Hypercentric Lens

Interesting Mike. The first image looks great.

For some situations (simple symmetrical objects) the end result can be similar to that obtained by using a flat mirror behind the objects.

I imagine you can also use a large diameter simple zoom lens and an aperture in a fixed position behind the zoom to vary between endocentric to hypercentric by zooming.
Some good ideas, however how does one photograph the sides of an object from front on by using a single flat mirror? Look at the dice example in the Edmund Optics technical information tab
Sure, not possible. That's why I wrote simple symmetrical object. Something like a flat horizontal surface for example. I mostly thought about the closer object having a smaller image than the further one.
Wouldn't you need a magnifying mirror?
 
Interesting Mike. The first image looks great.

For some situations (simple symmetrical objects) the end result can be similar to that obtained by using a flat mirror behind the objects.

I imagine you can also use a large diameter simple zoom lens and an aperture in a fixed position behind the zoom to vary between endocentric to hypercentric by zooming.
Some good ideas, however how does one photograph the sides of an object from front on by using a single flat mirror? Look at the dice example in the Edmund Optics technical information tab
Sure, not possible. That's why I wrote simple symmetrical object. Something like a flat horizontal surface for example. I mostly thought about the closer object having a smaller image than the further one.
Wouldn't you need a magnifying mirror?
Not necessarily, a flat mirror is enough. The closest object to the camera is the farthest from the mirror, meaning its virtual image in the mirror has the longest pathway to the lens and its image is the smallest as seen by the camera.

11a286026170469192e8978cb364cd00.jpg
 

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Interesting Mike. The first image looks great.

For some situations (simple symmetrical objects) the end result can be similar to that obtained by using a flat mirror behind the objects.

I imagine you can also use a large diameter simple zoom lens and an aperture in a fixed position behind the zoom to vary between endocentric to hypercentric by zooming.
Some good ideas, however how does one photograph the sides of an object from front on by using a single flat mirror? Look at the dice example in the Edmund Optics technical information tab
Sure, not possible. That's why I wrote simple symmetrical object. Something like a flat horizontal surface for example. I mostly thought about the closer object having a smaller image than the further one.
Wouldn't you need a magnifying mirror?
Not necessarily, a flat mirror is enough. The closest object to the camera is the farthest from the mirror, meaning its virtual image in the mirror has the longest pathway to the lens and its image is the smallest as seen by the camera.
Correct me if I'm wrong but this is showing pretty normal projection, (endocentric or hypocentric) where the more distance things are smaller than the closer things. In hypercentric projection the further object is larger and the closer object is smaller.


--
Mike from Canada
"I am not a great photographer! God is a great creator! All I do is capture His creation with the tools He has provided me."
'I like to think so far outside the box that it would require a telephoto lens just to see the box!' ~ 'My Quote :)'
 
Interesting Mike. The first image looks great.

For some situations (simple symmetrical objects) the end result can be similar to that obtained by using a flat mirror behind the objects.

I imagine you can also use a large diameter simple zoom lens and an aperture in a fixed position behind the zoom to vary between endocentric to hypercentric by zooming.
Some good ideas, however how does one photograph the sides of an object from front on by using a single flat mirror? Look at the dice example in the Edmund Optics technical information tab
Sure, not possible. That's why I wrote simple symmetrical object. Something like a flat horizontal surface for example. I mostly thought about the closer object having a smaller image than the further one.
Wouldn't you need a magnifying mirror?
Not necessarily, a flat mirror is enough. The closest object to the camera is the farthest from the mirror, meaning its virtual image in the mirror has the longest pathway to the lens and its image is the smallest as seen by the camera.
Correct me if I'm wrong but this is showing pretty normal projection, (endocentric or hypocentric) where the more distance things are smaller than the closer things. In hypercentric projection the further object is larger and the closer object is smaller.
Exactly, the mirror gives nothing special. For some objects you can get a slightly similar effect (of size ratios) to using a hypercentric lens by photographing the images in the mirror. Not the same perspective, order etc.

You can also use the hypercentric lens to reverse the progression from small to large, so that the smallest image is for the object closest to the lens and the largest image is for the virtual image of the same object reflected in the mirror.
 
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Interesting Mike. The first image looks great.

For some situations (simple symmetrical objects) the end result can be similar to that obtained by using a flat mirror behind the objects.

I imagine you can also use a large diameter simple zoom lens and an aperture in a fixed position behind the zoom to vary between endocentric to hypercentric by zooming.
Some good ideas, however how does one photograph the sides of an object from front on by using a single flat mirror? Look at the dice example in the Edmund Optics technical information tab
Sure, not possible. That's why I wrote simple symmetrical object. Something like a flat horizontal surface for example. I mostly thought about the closer object having a smaller image than the further one.
Wouldn't you need a magnifying mirror?
Not necessarily, a flat mirror is enough. The closest object to the camera is the farthest from the mirror, meaning its virtual image in the mirror has the longest pathway to the lens and its image is the smallest as seen by the camera.
Correct me if I'm wrong but this is showing pretty normal projection, (endocentric or hypocentric) where the more distance things are smaller than the closer things. In hypercentric projection the further object is larger and the closer object is smaller.
Exactly, the mirror gives nothing special. For some objects you can get a slightly similar effect (of size ratios) to using a hypercentric lens by photographing the images in the mirror. Not the same perspective, order etc.
With a flat mirror you'll only get endocentric with an endocentric (normal/typical) lens, you just can't get the effect of hypercentric without the lens or mirror being designed for that effect.
You can also use the hypercentric lens to reverse the progression from small to large, so that the smallest image is for the object closest to the lens and the largest image is for the virtual image of the same object reflected in the mirror.
Or just ignore the mirror altogether and just use the lens with 2 identical objects, one further away than the other
 
Well I've tried many combinations, from the extension tube route to the front mounted achromat route and a combination of the 2. I tried on everything from 15mm to 200mm. I just can't reproduce the dice effect completely, however I did manage to get part way there with one setup. Otherwise I can produce the effect already shown, sometimes better, sometimes worse. I guess what I'm saying is that I'm giving up until such time that a new idea pops into my head. Not sure I'll be posting any more photos, it just means I need more toys to make this idea more effective.
I just made my own hypercentric lens

What is a hypercentric lens? Look at the technical information tab here https://www.edmundoptics.ca/f/hypercentric-lenses/14571/

Also watch this video to understand it better

I need to work towards improving it but it's not half bad for a first go...

So why did I make it? Because I could! And to have fun experimenting!

These are all M3x8 bolts ... Exactly the same size, Note how the bolt in the background projects bigger and the bolt in the foreground projects smaller.
Hypercentric http://www.michaelfastphotography.com/galleries/k-1ii/misc/_K2P25646a.jpg
More-hypercentric (same scene) http://www.michaelfastphotography.com/galleries/k-1ii/misc/_K2P25648a.jpg

I took a gutted (no optics) M42 lens that has been sitting on my shelf for years, used it as the rear aperture by reversing it on the K-mount, then used my own idea for a M42-M42 female to female adapter, on to that I put a helicoid extension tube then an SMC Takumar 50mm F1.4 simple but effective. I believe I can improve upon it with some modifications.
 
Well I've tried many combinations, from the extension tube route to the front mounted achromat route and a combination of the 2. I tried on everything from 15mm to 200mm. I just can't reproduce the dice effect completely, however I did manage to get part way there with one setup. Otherwise I can produce the effect already shown, sometimes better, sometimes worse. I guess what I'm saying is that I'm giving up until such time that a new idea pops into my head. Not sure I'll be posting any more photos, it just means I need more toys to make this idea more effective.
I just made my own hypercentric lens

What is a hypercentric lens? Look at the technical information tab here https://www.edmundoptics.ca/f/hypercentric-lenses/14571/

Also watch this video to understand it better

I need to work towards improving it but it's not half bad for a first go...

So why did I make it? Because I could! And to have fun experimenting!

These are all M3x8 bolts ... Exactly the same size, Note how the bolt in the background projects bigger and the bolt in the foreground projects smaller.
Hypercentric http://www.michaelfastphotography.com/galleries/k-1ii/misc/_K2P25646a.jpg
More-hypercentric (same scene) http://www.michaelfastphotography.com/galleries/k-1ii/misc/_K2P25648a.jpg

I took a gutted (no optics) M42 lens that has been sitting on my shelf for years, used it as the rear aperture by reversing it on the K-mount, then used my own idea for a M42-M42 female to female adapter, on to that I put a helicoid extension tube then an SMC Takumar 50mm F1.4 simple but effective. I believe I can improve upon it with some modifications.
That's too bad. I suppose it's not surprising considering the size of the lens used in that video. Is there a way to do it in software with multiple photos around a nodal point?
 
Well I've tried many combinations, from the extension tube route to the front mounted achromat route and a combination of the 2. I tried on everything from 15mm to 200mm. I just can't reproduce the dice effect completely, however I did manage to get part way there with one setup. Otherwise I can produce the effect already shown, sometimes better, sometimes worse. I guess what I'm saying is that I'm giving up until such time that a new idea pops into my head. Not sure I'll be posting any more photos, it just means I need more toys to make this idea more effective.
I just made my own hypercentric lens

What is a hypercentric lens? Look at the technical information tab here https://www.edmundoptics.ca/f/hypercentric-lenses/14571/

Also watch this video to understand it better

I need to work towards improving it but it's not half bad for a first go...

So why did I make it? Because I could! And to have fun experimenting!

These are all M3x8 bolts ... Exactly the same size, Note how the bolt in the background projects bigger and the bolt in the foreground projects smaller.
Hypercentric http://www.michaelfastphotography.com/galleries/k-1ii/misc/_K2P25646a.jpg
More-hypercentric (same scene) http://www.michaelfastphotography.com/galleries/k-1ii/misc/_K2P25648a.jpg

I took a gutted (no optics) M42 lens that has been sitting on my shelf for years, used it as the rear aperture by reversing it on the K-mount, then used my own idea for a M42-M42 female to female adapter, on to that I put a helicoid extension tube then an SMC Takumar 50mm F1.4 simple but effective. I believe I can improve upon it with some modifications.
That's too bad. I suppose it's not surprising considering the size of the lens used in that video. Is there a way to do it in software with multiple photos around a nodal point?
You could adjust the projection in software if you had distance data, you could also do stuff like this in software if you had a series of photos from perhaps a 180 degree semi-circle around the object, neither is ideal but its doable. Not a total loss, just maybe revisit it in the future
 

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