Kyan Sitthar
Member
Hi Elliott,
Ha ha yeah, I bought it recently. I really want to receive it so I will put my email address in a private message of yours.
Best,
Kyan
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Sony RX100
- Thread starter Kyan Sitthar
- Start date
Ha ha yeah, I bought it recently. I really want to receive it so I will put my email address in a private message of yours.
Best,
Kyan
I know there are some who don't agree with everything Elliott says about these cameras, but I really admire the guy for the effort he puts in trying to help people and the amount of time he must spend writing instructions/suggestions for using these cameras.Wow Elliott, what a nice review to read. It gives so much knowledge regarding the RX series. I can see for practical reasons, I should start choosing from m3. However, I have bought an m1 recently so I will use it to learn the base model and will save up for m3. Yeah, as you say I found many RX100s with terrifying look LCDs haha I dare not to offer them as I thought they may stop working after a while. I am really happy to hear those suggestions from a real rx100 user like you and I believe many newcomers to the RX100 series will benefit from this. Thank you so much for your sharing and enjoy your Sunday evening
He deserves a lot of credit, and he's a huge asset to this forum.
tbcass
Forum Pro
Every person in the world will have some people who will disagree with them.
Rambow
Senior Member
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For a used M1 is an average price.
You can get brand new gray market ones for around 130 euros, from private vendors.
Don't bother paying more for the M2, especially since they have a problem with the lcd ribbon, they tend to fail after some years. The IQ is identical.
Don't worry about the M1 being too old, i use both my M1 and my M7 and i actually feel better using the old camera, it's simpler and smaller, easier to use.
My old rx100 m1 is actually having some issues at the moment, so soon i will have to get another one. Good thing i have the M7 as a spare, no?
You can get brand new gray market ones for around 130 euros, from private vendors.
Don't bother paying more for the M2, especially since they have a problem with the lcd ribbon, they tend to fail after some years. The IQ is identical.
Don't worry about the M1 being too old, i use both my M1 and my M7 and i actually feel better using the old camera, it's simpler and smaller, easier to use.
My old rx100 m1 is actually having some issues at the moment, so soon i will have to get another one. Good thing i have the M7 as a spare, no?
Kyan Sitthar
Member
Thanks, Rambow, this is my first time exploring RX100 cameras so I don't know their price. It is good to hear that we can still buy a brand new M1 as if I had a chance I will buy that haha. M2 in my local market is like 100 ~ 110 euros more than my recently purchase M1 (70) so I just get M1. Btw, I think it's definitely a good idea to buy an M1 as a spare due to its price and sensor size haha. Nice day Rambow!For a used M1 is an average price.
You can get brand new gray market ones for around 130 euros, from private vendors.
Don't bother paying more for the M2, especially since they have a problem with the lcd ribbon, they tend to fail after some years. The IQ is identical.
Don't worry about the M1 being too old, i use both my M1 and my M7 and i actually feel better using the old camera, it's simpler and smaller, easier to use.
My old rx100 m1 is actually having some issues at the moment, so soon i will have to get another one. Good thing i have the M7 as a spare, no?
Digital Nigel
Forum Pro
Oddly enough, the camera has had a quiet update, and models shipped in the last 2-3 years have a few additional features, borrowed from a later model. It appears that some original 2012 design components ran out, and Sony switched to using newer ones. But there was no change in model number or appearance. I think the only way you can identify those upgraded models is from the firmware number (they have a newer firmware number than is available to download for the older models).Thanks, Rambow, this is my first time exploring RX100 cameras so I don't know their price. It is good to hear that we can still buy a brand new M1 as if I had a chance I will buy that haha.For a used M1 is an average price.
You can get brand new gray market ones for around 130 euros, from private vendors.
Don't bother paying more for the M2, especially since they have a problem with the lcd ribbon, they tend to fail after some years. The IQ is identical.
Don't worry about the M1 being too old, i use both my M1 and my M7 and i actually feel better using the old camera, it's simpler and smaller, easier to use.
My old rx100 m1 is actually having some issues at the moment, so soon i will have to get another one. Good thing i have the M7 as a spare, no?
That's a fact.Every person in the world will have some people who will disagree with them.
tbcass
Forum Pro
The problem comes when those who disagree are 100% sure they are right and anybody who disagrees with them is wrong. ;-)That's a fact.Every person in the world will have some people who will disagree with them.
Kyan Sitthar
Member
Finally, I ended up getting both Rx100 m1 and m2 as soon after I bought m1, I found one m2 in good deal. I had to pay m1 for 70 euros and m2 for 40 euros. I believe if I find difficult to deal with the stationary lcd on m1, I will shoot with m2 more often.
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Noel
CaliforniaDave
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Disagreeing on opinions about camera needs and wants is OK, so long as both parties understand that they are stating their own opinion. It becomes problematic when one party states their opinion as if it is or should be everyone’s opinion. It becomes a very serious problem when the parties can not agree on basic facts.The problem comes when those who disagree are 100% sure they are right and anybody who disagrees with them is wrong. ;-)That's a fact.Every person in the world will have some people who will disagree with them.
tbcass
Forum Pro
Then we agree 100% because you are paraphrasing what I said.Disagreeing on opinions about camera needs and wants is OK, so long as both parties understand that they are stating their own opinion. It becomes problematic when one party states their opinion as if it is or should be everyone’s opinion. It becomes a very serious problem when the parties can not agree on basic facts.The problem comes when those who disagree are 100% sure they are right and anybody who disagrees with them is wrong. ;-)That's a fact.Every person in the world will have some people who will disagree with them.
CaliforniaDave
Senior Member
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I disagree. ;-)Then we agree 100% because you are paraphrasing what I said.Disagreeing on opinions about camera needs and wants is OK, so long as both parties understand that they are stating their own opinion. It becomes problematic when one party states their opinion as if it is or should be everyone’s opinion. It becomes a very serious problem when the parties can not agree on basic facts.The problem comes when those who disagree are 100% sure they are right and anybody who disagrees with them is wrong. ;-)That's a fact.Every person in the world will have some people who will disagree with them.
Hi Elliott, does the mk3 also tend to default to 1/30s? I have a mk1 and have been caught out a few times with the 1/30s when taking snaps of moving subjects. Also how is the light metering on the mk3 and later? My mk1 has a tendency to underexpose, sometimes by almost a stop.
elliottnewcomb
Forum Pro
arrow,
m1 shutter speed, use S mode!
m1. send me a private message with your email address, I'll send you my 14 page document, there may be something in it that you find helpful. m1 lousy IS started as a problem (for me and many), however I am ever thankful I was forced to learn and use S mode, and learn a few other tricks that work together.
Once you get a knack for 'just fast enough', then any situation with any degree of motion is no longer iffy (within limits of course). And, you can capture a degree of motion blur purposely. I change speed shot to shot, just as I used to change flash strength shot to shot with my big R1 which had no IS. You forget these rx100's have a flash.
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m3 shutter speed:
Yes, the m3 similarly defaults to 1/30th, however, due to the cameras darn good Image Stabilization it is not a problem for shaky me, and was never an issue like the m1,2 were for me and many.
m3,4,5 IS is good enough that I can use any mode, and get blur free handheld stills. that means I/you can use any mode successfully (using Auto ISO).
two factors:
1. improved IS
2. shooting position, pop-up evf, arms pulled in is steadier.
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m3 exposure.
my problem is the opposite: that the rx100's, outdoors, tend to over-expose, too bright/lousy sky detail. I suggest you take a few shots that are problematic, then do a full reset, take same shots, see what you get, then let us know, post some images.
AREA SIZE: the primary reason to use P mode is to reduce the AREA SIZE for both focus and metering, so the camera 'sees' only that smaller area when searching for objects (your subject) for distance and the 'sees' the lighting of that smaller primary subject area.
I purposely shoot under-exposed, -.3, -.7, to capture nice detail and color of skies, detail in bright areas, planning on lifting shadows in post. Always crop first, so the software then makes further adjustments based on what you are keeping, and it is working on less pixels.
It is amazing how much detail lurks in shadow areas. You cannot cut highlights much, especially skies, without getting clearly visible artifacts.
even better outdoors: use a CPL, then you see and capture nice skies/color/bright areas and see the details in the shadow areas better when making composition decisions. They work best when the Sun is off to the side, you rotate them, watching the bright areas, stop, shot. Bill taught me this trick: If hard to see a CPL's effect because of too much foliage ..., turn back 180 degrees, aim at sky, rotate, see 'best', turn back, shoot.
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m6,7: 1/20th
even better, amazing IS, allows me to shoot handheld stills 1/20th. Like prior models, it defaults to 1/30th, however, in not great light, to prevent higher ISO, already knowing/using S mode, you simply set 1/20th for handheld stills.
combine that improved IS (Jpeg and/or RAW) with the processor's ability to use more aggressive in-camera Noise Reduction with zero visible artifacts (Jpegs only) is what makes this 'slow f2.8 lens' perform like a brighter lens, and the surprizingly clean higher ISO results.
I was shocked to find many of these shots were ISO 6400
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Thank you Elliott. If I see a good deal on a mk3 I may trade in or sell my mk1. I prefer cameras with a viewfinder these days. I'll PM you now.
elliottnewcomb
Forum Pro
this comparison popped up on a quickie search
https://photographylife.com/sony-rx100-series-comparison
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there are 3 versions of the very clever pop-up evf which maintains it's midget size.
m3: 1.44 mp manual extension
m4,5,5a: 2.3 mp manual extension
m6,7: 2.3 mp auto extension
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they all have a diopter lever, you set it once for your vision. adjust for the information shown in the lcd screen (not the objects beyond).
It has two physical movements,
1. pops-up vertically automatically, spring loaded. (not yet focused).
2. extends out of it's shell horizontally (now focused).
2a. m3,4,5,5a (first version), you manually do step 2, grasp it's sides and pull it out toward you. In use, if you press against it (with eyeglasses ...) it will recede a bit and go out of focus. you need to push it in first, then push down to close it.
2b. m6, m7: part 2 is automatic (it is spring loaded self-extending). it also has resistance, thus inadvertently pushing it 'in' out of focus is not an issue. just push it down to close it.
I had m1 with flat fixed lcd, no evf. having the evf is a wonderful improvement.
Now I have m3 and m6, both are minor miracles. I am not aware of the improved resolution of the m6 evf while shooting, but it's automatic extension is a wonderful thing. Because there is no eyecup, in bright light, I have to shield the top and left side with my left hand to block side light.
The horribly expensive hotshoe EVF with eyecup for the RX1r is the real deal (except it falls out of the shoe too easily).
rx100m2 has a hotshoe, you can use an EVF or optical viewfinder with an eyecup with it, however that takes you back to a camera that starts at 28mm, thus you lose the advantage of both more width and more height.
........................................
caution buying used m6:
early m6's, the diopter lever moved inadvertently erery time it popped up, thus it popped up more and more out of focus, you would need to re-adjust the diopter to use it, possibly every time you used it. or, wedge something in there to keep it from moving. Sony replaced a lot, fixed the design, problem disappeared, EXCEPT, if buying a used one, make sure it is not an early problematic one.
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Elliott
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Falkenvlc
New member
elliottnewcomb
Forum Pro
1st post, welcome to the forum.
Send me a private message with your email address and I will send it.
It only applies to the rx100m1 and m2. It was written in 2012 before any manuals or books existed; both of which are available for many years now.
Gary Freidman and Alexander White both issue books about each model.
Other later models, lots of other info, scan the titles of the threads here
Falkenvlc
New member
Thanks a lot for the info Elliott!! Unfortunately I don´t know why I can´t send you private messages. Can you please send me one and I send you my email?
Thanks in advance
elliottnewcomb
Forum Pro
sent you PM with my email address
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