Too much noise complaints with MFT images

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I keep hearing people having issues with noise in their images. I also see people post images with what I consider too much noise at base ISO.

I never have this issue. I use a GX80 but I don't think that the camera model matters that much unless it was the older 12mp models.

Anyhow, below are two photos. They are from the DPR 150-400mm lens review. I noticed the usual "pile on" about the image noise from other format users in the comments. I tend to agree, there is too much noise. The first image is cropped from their JPEG. The 2nd image, I downloaded the raw and opened it using RawTherapee, a free but powerful editor. The point I'm making here is that I did NOT use any noise reduction. It was turned off, yet the noise grain is finer than in their image despite using sharpening. I processed the image to be similar but there's minor differences. There may be better ways to process, certainly worse ways, but for me, it has got to be budget minded.

c52c212fa6e54bc487bfae7bf89e6474.jpg



df1ba78d17d34d7ca27628260ac95b6a.jpg
 
I keep hearing people having issues with noise in their images. I also see people post images with what I consider too much noise at base ISO.

I never have this issue. I use a GX80 but I don't think that the camera model matters that much unless it was the older 12mp models.

Anyhow, below are two photos. They are from the DPR 150-400mm lens review. I noticed the usual "pile on" about the image noise from other format users in the comments. I tend to agree, there is too much noise. The first image is cropped from their JPEG. The 2nd image, I downloaded the raw and opened it using RawTherapee, a free but powerful editor. The point I'm making here is that I did NOT use any noise reduction. It was turned off, yet the noise grain is finer than in their image despite using sharpening. I processed the image to be similar but there's minor differences. There may be better ways to process, certainly worse ways, but for me, it has got to be budget minded.

c52c212fa6e54bc487bfae7bf89e6474.jpg

df1ba78d17d34d7ca27628260ac95b6a.jpg
My personal opinion

Noise in MFT sensors are due to the following vicious circle:

1. User believes small sensor has noise

2. User sets a low ISO as starting point

3. User underexposes the image as ISO was too low

4. User tries to correct the image using a raw editor

5. Optional - User applies some noise reduction also to low ISO shots with tools like topaz etc

ISO maps different level of analogue gain in the camera this cannot be recovered in post processing with digital gain. Set your aperture and shutter based on what you need to accomplish and maximise light then if you need to worry about ISO

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b8ca7162621240c1a40650189f0494dc.jpg

6400 ISO. You just need to know how to use noise reduction in various software, I find that PS (ACR actually) and On1 can help color photos up to 12,500.
DXO Lab 4 Deep Prime is incredible for M43. Topaz Denoise is also very good, but Deep Prime is another level above. Nothing else compares to those two.

After trying those 2 products I would feel much better about shooting at 3200 - 6400 and even 128,000 if needed (i.e. freeze motion in low light).
 
I agree, I don’t see any issues with noise & MFT. I also agree with jeff4500’s comment above that on the occasion you do experience noise, you just need to know how to process it in post.

I shoot with an Olympus EM-1 Mk3 & am really impressed/happy with the results. And most of the time only requires light processing in Lightroom & sometimes Topaz De Noise if a little extra NR is needed :)

Couple of shot below I’m particularly happy with, including the first one that was taken in not brilliant light at all.



436c99313e764174a8efce5020919975.jpg



d42a87c4fb554eadb789bf26494a3fc2.jpg

Personally I find Lightroom excellent & Topaz if needed.
 
I keep hearing people having issues with noise in their images. I also see people post images with what I consider too much noise at base ISO.

I never have this issue. I use a GX80 but I don't think that the camera model matters that much unless it was the older 12mp models.

Anyhow, below are two photos. They are from the DPR 150-400mm lens review. I noticed the usual "pile on" about the image noise from other format users in the comments. I tend to agree, there is too much noise. The first image is cropped from their JPEG. The 2nd image, I downloaded the raw and opened it using RawTherapee, a free but powerful editor. The point I'm making here is that I did NOT use any noise reduction. It was turned off, yet the noise grain is finer than in their image despite using sharpening. I processed the image to be similar but there's minor differences. There may be better ways to process, certainly worse ways, but for me, it has got to be budget minded.

c52c212fa6e54bc487bfae7bf89e6474.jpg

df1ba78d17d34d7ca27628260ac95b6a.jpg
My personal opinion

Noise in MFT sensors are due to the following vicious circle:

1. User believes small sensor has noise

2. User sets a low ISO as starting point

3. User underexposes the image as ISO was too low

4. User tries to correct the image using a raw editor

5. Optional - User applies some noise reduction also to low ISO shots with tools like topaz etc

ISO maps different level of analogue gain in the camera this cannot be recovered in post processing with digital gain. Set your aperture and shutter based on what you need to accomplish and maximise light then if you need to worry about ISO
This is exactly right in overview, wrong in the details., The problem is exactly caused by people wrongly thinking that high ISO settings cause noise, and thus setting too low ISO for the exposure that they will use. The truth is that the electronic noise added by the camera actually reduces as the ISO is raised, so noisewise you're best with the higher ISO setting, so long as it doesn't clip the highlights at the exposure you use. There is nothing whatsoever to be gained by using a low ISO and low exposure, it's double jeopardy.

But, it's not a case of substituting 'analogue gain' with 'digital gain'. 'Gain' is not needed for producing a higher ISO. The reason that the voltage gain is there is exactly to reduce the electronic noise at high ISOs, when exposures will usually be low. Digital processing functions do not add noise, so the problem with low ISIO is that the analogue circuitry adds more noise at low ISO settings, not that 'digital gain' is an inadequate substitute for 'analogue gain'.

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@ Simon97

The complaints about noise in the images you posted are, I believe, based on a misunderstanding. Contemporary M43 cameras, shooting raw images, have minimal noise at ISO 200. Assuming that the image was properly (fully) exposed, the fault must be elsewhere, probably the wide dynamic range of the image. In that case, it is just what we should expect, the shadows are blocked, without apparent detail. I haven't seen a concurrent image made with a FF camera, but I would not be surprised if it would give a similar result.

Several writers on this thread have noted that AI denoising is now available that can improve the SNR of M43 images to give results much closer to those achieved by FF without AI. Is it possible that M43 cameras could incorporate AI denoising in their processing, outputting images with much lower apparent noise levels.
 
I keep hearing people having issues with noise in their images. I also see people post images with what I consider too much noise at base ISO.

I never have this issue. I use a GX80 but I don't think that the camera model matters that much unless it was the older 12mp models.

Anyhow, below are two photos. They are from the DPR 150-400mm lens review. I noticed the usual "pile on" about the image noise from other format users in the comments. I tend to agree, there is too much noise. The first image is cropped from their JPEG. The 2nd image, I downloaded the raw and opened it using RawTherapee, a free but powerful editor. The point I'm making here is that I did NOT use any noise reduction. It was turned off, yet the noise grain is finer than in their image despite using sharpening. I processed the image to be similar but there's minor differences. There may be better ways to process, certainly worse ways, but for me, it has got to be budget minded.

c52c212fa6e54bc487bfae7bf89e6474.jpg

df1ba78d17d34d7ca27628260ac95b6a.jpg
My personal opinion

Noise in MFT sensors are due to the following vicious circle:

1. User believes small sensor has noise

2. User sets a low ISO as starting point

3. User underexposes the image as ISO was too low

4. User tries to correct the image using a raw editor

5. Optional - User applies some noise reduction also to low ISO shots with tools like topaz etc

ISO maps different level of analogue gain in the camera this cannot be recovered in post processing with digital gain. Set your aperture and shutter based on what you need to accomplish and maximise light then if you need to worry about ISO
This is exactly right in overview, wrong in the details., The problem is exactly caused by people wrongly thinking that high ISO settings cause noise, and thus setting too low ISO for the exposure that they will use. The truth is that the electronic noise added by the camera actually reduces as the ISO is raised, so noisewise you're best with the higher ISO setting, so long as it doesn't clip the highlights at the exposure you use. There is nothing whatsoever to be gained by using a low ISO and low exposure, it's double jeopardy.

But, it's not a case of substituting 'analogue gain' with 'digital gain'. 'Gain' is not needed for producing a higher ISO. The reason that the voltage gain is there is exactly to reduce the electronic noise at high ISOs, when exposures will usually be low. Digital processing functions do not add noise, so the problem with low ISIO is that the analogue circuitry adds more noise at low ISO settings, not that 'digital gain' is an inadequate substitute for 'analogue gain'.
My statement is entirely correct in so far as the editing correction cannot recover an incorrect exposure as exposure was set at the time of the shot manipulating a RAW files does not correct the exposure by me referred as digital gain.

In terms of your statement is it not true that camera add more noise at low ISO setting clearly each amplifier has a base noise but as gain increases this does not stay flat it also goes up because noise gets amplified too.

The point is that if the level of light is low it makes sense to apply gain as that will amplify also the signal and improve SNR this will in turn reduce the maximum DR but as long as it does not clip this is not an issue. This is the reason when you model input referred noise you see a pattern going downwards it does not mean the level of noise goes down but the level of gain goes up the total maximum SNR therefore still drops as consequence with increase in gain despite read noise is actually going up (but less than gain)

So while it is true that when the image is correctly exposed and you want to maximise DR you should keep gain low the reality is that a lot of situation either don't fill the DR of the camera and therefore you can pump up the gain without issues and improve SNR

OR would clip anyway and what is important is to expose correctly what matters in the image.

Either way you start with exposure and artistic intent that means aperture and shutter and worry about ISO later not the other way around



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My statement is entirely correct in so far as the editing correction cannot recover an incorrect exposure as exposure was set at the time of the shot manipulating a RAW files does not correct the exposure by me referred as digital gain.

In terms of your statement is it not true that camera add more noise at low ISO setting clearly each amplifier has a base noise but as gain increases this does not stay flat it also goes up because noise gets amplified too.

The point is that if the level of light is low it makes sense to apply gain as that will amplify also the signal and improve SNR this will in turn reduce the maximum DR but as long as it does not clip this is not an issue. This is the reason when you model input referred noise you see a pattern going downwards it does not mean the level of noise goes down but the level of gain goes up the total maximum SNR therefore still drops as consequence with increase in gain despite read noise is actually going up (but less than gain)

So while it is true that when the image is correctly exposed and you want to maximise DR you should keep gain low the reality is that a lot of situation either don't fill the DR of the camera and therefore you can pump up the gain without issues and improve SNR

OR would clip anyway and what is important is to expose correctly what matters in the image.

Either way you start with exposure and artistic intent that means aperture and shutter and worry about ISO later not the other way around
You're right, exposure is everything when it comes to noise. But not for the reason you think.

The electronic noise in a modern camera is far overshadowed by the shot noise of the photons, which is a property of the light itself and can't be overcome by any sensor magic. The only way to reduce shot noise is to get more photons, i.e. a higher exposure. The best strategy is to increase exposure until the highlights are in danger of being clipped.

The problem with raising ISO is that it also raises the sensitivity of the camera's metering, often resulting in a lower exposure. It also lowers the clipping threshold, meaning you'll have to back off the exposure even if the meter wasn't doing it for you.
 
My statement is entirely correct in so far as the editing correction cannot recover an incorrect exposure as exposure was set at the time of the shot manipulating a RAW files does not correct the exposure by me referred as digital gain.

In terms of your statement is it not true that camera add more noise at low ISO setting clearly each amplifier has a base noise but as gain increases this does not stay flat it also goes up because noise gets amplified too.

The point is that if the level of light is low it makes sense to apply gain as that will amplify also the signal and improve SNR this will in turn reduce the maximum DR but as long as it does not clip this is not an issue. This is the reason when you model input referred noise you see a pattern going downwards it does not mean the level of noise goes down but the level of gain goes up the total maximum SNR therefore still drops as consequence with increase in gain despite read noise is actually going up (but less than gain)

So while it is true that when the image is correctly exposed and you want to maximise DR you should keep gain low the reality is that a lot of situation either don't fill the DR of the camera and therefore you can pump up the gain without issues and improve SNR

OR would clip anyway and what is important is to expose correctly what matters in the image.

Either way you start with exposure and artistic intent that means aperture and shutter and worry about ISO later not the other way around
You're right, exposure is everything when it comes to noise. But not for the reason you think.

The electronic noise in a modern camera is far overshadowed by the shot noise of the photons, which is a property of the light itself and can't be overcome by any sensor magic. The only way to reduce shot noise is to get more photons, i.e. a higher exposure. The best strategy is to increase exposure until the highlights are in danger of being clipped.

The problem with raising ISO is that it also raises the sensitivity of the camera's metering, often resulting in a lower exposure. It also lowers the clipping threshold, meaning you'll have to back off the exposure even if the meter wasn't doing it for you.
Your statement is already contained in my sentence

while it is true that when the image is correctly exposed and you want to maximise DR you should keep gain low

Most of the images you see don't have this issue they have other problems of lacking proper exposure.

Of course you can clip and as maximum SNR is proportional to area larger sensor always have an edge but this does not mean at all that every shot with plenty of light has to have noise. You can have a bright scene very uniform that actually has limited dynamic range won't clip and won't have noise

In essence every photographer has to learn how to expose their images there is no magic bullet such as keep your base iso or anything like that

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I agree with everyone’s comments in regards to wrong exposure being more of an issue with noise, than ISO or even sensor.

A few days ago I actually myself posted a thread on here regarding an image it took on my MFT Oly EM-1 Mk3 where I was surprised about the amount of noise in a large blue area of the image, even though the image was taken with ISO 200. Because of this I was confused, because I too originally thought low ISO meant less noise & as I said on this thread earlier, normally I have no issues with noise even on MFT (referring to the original OP’s point).

So basically I questioned this in a thread as although I was still able to get the image look absolutely fine using Lr & Topaz, it did make me wonder why so much noise in this particular image @ 200 ISO.. anyways following my post a very kind guy offered to take the original image from me & he would analyse it through raw analysis software he has, to find out the actual cause of the noise. In a nutshell the result was nothing to do with ISO & was infact to do with the exposure & the such high dynamic range this particular had. As an outcome along many, it actually indicated that when exposing the image, to eradicate that noise I would have needed to over expose the image by as much as +2 full stops of exposure Compensation.

His full analysis is on the thread (sorry I don’t know how to link it), but essentially it really helped me understand that the sensor size wasn’t the cause of the noise, it was infact the exposure & that even at such low ISO, any size senso including FF would also have struggled with which high dynamic range.

Obviously this made me happy to know it’s not my MFT sensor & also thought me how exposure & noise really works.

But again another good thing now, is we all have access to such good quality PP software which helps lessen the worries, when faced with such situations :)
 
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I see the images in the original post and conclude that some folks aren't pleased unless there is a technical excellence that meets their standards...beyond whether the captured image was any good in the first place. I'm in the later camp, show me good/interesting images taken with m43 cameras and while I enjoy them you (meaning whomever is hung up on excessive concerns in the noise department) can search closely for the noise.

--
Joe
 
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I keep hearing people having issues with noise in their images. I also see people post images with what I consider too much noise at base ISO.

I never have this issue. I use a GX80 but I don't think that the camera model matters that much unless it was the older 12mp models.

Anyhow, below are two photos. They are from the DPR 150-400mm lens review. I noticed the usual "pile on" about the image noise from other format users in the comments. I tend to agree, there is too much noise. The first image is cropped from their JPEG. The 2nd image, I downloaded the raw and opened it using RawTherapee, a free but powerful editor. The point I'm making here is that I did NOT use any noise reduction. It was turned off, yet the noise grain is finer than in their image despite using sharpening. I processed the image to be similar but there's minor differences. There may be better ways to process, certainly worse ways, but for me, it has got to be budget minded.

c52c212fa6e54bc487bfae7bf89e6474.jpg

df1ba78d17d34d7ca27628260ac95b6a.jpg
My personal opinion

Noise in MFT sensors are due to the following vicious circle:

1. User believes small sensor has noise

2. User sets a low ISO as starting point

3. User underexposes the image as ISO was too low

4. User tries to correct the image using a raw editor

5. Optional - User applies some noise reduction also to low ISO shots with tools like topaz etc

ISO maps different level of analogue gain in the camera this cannot be recovered in post processing with digital gain. Set your aperture and shutter based on what you need to accomplish and maximise light then if you need to worry about ISO
This is exactly right in overview, wrong in the details., The problem is exactly caused by people wrongly thinking that high ISO settings cause noise, and thus setting too low ISO for the exposure that they will use. The truth is that the electronic noise added by the camera actually reduces as the ISO is raised, so noisewise you're best with the higher ISO setting, so long as it doesn't clip the highlights at the exposure you use. There is nothing whatsoever to be gained by using a low ISO and low exposure, it's double jeopardy.

But, it's not a case of substituting 'analogue gain' with 'digital gain'. 'Gain' is not needed for producing a higher ISO. The reason that the voltage gain is there is exactly to reduce the electronic noise at high ISOs, when exposures will usually be low. Digital processing functions do not add noise, so the problem with low ISIO is that the analogue circuitry adds more noise at low ISO settings, not that 'digital gain' is an inadequate substitute for 'analogue gain'.
My statement is entirely correct in so far as the editing correction cannot recover an incorrect exposure as exposure was set at the time of the shot manipulating a RAW files does not correct the exposure by me referred as digital gain.

In terms of your statement is it not true that camera add more noise at low ISO setting clearly each amplifier has a base noise but as gain increases this does not stay flat it also goes up because noise gets amplified too.
The point is that if the level of light is low it makes sense to apply gain as that will amplify also the signal and improve SNR this will in turn reduce the maximum DR but as long as it does not clip this is not an issue. This is the reason when you model input referred noise you see a pattern going downwards it does not mean the level of noise goes down but the level of gain goes up the total maximum SNR therefore still drops as consequence with increase in gain despite read noise is actually going up (but less than gain)
OK, this is what is called a semantic argument. Adding voltage gain is the mechanism by which the SNR is increased. Generally in photographic terms we associate 'less noise' with a 'higher SNR'. The reason for this is that the highest signal level, whatever it is, gets translated to 'white', so we always appreciate noise as being relative to 'white', in other words, visible noise is dependent on SNR.
So while it is true that when the image is correctly exposed and you want to maximise DR you should keep gain low the reality is that a lot of situation either don't fill the DR of the camera and therefore you can pump up the gain without issues and improve SNR

OR would clip anyway and what is important is to expose correctly what matters in the image.

Either way you start with exposure and artistic intent that means aperture and shutter and worry about ISO later not the other way around
Agreed. And that's one reason I don't go with the notion of 'correct exposure' - what is usually called 'correct exposure' is determined by the ISO setting, rathe you should be choosing to maximise exposure, depending on constraints such as DOF, motion blur, sharpness, diffraction, etc, and letting ISO follow along.

As I said, your post is right in the outcomes, we differ in how to think about the details, so not worth arguing about.

--
Is it always wrong
for one to have the hots for
Comrade Kim Yo Jong?
 
I keep hearing people having issues with noise in their images. I also see people post images with what I consider too much noise at base ISO.

I never have this issue. I use a GX80 but I don't think that the camera model matters that much unless it was the older 12mp models.

Anyhow, below are two photos. They are from the DPR 150-400mm lens review. I noticed the usual "pile on" about the image noise from other format users in the comments. I tend to agree, there is too much noise. The first image is cropped from their JPEG. The 2nd image, I downloaded the raw and opened it using RawTherapee, a free but powerful editor. The point I'm making here is that I did NOT use any noise reduction. It was turned off, yet the noise grain is finer than in their image despite using sharpening. I processed the image to be similar but there's minor differences. There may be better ways to process, certainly worse ways, but for me, it has got to be budget minded.

c52c212fa6e54bc487bfae7bf89e6474.jpg

df1ba78d17d34d7ca27628260ac95b6a.jpg
My personal opinion

Noise in MFT sensors are due to the following vicious circle:

1. User believes small sensor has noise

2. User sets a low ISO as starting point

3. User underexposes the image as ISO was too low

4. User tries to correct the image using a raw editor

5. Optional - User applies some noise reduction also to low ISO shots with tools like topaz etc

ISO maps different level of analogue gain in the camera this cannot be recovered in post processing with digital gain. Set your aperture and shutter based on what you need to accomplish and maximise light then if you need to worry about ISO
This is exactly right in overview, wrong in the details., The problem is exactly caused by people wrongly thinking that high ISO settings cause noise, and thus setting too low ISO for the exposure that they will use. The truth is that the electronic noise added by the camera actually reduces as the ISO is raised, so noisewise you're best with the higher ISO setting, so long as it doesn't clip the highlights at the exposure you use. There is nothing whatsoever to be gained by using a low ISO and low exposure, it's double jeopardy.

But, it's not a case of substituting 'analogue gain' with 'digital gain'. 'Gain' is not needed for producing a higher ISO. The reason that the voltage gain is there is exactly to reduce the electronic noise at high ISOs, when exposures will usually be low. Digital processing functions do not add noise, so the problem with low ISIO is that the analogue circuitry adds more noise at low ISO settings, not that 'digital gain' is an inadequate substitute for 'analogue gain'.
My statement is entirely correct in so far as the editing correction cannot recover an incorrect exposure as exposure was set at the time of the shot manipulating a RAW files does not correct the exposure by me referred as digital gain.

In terms of your statement is it not true that camera add more noise at low ISO setting clearly each amplifier has a base noise but as gain increases this does not stay flat it also goes up because noise gets amplified too.

The point is that if the level of light is low it makes sense to apply gain as that will amplify also the signal and improve SNR this will in turn reduce the maximum DR but as long as it does not clip this is not an issue. This is the reason when you model input referred noise you see a pattern going downwards it does not mean the level of noise goes down but the level of gain goes up the total maximum SNR therefore still drops as consequence with increase in gain despite read noise is actually going up (but less than gain)
OK, this is what is called a semantic argument. Adding voltage gain is the mechanism by which the SNR is increased. Generally in photographic terms we associate 'less noise' with a 'higher SNR'. The reason for this is that the highest signal level, whatever it is, gets translated to 'white', so we always appreciate noise as being relative to 'white', in other words, visible noise is dependent on SNR.
So while it is true that when the image is correctly exposed and you want to maximise DR you should keep gain low the reality is that a lot of situation either don't fill the DR of the camera and therefore you can pump up the gain without issues and improve SNR

OR would clip anyway and what is important is to expose correctly what matters in the image.

Either way you start with exposure and artistic intent that means aperture and shutter and worry about ISO later not the other way around
Agreed. And that's one reason I don't go with the notion of 'correct exposure' - what is usually called 'correct exposure' is determined by the ISO setting, rathe you should be choosing to maximise exposure, depending on constraints such as DOF, motion blur, sharpness, diffraction, etc, and letting ISO follow along.

As I said, your post is right in the outcomes, we differ in how to think about the details, so not worth arguing about.
And for once we agree. I go and open a bottle of beer cheers

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I suspect that the “noise” is simply the signature Adobe Camera Raw residue that I find in almost every Olympus raw file that is opened directly with Lightroom or Photoshop.

I’ve posted the examples below a few times before.

Both from the same Olympus raw file...one opened directly into Lightroom and the other converted with Olympus Workspace, both shown at 1:4 magnification. I’m sure the Workspace conversion has some built in noise reduction, but after applying the needed noise reduction to get rid of the Adobe “paisleys” I find it better to stick with WS.




Adobe Camera Raw




Olympus Workspace
 
I suspect that the “noise” is simply the signature Adobe Camera Raw residue that I find in almost every Olympus raw file that is opened directly with Lightroom or Photoshop.

I’ve posted the examples below a few times before.

Both from the same Olympus raw file...one opened directly into Lightroom and the other converted with Olympus Workspace, both shown at 1:4 magnification. I’m sure the Workspace conversion has some built in noise reduction, but after applying the needed noise reduction to get rid of the Adobe “paisleys” I find it better to stick with WS.


Adobe Camera Raw


Olympus Workspace
I completely agree that Adobe Camera Raw has always done a poor job at converting Olympus ORF files. Using the example from the original poster, below is the full-size Space Needle photo with 3 different raw conversions. Note that I lifted the shadows some in Workspace and PhotoLab. My observation is that Workspace has less objectionable noise than ACR. But PhotoLab 4 with DeepPRIME noise reduction has even less noise while retaining greater detail in the shadow areas such as the observation deck, elevator, and clouds. You will need to pixel peep to fully appreciate the differences.

ACR (from DPReview 150-400mm lens review)
ACR (from DPReview 150-400mm lens review)

Olympus Workspace (from DPReview ORF)
Olympus Workspace (from DPReview ORF)

DxO PhotoLab 4 with DeepPRIME (from DPReview ORF)
DxO PhotoLab 4 with DeepPRIME (from DPReview ORF)
 
I also blame ACR's default 25% sharpening setting which may be useful at ISO100 but at hight ISO it only sharpens the remaining noise after noise reduction. The compulsory distortion correction can make the image slightly blurry which makes the end result even worse.
I suspect that the “noise” is simply the signature Adobe Camera Raw residue that I find in almost every Olympus raw file that is opened directly with Lightroom or Photoshop.

I’ve posted the examples below a few times before.

Both from the same Olympus raw file...one opened directly into Lightroom and the other converted with Olympus Workspace, both shown at 1:4 magnification. I’m sure the Workspace conversion has some built in noise reduction, but after applying the needed noise reduction to get rid of the Adobe “paisleys” I find it better to stick with WS.


Adobe Camera Raw
 
I also blame ACR's default 25% sharpening setting which may be useful at ISO100 but at hight ISO it only sharpens the remaining noise after noise reduction. The compulsory distortion correction can make the image slightly blurry which makes the end result even worse.
I suspect that the “noise” is simply the signature Adobe Camera Raw residue that I find in almost every Olympus raw file that is opened directly with Lightroom or Photoshop.

I’ve posted the examples below a few times before.

Both from the same Olympus raw file...one opened directly into Lightroom and the other converted with Olympus Workspace, both shown at 1:4 magnification. I’m sure the Workspace conversion has some built in noise reduction, but after applying the needed noise reduction to get rid of the Adobe “paisleys” I find it better to stick with WS.


Adobe Camera Raw
Default sharpening was 25% which was OK but now is 40% which is not ok at all

Take into account that ACR also applies chroma noise reduction to any image

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The solution : PhotoLab 4 deep Prime. Bye bye noise.

I keep hearing people having issues with noise in their images. I also see people post images with what I consider too much noise at base ISO.

I never have this issue. I use a GX80 but I don't think that the camera model matters that much unless it was the older 12mp models.

Anyhow, below are two photos. They are from the DPR 150-400mm lens review. I noticed the usual "pile on" about the image noise from other format users in the comments. I tend to agree, there is too much noise. The first image is cropped from their JPEG. The 2nd image, I downloaded the raw and opened it using RawTherapee, a free but powerful editor. The point I'm making here is that I did NOT use any noise reduction. It was turned off, yet the noise grain is finer than in their image despite using sharpening. I processed the image to be similar but there's minor differences. There may be better ways to process, certainly worse ways, but for me, it has got to be budget minded.

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Why not just create an import default preset in ACR (Lightroom), where all NR & Sharpening is set to zero?

This is what I have done, so then that way nothing is applied on import and so gives me full control, to which I can then choose whether to use ACR for detail or pass through Topaz?
 

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