Noise and ISO, One more thread

Ok, I am FINALLY convinced that increasing the gain of sensors by raising ISO is not the same as ISO in film. Iliah finally overcame my obtuseness. But I STILL recommend shooting in higher ISO's in dim light.
This is why I went back to film for B&W. I actually seek out the film that has more grain, as I think it adds a certain something to a candid people picture.

The digital filters I've seen don't quite do it for me.
 
Ok, I am FINALLY convinced that increasing the gain of sensors by raising ISO is not the same as ISO in film. Iliah finally overcame my obtuseness. But I STILL recommend shooting in higher ISO's in dim light.

Why?

Because conducting an experiment to convince myself that I was wrong, I had a hell of a hard time in Adobe Raw making my ISO 100 image look decent. I had to lower the shadows, lower the color saturation, etc. Whereas the ISO 1600 image needed almost no adjustment. So, there IS an advantage in shooting at the higher ISO.
What you experienced is to be expected if the exposure was the same (ei.e. aperture and shutter settings were the same and the scene lighting didn't change) but the ISO settings were changed.

However, one would not expect to get better results shooting at a higher aperture and a correspondingly lower exposure.
What I did was shoot for the light meter in ISO 1600. That gave me a 1/100 shutter speed.

I then reset the camera to !SO 100, and all other aspects were set the same as for the ISO 1600 shot. In other words a four stop difference.

Going to Adobe RAW, I needed no adjustments for the ISO 1600 shot to be perfect.
The initial results from Adobe RAW to the ISO 100 image was a garish, noisy image. But by playing with shadows, color saturation, etc, I was able to FINALLY produce an identical version of the image to the 1600 shot.
Your test scenario is the same one DPR uses to test ISO invariance. If you were using the Nikon D7100 for your testing, here's the relevant results from DPR's ISO invariance test for that camera (note visible banding and noise in the shadows only really breaks through at a 5 ev difference in ISO. The D7100, while not completely ISO invariant, is close enough to invariant in most real world use cases that the DR benefits of keeping ISO low will generally outweigh the noise benefits of upping the ISO. YMMV.
 
The problem here is that in the RAW file itself, there is no concept of "middle grey".
You mean raw data has no concept of mid-grey. When a camera is designed the mid-grey for raw is defined and a value to tat effect is recorded in metadata of each raw file. At least that's the case with Fujifilm, that I know for sure.
There is a lot of metadata.
Irrelevant to your misunderstanding of raw files.
I suspect you are referring to metadata that indicates the camera's ISO setting.
Not at all. I'm referring to metadata fields nicknamed raw exposure bias for Fujifilm, and, as a colleague here advises me, sensor calibration for Olympus. Adobe calls it baseline exposure.
White Balance is a good topic.
Irrelevant here.
If you are shooting RAW, the images White Balance is determined when you process the data.
You were looking for the word "applied", not "determined". Not always, raw multishots and some other cases form exceptions.
 
You are attributing a misconception that does not exist
You will need Houdini-level skills to explain the following differently from the misconception Bob describes (taken from https://www.colesclassroom.com/understanding-iso )

The job of ISO is merely to amplify the light signal that the camera receives. In the process, it can produce a similar effect as opening the aperture or using a slow shutter speed.
Nice. Here is another one, "Lower ISO numbers produce sharper images in most situations. The lower light amplification produces less grain / noise, and the pictures look sharper." - https://www.livingez.us/2016/11/30/basics-of-iso
Some cameras will apply more noise reduction at higher ISO settings. Noise reduction algorithms may reduce sharpness.
You are missing the point.
They also say "The ISO values start at 100". It doesn't look like one needs to know anything about the subject to write about it.

Googling brings a lot of links saying something like "ISO - How much the available light is amplified".
One might also say that pressing in a car's gas pedal makes the engine turn faster. Actually, pressing on the pedal can cause the engine to slow down as it shifts into a higher gear.

The simplified explanations given to a novices are not always factually correct.
Being an advocate for incorrect explanations is your long-term stance.
 
Let's see. If I'm in auto-aperture mode, and I change EC to -2 ,then the aperture gets smaller by two stops. ISO is unaffected. If I increase ISO then aperture also gets smaller by two stops but this time the image will be processed differently. Is that what I want?

If the purpose of this adjustment was to properly expose the grey cat sitting in the middle of the dark background, then I don't want my camera to interpret the dark background as middle grey. I want it to correctly process the dark background as a dark background, and the grey cat for the middle grey that it is. Whatever internal things it may do, I want it to at least know my intention for the image.
The problem here is that in the RAW file itself, there is no concept of "middle grey". There is only a concept of how much light was recorded at each pixel.

The mapping of a certain amount of light to "middle grey" happens when the raw file is processed. The same amount of light might map to black white, dark grey, light grey or middle grey depending on the settings used for the processing. Even at the same ISO, the mapping may differ with options light Highlight Tone Priority, Auto Lightening, or various Picture Modes.

So when you say you want to "properly expose", what you really mean is that you want to get an exposure, such then when processed will produce a middle grey, and that you want to use some sort of standard processing (perhaps the camera's processing given the current settings).

This is not an unreasonable workflow, as it can result in excellent quality, and it is quite easy. I call this workflow "exposing for the JPEG" because the goal is to get a good looking camera-produced JPEG preview image. (The camera produces a JPEG preview, even when you are shooting RAW).

However, this is not the workflow that maximizes image quality (lowest noise, maximum dynamic range). The optimal workflow involves using the highest exposure that does not blow out important highlights.

In many circumstances the difference between the JPEG workflow and the optimum workflow is not significant, and a human eye may not see a difference in the final print. You can make a good case that if you can't see the difference in the final print, the difference is insignificant.

However is some situations, such as scenes with dark shadows, there can be a visible difference between the optimum exposure and the JPEG exposure. In those circumstance you may want to use the optimum exposure, and fine tune the RAW processing by hand.

This is similar to the film workflow, where exposure determined negative density, and the lightness/darkness of the image as determined when you printed.

I guess this is just a long way of saying that there isn't a single "correct exposure" with digital. The correct exposure is the one that matches your intended processing of the raw data.

With film or when shooting JPEG, you generally get the best results when your mid tones are exposed to match the ISO spec for the selected ISO. In other words you are concerned with the mid tones.

When shooting RAW, you get the best results when you are concerned about the highlights.
Indeed, matrix and spot metering can solve this problem, too. And what they're doing is the same thing ... using the ISO setting to determine exposure the part of the image you identify. The remaining portions fall way they may on the histogram.
The problem with traditional matrix metering, is that it is generally concerned about midtones, not highlights.
I completely agree that exposing for maximum quality raw images might change the calculus a bit. I should have been more clear that I was talking about interpreting ISO and EC properly for jpeg shooting.
 
Being an advocate for incorrect explanations is your long-term stance.
You have mischaracterized my position, and that is not helpful. Let's try to stick to the topic at hand, as opposed to discussing the people participating in the discussion.
 
What I've FINALLY learned is that the expression ISO for digital is a misnomer. That whereas you REALLY were increasing the sensitivity of the sensor (i.e. film) in film, in Digital, you are not affecting the "sensor" at all.
It's not really a misnomer. ISO does have a standard for exposure indices for digital, and the standard even mandates how it should be reported, as 'ISO'. To work out the confusing terminology you have to go back in history. What these things are actually is the term I use above, an 'Exposure Index', that is, a number you use to set your exposure meter in order for it to give an exposure which meets certain standardised criteria which the authors of the standard deemed to make good use of the available medium. There is really anything hard and fast about these numbers. For instance, in 1960 the ASA (American Standards Association) changed its exposure index standards so all films became a stop faster overnight with no change in their formulation.

Anyway, in those days camera controls were not labelled. You didn't have a label saying 'shutter' next to the shutter control, or one saying 'aperture' on the aperture ring. Similarly, you didn't have a label saying 'Exposure Index' on the exposure index control, but that is what it is. However, given that there were several competing Exposure Index standards, you did have a label saying which standard the control operated according to, the most common ones being 'ASA' (the standard defined by the American Standards Association) or 'DIN' (the standard defined by the Deutsches Institut für Normung). Unsurprisingly, American cameras would have their Exposure Index set according to the ASA standard and German ones according to the DIN standard. Japanese ones hedged their bet and provided both, labelling the control 'ASA/DIN' and putting both numbers on it.

So, whilst what it was, was an 'Exposure Index' control, photographers started calling it an 'ASA control', because that was how it was labeled. Later the competing standards were unified into an international ISO standard, and the control started being labelled 'ISO'. Photographers started calling it an 'ISO control', though in reality it was still an 'Exposure Index' control, though now set according to the unified ISO standard. These days, many photographers don't even know what 'Exposure Index' means.
 
Perhaps each camera is different. With mine, images shot any higher than ISO 400 are going to be unacceptably noisy to me, and images shot at ISO 200 (my camera's lowest setting) have more clipped highlights than those shot at ISO 400, so my camera stays at ISO 400 all the time. In light too dim for handheld exposures at that ISO, I either mount a flash or put the camera away. Following this procedure, noise is never an issue, and I never have to think about ISO.
I'm sure they are.

But what was beaten into my head was that raising the ISO does NOT Raise the sensitivity of the sensor. What it does is increase the amplification of the photons that the sensor receives.
That's not quite correct but you are on the right track.
Yes, I misspoke. When a photon hits the sensor, it produces and electric charge and it is that charge which gets amplified.
 
Ok, I am FINALLY convinced that increasing the gain of sensors by raising ISO is not the same as ISO in film. Iliah finally overcame my obtuseness. But I STILL recommend shooting in higher ISO's in dim light.

Why?

Because conducting an experiment to convince myself that I was wrong, I had a hell of a hard time in Adobe Raw making my ISO 100 image look decent. I had to lower the shadows, lower the color saturation, etc. Whereas the ISO 1600 image needed almost no adjustment. So, there IS an advantage in shooting at the higher ISO.
What you experienced is to be expected if the exposure was the same (ei.e. aperture and shutter settings were the same and the scene lighting didn't change) but the ISO settings were changed.

However, one would not expect to get better results shooting at a higher aperture and a correspondingly lower exposure.
What I did was shoot for the light meter in ISO 1600. That gave me a 1/100 shutter speed.

I then reset the camera to !SO 100, and all other aspects were set the same as for the ISO 1600 shot. In other words a four stop difference.

Going to Adobe RAW, I needed no adjustments for the ISO 1600 shot to be perfect.
The initial results from Adobe RAW to the ISO 100 image was a garish, noisy image. But by playing with shadows, color saturation, etc, I was able to FINALLY produce an identical version of the image to the 1600 shot.
Your test scenario is the same one DPR uses to test ISO invariance. If you were using the Nikon D7100 for your testing, here's the relevant results from DPR's ISO invariance test for that camera (note visible banding and noise in the shadows only really breaks through at a 5 ev difference in ISO. The D7100, while not completely ISO invariant, is close enough to invariant in most real world use cases that the DR benefits of keeping ISO low will generally outweigh the noise benefits of upping the ISO. YMMV.
While I own a 7100, I used a 7000, which seems to handle light about the same.

What I FOUND is that while I COULD get the same image results whether the ISO was 100 or 1600, it required a LOT more work in PP for the 100 setting to do that. So, in future, using either of these Nikon's I intend to shoot with the ISO that is most convenient for the light AND if the subject is in motion. So, for example if I'm using a tripod on a stationary target, I would use the Lowest ISO and control the light by aperture, shutter, or both.
 
Being an advocate for incorrect explanations is your long-term stance.
You have mischaracterized my position
No, it's my informed opinion, nothing personal, just something your readers may want to know and take into account.

Advocating explanations based on light amplifications is crossing the line.
I don't believe I have used that phrase or advocated any such explanations. If that's your basis for the personal attack, you may wish to issue a correction.
 
Ok, I am FINALLY convinced that increasing the gain of sensors by raising ISO is not the same as ISO in film. Iliah finally overcame my obtuseness. But I STILL recommend shooting in higher ISO's in dim light.
This is why I went back to film for B&W. I actually seek out the film that has more grain, as I think it adds a certain something to a candid people picture.

The digital filters I've seen don't quite do it for me.
Well, I've finally learned that ISO in digital is a misnomer. There is no such thing... :-)
 
What I've FINALLY learned is that the expression ISO for digital is a misnomer. That whereas you REALLY were increasing the sensitivity of the sensor (i.e. film) in film, in Digital, you are not affecting the "sensor" at all.
It's not really a misnomer. ISO does have a standard for exposure indices for digital, and the standard even mandates how it should be reported, as 'ISO'. To work out the confusing terminology you have to go back in history. What these things are actually is the term I use above, an 'Exposure Index', that is, a number you use to set your exposure meter in order for it to give an exposure which meets certain standardised criteria which the authors of the standard deemed to make good use of the available medium. There is really anything hard and fast about these numbers. For instance, in 1960 the ASA (American Standards Association) changed its exposure index standards so all films became a stop faster overnight with no change in their formulation.

Anyway, in those days camera controls were not labelled. You didn't have a label saying 'shutter' next to the shutter control, or one saying 'aperture' on the aperture ring. Similarly, you didn't have a label saying 'Exposure Index' on the exposure index control, but that is what it is. However, given that there were several competing Exposure Index standards, you did have a label saying which standard the control operated according to, the most common ones being 'ASA' (the standard defined by the American Standards Association) or 'DIN' (the standard defined by the Deutsches Institut für Normung). Unsurprisingly, American cameras would have their Exposure Index set according to the ASA standard and German ones according to the DIN standard. Japanese ones hedged their bet and provided both, labelling the control 'ASA/DIN' and putting both numbers on it.

So, whilst what it was, was an 'Exposure Index' control, photographers started calling it an 'ASA control', because that was how it was labeled. Later the competing standards were unified into an international ISO standard, and the control started being labelled 'ISO'. Photographers started calling it an 'ISO control', though in reality it was still an 'Exposure Index' control, though now set according to the unified ISO standard. These days, many photographers don't even know what 'Exposure Index' means.
I believe it to be a "misnomer." With my last film camera, A Minolta 212, I could set the ASA via a dial, and I could set the aperture manually, and the shutter speed via a dial.

Since the "sensor" on film ACTUALLY was more sensitive to light, it was a real benefit to shoot with a higher speed film in dim light. "Pushing" the exposure on a lower ASA film never produced the same results as simply USING the more light sensitive film.

So, the example I gave in my first post could never be matched with film. Pushing ASA 100 film would NEVER match the results of shooting in ASA 800 film.
 
That's fine, but it appears not to be evident to others in the discussion...
I see your comment as simply your opinion and not an established fact.
I never tried to present it as anything other than an opinion, that's why I included the word 'seems' in there. In the end, when it comes to whit is and is not evident to other people, all of us are speculating, unless we're solipsists.
It say's "amplifying the light signal", not "amplifying the light."

My interpretation is that there is a huge difference in the two meanings.
Sure, but what is that.
"amplifying the light signal " to me clearly means the signal from the sensor pixel generated by the light.

"amplifying the light." to me clearly means amplifying the light itself.
Personally, I wouldn't go with that interpretation. The 'signal from the pixel' isn't a 'light signal', it's an electronic signal, the value of which represents an amount of light. By amplifying the electronic signal you change the representation, but not the amount of light. Whilst you might be clear on the difference, from previous conversations I know that many aren't.

The interpretation depends on what you think the phrase 'light signal' means, and that's far from clear. I'd hazard a guess that if you looked in the wayback machine you'd find an earlier version that did say that the light was amplified, and the word 'signal' was added in response to a comment pointing out the error. I don't think it completely corrects it.
As you keep saying, "sometimes words have two meanings". And I say "context matters".
 
Perhaps each camera is different. With mine, images shot any higher than ISO 400 are going to be unacceptably noisy to me, and images shot at ISO 200 (my camera's lowest setting) have more clipped highlights than those shot at ISO 400, so my camera stays at ISO 400 all the time. In light too dim for handheld exposures at that ISO, I either mount a flash or put the camera away. Following this procedure, noise is never an issue, and I never have to think about ISO.
I'm sure they are.

But what was beaten into my head was that raising the ISO does NOT Raise the sensitivity of the sensor. What it does is increase the amplification of the photons that the sensor receives.
That's not quite correct but you are on the right track.
Yes, I misspoke. When a photon hits the sensor, it produces and electric charge and it is that charge which gets amplified.
That's sort of true, but not in the way that has anything to do with the operation of the ISO control. The first stage of the read chain is a MOSFET source follower which would normally be said to be a current amplifier. However, since it's driving a MOSFET gate with essentially infinite impedance, no 'current' flows, so it can be viewed as a charge amplifier (which is how Eric Fossum describes it). The 'dual gain' feature found in some mode sensors effectively changes the charge gain in one step somewhere in the ISO range, by changing the capacitance of the input of that charge amplifier. For cameras without the dual gain feature the charge gain does not change at all with the ISO setting. The output from that stage is a voltage (properly and electrical potential), the magnitude of which represents the amount of charge measured by the pixel. It is that voltage which maybe subjected to variable gain set by the ISO control, so it's not the 'charge' which gets amplified, it's the output voltage of the pixel. The charge is proportional to the number of photons collected. The reason for applying variable gain to the output voltage is to provide a better match with the ADC over a wide range of exposures. The ISO control is taken as an indicator of the likely exposure, and therefor is used to control the gain.
 
Being an advocate for incorrect explanations is your long-term stance.
You have mischaracterized my position
No, it's my informed opinion, nothing personal, just something your readers may want to know and take into account.

Advocating explanations based on light amplifications is crossing the line.
I don't believe I have used that phrase or advocated any such explanations.
Your response to Googling brings a lot of links saying something like "ISO - How much the available light is amplified" was exactly this:

One might also say that pressing in a car's gas pedal makes the engine turn faster. Actually, pressing on the pedal can cause the engine to slow down as it shifts into a higher gear.

The simplified explanations given to a novices are not always factually correct.

 
That this is a real thread.

Does anyone really now what they're arguing about?

Semantics of taking photos?
 
Yes, I misspoke. When a photon hits the sensor, it produces and electric charge and it is that charge which gets amplified.
That's sort of true, but not in the way that has anything to do with the operation of the ISO control. The first stage of the read chain is a MOSFET source follower which would normally be said to be a current amplifier. However, since it's driving a MOSFET gate with essentially infinite impedance, no 'current' flows, so it can be viewed as a charge amplifier (which is how Eric Fossum describes it). The 'dual gain' feature found in some mode sensors effectively changes the charge gain in one step somewhere in the ISO range, by changing the capacitance of the input of that charge amplifier. For cameras without the dual gain feature the charge gain does not change at all with the ISO setting. The output from that stage is a voltage (properly and electrical potential), the magnitude of which represents the amount of charge measured by the pixel. It is that voltage which maybe subjected to variable gain set by the ISO control, so it's not the 'charge' which gets amplified, it's the output voltage of the pixel. The charge is proportional to the number of photons collected. The reason for applying variable gain to the output voltage is to provide a better match with the ADC over a wide range of exposures. The ISO control is taken as an indicator of the likely exposure, and therefor is used to control the gain.
For the purposes of an explanation to a lay person, and their knowledge of photography, it's all that someone like me has to know.



No offense Bob, but when I explain to lay people how a boiler works, I don't have to describe how heat is absorbed by water, to create steam. It's enough for me to tell people the heat source causes water to boil. :-)
 
Being an advocate for incorrect explanations is your long-term stance.
You have mischaracterized my position
No, it's my informed opinion, nothing personal, just something your readers may want to know and take into account.

Advocating explanations based on light amplifications is crossing the line.
I don't believe I have used that phrase or advocated any such explanations.
Your response to Googling brings a lot of links saying something like "ISO - How much the available light is amplified" was exactly this:

One might also say that pressing in a car's gas pedal makes the engine turn faster. Actually, pressing on the pedal can cause the engine to slow down as it shifts into a higher gear.

The simplified explanations given to a novices are not always factually correct.
Yes. It is factually incorrect to say to a novice: "ISO - How much the available light is amplified."

I don't consider factually incorrect explanations to be a good thing. Perhaps I was mistaken in assuming that this did not need to be explicitly stated.
 
That's fine, but it appears not to be evident to others in the discussion...
I see your comment as simply your opinion and not an established fact.
I never tried to present it as anything other than an opinion, that's why I included the word 'seems' in there. In the end, when it comes to whit is and is not evident to other people, all of us are speculating, unless we're solipsists.
It say's "amplifying the light signal", not "amplifying the light."

My interpretation is that there is a huge difference in the two meanings.
Sure, but what is that.
"amplifying the light signal " to me clearly means the signal from the sensor pixel generated by the light.

"amplifying the light." to me clearly means amplifying the light itself.
Personally, I wouldn't go with that interpretation. The 'signal from the pixel' isn't a 'light signal', it's an electronic signal, the value of which represents an amount of light. By amplifying the electronic signal you change the representation, but not the amount of light. Whilst you might be clear on the difference, from previous conversations I know that many aren't.

The interpretation depends on what you think the phrase 'light signal' means, and that's far from clear. I'd hazard a guess that if you looked in the wayback machine you'd find an earlier version that did say that the light was amplified, and the word 'signal' was added in response to a comment pointing out the error. I don't think it completely corrects it.
As you keep saying, "sometimes words have two meanings".
It's a line from a song, and needs to be remebered.
And I say "context matters".
Yes, I quite agree. But I don't think that in this case context helps decipher what 'light signal' means. Or that the use of the word 'signal' helps clarify what was meant, especially since the quote has trimmed a bit of context off which makes it very clear that what was meant was precisely that light was being amplified. As was pointed out, the full sentence is: "The job of ISO is merely to amplify the light signal that the camera receives."

Add the trimmed context and it's clear that what is being talked about is the input to the camera, which is light. The word 'signal' is actually redundant to the meaning of the sentence. It means just the same whether the word 'signal' is there or not.

And in any case the whole discussion is redundant. This quote was raised (not by me) to counter Porky's spurious suggestion that 'no-one in their right mind' thinks that light is being amplified. Even if you want to count that example out, several others have been produced which show very clearly that several supposedly authoritative photography websites are indeed saying that in unambiguous terms.

Seriously, I'm more than tired of your constant attacks and barracking. If you have some sensible constructive criticism I'm more than happy to take that on board, since if you can help me say things more clearly, that is to everyone's benefit. But your criticism is not constructive - precisely the opposite. It serves no useful purpose, or at least none that I can see.

--
...because you know, sometimes words have two meanings.
 
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