Sony RX100 VI question

The rx100 works very well in P mode, no need to struggle in manual for most situations. You just set the exp. compensation, WB and let the camera decide the rest.

If stuff like the WB is off- like in your picture, you can correct it later.

Thank you for the response. Yea in my photo I took below I use Manual mode and my problem was I use a very high iso so when I edit the photo it looks a bit too grainy at times

I also have one more quesiton. Since I like to shoot sports and wrestling events would P mode still be the best option? I like action shots so I try and keep the shutter speed high

PlantExpress182 said:

I also have one more quesiton. Since I like to shoot sports and wrestling events would P mode still be the best option? I like action shots so I try and keep the shutter speed high

Click to expand...

Well for sports one might suggest Shutter Priority or a dedicated mode, because the camera has to guess how fast the subject is moving.

If you decide on the shutter speed, the camera will do the rest.

At default, in P mode my rx100 m1 would prefer a shutter speed of around 1/50, but for sports that's not enough. However it might be, you will get some noise and some blurry shots because the rx100 lens becomes darker as you zoom in, and a low lit space with people moving is a very difficult environment for the vast majority of cameras. The rx100 will struggle.

PlantExpress182 said:

Thank you for the response. Yea in my photo I took below I use Manual mode and my problem was I use a very high iso so when I edit the photo it looks a bit too grainy at times

Click to expand...

The camera does well in P mode for stills, not motion.

You will need to use S mode to force a speed to avoid blur. Let the camera deal with aperture and use Auto ISO, 2nd line down in ISO choices (top line is multi shot auto, not good for motion)

Treat it just like a music concert, look for bright light opportunities, signature moves/expressions, and look for poses without too much motion.

I get in early, take test shots, practice shooting others moving around there, view them enlarged to check for metering and motion blur

I figured out I only want a few good shots, so get ready for opportunities. Low light, I might shoot surprisingly slow 1/80th, when a decent slow pose with good light opportunity presents itself. If no opportunities, I might go up to 1/125th. If lots of light, I would go 1/250th. Entrances, announcements, posing on the ropes like you got, between bouts, ...

For me it is always "just fast enough". keeping ISO, after achieving blur free is my goal.

Focus: I would try Flexible Spot, Large size spot, leave it in the center.

Metering, I would try spot, standard size.

focus method: AF-C (bring extra batteries. Note: AF-C, works best for front to back movement, if moving side to side, you need to pan, keep the subject in the center, for both focus and metering.

Continuous shooting, low 3fps speed is enough for me, faster is too many to edit. first shot might have shutter press shake, 2nd and 3rd most likely will not.

Shoot wider than you need, zoom less, you can crop these 1" sensor images a lot, so your aperture will be wider when shooting by not zooming too much (watch the info line at the bottom of the lcd), and composition choices later when cropping are many.

rx100m6 setup suggestions (Fn menu is the key to using these)

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61386351

show us what you get.

--
Elliott

Thank you very much! Definitely very helpful information that I’ll look into now.



Heres another picture that I took that may need some editing

So what settings do you think this person used to get this photo? Especially this is what I’m trying to go for but I don’t know how there doing this. I know they have to zoom in but I wonder what ISO and shutter speed to use

S mode, you need to be in control of shutter speed.

Your assumption about zoom may be incorrect.

the image is only 750 x 918 pixels. It may be downsized from a larger pixel count, but in any case, it indicates a very large crop.

You can crop the images from these 1" sensors very aggressively, and, if shooting wider aperture, any method to keep ISO low, you will be cropping a cleaner image than if you zoomed in and narrowed the aperture/darkened the lens/raised the ISO

Meaning: they may have shot wide (not zoomed) to keep the aperture wider to allow fast enough shutter for motion, and get the lowest ISO that combo would give.

It is a game of 'just fast enough', wait for slower motion to shoot.

Metering: you need to practice to see which metering area size gives you good results, if anything, shoot a bit under-exposed (helps the camera while shooting), planning on lifting shadows later.

I use AEL lock frequently, probably would use that pre-set before or during a bout. Aim at any area, ceiling, floor, light fixture, that lightens or darkens as desired, lock that (I use left rocker). If wanting a change, release by rocker, aim somewhere else, brighter or darker, lock again. I think of it as Manual Metering.

Focus involves focus mode, focus area size, and focusing method.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62267519

I am pretty fast with Manual Focus, so I might use it, pre-set on the near ropes, (heads above the ropes, lots of dominant action there). Or depending on your seats, pre-focus at a distance they are from the ropes, close enough or far enough that when they are at that distance gives a good view of their heads, rather than the ropes passing thru their faces. Then you don't have to rely on the focus area finding your subject, you let your subject find your focus. Once you are pre-focused, you can bob and weave in and out a foot or two, matching their movement further or closer than your preset distance, i.e. set for 40 feet, move in or out to keep 40 feet from the subject as they move in or out. Same thing with a singer at a mic moving in or out.

Using focus magnification and focus peaking, from a distance at least 100 feet the other day at a concert, I could see the peaking on guitar strings, you would definitely see peaking on something in the ring, and because viewing magnified, see where their head was positioned, muscles flexed, if boxing fist positions, ...

If pre-focused, finishing the shot is instant, no final focus time needed, the lens is already mechanically pre-positioned. I split second can make a difference.

Using AF: I would not use tracking, because I would only shoot when motion was reduced. I would keep the focus area located in the center and follow the subject myself. I would try expanded spot, area size small enough so the box does not typically see the ropes, so the focus system sees the wrestlers, not the ropes. if so, go to a smaller spot area size. I would use AF-S, same reason: able to aim at the subject myself, while waiting for reduced motion and/or brighter light area of the ring or moment of bright light. AF-S, I might also pre-focus on someone in the middle of the ring, by half press and holding that, and then pan and shoot when they are in the middle, again bob and weave in/out as needed. Or, half-press pre-focus on the near ropes, which helps you with a closer subject.

I would shoot continuous slow speed 3fps (less to edit). Faster if you don't mind editing. 24fps takes 100 shots in 4 secs, and, it takes more battery to shoot and record them. You lose shooting time between sequences while the camera is writing to the card.

batteries, batteries, batteries,

--
Elliott

Thank you so much for the reply back that was very helpful. I just have a few questions if you don't mind. How were you able to tell it was only 750x918 pixels? And when you say it indicates a very large crop do you mean they basically shot not zoomed in, took the photo than while viewing the photo back on the camera edited it by cropping the image?

Also, the below photo was mine I took. My problem is i think I used too high of an ISO because it seems to grainy to me. I also shot on continuous mode. Thoughts and advice?

Here's another one I took but it looks like the focus unfortunately is on the ropes and the person in the background is kind of blurred/not focused on which annoyed me on some of the photos I took

ISO 10,000 is way too high for a 1” sensor.

Agreed. I think I was just getting nervous cause the lighting wasn't that good so I was trying to not make my pictures too dark because I had the Shutter speed pretty high as well

Photo Properties, EXIF Information

ANY photo on the forum, hover your pointer over the bottom left corner, the EXIF information appears, like the bottom left of your image.



now I can tell you:

zoom/aperture:

you zoomed enough that the aperture narrowed to f4.0 (m6 is already at f4.0 by 44mm). (watch the info line below the lcd as you zoom, see what aperture will be used.

Shutter Speed:

'just fast enough' is your friend, too fast, needlessly, is your enemy.

you used 1/800th, too fast of a speed, surprisingly that can freeze splashed water.

practice in S mode. go by a stop sign. find the slowest speed that shows no blur. try 1/50th as the car starts to roll. view it, blurred? move up to 1/80th, shoot again. let the car speed up some, try 1/100th, 1/125th, then walk down the sidewalk, car goes faster try 1/200th, 1/250th. Finally set yourself up far enough down the street that they are fast, 1/800th enough?, very fast, 1/1250? You will find you can get blur free at slower speeds that you thought. That is why I never use Sports mode on cameras, it often defaults too fast. BIF, bird in flight, now you are messing with speed, but even then, some shoot too fast than needed.

Motion varies, that's why I look for moments of minimum motion. Certainly the back flip needs fast, but perhaps only 1/400th. You can practice at the event. try 1/100th, view it, see if good? 1/200th? Or, go the other way. try 1/500th. Blur free? half press see what ISO will be used. change to 1/400th, half press, lower ISO? if so, try that. If ISO stays the same, you might as well go back to the faster speed.

ISO,

starts out saying Auto. half press the shutter, now the ISO that will be used will appear.

Here, due to f4.0 and 1/800th, the RESULTING ISO became 10,000, too high!

.................................................

The prior photo, by someone else, how did I know? I downloaded it. Hover over bottom left corner, the EXIF had been removed (often when you hover, EXIF missing, it says speed 1/10,000th. So, I had to download it to check it's properties.



.................

To download any image,

1. click view original, or view in gallery, (in gallery choose large or original size).

2. hover on the image, right mouse, pop-up menu, choose 'save as'.



After downloaded, hover your mouse over the large icon, info will pop up



IF it doesn't pop up, or, to know all properties, in windows, right mouse to pop up menu, bottom, Properties, choose Details tab



The properties are:



Because the EXIF was stripped out, all I know is that it is only 750 x 918 pixels.

this is the properties when the EXIF is still embedded in the imsage



lots more info when you scroll up and down while active.

....................................

Downsized?

Often, to post an image, or email it to someone, or to keep someone who downloads it from having a full resolution of their image, people make a separate downsized version. That means, 750 x 918 could be after downsizing. But, if this started as a 20mp image, nobody (in their right mind) would have downsized it that much, so, I believe it was a wide aperture, and aggressive crop of a cleaner image than if zoomed.

The screenshots I posted are from my 'desktop images' folder, I download images I see here and view them large as desktop images, both to evaluate, make cropping suggestions, and to simply enjoy.

--
Elliott

PlantExpress182 said:

Agreed. I think I was just getting nervous cause the lighting wasn't that good so I was trying to not make my pictures too dark because I had the Shutter speed pretty high as well

Click to expand...

1/400 sec probably would have been enough.

Thank you so much for the advice here and it will definitely help me out in the future here. I'm actually going to another event on the 30th so I'll have sometime to practice.

I have another question if you don't mind me asking. Is there a way after taking the photo to crop and edit on the camera? Or maybe the person transferred to there phone and did it on an app?

I also agree that I used too high on a shutter speed. I think maybe I should try shooting with no zoom to little and after I take the photo crop the image to make it look like I was closer to the action?

Agreed. I'm still getting used to doing manual settings because I used to also just do auto everything

These are a few they took from an event and they were probably sitting middle/towards the back on the entrance aisle way

PlantExpress182 said:

Thank you so much for the advice here and it will definitely help me out in the future here. I'm actually going to another event on the 30th so I'll have sometime to practice.

I have another question if you don't mind me asking. Is there a way after taking the photo to crop and edit on the camera? Or maybe the person transferred to there phone and did it on an app?

I also agree that I used too high on a shutter speed. I think maybe I should try shooting with no zoom to little and after I take the photo crop the image to make it look like I was closer to the action?

Click to expand...

I do all cropping and any processing on my 27" monitor in my office. Just put the memory card in a card reader, copy everything to your computer, then edit, keep original, 'save a copy' or 'save as', and pay attention to where the software puts the copies.

What editing software do you use or recommend?