Hi Albert! I did a lot of contrast shooting today I even lowered the amount of light on the flash with that adjustment in there. Thank you for the advice.
I think that most of this can also be done post-processing right? because I feel like if I had taken the time to change the settings I would not have got that shot.
however I discovered an interesting thing today if I use vivid and low-key I basically get the exact colors I've been looking for. also I went all the way up to Ev plus one on the paint brushes I posted here for Bruce. Probably should have put them here actually. It worked out very well.
I still haven't managed to even get to zebras but I'm looking forward to it. I heard something about you can preset them.

P.338 of FZ300 pdf manual

P.196 of FZ300 pdf manual
You can set up zebra 1 and zebra 2, leave it there (as long as not set zebra = OFF), zebra would be always on and will appear covering section(s) which theatrically reaches the set white saturation level.
As I only have interest on highlight overblown, I set mine to 105% (zebra 1 is enough to me, I do not touch zebra 2).
Zebra, if set at 100% or higher, will tell us highlight overblown is happening at the setting we used, where is the overblown area and how large the overblown area would be. It is a very convenience and fast visual guide allowing us to push for the optimal exposure setting. Real time histogram just let us know statistically would overblown (or shadow clipping) be happened. It can never tell us how big is it, and where are those overblown.
However, I wish you might still remember my old writings on the exposure behavior of Panasonic. On my M43 ILCs, while zebra (at 105%) first appears, it does not really mean white saturation (+1/3ev room for G85 & GX7 and +2/3ev room for GX85, hence, you must test it for your FZ300).
While I know my G85 has 1/3ev room on zebra at 105%, it becomes very easy to me. Use A, set the required aperture, look at the live view in evf. Do EC (+ev or -ev) until zebra first appeared, then add +1/3ev more. 99% of time I can get an image at optimal exposure (highest exposure I can get just before overblown happening). A matter of 1 or 2 clicks on the EC dial for <1 second.
Only when under certain special condition, like the kids on the swing in quite serious backlit that the high DR of the scene require me to overblow the highlight to exchange for a brighter shadow (for SOOC jpg), then I shall dial in more +ve on EC until I am happy with the balance. Then, I might take slightly longer time on the resting and decision...
Thanks and have a great evening or day depending on what time it is there
BTW, in order to ensure a faster start up on every power up time, might consider to reset EC to 0 on every power off. This will ensure we shall never overlook on having adjusted EC last shooting session, that might bring forward to next shot.

P.339 of FZ300 pdf manual
After practicing, you might be surprised that the so said "careful setting" indeed is a matter of second(s) to set up the parameters and take a shot. The faster you can make a decision on what to take and what to give up, the shorter time you would need for it. During the learning stage, you might find a lot to consider, a lot of work vs P&S on full auto, indeed when you have built up your experience and more well acquaintance with your camera, shooting is not difficult at all.
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Albert
** Please feel free to download the original image I posted here and edit it as you like

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