Reading mode: Light Dark

New build - comments?

Go to last post
Yeah, I'd say get at least a GTX 1060. But apparently your video card needs are less than 99% of all video card buyers so I guess you know what you're doing :-)
 
AJ -I understand but what I didn't say was I have 2 HDD's, an SSD, an optical drive, and a multi-function card reader that I will transfer from my current system to the new one. So I figured the extra watts just might come in handy.
 
Birk Binnard said:
My plan is to restore my current boot drive to the new SSD and hope I don't have to spend hours on the phone with Microsoft getting the system to be authorized/authenticated.
Click to expand...
If you're using a Microsoft account and your (non OEM) license is tied to it, it'll transfer to your new hardware, no problem. I've done 3 builds (3 different motherboards) and have not had any activation issues.

On the other hand if you've got an OEM license, yeah, you'll need to purchase a new copy.
 
Birk Binnard said:
AJ -I understand but what I didn't say was I have 2 HDD's, an SSD, an optical drive, and a multi-function card reader that I will transfer from my current system to the new one. So I figured the extra watts just might come in handy.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I see Your idea. However, a good PSU with lower power-rating is always better (in the sense of reliability and protective circuity) than a cheapo high-power one. So for the sake of debunking some myths, lets do the maths:

HDDs are specified around 6-10 Watt max in read-write, so lets estimate 25 Watt peak during spinup - most systembuilders use 10W in their estimations. SSDs use far less, so lets say a generous 10W. Same for the optical drive and the SD reader (if SD-readers would actually use 10W, our cameras would run out of battery much faster). Makes a whooping 80 Watts as an upper estimate for the drives.

Staying with the upper estimate, lets say 130 Watt peak draw for the CPU (that's twice the TDP), and the motherboard around 50 Watts. The GTX 1030 has a TDP of 30W, so lets assume 60W peak.

HDD -25 W*2

SSD, SD and Optical - 10 W*3

MB - 50 W

CPU - 130 W

GPU - 60 Watt

Sum: 320 W. Thus, even when assuming twice the power draw for each component in Your build, Your peaks should still be well below 400 W. If You now also consider that a good PSU can mitigate impulses of at least 1.5 times its specified power, You can carelessly use a 450 W PSU even with a much bigger GPU.
 
Last edited:
Birk Binnard said:
bmoag said:
The 1030 is a waste of money vis a vis Intel Graphics on the CPU which will drive even a 4k monitor.
Click to expand...
That's interesting. I have 2 monitors, one of which is 4K (Primary) and on that is 1980 x 1200 (Secondary). I'm not clear on whether or not the Intel graphics built in to the CPU can support both monitors at the same time.
Birk Binnard said:
The minimum GPU that adds value is an nVidia 1050 or AMD 550 but at current sale prices the AMD 580 (less than $200) may be the most cost effective GPU.

Believe it or not it is quite possible that your plan to simply boot with your current operating system will update itself with appropriate drivers and is well worth trying. I presume you have researched the optimal way do do it. You have nothing to lose by trying but I would image (e.g. the free version of Macrium) or clone that drive first as the update process can render the drive unbootable if something goes south.
Click to expand...
My plan is to make a Macrium image of my existing boot drive and restore it to the new system's SSD. I know I can do a clean install but I will try very hard not to do that.
Birk Binnard said:
I have known several people who have succeeded at what you propose with the version of Win 10 installed being from the free upgrade MS offered when they first came out with Win 10. Admittedly I do not know if these were OEM copies of Win 7/8 that had been upgraded to Win 10, or if that makes any difference.
Click to expand...
My Win10 was an in place upgrade from 8.1 which was an in place upgrade from 7. I don't remember of my Win7 was OEM or not.
Click to expand...
The i7's GPU will support up to 3 monitors, the big thing is just getting a motherboard that will.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...n-intel-processors/intel-hd-graphics-630.html

I'd just look a bit more in depth to make sure that there are no resolution restrictions when working with multiple displays.
 
Last edited:
Birk Binnard said:
AJ -I understand but what I didn't say was I have 2 HDD's, an SSD, an optical drive, and a multi-function card reader that I will transfer from my current system to the new one. So I figured the extra watts just might come in handy.
Click to expand...
There's absolutely nothing wrong with getting a 750 watt PS. Nothing other than someone's opinion on what they "think" you need.

I have 3 systems - two are powered by 1000 watt PS, the other is powered by an 850. My electricity bill hasn't gone up significantly even when running all three systems at the same time. This is a non issue based on the lore of yesteryear.

And if you get a modular power supply, wattage may determine the number of cables that come with it.
 
Birk Binnard said:
Austinian said:
Looking at pictures of the motherboard, the slots look like they want regular 288-pin DIMMs rather than the 260-pin SODIMMs that usually go in laptops and AIO PCs.

And this ASUS PRIME B360M-A LGA1151 (300 Series) DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 mATX Motherboard I see specifies 288-pin memory:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119086#

I'm not certain, since I can't see your board in person, but I'd suggest you check just to be sure.
Click to expand...
Thanks for pointing that out - you are correct. So I switched to 2 Patriot Viper Elite Series DDR4 8GB sticks.
Click to expand...
Keep in mind that DIMM sticks are best bought as a pre-tested set. So, if you want 16GB, you should buy a 2x8 set of sticks that are guaranteed to be compatible with each other (compatible at the same memory timings). Your newegg link isn't working for me so I can't see exactly what you've selected there.
 
That's very helpful info sygnus - thanks. I think I'll try the build without the video card and see how it works. If necessary I can always pull my current GTX750 and install it in the new build.
 
Actually I'm getting all the parts from Amazon. The 2 dimms are sold as a pair so I assume they will work OK together. The info at Amazon says they can be easily over clocked - which I don't plan on doing any time soon.
 
A J Fresnel said:
Birk Binnard said:
AJ -I understand but what I didn't say was I have 2 HDD's, an SSD, an optical drive, and a multi-function card reader that I will transfer from my current system to the new one. So I figured the extra watts just might come in handy.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I see Your idea. However, a good PSU with lower power-rating is always better (in the sense of reliability and protective circuity) than a cheapo high-power one. So for the sake of debunking some myths, lets do the maths:

HDDs are specified around 6-10 Watt max in read-write, so lets estimate 25 Watt peak during spinup - most systembuilders use 10W in their estimations. SSDs use far less, so lets say a generous 10W. Same for the optical drive and the SD reader (if SD-readers would actually use 10W, our cameras would run out of battery much faster). Makes a whooping 80 Watts as an upper estimate for the drives.

Staying with the upper estimate, lets say 130 Watt peak draw for the CPU (that's twice the TDP), and the motherboard around 50 Watts. The GTX 1030 has a TDP of 30W, so lets assume 60W peak.

HDD -25 W*2

SSD, SD and Optical - 10 W*3

MB - 50 W

CPU - 130 W

GPU - 60 Watt

Sum: 320 W. Thus, even when assuming twice the power draw for each component in Your build, Your peaks should still be well below 400 W. If You now also consider that a good PSU can mitigate impulses of at least 1.5 times its specified power, You can carelessly use a 450 W PSU even with a much bigger GPU.
Click to expand...
That's a very good analysis - thanks. I did find a nice 450 watt PS that was an Amazon Choice, but it looked like it lacked sufficient modular cables for my full configuration. So I think I'll stick with the 750.
 
Birk Binnard said:
That's a very good analysis - thanks. I did find a nice 450 watt PS that was an Amazon Choice, but it looked like it lacked sufficient modular cables for my full configuration. So I think I'll stick with the 750.
Click to expand...
Before you buy a PSU, I'd look around for technical reviews of the models you're considering. Quality varies, and the health of the entire system depends on the PSU.

Sites like jonnyguru, Anandtech, Tom's Hardware, and others are good places to look for such reviews.
 
Birk Binnard said:
That's very helpful info sygnus - thanks. I think I'll try the build without the video card and see how it works. If necessary I can always pull my current GTX750 and install it in the new build.
Click to expand...
Honestly, I'd use my (a) dedicated card over Intel's GPU, but that's completely up to you.

Good luck
 
Birk Binnard said:
That's a very good analysis - thanks. I did find a nice 450 watt PS that was an Amazon Choice, but it looked like it lacked sufficient modular cables for my full configuration. So I think I'll stick with the 750.
Click to expand...
I think that's a wise decision.
Austinian said:
Before you buy a PSU, I'd look around for technical reviews of the models you're considering. Quality varies, and the health of the entire system depends on the PSU.

Sites like jonnyguru, Anandtech, Tom's Hardware, and others are good places to look for such reviews.
Click to expand...
I will however echo Austinian's thoughts about quality though. NEVER ever skimp or a power supply!!! And both jonnyguru and AnandTech are good sources for PS reviews.

Peace:)
 
Birk Binnard said:
That's very helpful info sygnus - thanks. I think I'll try the build without the video card and see how it works. If necessary I can always pull my current GTX750 and install it in the new build.
Click to expand...
Your original choice of a GT 1030 was fine. Sure it's not a 3D gaming card, but for 2D work it's fine.
 
Birk Binnard said:
Actually I'm getting all the parts from Amazon. The 2 dimms are sold as a pair so I assume they will work OK together. The info at Amazon says they can be easily over clocked - which I don't plan on doing any time soon.
Click to expand...
Then you're good on that front.
 
I used the commands slmgr /dlv and slmgr /dli to show the status of my current Windows license. Both of them came back saying mine is Retail. So it looks like that is one issue I won't have to deal with.
 
Birk Binnard said:
I used the commands slmgr /dlv and slmgr /dli to show the status of my current Windows license. Both of them came back saying mine is Retail. So it looks like that is one issue I won't have to deal with.
Click to expand...
Excellent! You may still have to contact Microsoft for reactivation (I did for my last new build) but having a retail license should make the process much easier.
 
If the OP has a digital license, there's no need to contact Microsoft unless there's an issue elsewhere....

Windows 10 activated with a digital license
Windows 10 activated with a digital license

I've changed hardware a few times to include motherboard CPU, RAM, and main OS drive all at the same time, and still never had to call Microsoft to activate when using my Microsoft Account. Not sure how a Local Account (Non - MS Account) works though.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top