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Try to do an 'upside down' camera shot as well. If the softness remains in the same place, it is a lens property, likely field curvature, or misalignment with the focal plane, although the second lens (24-105) seems much lens sensitive.
100% agree - the testing is not the problem here. The lens is.People are still going to criticize your test methodology, because this is DPReview. But you've now done two comparisons, one shooting the way you typically shoot, and another shooting the way others argued was the proper way to compare the lenses. In both scenarios, the 16-35 GM failed to perform to your standards.
That makes this an easy call -- send it back.
Just keep in mind that it could be the result of sample variation, so you may want to exchange it for another copy and give it another try. Maybe you'll be happy, and, if not, then at least you'll know this wasn't the lens for you.
But he still did it wrong ... He's focusing in the center, and then looking at the corners where objects are not on the same plane of focus.People are still going to criticize your test methodology, because this is DPReview. But you've now done two comparisons, one shooting the way you typically shoot, and another shooting the way others argued was the proper way to compare the lenses.
In both scenarios, the 16-35 GM failed to perform to your standards.
That makes this an easy call -- send it back.
Just keep in mind that it could be the result of sample variation, so you may want to exchange it for another copy and give it another try. Maybe you'll be happy, and, if not, then at least you'll know this wasn't the lens for you.
That is a correct test procedure - if you test for field curvature.But he still did it wrong ... He's focusing in the center, and then looking at the corners where objects are not on the same plane of focus.People are still going to criticize your test methodology, because this is DPReview. But you've now done two comparisons, one shooting the way you typically shoot, and another shooting the way others argued was the proper way to compare the lenses.
Seems like the test procedure used has some slack. But one lens has softer corners than the other one. Within spec or not - who knows?Unfortunately both tests are flawed so we can't really tell if there's anything wrong with the lens.
In both scenarios, the 16-35 GM failed to perform to your standards.
That makes this an easy call -- send it back.
Just keep in mind that it could be the result of sample variation, so you may want to exchange it for another copy and give it another try. Maybe you'll be happy, and, if not, then at least you'll know this wasn't the lens for you.
I have the impression there is a fair bit of copy variation on the 16-35 GM. Look at the Optical Limits reviews of the Sony and the Tamron 17-28/2.8.That is a correct test procedure - if you test for field curvature.But he still did it wrong ... He's focusing in the center, and then looking at the corners where objects are not on the same plane of focus.People are still going to criticize your test methodology, because this is DPReview. But you've now done two comparisons, one shooting the way you typically shoot, and another shooting the way others argued was the proper way to compare the lenses.
Seems like the test procedure used has some slack. But one lens has softer corners than the other one. Within spec or not - who knows?Unfortunately both tests are flawed so we can't really tell if there's anything wrong with the lens.
In both scenarios, the 16-35 GM failed to perform to your standards.
That makes this an easy call -- send it back.
Just keep in mind that it could be the result of sample variation, so you may want to exchange it for another copy and give it another try. Maybe you'll be happy, and, if not, then at least you'll know this wasn't the lens for you.
As I said I wouldn't consider the test flawed. Sure it's not a brick wall, but it's a realistic in-situation use case. And moreover it was shot on a tripod not handheld which pleads even less in favor of the 16-35 IMO.But he still did it wrong ... He's focusing in the center, and then looking at the corners where objects are not on the same plane of focus.People are still going to criticize your test methodology, because this is DPReview. But you've now done two comparisons, one shooting the way you typically shoot, and another shooting the way others argued was the proper way to compare the lenses.
Unfortunately both tests are flawed so we can't really tell if there's anything wrong with the lens.
In both scenarios, the 16-35 GM failed to perform to your standards.
That makes this an easy call -- send it back.
Just keep in mind that it could be the result of sample variation, so you may want to exchange it for another copy and give it another try. Maybe you'll be happy, and, if not, then at least you'll know this wasn't the lens for you.
Exactly! Especially since the OP was perfectly able to achieve sharp results with his other lens! One can criticise testing procedures forever, but if it doesn't work in practice in the field, that's a pretty solid result.As I said I wouldn't consider the test flawed. Sure it's not a brick wall, but it's a realistic in-situation use case. And moreover it was shot on a tripod not handheld which pleads even less in favor of the 16-35 IMO.But he still did it wrong ... He's focusing in the center, and then looking at the corners where objects are not on the same plane of focus.People are still going to criticize your test methodology, because this is DPReview. But you've now done two comparisons, one shooting the way you typically shoot, and another shooting the way others argued was the proper way to compare the lenses.
Unfortunately both tests are flawed so we can't really tell if there's anything wrong with the lens.
In both scenarios, the 16-35 GM failed to perform to your standards.
That makes this an easy call -- send it back.
Just keep in mind that it could be the result of sample variation, so you may want to exchange it for another copy and give it another try. Maybe you'll be happy, and, if not, then at least you'll know this wasn't the lens for you.
But ok or not in the methodology, it's THE use case for OP. That is reflecting his day to day workflow and expectation. So for him, this lens is clearly not the tool to go.
As others suggested you might have a lemon copy. My copy seems fine including at 35mm side. I did such test a while ago.
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63901212
Nevertheless I keep any eye on the new 16-35 PZ. I read it's sharper at 35mm side but mostly it's much lighter. I usually carry two camera bodies and multiple lenses into trips so total size/weight reduction is appealing. In addition I also now have FE 14mm/1.8 for UWA and fast aperture (so useful indoor hand-held) which is sharp even at f1.8 wide open, therefore the f2.8 from a such zoom might not that important to me anymore.
As said my copy seems fine. Here are four full-size samples @35mm. Most of them not taken at f2.8 wide open purposely as I use it mainly in landscape/cityscape type, usually stop down.I guess I must be lucky as well. Very happy with my 16-35 and I certainly don’t want to change it for any other lens any time soon. I don’t find it too heavy.As others suggested you might have a lemon copy. My copy seems fine including at 35mm side. I did such test a while ago.
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63901212
Nevertheless I keep any eye on the new 16-35 PZ. I read it's sharper at 35mm side but mostly it's much lighter. I usually carry two camera bodies and multiple lenses into trips so total size/weight reduction is appealing. In addition I also now have FE 14mm/1.8 for UWA and fast aperture (so useful indoor hand-held) which is sharp even at f1.8 wide open, therefore the f2.8 from a such zoom might not that important to me anymore.




Yep, send it back. It's not perfectly methodology, but so what? If a lens isn't giving you the results you need or expect - send it back.People are still going to criticize your test methodology, because this is DPReview. But you've now done two comparisons, one shooting the way you typically shoot, and another shooting the way others argued was the proper way to compare the lenses. In both scenarios, the 16-35 GM failed to perform to your standards.
That makes this an easy call -- send it back.
Just keep in mind that it could be the result of sample variation, so you may want to exchange it for another copy and give it another try. Maybe you'll be happy, and, if not, then at least you'll know this wasn't the lens for you.
The Tamron 20mm F2.8 is also a great option that can be picked up even cheaper. I went with the Tammy over the Sammy to reuse filters.Edge softness is part of the reason why, to complement my 24-105/4 at the wide end, I chose a Samyang 18/2.8 instead of a UWA zoom. I didn't really need the zoom function - I just wanted a substantially wider FL than my 24-105 provided, and 18mm was the right FL for me. The 18/2.8 is much smaller and lighter, and way cheaper ($300), while still being pretty sharp even at the edges when stopped down to f5.6, which is how I'd use it in any case for DoF reasons.
For folks who don't shoot a lot of UWA but sometimes want a UWA option, the Samyang 18/2.8 makes a good option that doesn't max out the credit card.