S
Simon Harris
Guest
Nancy
There are a couple of ways of going about this:
1) Rely on the in-camera WB (using a white card).
2) Rely on Photoshop or similar as a post process.
3) Utilise an FL- filter from the likes of B+W etc to correct the cast - you would need to ascertain the colour temp of the lights in situ (rated in Kelvin) to assess which rating of FL- filter to use (normally a number after the dash).
Or mixtures of all three!
Having done this, of course you will find that whichever 'lighting setup' you decide upon will have to be taken into account.
Flash based would be best - taking an average class size here in the UK as 25, I would suggest 2 heads to start, one as the main (or 'key') light, one as a fill-in (perhaps at 25% output), with a guide number of at least 45. Softening the main light with a softbox would be good. Most modern two-head packages are fairly portable; everything folds away. If you are in the UK Jessops own-brand flash units aren't at all bad on a budget, otherwise Elinchrom would be my recommendation.
This would also in most cases negate the need for the FL filter.
Tungsten lighting is another, cheaper option. But you would then be adding another non-daylight rated colur temp source - with the flourescents as well it now gets tricky!
There are also daylight rated flourescent lighting heads - constant light source, run cool etc...but can be expensive. DIY would be an option with a qualified electrician on hand - the ballasts are also hard to get hold of.
So, no quick fix. But then, that's photography - regardless of the medium!
No doubt you will get many contrdictionary inputs - but that's the strength of these forums. Between all of us there is a huge fund of knowledge and experience.
Hope this helped a bit!
(Er.....classroom sized photos??! Wot kinda printer YOU gonna be using? LOL)
Regards
Simon
There are a couple of ways of going about this:
1) Rely on the in-camera WB (using a white card).
2) Rely on Photoshop or similar as a post process.
3) Utilise an FL- filter from the likes of B+W etc to correct the cast - you would need to ascertain the colour temp of the lights in situ (rated in Kelvin) to assess which rating of FL- filter to use (normally a number after the dash).
Or mixtures of all three!
Having done this, of course you will find that whichever 'lighting setup' you decide upon will have to be taken into account.
Flash based would be best - taking an average class size here in the UK as 25, I would suggest 2 heads to start, one as the main (or 'key') light, one as a fill-in (perhaps at 25% output), with a guide number of at least 45. Softening the main light with a softbox would be good. Most modern two-head packages are fairly portable; everything folds away. If you are in the UK Jessops own-brand flash units aren't at all bad on a budget, otherwise Elinchrom would be my recommendation.
This would also in most cases negate the need for the FL filter.
Tungsten lighting is another, cheaper option. But you would then be adding another non-daylight rated colur temp source - with the flourescents as well it now gets tricky!
There are also daylight rated flourescent lighting heads - constant light source, run cool etc...but can be expensive. DIY would be an option with a qualified electrician on hand - the ballasts are also hard to get hold of.
So, no quick fix. But then, that's photography - regardless of the medium!
No doubt you will get many contrdictionary inputs - but that's the strength of these forums. Between all of us there is a huge fund of knowledge and experience.
Hope this helped a bit!
(Er.....classroom sized photos??! Wot kinda printer YOU gonna be using? LOL)
Regards
Simon
