The issue is not whether you can track it but whether you get sharp results. The bird needs to stay in roughly the same place on the sensor and OS should not stop the relative angular movement. This gets more relevant, the faster the bird and the closer you get.
Right, sorry I mean OSS axis - you don't get better yaw and pitch stabilisation as a result of combined IBIS + OSS. IBIS yaw and pitch stabilisation gets turned off if the lens has OSS because lens stabilisation is typically better than IBIS (in those axis) and for whatever reasons Sony don't try and combined the two.
Because much BIF shooting is done at relatively high ISOs and not at base ISO, you'll get much lower noise exposing for the bird (using ETTR for dark birds) in-camera. I agree that shooting RAW is preferred to get the maximum DR and EV flexibility. Any auto-exposure method will yield inferior results if the bird is moving between variable backgrounds.
As I said, I experienced no change in my "keeper rate", or, as you say, "sharp results." Maybe the lower pixel-density of my a9 accounts for something that might be seen on an a7RIV, for example.
At high shutter speed you won't see much change since the OSS or IBIS will have little effect so it doesn't really matter what mode you use. Where you will see a change is in the EVF as the OSS tries to figure out what to do.
I've never observed any of the issues that you discuss. I shoot birds at high shutter speeds, so that might explain why I don't see any of what you seem to suffer.Are we both talking about an a9 with a large GM lens?
Who said anything about being a professional photographer? If you already a so-called "professional" photographer why are they watching this video in the first place? Besides Mark Smith's video might be lengthy it's more than a tutorial as it's a showcase that it does work or might be interesting to a person who feels he or she has time and is not always in a rush to get from point A to point B. I watched Mark Galer's video and Mark Smith's video on the Sony A9 when it comes wildlife/action photography. They take two different approaches to it, but they end up with basically the same results. Just because a "professional" photographer who has the fundamentals down pat doesn't mean a beginner doesn't .
I resent being labelled a 'so-called' professional photographer and fyi I have not watched the video nor will I. Most of the so called instructional videos nowadays have too much waffle and some are produced by amateurs who have now idea how to produce effective instructional videos. Maybe beginners such as yourself find these useful, 60 minutes is still a ridiculous length of time for a simple subject. The written word gets to the point quicker. The reason I use this forum? I have recently bought a 200-600 and have experimented with different settings for BIF, I was interested in seeing if others use the same.
I never said I was a 'Nikon' professional! I previously held associateships in the BMPA, MPA and IMBI and ran a successful business for 30 years before I retired. Yes I am also still learning and have just bought a 200-600 so was interested too read about settings others use to compare with mine. There is no need for a 60 minute video for something so simple.
I think that without watching the video, it might be a bit premature to say that. There are a lot of subtleties that need to be appreciated to get the best out of the camera and lens.
Can't agree more on that. Staying in essentially the same place w/o massive weather changes (from full sunny to overcast for example) the needed exposure parameters remain essentially constant - even if the metering may suggest otherwise. The challenge is getting the exposure right on the bird - and not on the surroundings which might lead to a too short exposure in the case of a bright sky background or a too long exposure in the case of a darker shrub background.
There you go, you've explained what is needed in 2 paragraphs!!! No video needed.
www.gec.photography
We work a lot alike, but, even with a perched bird, I'll work with higher SS, like 1/1000 and, generally higher. With the latest improvements in noise reduction, I've grown almost oblivious to the ISO. I start at ISO 800 and f/8 and go up from there, except for a white bird in bright sun, where I'll pull ISO down to deal with highlights.
No, not when you know the video will do a far better job of explaining not just the answer to your immediate question but also to the many other questions you will likely have in the future.
Yes, the hanging on the side method of Mark Galer allows steady vertical panning and using the horizontal panning of the ballhead base allows for horizontal panning. The only issue is that your tripod must be on a level footing, so that vertical is really vertical and not slanted. I use this when I am with a small ballhead which does not have vertical panning but all directional. But I also have a ballhead with both vertical and horizontal panning, then I don't need to do what Mark Galer is doing.
60 mins is a ridiculous amount of time for a tuition video, no-one is going to watch non stop and remember everything! A beginner would probably give up confused. I am sure the guy is very good but if he had any sense he would make a series of short specific 10min videos.
Maybe, maybe not. I would never just do what one person suggests. If I need help about something new I would post a question and evaluate responses from individuals then experiment to see what suits me.
No sorry.
