like a lot of folks had issues with earlier 35-70mm.
Field curvature is unlikely to be caused by sample variation.
 
Thanks to everyone who is sharing images and comments.
Another one taken near 50mm at f11, 1600 ISO, 1/60th.

It's sharp, you can see the captain's beard. This one went through Topaz Denoise.

View attachment 7a3125ddf9584b81bf35a7ef127f194e.jpg
GFX 50S, GF35-70mm, 48mm f11, 1/60th, 1600 ISO, Denoise.
I don't shoot high ISOs but something is off to me, maybe it is the denoise messing up or how it was uploaded with compression etc. Look at the faces of the people, I see quite a bit of strange artifacts.
I don't shoot high ISOs either unless I am forced to or if I mess up with the settings. Beyond base ISOs there is a loss in colours and sharpness. But you are right, this shot's treatment was overdone.

Here is the RAW file or if you prefer, a HQ JPG of it for file size sake.

View attachment bb3e854df8874b8689e8256ee7a94348.jpg
LR export with no edits other than the specific lens correction included in the RAW file.
 
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So is it more a lens design thing? I have seen sample shots where you or someone had posted about the grass not being sharp but I can't imagine that one would see the effect in the shots like the other poster kristian1 had posted. Maybe I am wrong with my assumptions.
 
So is it more a lens design thing? I have seen sample shots where you or someone had posted about the grass not being sharp but I can't imagine that one would see the effect in the shots like the other poster kristian1 had posted. Maybe I am wrong with my assumptions.
I have also read that it takes some stops to have the lens consistently sharp and I'm going to test this and the curvature of field on a grassy field. Thanks.
 
I use mine typically at f8 to f13. I'd guess that one of the F4 zooms would show slightly better IQ but at those apertures likely not that much. Perhaps the corners would be a little better. My copy cost me 500 bucks as the part a deal with the camera so, for me, I doubt the diminishing returns of replacing this with an f4 zoom costing 3-4 times that is worth it. I'd go for primes in other focal lengths instead, like a 30mm or an 80mm. Those would allow top IQ at wider apertures which the kit lens can't really manage. I'd say that's its drawback. If I was shooting for demanding high-end clients with knowledgeable picture editors then, yes, I very probably would go for something better but I'm not. My copy is not good at near minimum focus distance at the long end. That's definitely another drawback but then I rarely use it for that.

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  1. petreluk wrote:
I use mine typically at f8 to f13. I'd guess that one of the F4 zooms would show slightly better IQ but at those apertures likely not that much. Perhaps the corners would be a little better. My copy cost me 500 bucks as the part a deal with the camera so, for me, I doubt the diminishing returns of replacing this with an f4 zoom costing 3-4 times that is worth it. I'd go for primes in other focal lengths instead, like a 30mm or an 80mm. Those would allow top IQ at wider apertures which the kit lens can't really manage. I'd say that's its drawback. If I was shooting for demanding high-end clients with knowledgeable picture editors then, yes, I very probably would go for something better but I'm not. My copy is not good at near minimum focus distance at the long end. That's definitely another drawback but then I rarely use it for that.
 
I use mine typically at f8 to f13. I'd guess that one of the F4 zooms would show slightly better IQ but at those apertures likely not that much. Perhaps the corners would be a little better. My copy cost me 500 bucks as the part a deal with the camera so, for me, I doubt the diminishing returns of replacing this with an f4 zoom costing 3-4 times that is worth it. I'd go for primes in other focal lengths instead, like a 30mm or an 80mm. Those would allow top IQ at wider apertures which the kit lens can't really manage. I'd say that's its drawback. If I was shooting for demanding high-end clients with knowledgeable picture editors then, yes, I very probably would go for something better but I'm not. My copy is not good at near minimum focus distance at the long end.
That is a known issue with the lens.
That's definitely another drawback but then I rarely use it for that.
 
So is it more a lens design thing? I have seen sample shots where you or someone had posted about the grass not being sharp but I can't imagine that one would see the effect in the shots like the other poster kristian1 had posted. Maybe I am wrong with my assumptions.
Well, since I was puzzled by your remark, I took the thing out this afternoon and went after blades of grass for the truth. So much that I'm feeling somewhat like a fed up cow tonight, ;-) but the samples are THERE .

Please let me know how you interpret them. Personally I didn't see anything weird, except for corner softness at wide apertures, but maybe I am indulging.
 
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