tinternaut
Veteran Member
You can add “Express for Fujifilm” to those two words. So feel free to call it five words. Oh, and before you jump from one quirky Japanese outlier, to the next, don't forget to try before your buy.
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Mark Hollister
Leading Member
I've never used Lightroom, but I know this works in Photoshop. When you're doing the raw conversion step, do the conversion without doing anything (do the conversion in 16 bit mode, if Iridient-X does do 16 bit) and save as Tiff, png or jpg. The unaltered colors are the only thing you're after here, any other thing you do in this step will be wasted effort.I second the recommendation of Iridient X-Transformer as a raw processor.
I've also used RawTherapee and find it difficult, with all those adjustments and that GUI.
I've also used the free Fuji/Silkypix raw developer available here:
https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/
None of these are perfect, of course. Iridient is by far the easiest to use, in my opinion.
You set up your preferences in this screen:
Settings screen might be a little different as software upgrades come out.
Then you select a file or a directory of files to open, and X-transformer goes to work. The output files are .dng files you can open in other software such as CS6. I actually use Photoshop Elements 2020 to do the rest of the processing. My Elements was bundled with Adobe Raw converter v12, and this is what Elements uses to open the .dngs.
It takes X-transformer about 30 seconds to process a Fuji raw, at least on my core i5 machine.
Nothing else to do. That's it.
The other converters have many settings and live previewing and so on, and you might find all this tedious.
The only quirk I've found so far with Iridient X-Transformer is that the sharpening is so good that it might be too good. Sun-reflection highlights on water can take on a rainbow hue as shown below, but this might be because my settings (shown above) apply too much sharpening.
I've seen the same thing with the Fuji/Silkypix raw processor, so it isn't unique.
Disregard white balance. Looks like I selected more sharpening in the X-transformer version.
This is the overall shot:
Rainbows almost always disappear when downsizing
Then do the raw conversion again on another copy of the raw, this time tweaking the picture in every way that you want it, including the sharpening which causes the artifacts.
Then open the first converted file which doesn't have the color artifacts, convert to 16 bit mode and then drag it to be the TOP layer and set the blending mode to color, and merge. All at once all of the bad colors are gone, but you keep the sharpening of the layer just below, plus all the other tweaks you made, EXCEPT THE COLORS, which you are restoring with the top layer.
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Erik Baumgartner
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I chose to process this similar to yours to best compare the rainbow artifacts.Here is a link to the dropbox area:This is the overall shot:
Rainbows almost always disappear when downsizing
Thom, would you mind sending a link to that RAW file. I’ve been kicking around the idea of the Mitakon and would very much like to sort out what’s going on with this image.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ifkw2kcwxu9afc5/DSCF6866.RAF?dl=0
Please let me know if it doesn't work. I don't use it much.
As for the Mitakon, I have one of those also. Great lens!
I like the Meike because it is very small and light. I can pack it, an Opteka 50mm F2, an Opteka 28mm F2.8, and my X-T3 in a fairly small camera bag that is not too heavy.
Getting this rainbow stuff is not as easy as it looks. This shot was in bright sunlight with the sun in front of me but high in the sky and not in the lens, so the water reflections were basically full-bore single points. I have shot a lot of water that does not show this sort of thing, in slightly overcast weather and so on.
It will be very interesting to see what you can do with this image!
Well, I get the same rainbow crap whether I use plain old Lightroom or with X-Transformer, Not an X-Transformer problem.
i used these IXT settings (i always add some minimal NR, both Luminance and Color in LR)...
Definitely a lens thing, but it's more than the standard LR chromatic aberration could manage. Sharpening will accentuate the issue some, but it isn't the cause, I'm sure the somewhat overexposed highlights didn't help.
I will sometimes get some purple fringing, but nothing like this with my Fuji 35 f/1.4. I will say, that if this was at f/5.6, that the Mitakon may not be best all purpose 35mm option.
There is a profile for this lens in Lightroom (needs to be selected manually), but it does nothing to mitigate the aberrations, it only seems to correct the geometry ( I didn't use it here).
It was relatively easy to clean up the rainbow artifacts, i just added a radial filter to the affected central area and bumped up the moire slider to +25, it doesn't seem to have otherwise messed up the color significantly. You could always brush it in selectively if there was a problem.
Here's the whole thing...
compared to the original rainbows...
Attachments
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Tom Schum
Forum Pro
Please note my sample shot was with a Meike 35mm F1.4 manual lens, not my Mitakon.
Tom Schum
Forum Pro
Looks great! I'll play around with what software I have, being reluctant to buy Lightroom at the moment.
Well, I get the same rainbow crap whether I use plain old Lightroom or with X-Transformer, Not an X-Transformer problem.
i used these IXT settings (i always add some minimal NR, both Luminance and Color in LR)...
It was relatively easy to clean up the rainbow artifacts, i just added a radial filter to the affected central area and bumped up the moire slider to +25, it doesn't seem to have otherwise messed up the color significantly. You could always brush it in selectively if there was a problem.
snip
compared to the original rainbows...
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Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor
Tom Schum
Forum Pro
I guess the secret here is to have at least one raw conversion that doesn't have the color artifacts. How do you do the raw conversions?
Are you using Photoshop Elements 2020?
Mark Hollister
Leading Member
Tom Schum
Forum Pro
I was unable to get artifact-free results from Iridient X-Transformer.
Here are my Iridient X-Transformer settings:
I opened the resultant .dng using Camera Raw, but was unable to remove the color artifacts by adjusting camera raw noise sliders.
color corrections to max, still seeing color artifacts
Just for a test I tried opening the raw itself, using Camera Raw, not Iridient:
Now we have lots of wormies as well as the same old color artifacts.
So, now what?
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Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor
Erik Baumgartner
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Personally, I'd be looking for a better 35mm lens,I was unable to get artifact-free results from Iridient X-Transformer.
Here are my Iridient X-Transformer settings:
I opened the resultant .dng using Camera Raw, but was unable to remove the color artifacts by adjusting camera raw noise sliders.
color corrections to max, still seeing color artifacts
Just for a test I tried opening the raw itself, using Camera Raw, not Iridient:
Now we have lots of wormies as well as the same old color artifacts.
So, now what?
but don't you have a moire slider in the ACR brush adjusment panel?
RetiringGuy
Leading Member
Tom,
My quick try In Capture One.
Basically my default sharpening, clarity and structure. Some highlight compression, a little shadow boost and a black end levels tweak.
All these adjustments would be available in the free Capture One Express for Fujifilm. ( I didn't notice much if any rainbow effect before my tweaks. Maybe that's a C1 thing ? )
Without knowing the.Aperture used for the shot I can't apply C1s' diffraction correction. It probably wouldn't make much difference but it would have been nice to have had the info.
RG
My quick try In Capture One.
Basically my default sharpening, clarity and structure. Some highlight compression, a little shadow boost and a black end levels tweak.
All these adjustments would be available in the free Capture One Express for Fujifilm. ( I didn't notice much if any rainbow effect before my tweaks. Maybe that's a C1 thing ? )
Without knowing the.Aperture used for the shot I can't apply C1s' diffraction correction. It probably wouldn't make much difference but it would have been nice to have had the info.
RG
Mark Hollister
Leading Member
I've never used Iridient, so I'm going to wing it here:I was unable to get artifact-free results from Iridient X-Transformer.
Here are my Iridient X-Transformer settings:
I opened the resultant .dng using Camera Raw, but was unable to remove the color artifacts by adjusting camera raw noise sliders.
color corrections to max, still seeing color artifacts
Just for a test I tried opening the raw itself, using Camera Raw, not Iridient:
Now we have lots of wormies as well as the same old color artifacts.
So, now what?
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Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor
Since your Adobe Camera Raw output has less artifacts, I'd use that one as the contributor to step 1 that I previously outlined- for better color. (no worries, the worms won't become part of the merged image.)
Do step 2 as I outlined before. Then put step 1's output on top as before, set to color blend. One additional step now: gaussian blur the top layer a few pixels - as few as possible, just enough to get rid of the artifacts. Then merge.
It's a kludge, but it should work. Only the color of the top layer is being contributed, the worms won't be.
Your only other option if you're not satisfied with the kludge is to find a substitute for Iridient in step 1. That may not be as hard as it sounds, since all you need is good color output (no weird colors). The object is to merge a layer which has good color with a worm-free layer.
Mark Hollister
Leading Member
The colors look good to me, RG. I don't know about the worm factor, since I'm looking at this on a phone.Tom,
My quick try In Capture One.
Basically my default sharpening, clarity and structure. Some highlight compression, a little shadow boost and a black end levels tweak.
All these adjustments would be available in the free Capture One Express for Fujifilm. ( I didn't notice much if any rainbow effect before my tweaks. Maybe that's a C1 thing ? )
Without knowing the.Aperture used for the shot I can't apply C1s' diffraction correction. It probably wouldn't make much difference but it would have been nice to have had the info.
RG
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Erik Baumgartner
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This is just with cranking the Color NR in Lightroom way up (same as ACR) - it got rid of most of the rainbow artifacts too.
Lightroom/IXT with lots of Color NR
Adding some Color NR in Topaz Denoise also cleaned it up pretty well.
Lightroom/IXT with lots of Color NR
Adding some Color NR in Topaz Denoise also cleaned it up pretty well.
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Tom Schum
Forum Pro
Really good results here! Looks like sophisticated tools are working here. I don't have this sort of thing in Photoshop Elements 2020, at least not where I could find it.
And it looks like this sort of sophisticated tooling will be needed regardless of glass:
I went back today and tried my Fuji 50mm F2 WR on the scene. Same rainbow problem. So this problem occurs even with genuine Fuji lenses, and the problem appears in the free Fuji/Silkypix raw developer too.
Comparison of 100% crops. Rainbows seem brightest in Velvia with the free Fuji/Silkypix raw developer. I like the rendering in Iridient better.
5mb download. Iridient-developed shot, from which the crop above was made.
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Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor
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Erik Baumgartner
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Did you walk up close to make sure the rainbow effect wasn’t actually present in the water? Do you have any kind of filter on your lenses? I’ve never seen that effect in any of my photos.Really good results here! Looks like sophisticated tools are working here.
And it looks like this sort of sophisticated tooling will be needed regardless of glass:
I went back today and tried my Fuji 50mm F2 WR on the scene. Same rainbow problem. So this problem occurs even with genuine Fuji lenses, and the problem appears in the free Fuji/Silkypix raw developer too.
Comparison of 100% crops. Rainbows seem brightest in Velvia with the free Fuji/Silkypix raw developer. I like the rendering in Iridient better.
5mb download. Iridient-developed shot, from which the crop above was made.
Tom Schum
Forum Pro
Can't easily walk up close. I have to wade down in the creek at least 1/2 block to get to this set of rocks. It was oppressively hot today, and the sun was fully exposed.
I have a HOYA EVO clear protector filter on my Fuji 50mm F2 WR.
To get this sort of thing, the sunlight has to be very strong, and you have to be in a good place to get the reflections from the water highlights.
The in-camera JPG shows very little of this effect. I edited the in-camera JPG in Photoshop Elements 2020 and increased saturation to make any effect more evident, but it is still only just barely visible in the result:
Edited JPG from the camera
un-edited JPG from the camera
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Tom Schum
Copper: Mankind's favorite electrical conductor
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Erik Baumgartner
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No filters on your lenses?Can't easily walk up close. I have to wade down in the creek at least 1/2 block to get to this set of rocks. It was oppressively hot today, and the sun was fully exposed.
To get this sort of thing, the sunlight has to be very strong, and you have to be in a good place to get the reflections from the water highlights.
The in-camera JPG shows very little of this effect. I edited the in-camera JPG in Photoshop Elements 2020 and increased saturation to make any effect more evident, but it is still only just barely visible in the result:
Edited JPG from the camera
un-edited JPG from the camera
Tom Schum
Forum Pro
I have this one on my Fuji 50mm F2 WR lens:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...a_46protec_46mm_evo_antistatic_protector.html
I use other, less expensive clear protector filters on my low cost manual lenses such as the Meike and Opteka:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...mm_Digital_Ultra_Clear.html?sts=hist-pi&pim=Y
Erik Baumgartner
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Tom Schum
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I will... Hopefully tomorrow.
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