blurry images, awful out-of-focus rendering

If you're concerned your lens may have a decentered or tilted element(s) then you'll need to carefully shoot a resolution chart under controlled conditions as others have said. You can accomplish the same using newspapers taped to a flat vertical surface but a good chart will make it much easier to see if a problem exists. I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions if you're truly interested.

Bob
You certainly could do that, Bob, however, I might suggest that your time and deep expertise in this area is probably better spent with people who genuinely want help rather than those wanting to waste everyone's time simply arguing points.

--
Jerry-Astro
Fujifilm X Forum Co-Mod
 
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I enterely share your comments and opinions related to what has been posted as awful...
 
Agree 100% with you

Bob
 
If you're concerned your lens may have a decentered or tilted element(s) then you'll need to carefully shoot a resolution chart under controlled conditions as others have said. You can accomplish the same using newspapers taped to a flat vertical surface but a good chart will make it much easier to see if a problem exists. I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions if you're truly interested.

Bob
You certainly could do that, Bob, however, I might suggest that your time and deep expertise in this area is probably better spent with people who genuinely want help rather than those wanting to waste everyone's time simply arguing points.
Hi Jerry and yes, I got that impression too and that is why I qualified my response with "truly interested".
 
Sir, I appreciate you're trying to be helpful, but if you don't see an issue in this picture, I'm not sure if you're the right one to hold lectures.

BTW 1) this lens may be sold as a kit with the camera, but it is Fuji's top range for zooms (at least, as long as Fuji doesn't relveal their secret what "red badge" is supposed to mean)

BTW 2) you may argue about the distance of the blurry branch over the sharp flower, but your argument that this is due to soft corners is just bogus. The sharp flower is equally far off center as the branch above it.
What a cheeky answer.

I always love these posts when people on a discussion forum pose in the guise of a question what is always going to be in their mind really an irrefutable statement that their kit is bad and get huffy puffy and try to control the answers in the thread when anyone does refute this. Excellent entertainment value.

I did get the impression that you were complaining also about the out of focus and expecting the distant view to be in focus and the close focus on such fussy subject matter is always going to be difficult to get right as depth of field is so shallow.

Probably a 1" or smaller compact in your pocket would be much better as it would handle the depth of field needed much better.
 
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[snip] the problem is, that some answers are neither helpful nore constructive, simply because the reader didn't bother to read the entire post. Some just watch at the posted picture and start to spread their wisdom.

I assume you are especially referring to my answer to Bill Ferris. His answer is not just an example of not having read the entre post, it's also factually wrong (10 ft distance? Corner softness!?) and hysterically weird (unsteady air!). And he tries to teach DOF, while even the thread header suggests that missing DOF isn't the issue. You are right, there might be people being more patient than me, but I'm doing hard keep being respectful in such cases. Guilty.
The comments in my original response are based on viewing and analysing the one sample photo provided. As that is the only direct evidence offered in support of your claim that some combination of the camera, lens or image processing software is producing flawed images, it just made sense to me to go back to the original image and see for myself if any of those problems are indicated. You know where I stand on that question.

I've been shooting with an X-T20 and 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS since April 2017. Here, are a few samples:

2c19ddf0c0004e48be67e0f3a6ca2f44.jpg

304db9675b5d44fb8e0549b64329b3ff.jpg

bea4ad3094064631a1c966da472fb5db.jpg

4e5de6743e334b2d893843241eba28bf.jpg

Establishing DOF of test images is, of course, essential to evaluating the sharpness of a lens. If an element in a composition lies outside the range within which objects should appear to be in focus, that element cannot be used as a measure of critical sharpness or resolution of the lens.

My guesstimate on your distance from the flower where focus was set was an educated guess based on the angle of view at 55mm, the subject and the location of the focal plane in the photograph. If you were substantially farther than 10-feet from the flower that served as the focal point, what was the distance? With that, the focal length, f-stop and sensor format, it's easy to use an online DOF calculator to determine the actual depth of field.

With respect to the 18-55mm, it's a fine lens. It's also far from the best lens Fuji makes. My copy shows fairly obvious (viewed at 100%) softness at the sides and corners. The crop you made and attached with your first post was taken from the far left side of the image. It shows the kind and degree of softness I'm used to seeing. I called afternoon to that in my initial response.

As for the bokeh (the quality of defocused blur) in the one sample image provided, it's not at all unlike what I've seen in images made with my copy of the 18-55 and in other lenses I own. Whether or not you agree with my interpretation of what factors are the cause of that bokeh, the bottom line point I would make is that under more favorable conditions and in a composition that maximizes a lens' ability to create separation, the resulting bokeh can be much more pleasing.

I (and others) have suggested simple setups you could photograph to better understand the optical characteristics of your new camera and lens. I suggested a setup I have use with just about every lens or digital camera I've owned. It's an excuse to make some photos with new kit and the resulting images are actually informative.

The one observation I'll make about your response, is that I'm surprised by it. Personally, I'd be relieved to hear even one experienced photographer say a camera or lens I had concerns about was actually performing to spec. I'd be all over doing some simple followup testing to confirm (or refute) that. You seem seem deeply invested in wanting your new gear to be flawed. That I don't get.

--
Bill Ferris Photography
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[snip] the problem is, that some answers are neither helpful nore constructive, simply because the reader didn't bother to read the entire post. Some just watch at the posted picture and start to spread their wisdom.

I assume you are especially referring to my answer to Bill Ferris. His answer is not just an example of not having read the entre post, it's also factually wrong (10 ft distance? Corner softness!?) and hysterically weird (unsteady air!). And he tries to teach DOF, while even the thread header suggests that missing DOF isn't the issue. You are right, there might be people being more patient than me, but I'm doing hard keep being respectful in such cases. Guilty.
The comments in my original response are based on viewing and analysing the one sample photo provided. As that is the only direct evidence offered in support of your claim that some combination of the camera, lens or image processing software is producing flawed images, it just made sense to me to go back to the original image and see for myself if any of those problems are indicated. You know where I stand on that question.

I've been shooting with an X-T20 and 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS since April 2017. Here, are a few samples:

2c19ddf0c0004e48be67e0f3a6ca2f44.jpg

304db9675b5d44fb8e0549b64329b3ff.jpg

bea4ad3094064631a1c966da472fb5db.jpg

4e5de6743e334b2d893843241eba28bf.jpg

Establishing DOF of test images is, of course, essential to evaluating the sharpness of a lens. If an element in a composition lies outside the range within which objects should appear to be in focus, that element cannot be used as a measure of critical sharpness or resolution of the lens.

My guesstimate on your distance from the flower where focus was set was an educated guess based on the angle of view at 55mm, the subject and the location of the focal plane in the photograph. If you were substantially farther than 10-feet from the flower that served as the focal point, what was the distance? With that, the focal length, f-stop and sensor format, it's easy to use an online DOF calculator to determine the actual depth of field.

With respect to the 18-55mm, it's a fine lens. It's also far from the best lens Fuji makes. My copy shows fairly obvious (viewed at 100%) softness at the sides and corners. The crop you made and attached with your first post was taken from the far left side of the image. It shows the kind and degree of softness I'm used to seeing. I called afternoon to that in my initial response.

As for the bokeh (the quality of defocused blur) in the one sample image provided, it's not at all unlike what I've seen in images made with my copy of the 18-55 and in other lenses I own. Whether or not you agree with my interpretation of what factors are the cause of that bokeh, the bottom line point I would make is that under more favorable conditions and in a composition that maximizes a lens' ability to create separation, the resulting bokeh can be much more pleasing.

I (and others) have suggested simple setups you could photograph to better understand the optical characteristics of your new camera and lens. I suggested a setup I have use with just about every lens or digital camera I've owned. It's an excuse to make some photos with new kit and the resulting images are actually informative.

The one observation I'll make about your response, is that I'm surprised by it. Personally, I'd be relieved to hear even one experienced photographer say a camera or lens I had concerns about was actually performing to spec. I'd be all over doing some simple followup testing to confirm (or refute) that. You seem seem deeply invested in wanting your new gear to be flawed. That I don't get.
I agree Bill and some very nice images. The 18-55 punches well above it's weight class IMHO.

We've been in the same place but I need to return with the 10-24. :-D

Bob







--
 
[snip] the problem is, that some answers are neither helpful nore constructive, simply because the reader didn't bother to read the entire post. Some just watch at the posted picture and start to spread their wisdom.

I assume you are especially referring to my answer to Bill Ferris. His answer is not just an example of not having read the entre post, it's also factually wrong (10 ft distance? Corner softness!?) and hysterically weird (unsteady air!). And he tries to teach DOF, while even the thread header suggests that missing DOF isn't the issue. You are right, there might be people being more patient than me, but I'm doing hard keep being respectful in such cases. Guilty.
The comments in my original response are based on viewing and analysing the one sample photo provided. As that is the only direct evidence offered in support of your claim that some combination of the camera, lens or image processing software is producing flawed images, it just made sense to me to go back to the original image and see for myself if any of those problems are indicated. You know where I stand on that question.

I've been shooting with an X-T20 and 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS since April 2017. Here, are a few samples:

2c19ddf0c0004e48be67e0f3a6ca2f44.jpg

304db9675b5d44fb8e0549b64329b3ff.jpg

bea4ad3094064631a1c966da472fb5db.jpg

4e5de6743e334b2d893843241eba28bf.jpg

Establishing DOF of test images is, of course, essential to evaluating the sharpness of a lens. If an element in a composition lies outside the range within which objects should appear to be in focus, that element cannot be used as a measure of critical sharpness or resolution of the lens.

My guesstimate on your distance from the flower where focus was set was an educated guess based on the angle of view at 55mm, the subject and the location of the focal plane in the photograph. If you were substantially farther than 10-feet from the flower that served as the focal point, what was the distance? With that, the focal length, f-stop and sensor format, it's easy to use an online DOF calculator to determine the actual depth of field.

With respect to the 18-55mm, it's a fine lens. It's also far from the best lens Fuji makes. My copy shows fairly obvious (viewed at 100%) softness at the sides and corners. The crop you made and attached with your first post was taken from the far left side of the image. It shows the kind and degree of softness I'm used to seeing. I called afternoon to that in my initial response.

As for the bokeh (the quality of defocused blur) in the one sample image provided, it's not at all unlike what I've seen in images made with my copy of the 18-55 and in other lenses I own. Whether or not you agree with my interpretation of what factors are the cause of that bokeh, the bottom line point I would make is that under more favorable conditions and in a composition that maximizes a lens' ability to create separation, the resulting bokeh can be much more pleasing.

I (and others) have suggested simple setups you could photograph to better understand the optical characteristics of your new camera and lens. I suggested a setup I have use with just about every lens or digital camera I've owned. It's an excuse to make some photos with new kit and the resulting images are actually informative.

The one observation I'll make about your response, is that I'm surprised by it. Personally, I'd be relieved to hear even one experienced photographer say a camera or lens I had concerns about was actually performing to spec. I'd be all over doing some simple followup testing to confirm (or refute) that. You seem seem deeply invested in wanting your new gear to be flawed. That I don't get.
"he one observation I'll make about your response, is that I'm surprised by it. Personally, I'd be relieved to hear even one experienced photographer say a camera or lens I had concerns about was actually performing to spec. I'd be all over doing some simple followup testing to confirm (or refute) that. You seem seem deeply invested in wanting your new gear to be flawed. That I don't get."

Yup, it's almost as if the OP had packed the gear up and was ready to return it/exchange it, and came on here thinking they would just get lots of people saying "yup, faulty" to bolster their case. If one's mind is so made up, why come on here asking about it at all?

--
"When words become unclear, I shall focus with photographs. When images become inadequate, I shall be content with silence." Ansel Adams.
 
As someone who has extensively tested every lens he's bought for the past 40 years I will say that from the images you posted your lens appears normal.

Bob
Wait that's normal??

I might need to cancel my x-t3.
 
Sir, I appreciate you're trying to be helpful, but if you don't see an issue in this picture, I'm not sure if you're the right one to hold lectures.

BTW 1) this lens may be sold as a kit with the camera, but it is Fuji's top range for zooms (at least, as long as Fuji doesn't relveal their secret what "red badge" is supposed to mean)

BTW 2) you may argue about the distance of the blurry branch over the sharp flower, but your argument that this is due to soft corners is just bogus. The sharp flower is equally far off center as the branch above it.
Your sample shows how the "bokeh" is rather nervous in such a photo at f 5,6 Nothing else can be said - if you do not seriously take a photo that shows if there is really a problem like some lens element misaligned /descenter or something else

That image of sunflowers in a field is perhaps the worst test shot. Perhaps there is an issue , but it is impossible to seriously judge it. Think about this. Take a photo of a bookshelf so that there is no oblique angle , use flash to prevent motion blur. Easy to see IF there is softness in some parts. A straight textured wall is also easy to find. Or whatever - but not that field.

Bokeh quality must be tested in a different way (f 2,8-3,5) - and a suitable subject , not a field. You must first understand what bokeh is. With a zoom at f5,6 it is something else.

I recommend that you read a lens test from Optical limits (former PhotoZone) - there are some samples too..

I have used 18-55 for 5 years and also many other lenses and some cameras - it is one of the best zooms i have ever used. Perhaps i have a "good copy"

IF you test something you must think more carefully. Even scientifically - what are you testing. Your image was not testing anything. And if someone lectures it might be a good idea to read the text again...
 
As someone who has extensively tested every lens he's bought for the past 40 years I will say that from the images you posted your lens appears normal.

Bob
Wait that's normal??

I might need to cancel my x-t3.
I've only shot Fuji for the past 4 years and the problems experienced (and therefore lack of confidence and suspicions) was with Canon and especially their L zooms. Canon's upped their QC in recent years but in the film and early digital era it seemed at times non-existent.

All's good. ;-)
 
I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions if you're truly interested.

Bob
Thanks for your generous offer Bob!

As Jerry says - I'm indeed not truly interested. But not because of why Jerry thinks ;-)

I have tested lenses since years. See below one of the charts I used back then, now laying around in the basement. Obviously nobody here can know this. I didn't consider it important and also, as experience shows, people tend not to read the entire post.

b44345e59a0444ea92cae5c5a32e97d2.jpg

There are two reasons why I'm not interested:

- I'm kind of over it. I know about the huge deviation especially zoom lenses have. So I don't want to waste my time. I trust that I'd discover a truly faulty lens without photographing brick walls or charts. Anything else just drives me mad, thinking I might have a bad copy. It was also this forum here which tought me to better go out and take pictures. (Jerry as Mod, if he hadn't blocked me, might have been able to check how long I'm member of this forum. It must be well over 10 years)

- seriously - all I wanted was, to find out if the issue is a general one. This is what forums are about, so manufacturers can't say any longer "whow, this is the first time one ever had this problem". I imagined simple yes or no answers.
I switched to Fuji recently after years of Canon D-SLRs, crop and FF (EOS 6D on sale right now). I think the Fuji 18-55 is comparable in quality to the Canon 24-105 f4 L, but even with much worse lenses like the EF-S 17-85mm 4.0–5.6 IS USM I have never seen anything close to this Fuji "bokeh". At no aperture, no distance and at no shooting situation.

I have to confess I under estimated the people's motivation to discuss possible capturing issues with my example picture. It was simply not meant for that. At a certain point of this thread I started looking for better examples, but at each picture I found many potential for discussions.
Now I think this thread is at a stage where posting further pictures wouldn't make much sense. My bad maybe. Maybe some are just too sensitive. Who knows.

Thanks for your offer anyway ;-)

reach
 
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I’ll ask again in case you didn’t see my post, did you rule out the lens? And by that I mean did you take other photographs using a different lens that you rented/borrowed to test? If you haven’t I would try that first before sending in your camera for repair because if it’s the lens Fuji will just send you back the camera saying there’s nothing wrong with it and you’ll be even more frustrated. And Jerry the mod bought a Fuji 10-24 lens that was defective a short while ago so defective lenses happens sometimes. Anyway, it’s my humble 2 cents.
Hmm, there seem to be people here who find it rude to refer people to the original post, so I'll repeat if for you ;-)

> reach075 wrote:
> It would make sense to experiment with a different lens, best a prime, but I don't have one at hand, so I first ask the community.

But the second part of your message shows me that there is quite a misunderstanding: I said "...send the brand new camera in for repair". Saying that I meant the whole kit! Camera plus Lens. In my head this was always one entity. Bought it together in one box.

The dealer discussed the issue with Fuji and they indeed want to see the kit, not just one piece of it. Hope this clarifies.
 
I’ll ask again in case you didn’t see my post, did you rule out the lens? And by that I mean did you take other photographs using a different lens that you rented/borrowed to test? If you haven’t I would try that first before sending in your camera for repair because if it’s the lens Fuji will just send you back the camera saying there’s nothing wrong with it and you’ll be even more frustrated. And Jerry the mod bought a Fuji 10-24 lens that was defective a short while ago so defective lenses happens sometimes. Anyway, it’s my humble 2 cents.
Hmm, there seem to be people here who find it rude to refer people to the original post, so I'll repeat if for you ;-)

> reach075 wrote:
> It would make sense to experiment with a different lens, best a prime, but I don't have one at hand, so I first ask the community.

But the second part of your message shows me that there is quite a misunderstanding: I said "...send the brand new camera in for repair". Saying that I meant the whole kit! Camera plus Lens. In my head this was always one entity. Bought it together in one box.

The dealer discussed the issue with Fuji and they indeed want to see the kit, not just one piece of it. Hope this clarifies.
I guess I missed the part about a different lens. Well, send in the whole kit and be done with it since you can’t rent one for some reason.
 
so. you think it's bad, and ppl say it isn't

Just send it back, or take it back to the store you purchased from.

BUT really, as ppl are suggesting set in on a tripod with still objects at approximately the same distance change the F number and make multiple pictures.

If you notice the "blurry flower" you picked out the one below it is so sharp it is crying out for attention, as a comparison. It's in the same image.

The 5.6 F number would do this, as stated, approx a 2 ft depth of field.
 
I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions if you're truly interested.

Bob
Thanks for your generous offer Bob!

As Jerry says - I'm indeed not truly interested. But not because of why Jerry thinks ;-)

I have tested lenses since years. See below one of the charts I used back then, now laying around in the basement. Obviously nobody here can know this. I didn't consider it important and also, as experience shows, people tend not to read the entire post.

b44345e59a0444ea92cae5c5a32e97d2.jpg

There are two reasons why I'm not interested:

- I'm kind of over it. I know about the huge deviation especially zoom lenses have. So I don't want to waste my time. I trust that I'd discover a truly faulty lens without photographing brick walls or charts. Anything else just drives me mad, thinking I might have a bad copy. It was also this forum here which tought me to better go out and take pictures. (Jerry as Mod, if he hadn't blocked me, might have been able to check how long I'm member of this forum. It must be well over 10 years)

- seriously - all I wanted was, to find out if the issue is a general one. This is what forums are about, so manufacturers can't say any longer "whow, this is the first time one ever had this problem". I imagined simple yes or no answers.
I switched to Fuji recently after years of Canon D-SLRs, crop and FF (EOS 6D on sale right now). I think the Fuji 18-55 is comparable in quality to the Canon 24-105 f4 L, but even with much worse lenses like the EF-S 17-85mm 4.0–5.6 IS USM I have never seen anything close to this Fuji "bokeh". At no aperture, no distance and at no shooting situation.

I have to confess I under estimated the people's motivation to discuss possible capturing issues with my example picture. It was simply not meant for that. At a certain point of this thread I started looking for better examples, but at each picture I found many potential for discussions.
Now I think this thread is at a stage where posting further pictures wouldn't make much sense. My bad maybe. Maybe some are just too sensitive. Who knows.

Thanks for your offer anyway ;-)

reach


Bokeh on Fuji's 18-55 (and 55-200, just to warn you) is not good. It's nervous and is of "onion ring" type. In some situatios bokeh is acceptable and in others it's annoying. I also have this lens and your photo is "normal" for this lens, unfortunately. In my opinion, 18-55 and 55-200 lenses are overrated. Yes, they are sharp and contrasty, well corrected for optical abberations but with a cost in bokeh department. For example, I'd rate Nikon's kit lens (18-55 or older 18-70) better than Fuji's. Not so sharp but bokeh is better.

Fuji's top of the range lenses are primes - try 16 1.4, 23 1.4, 35 1.4, 56 1.2, 90 2.0 and you will get everything perfect - sharpness & bokeh.
 
I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions if you're truly interested.

Bob
Thanks for your generous offer Bob!

As Jerry says - I'm indeed not truly interested. But not because of why Jerry thinks ;-)

I have tested lenses since years. See below one of the charts I used back then, now laying around in the basement. Obviously nobody here can know this. I didn't consider it important and also, as experience shows, people tend not to read the entire post.

b44345e59a0444ea92cae5c5a32e97d2.jpg

There are two reasons why I'm not interested:

- I'm kind of over it. I know about the huge deviation especially zoom lenses have. So I don't want to waste my time. I trust that I'd discover a truly faulty lens without photographing brick walls or charts. Anything else just drives me mad, thinking I might have a bad copy. It was also this forum here which tought me to better go out and take pictures. (Jerry as Mod, if he hadn't blocked me, might have been able to check how long I'm member of this forum. It must be well over 10 years)

- seriously - all I wanted was, to find out if the issue is a general one. This is what forums are about, so manufacturers can't say any longer "whow, this is the first time one ever had this problem". I imagined simple yes or no answers.
I switched to Fuji recently after years of Canon D-SLRs, crop and FF (EOS 6D on sale right now). I think the Fuji 18-55 is comparable in quality to the Canon 24-105 f4 L, but even with much worse lenses like the EF-S 17-85mm 4.0–5.6 IS USM I have never seen anything close to this Fuji "bokeh". At no aperture, no distance and at no shooting situation.

I have to confess I under estimated the people's motivation to discuss possible capturing issues with my example picture. It was simply not meant for that. At a certain point of this thread I started looking for better examples, but at each picture I found many potential for discussions.
Now I think this thread is at a stage where posting further pictures wouldn't make much sense. My bad maybe. Maybe some are just too sensitive. Who knows.

Thanks for your offer anyway ;-)

reach
Bokeh on Fuji's 18-55 (and 55-200, just to warn you) is not good. It's nervous and is of "onion ring" type. In some situatios bokeh is acceptable and in others it's annoying. I also have this lens and your photo is "normal" for this lens, unfortunately. In my opinion, 18-55 and 55-200 lenses are overrated. Yes, they are sharp and contrasty, well corrected for optical abberations but with a cost in bokeh department. For example, I'd rate Nikon's kit lens (18-55 or older 18-70) better than Fuji's. Not so sharp but bokeh is better.

Fuji's top of the range lenses are primes - try 16 1.4, 23 1.4, 35 1.4, 56 1.2, 90 2.0 and you will get everything perfect - sharpness & bokeh.
It’s true that the 18-55 isn’t known for bokeh but I’m sorry, the picture is definitely without a doubt NOT “normal” for that lens. Maybe you had a bad copy.

--
After all is said and done and your photo is hanging on the wall, no one is going to know or care what camera, lens, or what post processing you used. All they care about is if the image moves them.
 
I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions if you're truly interested.

Bob
Thanks for your generous offer Bob!

As Jerry says - I'm indeed not truly interested. But not because of why Jerry thinks ;-)

I have tested lenses since years. See below one of the charts I used back then, now laying around in the basement. Obviously nobody here can know this. I didn't consider it important and also, as experience shows, people tend not to read the entire post.

b44345e59a0444ea92cae5c5a32e97d2.jpg

There are two reasons why I'm not interested:

- I'm kind of over it. I know about the huge deviation especially zoom lenses have. So I don't want to waste my time. I trust that I'd discover a truly faulty lens without photographing brick walls or charts. Anything else just drives me mad, thinking I might have a bad copy. It was also this forum here which tought me to better go out and take pictures. (Jerry as Mod, if he hadn't blocked me, might have been able to check how long I'm member of this forum. It must be well over 10 years)

- seriously - all I wanted was, to find out if the issue is a general one. This is what forums are about, so manufacturers can't say any longer "whow, this is the first time one ever had this problem". I imagined simple yes or no answers.
I switched to Fuji recently after years of Canon D-SLRs, crop and FF (EOS 6D on sale right now). I think the Fuji 18-55 is comparable in quality to the Canon 24-105 f4 L, but even with much worse lenses like the EF-S 17-85mm 4.0–5.6 IS USM I have never seen anything close to this Fuji "bokeh". At no aperture, no distance and at no shooting situation.

I have to confess I under estimated the people's motivation to discuss possible capturing issues with my example picture. It was simply not meant for that. At a certain point of this thread I started looking for better examples, but at each picture I found many potential for discussions.
Now I think this thread is at a stage where posting further pictures wouldn't make much sense. My bad maybe. Maybe some are just too sensitive. Who knows.

Thanks for your offer anyway ;-)

reach
Bokeh on Fuji's 18-55 (and 55-200, just to warn you) is not good. It's nervous and is of "onion ring" type. In some situatios bokeh is acceptable and in others it's annoying. I also have this lens and your photo is "normal" for this lens, unfortunately. In my opinion, 18-55 and 55-200 lenses are overrated. Yes, they are sharp and contrasty, well corrected for optical abberations but with a cost in bokeh department. For example, I'd rate Nikon's kit lens (18-55 or older 18-70) better than Fuji's. Not so sharp but bokeh is better.
I totally agree with you and I too had the Fuji 18-55. I have no idea who would buy that lens specifically for great bokeh results :-) don't get me wrong, if there is absolutely nothing or very little distraction on the background the 18-55 will look beautiful clean results but the example the OP provided originally is just terrible and way too many variables to pin point the "problem".

Wind or air is invisible, we can't see it, and who knows what was happening when the OP took that photo. Maybe there was a small current of air passing thru that part of the photo, plus there the combination of light and the bokeh when the OP took the shot at 55mm. Who knows.

To the OP, even if you lost interest why not just take your time and take photos of more simple things, maybe in different light situations and that same aperture? Like I said originally I'm no landscape expert and I'm ignorant and I would have never thought of blowing up such image at that proportion to see what's inside all those nasty looking bushes, I mean what for? I would just focus on the pretty flowers :-)

Maybe you do have a bad lens but I get the feeling that example provided is not a good one to say that the lens is bad. You say that you are an expert so I'm not going to argue with you there but why not take photos of simpler things or non moving objects to start?

My very first brand new Fuji 18-55 was INDEED bad. The dumb assembly technicians must have inserted either the wires or the OIS switch backwards because when I would switch the OIS button to ON my images would come out blurry and when I switched it to OFF my images would be perfectly fine and sharp. I exchanged the lens at the store and got a new one and that lens was perfect, so you never know.

Good luck and please let us know what you or Fuji did find in the end because we are very curious now :-)
Fuji's top of the range lenses are primes - try 16 1.4, 23 1.4, 35 1.4, 56 1.2, 90 2.0 and you will get everything perfect - sharpness & bokeh.
It’s true that the 18-55 isn’t known for bokeh but I’m sorry, the picture is definitely without a doubt NOT “normal” for that lens. Maybe you had a bad copy.
 
I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions if you're truly interested.

Bob
Thanks for your generous offer Bob!

As Jerry says - I'm indeed not truly interested. But not because of why Jerry thinks ;-)

I have tested lenses since years. See below one of the charts I used back then, now laying around in the basement. Obviously nobody here can know this. I didn't consider it important and also, as experience shows, people tend not to read the entire post.

b44345e59a0444ea92cae5c5a32e97d2.jpg

There are two reasons why I'm not interested:

- I'm kind of over it. I know about the huge deviation especially zoom lenses have. So I don't want to waste my time. I trust that I'd discover a truly faulty lens without photographing brick walls or charts. Anything else just drives me mad, thinking I might have a bad copy. It was also this forum here which tought me to better go out and take pictures. (Jerry as Mod, if he hadn't blocked me, might have been able to check how long I'm member of this forum. It must be well over 10 years)

- seriously - all I wanted was, to find out if the issue is a general one. This is what forums are about, so manufacturers can't say any longer "whow, this is the first time one ever had this problem". I imagined simple yes or no answers.
I switched to Fuji recently after years of Canon D-SLRs, crop and FF (EOS 6D on sale right now). I think the Fuji 18-55 is comparable in quality to the Canon 24-105 f4 L, but even with much worse lenses like the EF-S 17-85mm 4.0–5.6 IS USM I have never seen anything close to this Fuji "bokeh". At no aperture, no distance and at no shooting situation.

I have to confess I under estimated the people's motivation to discuss possible capturing issues with my example picture. It was simply not meant for that. At a certain point of this thread I started looking for better examples, but at each picture I found many potential for discussions.
Now I think this thread is at a stage where posting further pictures wouldn't make much sense. My bad maybe. Maybe some are just too sensitive. Who knows.

Thanks for your offer anyway ;-)

reach
Bokeh on Fuji's 18-55 (and 55-200, just to warn you) is not good. It's nervous and is of "onion ring" type. In some situatios bokeh is acceptable and in others it's annoying. I also have this lens and your photo is "normal" for this lens, unfortunately. In my opinion, 18-55 and 55-200 lenses are overrated. Yes, they are sharp and contrasty, well corrected for optical abberations but with a cost in bokeh department. For example, I'd rate Nikon's kit lens (18-55 or older 18-70) better than Fuji's. Not so sharp but bokeh is better.

Fuji's top of the range lenses are primes - try 16 1.4, 23 1.4, 35 1.4, 56 1.2, 90 2.0 and you will get everything perfect - sharpness & bokeh.
No one that understands photography buys f4 or variable aperture zoom lenses for their oof rendering. A good example was the Canon 70-200f4LIS which I owned and shot with extensively. The lens had a very unpleasant oof rendering under certain circumstances but was regarded as being sharp as a tack. It also was soft at it's minimum focus distance but those were tradeoffs the designers chose to make.

Lens designers have to balance a multitude of factors when designing zoom lenses and there will always be tradeoffs.

Bob

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